30 October 2014

Goldrake 9a+ by Gabri Moroni

Gabriele Moroni has finished his longest project ever, the 9a+ Goldrake in Cornalba which Adam Ondra made the FA of in 2010. In total, the former successful boulder competition climber has done twelve 9a's and two 9a+. Comments from the Italian is coming up. - I tried Goldrake a lot a few years ago. I got pretty close to send it after some days... then I kept failing for another season. This route really deceived me many times. Of course it has a lot of hard climbing in it but what made Goldrake really extreme for me was dealing with the conditions and the skin issues. I got plenty of times at the top crux with numb fingers. Once I fell past the crux also with frozen tips so I decided to quit trying it for a while. It was really hard for my motivation. This year I came back probably stronger and with a fresh mind and incredibly after a couple of days I sent. It is in incredible how the body had all the moves and feelings still memorized...
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