20 January 2019

The most repeated are the ones getting down graded

The best indicator to spot which routes and boulders are too soft for it's grade is to use statistics, i.e. the number of repeats and personal records. Here is a list of the most repated and almost all are actually subject of being down graded but the classical Action Directe which was put up as a 8c+/9a. It should be mentioned that the routes might be 9a now or in the future because of broken holds. 37 Era Vella 36 Estado Critico 26 Underground 25 Action Directe 20 La Fabela pa la Enmienda confirmed 19 Escltamasters 19 A Muerte 19 Seleccio Natural 17 La Cabane au Canada In practice, you can search the 8a data base for any hard core grade and you will find that almost all the most repeated are the ones also being subject for a down grade. Climbers are, logically, like water finding the easiest way to set a personal best :)
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