12 February 2018

8b+ trad by Michael Gunsilius

Michael Gunsilius, who previously has done one 9a, has done his first hard trad route, Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ in Bürs which Beat Kammerlander put up in 2009. Two of five tries Michael worked until the afternoon, sat into car drove 250km and did one try before the condition were to bad to do another try in the evening. "It's 40m long with round 20 placements and it's a specific kind of limestone therefore it's difficult to protect, you need special offset gear because most of the placements are not parallel like in granit. Additional you have to belay super soft because a few of the nuts are only made for technical climbing and not for protecting regular fall." Next up is to do an 8b+ MP this summer to push his limits in yet another disciplines. If Michael reaches his next goal, and including a previous 8B boulder, he should be considered one of the best multi-discipline climbers working full time.
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