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Barbara Zangerl tries Estado Critico 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Seb Bouin doing a 9a (+) and talks about his injury  Facebook
 

 
 
The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 2: Conditions  Facebook
 


The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 2: Conditions from Frischluft on Vimeo.

 
 
Three 8B's in Font in day by Nicolas Pelorson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Pelorson, Euro Youth Champion last year who just was #2 in French nationals, has done three 8B's in a day in Fontainebleau; Gecko Assis 8B+, Khéops and Satan i helvete on the picture, without his left shoe. In fact he also did Verdict 8A on the his amazing record breaking day. In the 8a combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #6.

"I have previously made 1 session in "Satan i helvete", 2 in "Khéops" and 2 in "Gecko". Conditions was perfect, not much sun and a little fresh wind. I did "Satan" with only one shoes because there is a kind of 2 finger pocket hold for the left foot which is impossible to use with a climbing shoe. Barefoot, I can put my big toe into this hold and it's easier."

 
 
Fish Eye 8c by Ella Adamovska (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureElla Adamovska reports on Instagram that she has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Last week, the Chech did her first 8b+ and in total she has done six routes 8a and harder in Oliana. In 2015, she was #7 in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Speed and the importance of breathing  (1) Facebook
 

Steve Townshend, the fastest 8c+ climber in the world, has always used speed to do hard routes and here he explains the importance of breathing. Adam Ondra, known for his Speed, agrees with Steve and have also given some comments in the end.

"Generally fast is better as long as you don't sacrifice efficiency. On some hard moves or sequences I have discovered I need to force myself to slow down. I also have practiced a lot of yoga, where you time your breathing with your movement, and I've learned to apply this same concept to climbing and that it really helps. I used to fall off at the crux sometimes but other times I wouldn't and I couldn't figure out why?

Until I applied this "breath with movement" idea and discovered that if I was breathing in during the crux I would fall. I needed to take air in just before the hardest moves and then either hold it in during the crux or exhale during the crux. This is why Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma scream (and tennis players and Bruce Lee) during the hard moves, it enhances your power.

A hard part about this "rest" or with climbing slowly in general, is letting other thoughts enter your mind. You want to stay in the "zone" and not start to over analyze things. Sometimes if my mind starts to wonder I just focus on my breath to keep those thought out.

Deep breathes seems to be a key to climbing at your max. Just listen to Adam and you'll see he's figured that out too. I'm making a conscious effort to get better at breathing deeper and louder and times with the moves better when I climb at my max and at "full speed"."

We asked Adam Ondra if he could comment Steve's interesting article and climbing style.
I definitely try to breath as much as possible, because why do you get pumped (ie. get lactic acid)? Because of lack of oxygen. The more you breath, less lactic acid. What I usually do when I get to the jug or any rest - breath a lot at the beginning of the resting period, then slower to let my heart rate go down and just before going for it breath deeply a few more times again to motivate myself and "wake" myself up.

Steve's climbing style is very impressive, but I would guess he could try to find a few half-a-second- or 1 second-shakeouts while climbing the first section of the route up to the rest. He has a very good pace with generally relaxed body, but there is not even one second when he would shake either of the hands completely. He just keeps going. And that is tiring. Or the route is too long to be climbed in this style. Of course for somebody as fit as Ramonet it is not efficient to climb as fast.

For Steve or me it could be the most efficient to climb that fast. But if we decide to train like horses, we could be fitter, our ability to shake out while climbing would better and it would be more efficient to climb slower and find more short rests. Other climbers have this fitness naturally, or due to long-life training, ability to rest almost everywhere (weight-dependent and genetic too). For these climbers, it is probably useless to start climbing faster."

 
 
Sharma back in the California beach bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
This is why - Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, who has done several 8A+ boulders as well as 8c, has set her bar on doing Rainshadow 9a.

 
 
8B by Javier Meng  Facebook
 

 
 
L'Evasione - A Week in Switzerland  Facebook
 


L'Evasione - A Week in Switzerland from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
Brazilian Big walling in Madagascar  Facebook
 


Never The Same, Big Wall Climbing In Madagascar from Lie Feng on Vimeo.

