24 December 2012

Higher grades through recruitment optimization

The quickest way to get stronger is through recruitment optimization, i.e. to repeat one move just as you do while bouldering. Fred Nicole often use "power spotting" meaning that he has somebody pushing him on his back in order to make the move using his best finger position all the way. For every hold, there is for every climber an optimal finger angel. Normally this is either; Open hand, Open Crimp or Closed Crimp, see the picture.
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