Onsight tactics

Training/Jens: The highlights of the season is often the onsights during your travel. Here are some quick tips that might increase the joy, adrenaline and your score. 1. No Eliminations: Climb the rock and not specific holds. Never think, "Is that hold allowed?" Go for it but maybe you did a new route/grade. 2. Fast and risky: Climb offensive and you can try 15 onsights and make 5 hard ones instead of hanging around doing 6 out of 8 easier ones. Every time you get super pump your weekly performance is reduced. 3. Route reading: 5 minutes is mandatory and also to present and discuss your strategy with your friend. 4. Tick List: Check which routes are onsight friendly and if they have been done by climbers of your size. 5. "One more hold": It is easy to mentally give up if you wasted a lot of energy in the beginning. No thinking approach means just focus on the next sequence. 6. Look Down - Visualize/Rest: Onsight climbing is stressful as your head and eyes are like a submarine periscope. By often looking down you have time to rest, sort the information and memorize the next sequence.