NEWS

Sam Weir sends Foundations Edge (8C)
Sam Weir reports on Insta that he has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Bas-Valais. Here is the video.The 32-year-old started climbing in 2012 and within a year he did his first 8A. In total, he has now sent seven 8Cโ€™s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked the boulder a lot in 2021 and got really close to doing it but then winter came and was always mentally tired for the last hard move. Must have fallen there 20 times... In 2022 my life got busy with work and moving and I lost motivation for a while only climbing outside a handful times but incorporated some light weight lifting to my normal training (hangboarding and board climbing). The training worked and I managed to send the boulder third try this year first session back. It was really cool to see that year of just basic training paid off. It has been a good 2023 so far. What's next? I am trying Fuck the System 8c+ and would like to do Gioia 8C+ without the kneebar. 2 big goals should keep me busy for a while:)

Super Pit (9a) FA'ed by Silvio Reffo
Silvio Reffo, who has already ticked 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Super Pit (9a) in Covolo.

"I bolted this route last autumn, but with the arrival of winter it was too cold to climb to in Covolo. Last month after climbing Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+), I went back to try Super Pit. It is a route of 40 movements of power endurance, in fact, in the last few weeks I was falling on the last hold 5-6 times. Itโ€™s amazing how this crag still offers many extreme routes. I still have several projects from 9a to 9b that I would like to try in the next season."

 Eva Hammelmรผller ticks ร–tztal's Moria (8c)
Eva Hammelmรผller, who last year won a Euro Boulder Cup and this year has sent two 8c+โ€™, has done Moria (8c) in ร–tztal. (c) Felix Mast

What's the lowdown on this route and your send?
The send of this technical as well as powerful route was very unexpected! After checking out the moves and trying to dry two holds, I just gave it a try, everything worked out perfectly, and I found myself on top of the route! As there are two other classic routes next to Moria, this line doesnโ€™t get too much attention, yet (if you like tiny holds and some weird moves). It is incredible to climb!

Whatโ€™s coming up next?
Right now, I am preparing for the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck and after that, it will be decided whether Iโ€™ll compete at the next WCs, too. Thus, I focus mainly on climbing indoors at the moment, but every two weeks or sometimes once a week, I like to go outside.

Crag Etiquette and  Access Awareness
The climbing community grows with each passing year and so too does our impact on the environment. Every spring, thousands of climbers take their first steps climbing outside, and sometimes guidance is needed in relation to crag etiquette, respecting landowners, human waste, etc. The Accessfund has also asked us to give some further info on Human waste If you have any crag- specific access info, please add it to the crag database.

Apocalipsis de la gioconda 9a (+) by Daniel Fuertes, 42
Daniel Fuertes, who has done 17 routes 8c to 9a+ the last year, has sent Apocalipsis de la gioconda (9a+) in , giving it a personal 9a grade. It was bolted by Josรฉ Luis Palao and then Jonathan Flor did the FA.

"Another super route by Primo, I don't know what the โ€œApocalyptoโ€ has [exactly] but I love this length!!! 50 meters!!! The F.A. is incredible. From Jonatan and his courageous proposal, back then it was much harder to do. Today, being able to try the second pitch in different ways, it feels a little easier, regardless of everything, it's an incredible line!!!!"

What about this climb gave you the most challenge?
What cost me the most was getting past the second block [boulder], since it suffered several breaks and forced me to change my "beta". The second pitch was controlled since I had done it on several routes! It's a fantastic route!

Japan and France lead the Boulder WC in the men's division
It's no secret that Japan has dominated the Boulder World Cup for many years. Last year, they took all three overall podiums and had eight men in the Top-20. After three events in 2023, they have eight among the Top-25, in spite of only being allowed to participate with eight athletes. In 2022, France had two men in the Top-25 ranking which can be compared with six in 2023 as well as Mejdi Schalck winning the only two events he participated in.

