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The Youth World Championship 2017 did show that the youngsters are well ahead of the seniors when it comes to Speed climbing. Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020. Here is a provisional ranking list of the kids having the greatest chances. Note, it has net been decided how many athletes from one country can participate. Most likely it will be max 2 or 3.

WC results marked as B and L: PR = Personal record in Speed
1. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN: #4 and #5 in last two L & B: PR 8:51
2. Sam Avezou FRA: #11 in Lead: PR 7.51*
3. Meichi Narasaki JPN: #2 in B & #11 in L WC: PR 8.00
4. Kai Harada JPN: #5 in B and #18 in L: PR 8.08
5. Filip Schenk ITA: #22 in Lead: PR 9.65
6. Kai Ligthner USA: PR 8.03
7. Carlos Granja: PR 6.53
8. Keita Dohi JPN: PR 8.10

1. Ashima Shiraishi USA: #5 in Lead: PR 11.98
2. Claire Buhrfeind USA: #16 in Lead: PR 9.17
3. Elena Krasovskaia RUS: #33 in Boulder: PR 9.19
4. Margo Hayes USA: #6 in L and #6 in B: PR 13.29
5. Brooke Raboutou USA #10 in L and #9 in B: PR 11.00
6. Laura Rogara ITA: #6 in Lead: PR 13.34
7. Laura Stöckler AUT: #21 in Lead: PR 10.52
8. Iuliia Panteleva RUS: PR 9.82

* It should be noted that Sam Avezou is the best Speed climber in the world out of the ones performing on a world class level in at least two disciplines. Sean McColl who has won many senior Combined titles has a personal record of 8.83 seconds.