29 August 2012

Which is the first 8B boulder?

The first 8B suggested boulder was Le Danse des Balrogs, Video in Branson by Fred Nicole in 1992. Later it was subject of being down graded as an easier start was found 40 cm to the left and now it is a confirmed 8A+ also with the elimination start. In 1992, Enigma was put up as an 8B by Philippe Le Denmat but it has been broken without being repeated. The year after Jacky Godoffe propsed 8B for Fatman in Fontainebleau which also became an 8A+ before Fred added a sitstart (96?) to it making it an 8B again, before it broke. Fred did in 1996 put up another two 8B's which now also are contendors for being the world's first 8B: Crown of Aragorn in Hueco Tanks and Master of Pogs in Balmaz (downgraded?). Another possibility is of course that the first 8B is actually an 8A+ that should and will be upgraded. Maybe John Gaskins or some hard grading Brits have some old 8A+ that can be the world's first 8B or actually any of Jim Holloway's 8A test pieces? Another alternative is that the first 8B in the world is Nicole's Radja in Branson from 1996 which is subject of being downgraded. The both boulders have defined starts before they join the same moves before the split. (c) Carsten Wittenberg
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