15 December 2013

Great community progress in 2013

2013 has been an amazing year for the climbing community. It is not just that we have seen harder ascents then ever, the level has gone up more than any previous year and it includes both male and female, route and boulder and kids and oldies. More climbers than ever have done 9a and and we have seen three 9b+ ascents (Ondra 2 and Sharma). We have also seen the first 9a onsight (Megos) and the second (Ondra). It is only in the 9a+ grade and the 8c+ onsight level, we have not seen a progress in. The last four years, an average of ten guys have done 9a+ and harder at the same time as the 8c+ onsights are going down. However, with all 9a and 8c onsight climbers, many guys are knocking at the door for the next level. In bouldering, it is the contrary, more guys than ever have done the top level, 8C and 8B+, and the big question is if not some guys have already opened the 8C+ door. When it comes to flashes, it is James Webb who has set the new standard and many are following him closely. For the female, we have seen an increased number of 8c ascents but the most striking thing is still age and performances when it comes to female route climbers. Ashima Shiraishi (12) with another two 8c+ and two 8B's is not alone. Two 9-year-olds girls have done 8b and amazing wonder kids like the Hörst' and Raboutou's are popping up everywhere around the globe. Another example of this is Mirko Caballero (12) and nowadays there are actually quite a few youngsters who are almost at Ondra's level becoming teenager. Muriel Surkany did her first 9a being 39 but there are also several ladies well over 40 pushing all the way to 8b+. We have also heard about guys almost 60 doing 8b+ and even 8c and equally impressive are the guys almost retired in Fontainebleau. If this progress trend will continue as strong in 2013, in few years we will have hundred guys, including teenagers and possibly some females, doing 8C boulders and it's very first flash. Several girls and boys doing 8c's and when they turn teenager, they will directly jump to 9a and we will see Ondra's all over the place pushing him for a 9A boulder and a 9c redpoint. We are also of course eager to see an ascent of the Dawn Wall with potentially several 9a pitches. In a longer perspective, the trend tells us that we will have ladies doing 9a's as well as 60 year old oldies. What a fantastic and amazing future we are looking at. Fasten seat belt and play it safe do not forget the awful accident for Tito Traversa (12).
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