Paige Claassen has done four 9a's and several 8c+' meaning she is one of the Top-10 female climbers. "In June of 2022, she added 'Mom' to her list of titles, and considers motherhood her most difficult and rewarding role to date."

Adrian Houbron, who last year did two 8c+', has repeated Tony Lamiche's Condé de choc (9a) in Entraygues.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9a?
I discovered Entraygues only last year and I had in mind to try San ku kai (8c+), the king line of the crag. After several sessions on the route, I finally did it and I choose to try La moustache qui fâche (9a+) but to be honest, it was way too hard for me! At the same time, I tried the easier start of Deltaplane man direct (8c+) (start in the classic 7c and finish in the final bow shared with Delataplane Man and Condé de Choc). After two sessions, I managed to link up this combi and I told myself that I had nothing to lose by trying the moves at the bottom of Condé. I quickly managed to do the famous jump on the crimp, but a move just below was a big problem for me to go into a right finger jam. The end of the season was approaching and I still hadn't found a solution for this move, so I left Entraygues with only one idea in mind: come back stronger next year to do it!

This year, we came to Entraygues much earlier. From the first session, I found the sensations in the jump, and I immediately found a solution for the movement which caused me problems! During the second session, I focused on the moves of the second part of the route, but I felt much less good than last year. And to add some spice, the first hold of the route was starting to get wet, so we decided to take a day off, hoping that the hold would not be too wet. I came back a day later, with the knife between the teeth, the hold was not quite dry but we found a way to dry it just before a run. I put in a first try, I managed to catch the finger jam but I fell at the jump, fingers a little cold. I rested for 10 minutes, then I put a run again before I get too cold, I got to the jump again but with much warmer fingers and much more excitement, and I did the jump!

I did the less hard moves to get to the rest, where I stayed for almost 3 minutes, and I go back to the top section that I was a bit more apprehensive about. I passed the top crux and carried by the encouragements of Lilian and Justin, I made the last moves to reach the saving jug, it was an explosion of joy, then I make the final mantle and I clip the chain, without really realising what had just happened.

Cody Roth, who one month ago did the FA of Flipping the Bird (9a), at Arco's Grottosauro, has reported on Insta that he has bolted and sent a new direct finish to it, which he thinks could be a little harder but he is reluctant to up the grade. (c) Francesco Zerbi

"A week after freeing Flipping the Bird, I went back and added a further eight bolts which created an independent finish for this climb. Initially I'd doubted that there was enough there, which is why I went into the neighbouring 8c. Once I completed Flipping the Bird, I was able to zoom out again and I realized there probably was enough there for a direct finish and I couldn't help feeling like I'd taken the easy way out. I didn't expect to climb it as quickly as I did, and claiming another 9a and getting attention for it feels a bit like cheating in this case, which is why I haven't made a big deal out of it; but, if it being known means others might climb it, I'm happy!

I managed to get it done on the evening of May 3rd after work, and just two days before flying to the US for a family visit and work conference, which I just came back from. I think this direct version could be a touch harder, but I'm not entirely sure and I don't feel any pressure to put a plus on it. With both of these climbs I was able to approach them in such an efficient, slow-build way which makes it hard to keep perspective. On top of that, I worked on them alone which gives great feeling of self-reliance, but not such a great feeling of awareness and certainty."

The US women have had a great start to the Boulder World Cup. After three events, Brooke Raboutou and Natalia Grossman, are in pole position and 15-year-old, Anastasia Sanders is ranked #8. The other solid performers thus far are Japan, with four women Top-15, followed by France, with three. Looking back to last year, these three countries were also the strongest in the women's circuit. Janja Garnbret is slated to compete in the upcoming WC in Prague , which will add to the excitement. She missed the first three due to a foot injury. Raboutou and Sanders are not registered for Prague, but they're scheduled to compete the following weekend in Brixen.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta with a picture by Vladek Zumr that she has done Unendliche Geschichte 2 (8A) in Magic Wood. Later she also did Sofa Surfer (8A+).

