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Luzan Matyas and his total obsession on Action Directe 9a  (10)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the last 14 months, Luzan Matyas has had some 300 sessions of campusing and doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe. Out of 300 tries, he has done it once and now his plan during this summer is to start adding a weight belt making sure he can increase his personal best by four grades in October. The Romanian says that, based on old school grades, Action Directe is an 8A jump, into an 8b followed by an 8b+.

After four months of initial preparation, he could do all the moves and link the first eight even if his personal best was just 8b as of last July. Luzan says that he knows that if he had projected a 9a endurance route, he could have probably done several 8c+s the day after.

"I am fully aware that I am training FOR Action Direct and that I might fall on an 8a a few times the next day. Walking the fine line between maximum training effort and catastrophic tendon injury is equally challenging. I like this kind of constant awareness but in the end it is the instinct that tells me where the line goes.

I just want to climb Action because Wolfgang is one of my heroes and AD looks amazing, and more, I think it is possible to climb such a hard 9a while having a full time job. I also think that every person has a style, a type of route where he/she excels at, and if he/she discovers what style this is, and he/she really likes it, then yes, 8b to 9a is possible. I believe this deeply. If I had the courage sooner I might have tried AD even before climbing 8b.
There is no bigger source of motivation than challenging what you like. I tend to operate on a whole different level when I enjoy something, I lose sight of the difficulty somewhere."

The video just says it all. We will follow up Luzan's progress and he has promised to make a sketch that could be copied.