9 March 2012

Saurwein sums up 11/12 and grading thoughts

Katha Saurwein is one of the few female who are super succesfull in all disciplines and who also dares to have thoughts on grades How would you summarize 2011 and what are the plan and abition for 2012? 2011 was a great climbing year! After the competition bouldering season I was rockclimbing more often than any year before. I've been to Rocklands for 5 weeks where I did my first proper 8A+ (Black shadow) and then I flew to the USA on the 5th of October and I'm still here. After leadclimbing in the Red River Gorge and multipitching in Yosemite, which was amazing, Jorg and I went to Bishop and now Hueco, where I could climb a lot of problems within the 8A/8A+ region. Soon we will be going to Joe's Valley and Indian Creek, then everything is about competitions again for the naxt half year. The highlight will be at the worldchampionships in Paris, where I'm really excited to compete. Also I want to say something about a topic I came upon in Hueco while climbinging together with Alex Puccio and Shauna Coxey. People tend to downgrade problems, which are frequently done by women or are 'easier' for women, but one can ask as well: Why downgrade problems, which are easier for women (or better said: if you are shorter), when problems which are harder for women or if you are short are not upgraded??? To me it seems reasonable to grade problems for a regular size climber - i.e. most guys. Otherwise there would be a lot of V20's based on little girl ranges - but V11 for 'norma'l range...
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