NEWS

Late Christmas Gifts
21 December 2016

Late Christmas Gifts

Climbers-Fingers have some late funny climbing Christmas gifts for you: Puzzle with 1 000 brikcs, stickers and the calendar. "2pcs of our English calendar A3 - only 30โ‚ฌ including shipping to all over the world. Delivery to Europe in 3 to 5 working days."

Orangutanรญ trรฉning - pokraฤovanie
"Climb like an orangutan and improve your endurance", v slovenskej verzii "Lez ako orangutan a zlepลกi si tak vytrvalosลฅ", je jednรฝm z najhodnotnejลกรญch ฤlรกnkov za rok 2016 ฤo sa tรฝka odozvy v komentรกroch, cez emaily, na Facebooku a dodatoฤnรฝch otรกzok. Dokonca sa na jeho adresu pozitรญvne vyjadrili aj niektorรญ trรฉneri. Zopรกr lezcov sa takisto vyjadrilo, ลพe zmenu v technike pocรญtili uลพ po niekoฤพkรฝch trรฉningoch a tento ลกtรฝl sa rรฝchlo ujal aj v ich okolรญ. Tu je niekoฤพko ฤalลกรญch odpovedรญ a nรกpadov. Podstata celรฉho cviฤenia ลกtรฝlom orangutana je, aby bol lezec pri lezenรญ uvoฤพnenejลกรญ, tรฝm pรกdom pouลพรญval menลกie percento svalovรฝch vlรกkien, ฤo postupne zlepลกuje obeh krvi v tele a tรฝm aj lezeckรบ vytrvalosลฅ. Veฤพa lezcov mรก problรฉm s preลฅaลพovanรญm chytov, ฤo znamenรก, ลพe pouลพรญvajรบ viacej sily ako je potrebnรฉ na udrลพanie chytu. To zรกroveลˆ spรดsobuje, ลพe svaly sa nestihnรบ dostatoฤne uvoฤพniลฅ pri pohybu z chytu do chytu. Pri trรฉningu tejto techniky postupne len s jednou rukou sa ฤlovek automaticky nauฤรญ vypustiลฅ a uvoฤพniลฅ svaly v predlaktรญ pri nasledujรบcom pohybe, keฤลพe ruka bude chvรญฤพku oddychovaลฅ pred dochytenรญm ฤalลกieho chytu. Nezaberie veฤพa ฤasu neลพ si pri trรฉningu ฤlovek uvedomรญ, ลพe automaticky vypรบลกลฅa spodnรบ ruku hneฤ po dochytenรญ alebo zniลพuje kontaktnรบ silu na minimum. Tรฝm, ลพe sa sรบstredรญลก na pustenie a uvoฤพnenie budeลก maลฅ zรกroveลˆ vรฝhodu mikro-sklepania pri nasledujรบcom pohybe, priฤom sa stรกle mรดลพe jednaลฅ o sรฉriu ลฅaลพkรฝch krokov. Zaujรญmavรฉ je, ลพe keฤ sa pozrieme na lezcov Svetovรฉho pohรกra, ich ลกtรฝl je podobnรฝ - vรคฤลกinou zamknรบลฅ na chyte a spraviลฅ pohyb tak kontrolovane, ako sa len dรก, aby pri ลˆom mohli na malรบ chvรญฤพku sklepaลฅ. Tento ลกtรฝl mรก vรฝhodu aj v tom, ลพe namiesto polo-dynamickรฉho dochytenia chytu, pri ktorom je spotrebovanรฉ veฤพkรฉ mnoลพstvo sily, je dochytenie nasledujรบceho chytu plynulรฉ a statickรฉ.

Alex Puccio wins again and does an 8B in Hueco
Alex Puccio has done her 15th 8B, Tierre De Sienne in Hueco Tanks. The day before she won her sixth comp in a row, Birmingham Alabama, since her spinal fusion five months ago. (c) Kim Puccio "Left Hueco to do a competition this weekend, won the comp, got back late last night and now today I got another gift! felt good to send! getting stronger!!! :)" In February, the runner-up in the World Championsship 2014, plans to do the US Nationals but she is not sure if she will do the World Cup 2016. Here are her thoughts regarding the Olympics. "The Olympics is good for our sport in a whole I believe. It will bring more money and attention to climbing and I think it will help even inspiring professional outdoor climbers as well. I guess we will see! I personally will probably try out, whatever that is, to be be selected. Even tho I don't really agree or like the purposed format for the Olympics it would be really cool to say you competed in it. Again, we will see!

