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Silence 9c video  (15) Facebook

Livello Zero has published an interview with the film maker Bernardo Gimenez. "We choose to keep the movie in a documentary format, without the over-polished look which a lot of climbing films generally try to achieve.

8A+ flash by Moritz Perwitzschky (18) with the widest pyramid  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMoritz Perwitzschky has been on a nice trip to Ticino where he flashed Ganymede Takeover 8A+ and another two 8A's beside doing four more 8A+'. What is special with the 18 year old who is #3 in the Combined 8a ranking game, is his extremely wide grade pyramid. Already last year we picked this up based on this question.

Is it not time to raise the bar and go for something really hard?
I think not. I just want to climb as much as possible and the result doesn't even matter. The fitness and the sends will come sooner or later, if you don't get injured. And as I don't do any systematical training, I don't really know, what I'm capable of so let's see.

This year, we can see that he has raised the bar based on this question.
What about the 2018 plan and ambition?
2018 plan climbing and bouldering outside as much AS possible, summer Rocklands, 9a Route, 8C Boulder is the goal for this year.

8C by Martin Stranik  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stranik reports on Instagram that he has done Der mit dem Fels Tanzt 8C in Chironico n just two days. (c) Kateřina Stráník

Martin won the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007 and has been competing actively since. In 2015 and 2016, he was runner up in two World Cups. In total the Czech has previously done 27 boulders 8B+ and three 8C's and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game.

Yuji Hirayama (49) getting closer on La Rambla 9a+  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama reports on Instagram that he is getting closer on his big project La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. The 49 year ols has been one of the best climbers in many disciplines since he did Les Specialistes 8b+ in Verdon in 1986. Climbing seems to be the only physical sport where an athlete can stay on top for 30 straight years!

Most 8a users from USA and Spain  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is a diagram showing which countries 8a members come from. USA sticks out with 18 644 (18.9 %) users followed by Spain with 7 418 (11.2 %) members and Germany, Italy, Sweden, Polen, UK and Canada. In general, both the number of users and visitors are rather evenly spread out around the climbing countries on the globe.

The best Crags and Boulder Areas in the 8a data base  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on the star rating of almost 5 million ascents, here are the popular Crags/Areas with the highest quality rating. Just scroll and "mouse over" the list and you can also easily find the best or worst for every country. Interesting to see is that the Boulder and Route list are dominated by USA and Europe respectively. Phalz is mentioned in both list! (c) Markus Köhler

1.8 Yosemite 8 841 ascents, Brione - 2 921
1.7 Poudre Canyon - 3 498
1.6 RMNP - 12 636
1.5 Joe's Valley - 22 935, Phalz - 5 574, Conceição - 3 967
1.4 HP 40, Targassonne, Annot, Moe's Valley, Sintra

1.6 Phalz - 7 997, Montanejos - 5 686
1.5 Finale - 20 635, Terradetts - 8 155, American Fork - 6 751, Verdon
1.4 Céüse - 34 732, New River Gorge, St Légere, Rifle, Maple Canyon, Zillertal, Ten Sleep, Basler Jura

Norway Federation Crag Check - Safety First  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Norway Climbing Federation has published a Crag Check which in order to increase safety outdoors. It can be printed out and placed on crags. Here is the 8a safety first article.

Popular climbs do often get down graded  Facebook

By looking at the 8a data base, we can see that it is often the climbs that are most repeated that sooner or later get down graded or are subject of. The dilemma for the media is that sometimes it is quite obvious that a route, often making headlines, should be reported with a lower more honest grade.

In practice it is often like in the Emperor's new clothes. It just takes one guy shouting out a personal grade for a popular climb. The best example from the 8a data base is Gabri Moroni's comment for Mind Control in Oliana. "Everybody knows it's only 8c...but nobody will ever downgrade it :-P"

In other words, it is actually seldom consensus that confirm or change the grade, because few climbers like to give personal grades. You can also use the success rate including the time and effort used as an indicator for how hard a climb is.

"The Height of Injustice"  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Ring has done some analysis based on the 8a.nu database to see if height and age have any impact on the reached peak climbing grade in routes and bouldering for U.S. climbers. R & I has found Ring's analysis interesting and published a long article.

