15 November 2011

Extend your repertoire

Training/Jens: The fastest way to improve is normally just to spend a few hours doing unfamiliar moves. i.e. extend your repertoire. It is natural that you start your climbing career by developing your natural talent, establishing your repertoire. Your move repertoire is of course also based on what type of rock or gym you are spending most time.

Climbers with the most limited repertoire are often indoor climbers who do comfortable moves on straightforward routes. With gym season at its peak, here are some examples based on using all holds:

1. High step: Feet as high as possible and push to side/up until you sit.
2. Crossover: Feet high, reach to side and pro long several moves.
3. Match: Switch hands on every hold.
4. No hands rest: Experiment as you do outdoors.
5. Smear: Boulder only on micro foot steps.

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