 
 
Margo Hayes La Rambla 9a+ training interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, with a background in gymnastics, started climbing at ten and directly joined Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou's Team ABC in Boulder. At 14, Margo did her first 8A boulder and was #8 in the Youth World Championship.

Her progress has been continuous, beside a compression fracture in her spine two years ago which made her stop climbing for three months. In 2016, she did 14 routes 8b+ and harder including her first 9a and got three golds at the Youth World Championship, as well as Climbing's Golden Sport Climbing Piton. Now she is on a one year off before attending University, and focusing on climbing, art, and learning French. Follow her on Instagram or at
MargoHayes.com

What made you try La Rambla and when did you start thinking you could actually do it?
I tried La Rambla because of the beauty, history, and challenge! I really liked the route when I first tried it. I knew that I could send it after my first attempt, because I made all of the moves. It was just a matter of putting the puzzle together.

The weeks before you started working on La Rambla you had been focusing on indoor bouldering preparing for the USA Nationals.
By training for bouldering, I increased my power. This helped me get through the powerful moves.

How has it emotionally been getting all the positive feedback from the climbing community living in the social media era?
The positive feedback from the climbing community has been fantastic! People are generous with their support and I appreciate them taking the time to congratulate me. (c) Greg Mionske

What is it you like most with rock and competition climbing?
Climbing outside gives me a sense of freedom and calm. The mountains keep me grounded and keep life in perspective. I have also been a competitor my entire life. I thrive on that energy and excitement, and I can't imagine not competing. I value both experiences.

What is your next plan and ambition?
I want to continue climbing beautiful routes outdoors and compete on the World Cup Circuit. There is still so much that I want to learn in both arenas. Traditionally, I train for competition on plastic, but do try and combine that with some climbing at the cliffs. If an outdoor opportunity arises, I jump on it!

Any complimentary training?
Most of my training is climbing. I do try to run 1-4 miles a few times a week. On top of that, I fit in some strength training and flexibility work where I can. My routine is always changing, but these things stay constant. When I have the opportunity, I jump on the trampoline and swing on the bars! This is my favorite type of cross training.

 
 
Planet Garbage 9a by Joey Kinder  Facebook
 

 
 
Bouldering on Grafitti walls  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMammut presents some nice bouldering picures by Thomas Monsorno from a famous grafitti wall in Bolzano. It is Michael Piccolruaz, #3 this weekend on CWIF, who boulders and has written the article - Trying something new.

 
 
Safety in focus for the pupils in Brunico  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn Brunico it is mandatory for the pupils to learn how to climb and they practice 12 times per year from they are seven years old. In fact, they also get a grade based on their performance including safety knowledge etc, which is included in their overall gymnastic grade.

From the pupils are 12 years old they are allowed to belay themselves but they start practice already from they are eight years old. In the beginning they are closely supervised by their teachers and instructors and they always belay in pairs. Later, they begin to belay themselves but only after the teacher has made a not two meters up on the rope, see the picture.

Once they lower down their friends, they pass the knot and tighten the rope which makes the rope loosen up. Tubes or Eights are not allowed and instead everyone is using semi-auto belay devices.

When they started with the mandatory climbing in school 18 months ago, some of the teachers, parents and pupils were a bit skeptical but it has turned out to a great success.

 
 
Ice Climbing with Sonnie Trotter and Barry Blanchard  Facebook
 

 
 
Also Ghisolfi and Larcher do La Rambla 9a+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who last 12 months have done one 9b and five 9a+' has in just four tries done La Rambla 9a+. (c) Paolo Sarto

On Facebook, the #4 in the Lead WC 2016, says that four years ago he stood under it but did not have the courage to even try it. This year he started with a flash attempt.

