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New mega hard trad by Berthod! 

Didier Berthod has put up a new hard trad route in the Orco Valley in Italy, above the village of Rosone.
This place is known by european climbers as a "little Yosemite" assuming the shape of the valley and the quality of the cracks.

Greenspit is a crack traversing a huge overhang. The crack is perfectly horizontal over 12 meters and that's the reason why the climbing in it is similar to roof climbing. There's only one bolt as a belay. The climbing is about finger/hand/fist/ and feet jams along the whole roof. Pain is omnipresent...
Marco Pedrini placed 2 bolts in the eighties, then Roberto Perrucca added another one. After Perruca's death, Gianmario Bellini (a friend of Roberto's) rebolted the roof: 5 bolts and a belay at half the length to the lip in Perrucca's honour.
On the 17th of August 2003, on his first visit, Didier Berthod, a young swiss climber, cleaned every bolt and placed only one above the lip at a no-hands rest ledge.
As nobody's given any name to this crack and nobody's climbed the entire roof, he named it Greenspit to reflect this attitude... Eventually Didier redpointed it on the 14th of September 2003
Here's Didier's grading's proposal:
"About numbers: this route could correspond to an 8b+ in THE valley...
Indeed, the grades of crack routes on each side of the Atlantic are very different. As an example, famous routes like Entrez dans la Légende (8a/5.13b) or Les Intouchables (7c+/5.13a) both located in the Mont-Blanc massif would rather fit a 7b/5.12b grade! The lack of experience in this kind of climb can explain a part of the gap. With a difficulty of 5.14a/8b+ on trad, Greenspit is without a doubt among the most difficult crack climbs in Europe. The redpoint was done with pre-placed gear. European crack grading would possibly suggest a
9a... To reflect this huge gap i decided to grade it 5.14 (8b+/9a). Repetitions will precise it..."
Who is Didier Berthod?
Didier is 22 years old and lives in Switzerland. He's already climbed 8c's and an 8c+ on limestone. About cracks: Phoenix (Yosemite, 5.13a), Cosmic Debris (Yosemite, 5.13b), L'Histoire sans Fin(Petit clocher du Portalet, Switzerland, 7c+, opening and First Free Ascent, see Vertical number 34 june 2003), Ave Ceasar (Petit clocher du Portalet, Switzerland, 7 pitches, 7c, opening and FFA). Bouldering Info