9 January 2011
How to master crux moves
Training/Jens: It is easy to quickly and significantly improve your crux move strength - by recruiting the specific muscles used in the move. You do this by repeating the move over and over again. Your body will learn how to use a higher percentage of muscle fibers, for the specific gripping position and the finger angles. Furthermore, your body will learn to optimize your muscle coordination.
However, as you are working on the moves prior to the crux, you will actually lose your crux move power. Different moves recruit different strength.
If you are falling on the same move every time, try spending extra time on that move alone. This will help you recruit this specific crux move strength. This optimization might do the trick instead of repeatedly working the first moves, which actually might lower your crux move strength.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