Two days ago, Jacopo Larcher reported on Facebook after having struggled almost a week with La Rambla, "We have just two more days left and I'm falling always higher on "La Rambla". Let's hope for the classic "last day, best day"!". Today Barbara Zangerl reported on Facebook that Jacopo Larcher prediction was right, "He did it last day!!! last minute!!!!!! Yeaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh".

 
 
El Cap show by Jacob Cook and Robbie Phillips  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture

 
 
First 9a (+) by Dmitrii Fakirianov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDmitrii Fakirianov, who was 5 - 2 - 3 in the last three WCs 2016 and who is on his first rock climbing trip, has done Definicion de Resistencia Democrata in Terradets and he confirms previous down grade suggestions. The Russian has also done Blomu 8c+ in Santa Linya and based just his last two weeks, he is #12 in the 8a ranking game.

What is your plan for the last few days?
I have some ideas about one 9a in Santa Linya but I prefer more to climb onsights. I hope we will come back to Oliana and I would like to test myself on Mind control.

 
 
IFSC new 4 min rules a complete disaster  Facebook
 

The Circuit Climbing has made a review of CWIF 2017 saying the new 4 minutes rule in the final was a complete disaster.

"Everyone, from the climbers, to the spectators to the setters complained about the impact on the show."

 
 
Three 8c's by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has during the last week done three 8c's including the FA of Ercole bolted by Cesare Giuliani in Collepardo. Yesterday she did the chipped route Crazy Horse skippin one of the chipped holds. To make the 15 year old's ascent event more impressive, she did it second go. (c) Lorenzo Russo

"I understood all the moves quite quickly. I had to try a few times only one move because I didn't reach one chipped holds so I had to find another method on natural holds.

 
 
Two 8c onsight and a 9a by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reported yesterday on Instagram with a picture by Javi Pec from a failed onsight attempt of Directa Cornualles 8c in Siurana that he has been sick in beds for some days.

"Since then I have been recovering, but I am not back in the shape where I would like to be (and was). Sad to be almost leaving with all my projects untouched, but they will not run away."

Anyway, Adam had time to redpoint Fabelita R2 9a and onsight two 8c's in Sadernes, Milenium and Magin el Mago. In total, the 24 year old has recorded 81 routes onsight 8c and harder which can be compared with the runner-ups who have done like a handful. He also did a "retro-onsight" of Le Concepte integrale 8c+. "I had tried the first 8b+ part 8 yrs ago."

 
 
8B+ in Font by Melissa Le Nevé  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Nevé, the retired World Cup climber who was #3 in the Boulder WC last year, reports on Instagram that she has done her first 8B+, Mécanique Élémentaire in Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl

"Today I was able to send my hardest climb on the paper but mostly my hardest challenge in terms of reachy moves and mental side! After falling a while on the very last move I finally could stand on the top of "mecanique elementaire" 8b+."

 
 
Megos & Le Neve win CWIF through rock climbing preperation  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Neve, who retired from the WC scene last year being #3 overall, prepared for the CWIF 2017 by doing her first 8B+ in Fontainebleau. That worked out pretty nice as she was the only to flash three problems. So why not go to Font again and try the first WC in Switzerland in three weeks?

Alex Megos, who won CWIF also in 2015, has been climbing just easy the last two months due to an inflammation. Three days ago, the German said on Instagram, "I'll be at the CWIF again this weekend but unfortunately won't be able to compete due to a finger injury."

He tried anyhow but after the semi he wrote, "Will see if I'll be able to climb tomorrow in semis. Depends how much my finger will be swollen..." In the semi, he did no good progress on the first three boulder but managed to do the last slab. In the final it was actually the same story again beside this time the slab was the third boulder. Runner-ups were Petra Klingler and Jongwon Chon and thirds were Michaela Tracy and Michael Piccolruaz. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
CWIF goes live 19.10  Facebook
 

 
 
"Lucky Loser" sportmanship Olympic dilemma  Facebook
 

IFSC have decided that only the Top-6 qualifies to the finals in the Olympic. "For the Speed Final the concept of “Lucky loser” (7° and 8° ranked Athletes in the 1/8th finals) applies, as a quota of 6 does not allow the duel system."

