22 June 2018

As much static as possible on dynamic moves

If you are up for a long dynamic move and the hold you are landing on is a jug. It is pretty simple. Just go as dynamic as possible. If you on the other hand, is going very long for a smaller hold, it is very important that the dyno is done as static as possible. The reason for this is that once you are going dynamic, you have almost lost all contact with the lower hand. Without and contact strength on the lower hand, it is less likely that you will control the upper hand. In pother words, doing a long move to a not so good hold, it is about being brave and doing the move as static as possible which could mean you are not actually getting the height for it. It is also about, thinking about your power in the lower hand, meaning NOT focusing on the upper hold. This is pretty advance as your eyes are looking at the hold and fingers which should not, power wise, be in focus. As a matter of a fact, the best way to practice this is that your partner say something like - Lower hand static strength, just when you are about to execute. Otherwise, your reptile brain is most likely to kick in and you launch yourself like a rocket to the next hold.
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