Denguin a Shin vyhrali prvรฝ oficiรกlny Svetovรฝ pohรกr v ฤพadovom lezenรญ 2016
UIAA vydalo celรฝ sumรกr udalostรญ prvรฉho Svetovรฉho pohรกra v ฤพadovom lezenรญ 2016, ktorรฝ sa konal v americkom Durangu. (c) Blake Ward/UIAA Vรฝsledky: 1. Alexey Dengin (RUS) - Woonseon Shin (KOR) 2. Nikolai Kuzovlev (RUS) - Angelika Rainer (ITA) 3. Maxim Tomilov (RUS) - Eimir McSwiggan (IRE)

9a+ FA by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi has done the FA of Ultimatum in Arco, which is the connection of three already hard routes in Massone. Stefano, with three 9a+'s done during the last year, is second in the 8a.nu route ranking game. "Last connection in Massone, connects The first boulder of Underground, Reini's Vibes, downclimb some moves of Pietra Murata, the crack boulder of L'ultima Pietra with a crazy finger lock, and the last tiny crimps of Stonehenge. More than 100 moves. Not a hard 9a+ due to good rests between the hard sections".

8b OS by Laura Rogora (15) again
Laura Rogora has onsighted her fourth 8b, Bella Lu in Collepardo. On the same day she also made the FA of Super crack 8c. The 15-year-old is #1 in the 8a female ranking game and when it comes to onsights, she is #7 among the guys. What goes through your mind while onsighting? I do not know. When I feel tired I try to climb speedly without thinking about what I am doing because I only want to reach the next hold. In the last two years, she has won the Italian Championship in both Bouldering and Lead categories and the amazing thing is that she trains in a not so big bouldering gym.

Andrej Capko is our new editor for Slovakia meaning that we now have country specific editors and translators for six countries, which is a record high: Spain, Italy, France, Sweden, Poland and Slovakia. Most visitors come from USA and Germany and if you would like to be able to report local news or translate to any language just send an email to [email protected] and we will upgrade your account.

8A+ FA by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber has done the FA of Schluck du Bruder sit 8A+ in Felbertal. In total she has now done 50 Boulders graded 8A and harder. "Props to Norbert Grugger for spotting this line during our last session. Also a big shoutout to my dad (8a note: also an 8A boulderer) who drove to the bloc 2 days ago for brushing the snow away <3. Perfect conditions today, first go after the warmup." There is just a handful female who have done an 8A+ FA. The 21-year-old Austrian is also a successful competition climber and in the 8A ranking game, she is #3.

Andrej Capko je nรกลก novรฝ editor pre slovenskรบ verziu 8a.nu (ฤaute!). Zatiaฤพ teda mรกme editorov a prekladateฤพov zo ลกiestich krajรญn: ล panielsko, Taliansko, Francรบzsko, ล vรฉdsko, Poฤพsko a Slovensko. To je v doterajลกej histรณrii 8a.nu najviac! Najvรคฤลกรญ poฤet nรกvลกtevnรญkov ja vลกak z USA a Nemecka. Ak by si mal zรกujem reportovaลฅ o lokรกlnych novinkรกch a prekladaลฅ doterajลกie do svojho jazyka, staฤรญ poslaลฅ mail na [email protected] a mรดลพeme ti upgradenรบลฅ รบฤet.

17 December 2016

8C by Jimmy Webb

James Webb has done Nalle Hukkataival's Kintsugi, an 8C boulder in Red Rocks, Nevada. As he comments on his Instagram account: "Feels so damn good to do this Boulder. Hands down one of the best lines you will see anywhere". James is known for being the best flash boulder in the world with 13 8B's and he is also #1 in the 8a boulder ranking game.