As the "Lucky Loser" has nothing to win, this system could create a sportsmanship dilemma as many of the athletes are friends. It might just be that the "Lucky loser" competing towards a good friend, who could get a medal, will not give 100 %. Further more, if a "Lucky loser" makes it to the final or bronze final, such run is of no interest for the competition. In fact, it would actually be smarter for a Top-6 finalist to go a bit slow in order to save energy.
(We assume that the Combined ranking will only be based on the results of the Top-6.)

Imagine how strange it would be for any of the 12 finalist, hundred commentators and tenth of millions spectators to follow such a Olympic Speed final, where some athletes will not go 100 %.

Thesimple solution for this is to include Top-8 to the final. Alternatively have three lanes of Speed routes, where the two fastest qualify to the semifinals.

 
 
Jimmy Webb: CWIF & The Sit project to the Big Island  Facebook
 

 
 
German local youth bouldering - HEILBRONN Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
TNF Bouldering in Japan  Facebook
 

 
 
Joe Mama 9a+ by Matty Hong  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatty Hong, who just did La Rambla 9a+, reports on Instagram that he has done another one, Joe Kinder's Joe Mama in Oliana. He did his first 9a+, Papichulo, one year ago. He also did 25 routes 8b+ and harder in 2016 and received the Sport climbing Piton from Climbing.

How many sessions did it take and How can you best explain your step up in grades?
It took me 5 days of work. I've been climbing more than ever this past year, I think just being able to spend more time outdoors has really helped my climbing and motivation. Finishing school was a big part of this.

 
 
Climbing spots in the focus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"Climbing Gardens of the World" is an exhibition about climbing spots from all over the world. Vertical-Life, together with their partner Leitner ropeways, will present this extraordinary show in the course of the prestigious IGA gardening fair in Berlin (April 13 – October 15).

The exhibition is comprised of a collection of pictures, video material, and real stone, representing a selection of about 200 beautiful and legendary climbing areas. Also, Vertical-Life portraits some of the most exceptional route and boulder developers: Dani Andrada, Fred Nicole, Arnaud Petit, Chris Sharma, and Nasim Eshqi. Video presentation

About 2.3 million visitors are expected to attend the IGA show in Berlin. This means a good opportunity for our sport to get the attention of a broader public, while being a comprehensive exhibition of interest for the climbing community. (c) Helmut Gargitter

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

An 8a interview with Margo Hayes is coming up this weekend. Check out her flexibility and her crimping technique in the video below.

 
 
The world's fastest 8c+ climber, Steve Townshend, is 36 and 190 cm  (14) Facebook
 

Steve Townshend, member of 8a since 2000, has done four trips to Railay projecting Greed 8c+. This January he made another high point with his amazing speed climbing perfectionist style and he is 190 cm tall.

 
 
9a (+) by Sébastien Bouin in Terradetts  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSébastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia démocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important."

The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund

 
 
Bloc Masters 25-25/3 - 10 000 Euro prize money  Facebook
 

From March 25th to March 26th we organize an international bouldercup in our bouldering-gym Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt, Germany: Studio Bloc Masters

This bouldercup is opened for hobby- and professional boulderers, so that everybody is able to take part. Fortunately this cup unites bouldering as a spare time activity and that kind of professional athletics.
Names like Alexei Ruptsov (Russia), Chon Jongwon (Korea) or Jan Hojer (Germany) are already registered.

With an entire prize money of 10.000,-€, Blocmasters are in no way inferior to other named cups. So, there will be a spectacular day of semi-finals and finals.
But this event won´t be a commercial bouldercup, all profits will be donated to "Climbers Against Cancer" (CAC).

 
 
The Anatomy of Bouldering - #1 Height  Facebook
 


The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 1: Height from Frischluft on Vimeo.

 
 
Another 8B by Jack Palmieri  Facebook
 


Director's Cut 8B / V13 from Jack Palmieri on Vimeo.