Looking at the diagram we can see that for 80 percent of U.S. route climbers, their peak performance varied within the 5.12b/c range, for boulderers it was V8 level. Taking into account the overall curve, in bouldering, the very shortest and tallest climbers generally reach a lower grade. Among the route climbers, a short body height might be an advantage, as shorter climbers reached higher grades on average.

However, the differences can be considered rather small – all average peak grades range among the 5.12 and V7/8 level. Ring concludes that to him, "our subjective climbing grading scale is pretty good. […] It would be unfortunate if a super long reach was a prerequisite for climbing most 5.12s. And it turns out that it isn’t."

As a side note, from the very best on rock it is interesting to see that when it comes to grades, a 155 cm female and a 185 cm male (Eiter and Ondra) have achieved the highest grade. In bouldering and in competitions, it is the same, it is impossible to say what is best as many of the top climbers are just around 160 cm or above 180 cm.

Training is so Hawt - Joe Kinder  Facebook

Jorg Verhoeven's 9b Project  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven, one of the leading multi-discipline climbers the last 15 years who won the Lead overall WC in 2008, has launched his Project-9b website. The good news is that it has a training set up so you can follow exactly how he trains and get motivated to do something similar. He has also listed and given specific info of the routes he has tried, including the chosen one - Fight or Flight in Oliana. (c) Tobias Lanzanasto

"What's nice about the route is:
It's short, which means you can do quite some tries in a day
You only stop to clip 3(!) times during the hard part
The holds are relatively friendly
It is freaking amazing to climb on

What about loosing weight just before next trip and how does the time plan look like?
I'm not a fan of losing weight, even on short notice. I think power will reduce, and risk of injury will increase.

March 1 - 15. I will try to send this trip, and if not come back in April, and eventually next year. That way you might understand the pressure is reduced quite a lot. Open time frame...

Climbing in the Westbank  Facebook

8c+ by Thomas Blaabjerg who walks with crutches  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Blaabjerg had a bad auto belay accident in 2013 and the doctors told him he will not be able to climb again. Walking with crutches, last summer he did 8B+, video below, and now he has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. (c) Melanie Nacnac

"Even though I love Bouldering, and it is probably what i am best at, I guess, that I have always been a bit more inspired by lead climbing - especially the long ones! For a long time I had to put lead climbing on hold because of the circumstances (my feet) but after completing Never ending story, I decided to see if it was still possible to chase some of my dreams."

Climbing Ethics  Facebook

Here you have the 8a Climbing Ethics presented in a traffic light Green, Yellow and Red colors, meaning that there are no absolute right or wrong. In the Epic TV; Onsight, Flash, Redpoint and Headpoining is presented and discussed including giving some tips by Adam Ondra.

Climbing Lifestyle in Spain - Sasha Digulian  (2) Facebook

Dreamtime 8B+ (C) by Jakob Schubert  (16) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the leading competition climbers who just flashed a confirmed an 8C calling it 8B+, reports on Facebook that he has done a ”quick” ascent of Dreamtime giving it a personal 8B+ grade. The legendary boulder was put up as the worlds first 8C by Fred Nicole in 2000.

"Although it might not climb as perfectly as in the past (hold broke) it‘s still an amazing boulder and such a nice line! Very happy to send such an historical and legendary boulder."

The picture from Heiko Wilhelm is from Jakob's flash of Rah Plats Plats 8A also in Cresciano.

One more 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (52)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has done her fourth 8a+ in 2018, Smashing pumpkins direct in El Chorro. "One of the king lines! Evening send as it was too warm. The higher you climb the better it gets!A perfect route anyway."

Out of the twelve 8a+' she has done the last year, four she did second go. In total she has recorded 634 routes 8a to 8b which just might be the most any female have done? And as a matter of a fact, including two 8b's and 43 8a's the last twelve month, she is at her peak being 52 years old.

China Climbing Documentary Project  Facebook

7C and 7B by Oriane Bertone (12)  Facebook

8C in an hour by Nomura Shinichiro  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNomura Shinichiro has, in an hour, done his third 8C Orochi in Kanoto. It was put up in 2006 by Dai Koyamada and has had six ascents. During the same day the 21 year old also did Ginga 8B+, on his third go. (c) Keiichiro Korenaga

Amazingly, the 159 cm tall started climbing on rock last December and directly did two 8C's. Previously, he has focused on competitions and has a silver in the Youth Worlds. In the last five IFSC Lead WCs 2017, his worst position was #29.

