16 August 2018

Japan totally superior in Lead and Bouldering in Moscow

The medal table for Lead and Bouldering from the Youth World Championship in Moscow says it all; Japan 5 - 1 - 6 Slovenia 1 - 3 - 1 France 1 - 2 - 2 USA 2 - 0 - 0 Complete medal table including Speed. Also last year the Japanese juniors dominated and the big question is what they are doing differently? Based on what their senior coaches, who are almost as successful, as well as talking to some of the best youngsters, we know that Japan training sticks out with minimum structured and complementary physical training. Basically, their focus is mainly just challenging, with a great team spirit, boulders and routes in different gyms around Tokyo. Structured and complimentary physical training is, beside yoga and stretching etc, almost non-existing. Instead, they focus on doing boulders in a group meaning they concentrate on technical and tactical training. Noteworthy is that this was the same success recipe that Adam Ondra used when he was a teenager. It should be noted that runner-up when it comes to medals is Slovenia with just two million inhabitants. They are known for their structured training so obviously there are different possibilities for success.
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