 
 
Impressive climbing scene in Iran  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKhosro Hashemzadeh, who just onsighted Olympos Games 8b (a+) in Geyikbayırı, gave us some insight into the impressive climbing scene in Iran. Khosro has been an elite climber, coach, and route setter for many years in Tehran.

"We have climbing in almost all the cities around the Iran, maybe more than 3000 climbers around the country. Also lots of outdoor climbing around the country specially in the west side of Iran. Karmanshah is the most famous one in Iran with maybe more than 500 sport routes and also a big wall (Bisotun 1200 meter) with around 50 lines on it.

Also we have lots of gyms around Iran and probably all the cities have one at least. For example in Tehran there are 5 or 6 great gyms which are working pretty well.

Competitions are just like all the Ifsc comps around the world and we have almost 5 or 6 national cups around Iran in all the 3 fields of climbing. Also a national team which participate in most of the world and Asian cups.
We usually have to pay for all the world cups ourselves. The federation just sends sometimes a small number of people to championships. Reza Alipour was runner up in last Speed World Champion and Ali Baratzadeh normally makes it to Boulder WC semis."

 
 
Dmitrii Fakirianov signs up with 8c onsight  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDmitrii Fakirianov, double Youth World Champion who finished the 2016 Lead WC with 3- 2 - 5, is a new 8a member who just onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. The Russian is on an onsight training camp in Spain; he has also onsighted four 8a+ and harder, and flashed Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya.

"Before I didn't climb so much on rocks. In Europe I had the opportunity to climb on rocks in 2013 in Arco, Massone and there I did Renis Vibes 8c/+. After that in 2015 in Crimea. I did the first ascent of a very hard route named "Christmas Party". It was harder than Renis Vibes I think. I was the only one who finished it. I wanted to be humble and I graded it as "8c+/?" because I didn't tried and climbed before 9a.

So how was it onsighting an 8c?
"For me it was hard more mentally than physically because I didn't before onsight so high grade categories. I think that route was my style: after hard sections - rest positions, long route. It's always not so easy to break some barriers when you connecting with something new. For me in this situation that barrier was category 8c.

What are you next plan and ambition?
I have some plans to work on my climbing technic and strength. And to compete in some national comps. I will also soon start training Speed in order to go for the Olympics.

 
 
Luzan Matyas - A unique climber with unique methods  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuzan Matyas has been obsessed with Action Directe since the beginning of 2014 and hsa only trained for this route. In 2015, he tried it and got injured immediately. In 2016, he destroyed his shoe once working out a new toe-hook sequence. Nowadays, he is training 10 hours per day mainly just doing boulders on the Moonboard followed by a rest day. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B.

"I just spend 10h in the gym and try to give it my best. What can I say, I love it. Honestly it's just getting through the pain but it's not so dramatic as it sounds now. It's fun, climbing with others and such."

His plan is to soon start working on the AD replica again. In May, the Romanian with 8b as personal best, plans to go back to Frankenjura, living dirtbag life under AD, preparing and waiting for the best conditions.

In regards the new beta, it is in the middle where he just before the crux, does a toe-hook over his head. He hangs there for some 15 seconds clipping, chalking and doing a very deep lock off, skipping the crux right mono, see right circle in the picture. "This is an easier sequence *IF* you have lock off strength and mobility." 8a interview from 2015

 
 
Pure Cape Town Bouldering  Facebook
 


Pure Cape Town Bouldering from BlocApes on Vimeo.

 
 
L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B]  Facebook
 


L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B] from L. Matyas on Vimeo.

 
 
Moe's Valley  Facebook
 


Moe's Valley by Lorenz Ulmer from 45degrees on Vimeo.

 
 
Tuolumne Meadows #1 in bouldering trend ranking  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureChad Shepard has helped us out with some info in regards Tuolumne Meadows, #1 in the Bouldering trend ranking. It is located 1.5 hours from Yosemite valley at 2,500 - 3,000 meters and the potential is endless.