"What I normally do at my home gym, Project which Dai Koyamada owns, is checking my body condition of basic elements like to see whether my body moves in right way or not and to check holdings. And I have a fixed route to observe my body condition by climbing it. Adding to above, I climb harder route to find out what I am not good at and I should do to get over it. I always try to be aware of finding and getting over a weak point.

My climbing on rocks has just began so I would like to gain my experience more in 2018. I am going to try more and more 8B+ over problems. I also would like to compete as a member of Japan National Climbing Team for Lead World Championship."

Arco Rock Star picture contest 21-22/4  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOn the 21st and the 22nd of April, the vertical walls of Garda Trentino will be the scene of the third edition of the Arco Rock Star, the international contest of climbing photography. Two days during which athletes and photographers will go in search of the photo that describes the athletic gesture, but also the landscape and everything that revolves around climbing - from the fatigue to the smiles, from the sunsets to the beers. In short, a story of passion for climbing and for photography.

Two categories, Pro, who are selected by invitation among the leading names in the outdoor photography all around Europe and beyond; and Open, where people can soon register in our website Arco Rock Star or directly at Arco, before the event.

For each team, a photographer and maximum three athletes that will try to achieve the coveted prize. Celebrating the La Sportiva 90th anniversary, Arco Rock Star will run a special contest dedicated to the History of climbing and alpinism “La Sportiva Anniversary”.

La Capella 9b by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook

Ondra technical training and flexibility is most productive  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePhysical training recipes you find all over and this seems to be the prioritized way of training for almost every dedicated climber. It is easy to follow a physical program and it is easy to measure progress. In practice, this means that most of us have trained hard to optimize our physical strength. At the same time, you might be close to get injured if you just continue that physical focus.

In other words, it might most productive to add a couple of hours with technical training instead of a continuation with sub-optimization physical training.

Looking at the best climber in the world, Adam Ondra, we can see that what most differate him to other climbers are actually his fast climbing as well as knee-dropping and flexibility.

As simple as it sounds, the fastest way to progress for the dedicated climber is probably just to try to copy the master. During every other training session, spend an hour climbing very fast and also practice on your knee-dropping technic as well as doing some flexibility training.

Within a month, you have probably made a solid base to take the next step in your progress.

How do you climb/train 2018?  Facebook

The results will be compared with an identical poll from 2015.

No Speed focus in Innsbruck Combined WCH  Facebook

In a Combined competitions, the guys who perform well in all disciplines are normally the ones who qualify to the final or who win. This is actually not the case in the Combined World Champion qualification in Innsbruck as the results in the three disciplines are not summed together but multiplied.

Let us say there are 100 athletes in all three disciplines, the following calculations show that if you are not Top-3 in at least one discipline it almost does not matter if you actually perform well in all three disciplines. In brackets the summed results which is used in most Combined competitions.

1 * 5 * 100 = 500 points (106)
3 * 3 * 57 = 513 points (63)
10 * 10 * 10 = 1000 points (30)

If the qualification results were summed, the guy who performed well in all three disciplines would have been the superior winner. However with the multiplication formula, he/she will not have any chance to make it to the Top-6 final. As the Top-30 or so best positions in Speed are occupied by the specialists, it has relatively low impact if you are the best of the non-specialist or dead last. What matters is scoring Top-3 in at least one discipline.

It should be mentioned that in the final, good results in all three disciplines are relatively more valuable. Further more, with the Speed specialist out of the game, the importance of a good speed performance is equally important as doing well in Lead and Bouldering two disciplines.

1 * 1 * 6 = 6 (8)
2 * 2 * 2 = 8 (6)
3 * 3 * 1 = 9 (7)

8c+ and 9a by Christof Rauch  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, #1 in the 8a boulder ranking game, has tied in and done Bucking Bronco 8c+ and Sid Lives 9a in Arco. "Ohhhh my god! Sooo happy! Checked the moves two times yesterday, one more time today and then did it on my 5 try from the start after an epic fail the try before. Awesome bouldery route with some of the coolest pinches around. Syked!

