4 September 2012

Defined starts for the worlds first 8B and 8B+

Click on the picture to see the defined starts of the world's first 8B and 8B+. After one move they share the same holds and sequence before they split. In between the two defined starting positions, a new direct start from an undercling has been found skipping one move. Original picture by Carsten Wittenberg from Boulderproject The new starting move, in the middle, some 10 cm respectively 30 cm in between the left and right starts, was initially said to lower the difficulty with one grade. Later also the original two starts have been subject of being down graded. La danse del balrogs was put up in 1992 and Radja, including a the more challenging start, in 1996 by Fred Nicole who is the most important boulder pioneer in the world. Fred was one of the first establishing hard core boulders in Rocklands, Hueco Tanks, Grampians and Switzerland. Do you have to use the same starting holds that the FA used in order to repeat boulders? Or should you give the boulder a new name if you did find an easier starting sequence?
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