NEWS

Jule Wurm wins Hueco Rock Rodeo

Jule Wurm had an amazing day winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing seven 7C and harder, out of which, four flashes including The Hand 7C+. The German, who won one WC last year, did also an impressive second go ascent of The Flame 8A. WOW It seems you are in the best shape of your life? Please tell us something from the great comp and are you doing all the Boulder WC's in 2014? Yeah, climbing feels pretty good at the moment! I trained a lot during the past months and it's nice to see that it pays off on rocks now! The Rodeo was so much fun. It was nice to hang out with the other girls and trying hard boulders together! I'm going to do all the Bouldering Worldcups this year! I took one semester off from University so I'll have plenty of time till october.

A File with a Style
15 February 2014

A File with a Style

Clemens Arnt has through, A File with a Style, produced some nice wooden files that will reduce flappers and splits. Your skin is something that has to be taking care of well and some kind of file is mandatory for every hard core climber. A well cared skin will actually make you climb more and harder and this is actually the best file I have tested. It is a very nice feeling to have a wooden file in your hand instead of a plastic one, as you are going into the somewhat obsessed meditation phase looking and taking care of your fingers.

8B+ FA by Paul Robinson in Hueco Tanks

Paul Robinson has made the FA of The Gallows 8B+ in Huecos Tanks and in total he has done 72 boulders 8B+ and 8C out of which 14 FAs. Paul has been one of the leading boulderers for six years and worth mentioning is also his 123 8B's. "The Gallows is an amazing low start to the machinist 8B in Hueco Tanks. The climb is a 20 move roof to a hard and technical top out 12 move vertical face! It climbed like a route and you have to get this incredible knee bar in the middle of the roof section!

Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnug 8b/+ E9/10

Jacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ E9/10 at Bürser Platte, Voralberg, in Austria. Beat put it up as a sport route in 1997 but later decided to chop the bolts and in 2009, beeing 50, he made the first trad ascent. Jacopo, who previously has done two 9a's, worked the route some 15 times including some four lead attempts. So what can you say about the difficulty? It's hard to relate it to a sport routes, it's something completely different, it's more mental. The climb is really technical and you can slip everywhere, which is not easy to assume as the protections are often not good and should not fall. Sure, I know grades are important for the media but I don't care about them anymore. E-grades are mainly used in UK for trad climbing and it measures (speculates) the overall difficulty, including the danger, how hard it is to onsight it. There exist some E11 that also have gotten an 8c+ grade. In other words, for some reason, the trad routes have for some reason a harder, deflated, grading scale compared to bolted routes. So stay assure that Prinzip Hoffnug should not be compared in difficulty to a modern 8b/+ sport route.

9a FA by Ondra again
14 February 2014

9a FA by Ondra again

Adam Ondra has put up Todos los Santos, 9a in Roc Galliner and in total he has now done 90 routes 9a and harder out of which 33 FA. The runner ups, Sharma, Ramonet and Andrada, have done like like one third. "Amazing line to the left Ni Blog Ni Facebook. Slightly overhanging face on crimps. Unique place totally worth the hike. 3 goes. Bolted by David Gambus." (c) Vojtech Vrzba

Jule Wurm had done two 8A's and Barefoot on sacred ground 8A+ in Hueco Tanks. The German has been a succesful competition climber for ten years, first in Lead as a junior and later in bouldering. In 2009, she got the silver in the Euro Championship and the last years she has stood six times at the podium including once at the top in 2013.

The most extreme ropes
12 February 2014

The most extreme ropes

During the last few years, we have seen a dramatic development of making thinner and lighter ropes. In theory, the most extreme ropes are just like 10 grams lighter per meter compared to the average 10 mm but in percentage it is like 15 %. In practice, however, the rope drag 30 m up on your onsight, differs normally much more than 15 % weight difference. 8.6 mm, 51 grams, Edelrid Corbie, 30 - 80 m 8.7 mm, 51 grams, Mammut Serenity, 30 - 80 m 8.9 mm, 52 grams, Edelrid Swift, 30 - 80 m 8.9 mm, 52 grams, Tendon Master, 50 - 80 m 9.1 mm, 52 grams, Beal Joker, 50 - 200 m It should also be noted that a brand new 10 mm rope creates less rope drag compared to a worn out extreme rope and that the greatest impact to avoid rope drag is using long slings. The picture shows the Mammut Serenity. Is there any rope that should make the list?

Safer handling of the Grigri

Based on 1 100+ unique votes we can see that more climbers have started to use the feeding out rope technique which Petzl suggested three years ago. Originally Petzl suggested a technique that almost nobody did use. Later Petzl changed their recommendation to a technique presented by 8a which still is equally used. The good thing is that it seems all the bad Grigri accidents have more or less disappeared. Climb safe! 37 % Exactly as in the picture 37 % Fingers around the rope and the whole Grigri 26 % Thumb on the brake, no rope safety

The Story... 8C by Giuliano Cameroni (16)

Giuliano Cameroni has done Dave Graham's The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano from 2005 which might be the most known boulder in the world. The name was a statement to the previous grade inflation which actually made the it stop. It is a sit start to The Dagger 8B (+) making it to a great spectacular roof boulder. "Yes! Unbelievable! This problem is one of the most complete I have ever seen. In the morning, the end was completely wet, but luckily in the afternoon it was almost dry. 3rd go today and falling down at the end on the first and the second try cause I slipped with the hand and the hook. but the battle against this boulder is not finish, on the other side there is Dreamtime!" Giuliano, 16, is the youngest to have done an 8C. Previously Adam was the youngest beeing 17.