IFSC is about to take decision in regards to the Olympic format this weekend and here are the 8a thoughts which focus on the following: that the Speed route should vary, be steeper and include four lanes.
1. The Speed world record holder, Danyl Boldyrev, has told 8a he thinks the fixed route is boring.
2. There are only a dozen certified world record walls in the world
3. The Paris World Championship wall did not get certified
4. Most potential athletes live many hours from nearest Speed wall
5. Gym owners do not want rebuild their walls
6. We should not make kids (slow) speed climbing robots
7. Six second spectacle is too little
On the other side, the current 6b+ route is too difficult for the youngest athletes and in fact harder for shorter kids. Even in world champions, runs over 15 seconds are normal and the fixed route setting excludes the average young climber to speed climb. In some countries they have actually added holds in order to let the youngest reach the top.
IOC has said that the best must participate and ultimately, if we will make it to the 2024, Ondra needs to participate. A steeper route is longer, looks more impressive and is less about leg muscles. It will also need less invested time for Ondra etc to get a high level which makes him more interested to participate.
10 - 18 meters high
0 - 4 meters overhanging
7a difficulty down to 5a for kids
Up to 10 meters (four lanes) wide
Normal route setting
In regards the Combined format, 8a suggest that first all 20 athletes will do one run of Lead, Boulder and Speed. Then calculate the Top-8 and do one more run. As an option, the Top-4 can then compete with semi and finals in a Duel to decide the podium. Adam Ondra has said he thinks the 8a Olympic solution is "reasonable in terms of fairness" besides the Duel.