I've not really prepared for routes but I like pretty long boulders and the routes I've climbed are quite short. @2018, I have no special goals at the moment, I just want to climb some cool boulders and maybe some old projects."

The last year, Christof has done 125 boulders 8A and harder and he is probably the one having done most hard boulders in the world during the last four years, almost 500. Amazingly, he is working full time as an engine building technician in a water plant and got his first sponsors last year but just products.

Other sports/hobbies beside climbing?  Facebook

In own matter: redesigning 8a.nu  (13) Facebook

As many of our regular users already know, the 8a.nu platform has been run by Vertical-Life since recently. It is our common aim to improve the service, design and usability of the page. We provide the world’s most extensive database of crags, routes and information on ascents. It is our intention to make sure all this information is easily accessible to climbers around the world.

We appreciate the collaboration of a broad network of climbers, who love to use 8a.nu for tracking and sharing their personal achievements and for celebrating those of friends and of the community.

Our editorial focus is on news reports and analysis of outdoor climbing and competitions.

The thorough redesign of the website will require a few months, because we need to ensure that contents and functionalities are maintained. We hope you are as excited as we are! Stay tuned :-)

About Vertical-Life: specializing in software and media for climbing, operating on an international level. With the Vertical-Life app, the Smart Climbing Gym system and the Smart Scorecard for comps we offer digital products for climbers and professionals in the climbing industry.

Top climbers with most recorded ascents  Facebook

Here are the active 8a top climbers with most recorded ascents that through their star rating of their routes and boulders help the community to find the best crags and climbs. It might not be a coincidence that some of the best also have the widest grade pyramid, also relatively easier climbs are interesting to remember.

2 529 Moritz Perwitzschky
2 268 Jose Agustí
1 964 Adam Ondra
1 854 Christof Rauch
1 837 Rafa Fanega
1 671 James Webb
1 644 Paul Robinson

1 484 Daniel Fuertes
1 452 Mathieu Bouyoud
1 243 Jernej Kruder
1 146 Ramón Julian Puigblanque
1 089 Jan Hojer
935 Alex Honnold

Trendy big crags and the NOT trendy  Facebook

In the Ticklist, the percentage of the ascent added the last year is measured. Using the %, here are the big trendy crags/boulder areas as well as the Not trendy.

54 % Leonidio, Lofoten
21 % Chulilla
20 % San Vito Lo Capo, Mallorca, Black Mountain,
19 % Brione
16 % Rocklands
15 % Cuenca, Albenga

3 % Railay Beach, HP 40
4 % Terradetts, Orpierre, Freyr, Hueco Tanks, Cresciano
5 % Rumney, Chateauvert, Tres Ponts, Peak District, Zillertal, Targassonne

Highballs and Dynos in the Reunion Jungle  Facebook

Adam Ondra does the FA of Eagle 4 9b  (2) Facebook

Best Climbing Shoes - 2018?  (3) Facebook

Based on almost 3 000 unique votes, here are the result for - Best Climbing Shoes? La Sportiva continues their domination and Scarpa gets an improved result.

44 % La Sportiva
20 % Scarpa
14 % Five Ten
06 % Tenaya
05 % Boreal
04 % Ocun
07 % Other (Most mentioned: Evolve, Wild Climb and Mad Rock)

8b by Chuck Odette (62) going for 8b+  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChuck Odette, who did two 8b+' last year, being 61 years old has done Killer Bees 8b in Hurricave. In the Age bonus ranking, the 62 year old is #2 after Adam Ondra. (c) Heidi Baxter

"The older I get, the harder they feel…but I’m not giving up yet!

It seems like every time I send a route, there’s a small contingent of people who want to downgrade it because I’m so old it must not be that hard. There’s an indisputable, previously downgraded to 14a (8b+) route which suits my strengths that I’ve been saving for an old age ascent, hopefully in 2018. If I can stay healthy, I’ll do it!"

