24 May 2011
Down climbing cheaters?
Debate/Jens: It is just a natural part of the game that the top climbers push the ethical boundaries. In some ways it is very good as it makes climbing more fun. Some years ago, it was not allowed to hang-dog a route, to have the quick draws pre-placed or to top-rope a boulder.
Examples of very dark grey and unnatural climbing practice to get fame and sponsors.
1. Top rope redpoint/OS based on a down climbing
Reverse to the ground once after having clipped the first drawers are generally accepted. However;
a. Some do it in an organized way meaning that they spend time and project to down climbed as high up as possible.
b. Even if they fall on the next attempt they claim that they always can top rope the down climbed carabiner, as they showed it was possible.
c. Some actually, redpoint based on preclipped but do not claim the ascent before they have done the yo-yo climbing without falling.
d. Others spend time and train reverse climbing on their future onsight project.
Climbing means moving upwards and is a sport where time should not be spent on down climbing challenges. The 8a recommended ethics suggest that one pre-clipped is always OK and based on safety, two is also OK. If you, for any reason, down climb more, is is accepted as long as you not untie.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



