Speed, 60 sec. Intervals and Screaming - Keys for Ondra's 9c

Eric Hörst has made an in-depth analysis of Adam Ondra's video doing Silence 9c and presented it on Training for Climbing. The keys he has found are; Speed; "In my 40 years as a climber, I’ve never witnessed (or viewed on video) a climber moving so fast up a difficult climb." Intervals: "Like Margo Hayes’ ascent of Biographie, Adam climbed all the crux chunks in under 60 seconds—quite literally racing from rest position to rest position—and, just like Margo, Adam spent more time resting on the route than he did actually climbing it!" "The anaerobic lactic energy system can support a high ATP flux in the working muscles for approximately 60 seconds of sustained, high-power pulling and crimping." Screaming; "his MO of screaming through hard sequences is an excellent strategy to drive deep breathing and maintain aerobic power, by avoiding the common problem of “legacy breath holding” (as I call it) in which you continue to breath-hold beyond the instant of doing a single hard move (this results in hypoxia and a greater rate of fatigue)." So to put it simple, this means while training in the gym, you should opt for training to climb faster than normal and divide the routes in 3-4 intervals and in between focus on resting.