3 December 2007

Rouhling climbs Salamandre, 9

Fred Rouhling has once again climbed an extreme route in the 9th grade. His latest, Salamandre, features an 8A+ half-pad mono crux after about 15 meters followed by 8b+ climbing. Due to the very specific crux, Fred had to do specialzed training á la Güllich. "About the grade, if it's necessary to talk about it, I think it's a new route somewhere in the 9 range. I think that the grades are very personal and subjective. My references maybe come from a more severe period, even in an old school sandbag place like Buoux they tend to upgrade. Salamandre is among my most extreme routes. Concerning De l'autre cote du ciel and Mandallaz Drive, most of the strong climbers who have tried them tend to think that they are more 9a+. I don't know but I really prefer to keep in mind the uncertainty of such an ascent more than a grade emptied of any substance. Salamandre is very hard, very force specific, and very very.. what I wanted to do these times!" Pictures at Fred Moix' site.
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