15 December 2008

British trad ethics = preplaced gear!?

The trad ethics used all over the globe is that you should place the gear on lead and if you fall you have to clean the route and start all over again. However, the trad ethics in Britain allows you to take falls and continue with the preplaced gear once you have "down climbed" it before. You can always start top-roping the route on preplaced gear from the highest point you have downclimbed or even jumped down from. A "ground-up" ascent can in fact mean that you top-rope the start based on your friends skill preplacing the gear. Is this top-ropeing ethics practiced in any other place in the world. Should it be considered as a valid trad ascents?/Jens
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