"The past two summers, I see groups of 20-30 people at each spot every day over the weekend. It appears to be a 10 fold increase in traffic since the new guidebook came out 2014. There's 1200 problems in the Tuolumne guide. and about 300-400 problems not in there. Most of those are newer areas not in the guide, some just too far away. The guide covers an area of about 30 miles of road, and hiking as many miles away from the road as you like. Most of the bouldering on the guide is within 1 hour hike, but you could go farther and find as many new boulders as you want.

The climbing season is generally from June-September, and there is no access at all from November to May. The Tuolumne Meadows area is very large (it’s a much larger portion of Yosemite National Park than Yosemite Valley. You might drive 30 minutes and hike an hour to get to the next bouldering area.

One of main attractions of Tuolumne Meadows is the scenery. It’s in a designated wilderness area, so the landscape fairly wild. The granite domes and high alpine lakes and meadows make for a great backdrop for a day out bouldering. The different bouldering areas are as diverse as the rock quality.

It’s my hope that climbers will understand how fragile the high alpine environment is (many of the boulders are between 8000’-10,000’) and respect wilderness ethics as the bouldering traffic increases."

 
 
The Rab CWIF 2017: Live Webcast on Sunday  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWith the IFSC Bouldering World Cup season starting soon this weekend The Rab CWIF offers a great warmup comp for both competitors and keen spectators.

A fantastic lineup includes competition stars such as Sean McColl, Rustam Gelmanov and Jongwon Chon as well as World Champion Petra Klinger and Melissa Le Neve. Also attending will be David Lama, Juliane Wurm, Jimmy Webb & Alex Megos.
Watch the Webcast Live on Sunday 19th March at 13 with semis and 19 with finals. You can also follow the event at Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

 
 
Rock Slave Best Trick Contest  Facebook
 


Rock Slave Best Trick Contest - Monkey Island, Roma 3 Marzo 2017 from risk4sport on Vimeo.

 
 
Sasha Gerza does Estado Crítico 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Climbing Festival Leonidio 2016  Facebook
 

 
 
Fish autotuber - AustriAlpin  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFish Autotuber is another smart belay device which allows you to feed out rope very easy at the same time it pinches any rope in between 8 mm to 11 mm. It weighs only 68 grams. It is very intuitive and it also has a lever like Grigri for making lowering down more easy and safe. You can also just put in your thumb and lift the device up to release its friction on the rope. Video

All in all, it is a very user friendly belay device and the price is around 60 Euro with the Rondo crew carabiner included. The Rondo is mandatory to use and we asked why?

"During the development process we found out that it is extremely important that the carabiner's cross section fits to the belay device's shape. Only in this combination we can guarantee that the correct function is given. That´s the reason why we decided to sell the FISH in combination with our RONDO carabiner only. If a different carabiner is used, it could happen that the carabiner blocks and doesn´t provide any friction to the rope."

 
 
German National Team trains in Nürnberg  Facebook
 


training german national bouldering team in the E4 nürnberg from Robert Leistner on Vimeo.

 
 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

 
 
8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

 
 
Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

 
 
9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

 
 
9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

 
 
Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

 
 
Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

 
 
Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).


Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

 
 
9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook
 

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

 
 
The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

 
 
Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

 
 
8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

 
 
8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook
 

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

 
 
8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

 
 
8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

 
 
8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

 
 
8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

 
 
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

 
 
Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

 
 
8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

 
 
First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

 
 
Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook
 

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

 
 
Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
8a+ #111 by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 16th 8a+ of the last year, Mr Power in Verdon. In total, the 50-year-old has done 125 routes of this difficulty, including 11 routes graded 8b. When it comes to 8a's, the French lady has done 421 of them and she is still progressing doing more every year!

 
 
First 8c+ by Julia Chanourdie (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJulia Chanourdie, #11 in the last year's Lead World Cup, reports on Facebook, "Last saturday I toped my first 8c+ "L'Avaro" in Tetto di Sarre in Italy. It's a first female ascent. Video coming soon!"

Tetto di Sarre is probably one of the most chipped crags in the world and in fact it is located in a quarry.

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