8A+ by Nina Williams  Facebook

Silence 9c premiere 23/2 at 9 pm - Ondra & Moffat Show  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureWhat does it take to climb the world’s first 9c? How do you train for such achievement? That and much more will be revealed in the 17-minute film directed by Bernardo Giménez which documents Adam Ondra’s journey to the successful climb. It shows what preceded the afternoon of September 3, 2017 when he “sent”, as climbers say, this project in the spectacular Hanshelleren Cave in Norway.

"Silence is located in one of the beautiful Norwegian fjords. I really like how the extreme sport achievement goes hand in hand with the peaceful and gorgeous surroundings in the film giving it a very special feel. Bernardo did a great job depicting this contrast,“ says Adam Ondra, the main protagonist, about the movie.

The film will premiere in Riva del Garda, Italy, as well as online as the whole event will be live streamed. “We wanted everyone to have a chance to enjoy the evening with us and watch the movie which is why it will be also available on YouTube for free afterwards,” explains Pavel Blažek, Adam Ondra’s manager."

(c) Photo credit Pavel Blažek More info and live stream link. We will present the embedded code so the premiere can be seen directly on the 8a website.

Gelmanov searching for the climbing paradises in Mexico  Facebook

Frozen Waterfalls North of Detroit  Facebook

Studio Bloc Masters 17-18/3 in Pfungstadt  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStudio Bloc Masters is organized for the third time and is open for both amateurs as well as professional athletes. Names such as Alexey Ruptsov, Jongwon Chon, Jan Hojer, Fanny Gibert and Janja Garnbret are among the participants every year.

The prize money is € 10,000 where the winners get 3,000. At the same time it is a charity event where the entire profit goes to Meeting Sun children.

"During the qualification we count with around 500 competitors from all over the world. YOU can be one of those trying to challenge 80 qualification problems set through all over our 2000m² sized bouldergym. The level of the boulderroutes will be set from easy to hard, so that anyone can score points!"

Midtbö comes clean about his Vlogging  Facebook

Magnus Midtbö, #4 in Arco WVH and 8c+ onsight, started Vlogging ten months ago and has now made 110 episodes. It is about his daily life and also showing some extreme training regimes. In the video below he comes clean and talk about social media and how to get attention for the sponsors. He has almost 35 000 subscribers on his Youtube channel and 121 000 followers on his Instagram.

Lattice Training - Ascending Board Problems  Facebook

Coordination training with Narasaki and Noguchi  Facebook

8b (+) trad ascent by Tom Randall  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Randall has done La Fuerza de la Gravedad in Vadiello giving it a personal grade of 8b. Last year Carlos Logroño made the FA with the gear pre-placed. (C) Talo Martín

In December Tom tried the route for three days with Swedish WC athlete Hannes Puman (19) with no success. Hannes only climbed cracks once days before with Randall as well on a bouldery 7A+ roof-crack in La Pedriza. He also never put a cam before so both considered that could be better with the cams pre-placed. Surprisingly Hannes did it after just check the route for the first two days without any expectations and sending it the last day on his first try leading.

Last week, Tom sent it after warm up on the route and sending on his first go placing the gear on lead. Video coming soon. Randall has previously done 15 trad routes between 8b+ and 8c+, Century Crack, and should be considered one of the best crack climbers in the world. He also have a 9a+ trad project, the Crucifix, in USA and plans to go there one month in October.

Tom has chatted to Adam about Century Crack and the Crucifix because the fact that Silence has a crack in the middle, seemed very interesting. Surprisingly, Adam said that Century Crack was one of the few hard trad routes that he’d be interested in repeating. Likewise Tom has said that he’s keen to look at the crack beta on Silence as it looks very similar to a lot moves him and Pete Whittaker have done.

Ondra comments his 9a+ flash  (7) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra comments his and the world’s first 9a+ flash. The picture by Bernardo Gimenez is from Adam's Instagram.

Flashing Super Crackinette is definitely a big mental breakthrough for me. 9a+ flash has been a goal of mine for many years now, but the problem is to find a good route. And once you have it, it is a problem to find someone who gives you the perfect beta. And then, the pressure could be way bigger than competing in the finals of World Championships. I had only tried seriously two routes of 9a+ grade in the past - Biographie in 2012 and Seleccion Anal in 2014. Biographie was quite far, Seleccion Anal was very close, but it is definitely not a reference for 9a+ and i honestly think it is more of 9a hard.

