Where can you save money #2 - DMM Revolver

Ben Iseman who has worked many years in a climbing shop has made some an interesting comment to the - Where can you save money - article. Quickdraws: "Really light draws wear out faster, and a reduced rope bearing surface also wears out ropes faster." This means of course that if you plan to work, and probably fall several times on your project, you should pre-place your thickest and roundest carabiner there especially if it is in the beginning of the route. "I take this idea one step further and place a quickdraw with a DMM revolver if there is a crux bolt where I expect to take a lot of falls. Rope wear is further reduced and the falls are softer. Keep in mind that you will fall a greater distance due to the pulley effect so assess risk accordingly." The micro drawer impact on rope wear might actually be a possible explenation why climbers so often say that the same rope type often have different life span. Some rope manufacturer have also said that it happends that they can not explain to a complaining customer why he had to cut it after just one session with a brand new rope and quick draws.