28 December 2014

The stories of The 8C grading story

The Story of the Two (grading) Worlds 8C is probably, due to the beauty, the controversies and it's grade, the most well known hard core boulder in the world. Dave Graham put it up in 2005 as an 8C and 8a published his grade statement which probably was the major reason for why the Ticino grade inflation was stopped. The controversies were actually caused by UKC who said Koyamada's second ascent "wasn't legitimate" 1. Graham makes FA including his 8C grade inflation statement 2. Dai Koyamada makes 2:nd ascent and UKC reports it as most likely 8C+ 3. Paul Robinson makes 3:rd ascent and UKC report it as 8C+ and says Koyamada's ascents wasn't legitimate 5. Robinson records it as an 8C in his 8a scorecard 6. Koyamada returns and finds a "more natural" start laying on the ground and calls it 8C+. Excellent video 7. Later it was found out that UKC was wrong and that Koyamada had, originally, started in the correct position. It should also be noted that Dave Graham never said Koyamada had started in in a wrong place. Dave had only said that The Story of Two (grading) Worlds are just a "pure sit start" to the Dagger. The UKC article saying that Koyamada's ascent "wasn't legitimate" was based on video comparison with Robinson's ascent who actually had started 40 cm more to the left of how Graham started. The last years, all have started with the logical "pure sit start", from a crash pad, as Graham did.
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