14 July 2013

Another 9a (8c+) OS for Adam Ondra or?

Adam Ondra has onsigthed Torture physique in Gastlosen but he is unsure whether he just did the first 8c pitch or the 9a extension. If he has done the latter, he would give it a personal grad of 8c+. "What a nice feeling of feeling strong! I kept climbing, clipped the first anchor of 8c (and didn't know about it, as there is only one bolt with lock-carabiner), continued, clipped the anchor of second pitch from the reinforced side-pull, unable to continue nor clip the second bolt of the anchor. While falling off, I thought that I had not sent even the first 8c. What a nice suprise was to find out that I might have just onsighted Torture Physique 2.0, which was graded 9a at first, that ends up in that anchor, even though I don't know if you are allowed to clip the anchor from underneath (reinforced hold) or you have to do this two more moves. Nevertheless, I did at least the first pitch and maybe the second one as well. Nevertheless, the second pitch seemed to me like easy or hard 8c+, depending on where it ends." Adam has previously done two 9a's for which he has given a personal grade of 8c+. Later he did the FA of the second extension giving it 9a+ but says it might be 9b for shorter guys. "This place is crazy!!! I love it here."
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