16 November 2011

Training regime a la Schubert

Jakob Schubert who has made a record by winning seven straight WC's in 2011 gives some insight from his training. "If I train for Lead I start in the beginning of January with power training. I go 15 times over seven weeks in the fitness gym. Beside that I also climb and do a special training on crimps, slopers and pinches. In March I train maximum power, so mostly routes where I need a lot of breaks and bouldering. In May I begin the endurance training. Two days a week I climb twice a day (morning bouldering and evening endurance, 70 move boulders). Two days I only do routes and one day only bouldering. So five days a week, in total about 23 hours. Jakob tries to combine this with outdoors and three days ago, as an example, he bouldered in Zillertal where he did four 8A's and four 7C+'s, including two flashes. (c) Ferdinand EliAs Holzkencht
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Youth Worlds in Australia

90 - 1. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi 92 - 1. Mario Lechner - Johanna Ernst 94 - 1. Adam Ondra - Momoka Oda Complete results from YWC in Australia. We would a…

Jakob Schubert has done the second ascent of Dolby Surround, 8c+, which was set up by Kilian Fischhuber during the Zillertal Rock trip last year. "YES! SA but FA after a hold broke, before normal 8c+, now 8c+/9a in my opinion." jakob-schubert.at Last year the 18-year-old was #7 in the Lead World Cup…

Charlotte Durif, Adam Ondra, Sasha Digiulian, Laura Michelard, Katarina Posch, Alexander Megos, Tatsumi Nitta, Max Rudigier, Sebastian Halenke, Katharine Choong, Helene Janicot, Jakob Schubert, Gauthier Supper, Fabrice Landry, Mario Lechner and Thomas Tauporn. The routes were excellent and many have…