In the upcoming WC in Prague the next weekend, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos will make their first appearances in 2023. Also, Gabri Moroni, who has not done any World Cups since 2018, when he won one event, is also registered to compete.

 Thibault Lair sends Cosi se Arete (9a)
Thibault Lair has done Cosi se Arete (9a) in . The 30-year-old has previously done seven 9a's and last month he sent Papichulo (9a+).

What's this route like?
It is a 50 m route in the overhang [directly] above the swimming pool in Rodellar, just next to Detectives (9a) which I completed a short time ago. Very quickly I passed the hardest section of the route but I fell in the last 5 movements of the route about ten times, which I didn't really expect. Before there was a rest between the bouldering section and the last movements of resistance but a hold broke which means that there is no more rest and that the sequence of the last movements is really hard. I don't think the route has been repeated since. Really a king line with a super classy crux to climb and beautiful and varied holds. Thanks to Serge for equipping :)

Ryuichi Murai is a former competition climber who was #5 in a World Cup in 2018. The 28-year-old has done 20 boulders 8C or 8C+ and nowadays he considers himself a weekend warrior who always climbs alone. In February he did Sleepwalker (8C+) after projecting it for eight days, and he explained how he prepared for it.

Flip Flopera (8B) by Shauna Coxsey
Shauna Coxsey, who just over one year ago gave birth, reports with an Insta video that she has done Flip Flopera (8A+) at the The Bowderstone. This was done on her second session whilst Shauna was filming the top 50 7th Grade boulders in the UK which will be appearing on her YouTube shortly! (c) Ryan Balharry

UKC has the full-length interview with Shauna who in between 2014 and 2017 won 11 World Cups. In the same period, she also did three 8B's and one 8B+.

"It feels so good! I guess I never really knew what to expect from my climbing during my postpartum journey. I knew I really wanted to be pushing into the hard grades again, but I had no idea what my recovery from pregnancy and birth would be like, plus having double knee surgery when Frankie was 6 months old."

Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B
Andrew Nimmer, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed Massive Attack (8A+), Steppenwolf (8B), Voigas (8A+), Pura Vida (8A+) and Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood, out of which the last four were done in just the last four days.

"Steppenwolf was the number one problem I wanted to try on my trip to Magic Wood. My friend Matt and I watched countless beta videos and finally got to try it today after we waited 2 weeks for it to dry. He also sent today which helped bring the psych for the flash go.

For Voigas it looked like my style, huge moves on good holds so thought I had a solid chance at flashing. I felt like I was going to fall a few times but kept it together and tried hard for the final big move to the jug."


How have you been able to up your flash game?
I have been very close to flashing several 8A+ in the past, but have always messed up one small piece of beta and never put it together. I knew I was capable of flashing more hard boulders so this time around I am spending more time working out all the beta before jumping on. My friend Matt has also been with me trying the climbs before I do, and seeing someone do it in person really helps. Also, Moonboarding has helped a lot in preparation for this trip.

Your grade pyramid and especially the high proportion of flashes is unique. There should be plenty of room for doing 8C's?
I have been able to flash boulders relatively close to my max level for a while, and I think it comes from having a good ability to visualize climbs and how they will feel before I try them. I tend to climb with a lot of focus and tension, so that controlled style helps for flash attempts. Specifically to Magic Wood, the boulders are pretty straightforward and powerful without too many subtleties, which lends well to flashing. With the current breakthrough in flash grades, I think yes, maybe I can do more 8B+ and maybe 8C if I spend more time projecting.

What's the next plan?
I plan to try to flash a few more classics. I nearly flashed Dark Sakai (8B) today but I dabbed twice near the ending. Ended up sending it 2nd try. I also want to try Power of Now (8B+). A little less than 2 weeks remaining before I go home!

Have you done any stand-out and slightly more moderate problems in Magic Wood?
Blue Sky Of Mine (6A+), and Octopussy (8A).