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
Both were the only dry things in the forest at the time so it was logical to try them! I briefly tried SS last year and decided to prioritize other boulders instead, it was cool to come back and send it quickly! UG2 was extremely challenging for me because of the powerful start move so it's been really rewarding to see progress in that style.

How long will you stay in the area and what's next?
Maybe another week or so. Next, I’ll go home - ready for a break! It’s been a very busy and intense spring for me with lots of climbing and projecting.

Are you planning on going to work full-time after your Doctor's exam?

I actually have 2 jobs [currently]! I've been working part-time at 2 hospitals when I'm home. It's very flexible and I can create my own schedule, which has been ideal. Usually, I work on rest days 😉 What are your two jobs?
I am an occupational therapist (what I have my degree in) and I work in inpatient rehabilitation and neurological rehabilitation. My schedule varies every week depending on my training and travelling but I get in as often as I can.

As it stands, the 28-year-old is a contender for having the All-Time High best Combined route and boulder tick list. In just the last year, she has done around 35 boulders 8A to 8B+. In previous years, she was more focused on routes having completed a dozen routes 8c+ and harder. Michaela was #22 in her Boulder World Cup debut in 2010 at age 15 and the next year she was #18 in a Lead World Cup. From there, she put competitions to the side, and chose to focus on rock and University. Michaela did her first 8c and 8c+ at age 21. Interview from last year.

Francesco Berardino, who previously has done three 8B+ and The Story of Two Worlds (8C), reports on Insta that he has sent Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Rainer Eder

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 12 with my dad and since then I’ve been extremely passionate about this fantastic world. 3 years ago I saw the video of Shawn[Raboutou] doing Off the Wagon and from there, it was love at first sight. I also wanted to be able to climb the same boulders as in the Mellow YouTube channel. The next day I went to Val Bavona with my dad to try it, even though I knew it was beyond my level. But that was a great starting point because I soon started doing my first 8A’s and 8B’s in Magic Wood. The real turning point happened last year when I met Giuliano Cameroni, who later became a great friend. He gave me amazing advices on how to train my fingers. Since then my climbing fully evolved and I started listening to my body and started seeing and hearing things that I couldn’t perceive before. My vision of what’s possible improved a lot and I started trying boulders with movements at the limit of what’s possible. We are talking about 9A to 9B boulders.

I started trying one of these futuristic lines in Cresciano, right next to the famous Dreamtime. It’s a fantastic line, perhaps the most beautiful I’ve seen so far. It could be 9A stand and 9B sit. The key for me is to try extremely difficult lines that seem impossible at first but after a lot of tries, they become realistic projects. This was the main advice from Giuliano: the fastest way to improve in outdoor climbing is to try moves above our limit on small holds. With specific finger training, I feel like I will be able to do every move that’s possible for my body.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the stand three years ago and was very close to sending it several times, then in February this year I decided to remove the wagon and start trying from below and in 3 months [15 sessions more or less] I managed to send it.

What does a normal climbing/training week look like?
Lately, when I’m at home I’m training every day to reach my maximum potential. When I go out to climb the best workout for me in a top week would be; to try very hard projects and then go back to try 8C\8C+ and feel the best grips let’s say.

William Bosi has done the first repeat of Aidan Robert’s Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in Ogwen valley, and here is the video. ”Really happy to send this king line! I think my beta is easier than Aidan's so I think 8C is fair.

During the last 12 months, Will has done two 9A’s, two 8C+’ and eighth 8C’s and his 8a annual score is 12 403, which is the highest ever achieved. However, in the All time-high list, Bosi is #5 after Woods, Webb, Ondra and Cameroni.

Can you tell us more about the ascents, the new beta and the number of sessions needed?
It took three sessions total counting my first day where I did the stand a couple of years ago. I had my second session on Friday and dropped the last move a couple of times before deciding to stop and return yesterday.

I used the starting heel hook for the first two moves rather than just the first which meant I was able to avoid the shoulder move being as savage.