Clément Lechaptois has had a great month doing two 8B+'s in Colorado and his second 8C, Foundations Edge in Fionnay which was opened by Dave Graham in 2013. "It's a huge overhang of perfect granite. The hard part consists of 10 intense movements on edges and delicate feet deplacements. I started to try FE last fall and thought I was close to do it because I was able to do the hands moves pretty well but it was actually the feet moves that gave me the more troubles. I had a busy year at university so I couldn't come back there at that time. Just coming back in pretty good shape from Colorado, I needed two more sessions to climb this incredible boulder. Respect to Dave for the FA."

It has been confirmed by an email from IFSC to the federations that Japan has selected Kai Harada and Miho Nonaka to take part in Tokyo 2020.

Martin Urrutia skips 8c+ and does his first 9a, Psikoterapia in Valdegobia. This year the 19-year-old Spaniard got his first senior podium. "The route is in a place where I usually climb frequently. It is a place where I do well. I like that stile so I decided that it would be a nice challenge because it has only three previous ascents. I started trying the route at the beginning of September, but I broke an edge of the route and I was not able to climb regularly afterwards. I had to wait until it was fixed. Finally I have been practicing and trying it for 2 months and 16 attempts. I have enjoyed the route a lot. I was progressing in each attempt and it felt very well psychologically."

Alberto Gines Lopez was the only one topping out the semi route and Janja Garnbret got highest among the female. Japan got another great result with four female making the final and six male in the Top-13. USA got two male to the semi which was their best result this year. No french in the final and thei best male was #33. Also Austria struggles with their best result #17. It should be mentioned that especially among the male, most of the best Europeans were missing. Complete results

Hiroto Shimizu and Jain Kim did win the last stage of the Lead World Cup taking place in Inzai, Japan. Interestingly, this was just the second appearance for Shimizu in the Lead WC in 2019. In his first event, he was #2 and overall this made him #6. (c) Eddie Fowke Among the women, Jain Kim got her first victory in 2019 ahead of Janja Garnbret who has had her worst Lead WC season since she entered the scene, five years ago. 1. Hiroto Shimizu JPN 38+ : Jain Kim KOR Top 2. Alberto Gines Lopez 36+ : Janja Garnbret SLO 39+ 3. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 32+ : Chaehyon Seo KOR 37+ It should be mentioned that the route setting was great with good separation in all rounds.

1. Chaehyon Seo (15) KOR 480 - Adam Ondra CZE 300 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 352 - Alberto Gines Lopes ESP 256 3. Natsuki Tanii JPN 243 - Sean McColl CAN 206 4. Lucka Rakovec SLO 226 - Kai Harada JPN 195 5. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 224 - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 190 6. Ai Mori JPN 220 - Hiroto Shimuzi JPN 180 7. YueTong Zhang CHI 207 - Kokoro Fujii JPN 165 8. Jain Kim KOR 206 - Alexander Megos GER 165 15-year-old, Chaehyon Seo is the big sensational winner of the Women Lead WC in 2019. Her stats is just amazing 2 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 3, making her one of the most superior winners ever. Janja Garnbret was runner up but her stats was her worst in Lead since she started in the Lead WC, being 15-years-old. Noteworthy is also three female from Japan in the Top-6. Among the male, Adam Ondra got one more overall title although just participating in three events, which he all won. As a matter of a fact, most of the best did just participate in 3 - 5 events. The big male sensation in 2016, is Alberto Gines Lopez who just got better during the season, having competed in 28 IFSC events including being #3 in the Youth World Championship. Japan got three in the Top-7 and got their best season ever.

Andrea Cartas has done her second 8c+, at age 37, by doing La Rubia in Villanueva del Rosario. (c) Javi Pec How was the process taking it down? It was a long process; two springs and this autumn one month. The problem has been that I live 500km from the crag and I have to work and make short trips to try it. So finally in one month I really gave a few good tries. That was hard for the mind. I was really close past May but the heat came. Now, the first day of good conditions, the send happens! What was the key to send it? The perfect day, well-rested and free on my mind not about having to send, just I wanted a lot to climbing in good conditions. What is next? Just enjoy other cool lines at the crag, travel and climbing on sight and maybe try harder soon ;-)

Max Bertone, little brother to Oriane, has done Chykungunya in Ouaki giving it a personal 8c grade, Video. The last week the 12-year-old has also done two 8A's. "I agree with Oriane. Harder than Pari and for sure the hardest route I have done. Maybe I have the advantage to be short and to have little hands. This explain the fact that I felt it harder than 8b+... but not enough to be 8c+, as suggested in the topo."

With many of the best missing, especially among the males, Japan got five males and four females in the Top-8 in the qualification. The only one topping out both male routes was Fedir Samoilov. In the women category, we saw five double tops. Complete results