Then, I pretty much ran out of convenient routes. Then, I was once in St Leger and saw this project. It was a project with 9a question mark. It looked so perfect. A few moths later, Alex Megos finally made the first ascent and gave it 9a+. I knew immediately this could be the goal. Perfect line and reference grade by Alex himself.

This trip, I came to St Leger specifically for this trip. And it was a lot of pressure. I had so much doubts if I am strong enough, if I should not postpone that by another year. But then Bernardo was supposed to come for the filming, Quentin Chastagnier was supposed to come to show me all the moves (thanks for that!). At one point, there was no step back. I had to give it a try.

And I felt just so strong and confident, but as the end was getting closer, I could feel a bit nervous. The final last hard move was heartbreaking, but in the end, I had a tiny margin and did not let go. The way towards the anchor was free and towards one of my proudest achievements of my carrier.

Top-5 Male + Female comp climbers in the history  Facebook

Here is the 8a Top-5 male + female competition climbers in the history. It is based on the number of points achieved, number of WC wins, number of World Championships as well as podiums. The ranking can not be calculated as there has been different of number of World Cups and World Championships. Further more the first Lead World Cup was 1989 and the first Boulder in 1999. The list does also reflect who has been dominating over the years.

1. Jain Kim - Ramon Julian Puigblanque
2. Angela Eiter - Kilian Fischhuber
3. Muriel Sarkany - Jakob Schubert
4. Mina Markovic - Adam Ondra
5. Akiyo Noguchi - Francois Legrand

Others that can be mentioned having made a strong mark on the historical competition scene are; Sandrine Levet, Anna Stöhr, Robyn Erbesfield, Liv Sansoz, Maja Vidmar, Dimitri Sharafutdinov, Sean McColl, Jorg Verhoeven, Jerome Meyer, Tomas Mrazek, and Alex Chabot.

9b FA by Adam Ondra  (16) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Eagle 4 9b in St. Leger, France. © Bernardo Giménez

"Today, it was dry, I felt strong, made through the hard part and fell 5m from the anchor from totally easy terrain. Luckily, I could do it even second time in the late afternoon."

Few days ago Adam did Super Crackinette, the first 9a+ flashed ever. In the last 12 months Ondra has done 23 routes from 9a to 9c. In total, there exist 30 established routes 9b or harder. Adam has done 22 of them. The runner up is Chris Sharma with seven 9b's or harder.

8C and WC plans for Matt Fultz  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has after 13 8B+' done his first 8C by the FA of The Expanse in Joe's Valley. Last week he won both the qually and semi in the USA bouldering nationals and was #4 in the final. More info at his Instagram (c) Kieran Hadley

"It took me about 6 sessions in total. I’ve never competed in a World Cup, but I’m planning on doing Vail and the world championships in Austria this year!"

What is interesting is that the the 26 year old has had an almost continuous progress for eight straight years. In the 8a ranking game, the 183 cm and 78 kg, is #7.

Durif and Larson in Hollow Mountain Cave  Facebook

Hirayama (48) goes for La Rambla 9a+  Facebook

Yuji Hirayama reports on Facebook that he is leaving for a three weeks trip to Spain where he wants to finish something he worked hard on 2005. " I do not know if the timing of life is limited and I can fill in the past time, but now I want to clip the anchor!!!"

What he must be talking about is La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. What an extreme feat it would be if he could take it down being 48 years old. During the last years he has done both 8c+ and 8B+. Yuji should be considered the most accomplished multi discipline climber in the world the last 25 years:

Dreamtime 8C by James Webb  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb reports on his Instagram that he had to leave Fontainbleau due to rain and instead went to Cresciano where he did Dreamtime 8C on his first day. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith

"4 years ago I spent countless days trying this thing and was never able to put it to rest. It was a massive mental and physical battle for me and it killed me to not be able to complete it."

Dreamtime was put up by Fred Nicole in 2001 as an 8C but was considered 8B+ for many years until it broke. In total James has previously done 14 boulder 8C and one 8C+ and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Counting only flashes, he has been #1 for several years including having flashed 14 boulders 8B.

Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook

9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook

Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook

8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook

Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).

Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.


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