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8C barefoot again by Charles Alber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarefoot Charles comes with the impressive news on Facebook that he has done another 8C barefoot, Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands. Fred Nicole set it up in 2002 calling it 8B+ but the handful that have repeated it have all agreed to upgrade it.

 
 
Failure and success for Cardwell on La Rambla and Papichulo  Facebook
 

Jon Cardwell spent some three weeks including 30 tries on La Rambla but no success.

"It was very hard for me, mostly because I arrived to Spain with poor endurance. It was good training for Oliana (Papichilo) though! More than anything, it was a mental challenge for me as I kept falling at a single move, just before the main crux.

it would be my opinion that with current standards, to climb to the move where you stab for a left hand two-finger pocket is most certainly a 9a; roughly where the original climb ends. What remains, with the best beta, is no more than 7c route in-itself. However, people have fallen past this move to the pocket. Most certainly an impressive ascent in 1994? And one of the most difficult routes in the world at that time.

 
 
Mental training with Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

 
 
Bavona #2 by Giuliano Cameroni  Facebook
 


Bavona action part.2 from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.

 
 
Bouldering Comp in Brazil  Facebook
 

 
 
30 m ground up DWS 8b+ by Chris Sharma  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has established a 30 m DWS 8b+ ground up which he says is one of the best routes of his life. (c) Giancola Foto

"The Pont d'Arc is an absolute dream line. It's hard to believe something like this even exists! After 4 days trying from the ground up and taking some big falls I was finally able to link to through the arch. It tops out at around 30 meters on the far side of the arch (that you can't see in the photo). A perfect line, on perfect rock in a perfect location. It's hard to get more perfect haha."

Wow, but how dangerous was this?
You know I have a family so I would never do anything really dangerous. I did jump of several times to check the landing and the impact at most up from probably 25 meters.

 
 
Jungle Boogie 9a+ by Alex Megos  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos does his third 9a+ during just the last week by Jungle Boogie in Cëûse. Amazingly he did it on his first day on after having tried it for 15 minutes three years ago. "The video of Stefano Ghisolfi motivated me to try this route again after 3 years! One of the goals of my trip is done!" (c) Liam Lonsdale. Vertical-Life has just presented a new digital version of the Céüse guidebook by Laurent Girousse, Arnaud Petit and Rolland Marie.

 
 
Tendon: Permanent connection between core and sheet  Facebook
 

When the sheath/mantle breaks on your rope, the core like 12 strings appear which is scary and dangerous. Now Tendon has invented a technique where the strings are permanently bonded with an extra sheath/mantle.

 
 
New River Gorge Bouldering - 40 minutes  Facebook
 


New River Gorge 4: 2016-2017 Season from Aaron Schneider on Vimeo.

 
 
Outdoor: Shoes, ropes, belay devices, and innovations  Facebook
 

The 2017 edition of the Outdoor in Friedrichshafen was the most impressive out of all 8a have visited. There is a strong feeling that the climbing industry is doing well and that everyone wants to have a bite of the cake and it is especially about shoes for different segments.

Both Black Diamond and Wild Country launched their shoe line and most of the the established shoe producers presented new models with a greater focus on comfortable gym shoes, female shoes as well as more extreme softer shoes. Just on Outdoor there were about a dozen shoe brands presented. A logical next step for the manufacturers would probably be to continue this trend of comfort to produce a hybrid shoe in between a normal running and a climbing shoe that you never take off during the whole gym session including coffee break. For the kids, La Sportiva has already done it with their climbing sandals for kids where you also get stickers and Ondra cartoons in a package.

Many producers also presented their new or updated semi-locking belay device. In practice, this means safer and possibly also cheaper semi-locking device that will push traditional belay gear out of the market.

When it comes to innovations, the scary Escaper from Beal where you can first rapell and then pull down the full 60 meter length of your rope was most extreme. Other than that Edelrid did, as always, present some cool new things. Tendon has a new technology TeFIX which permanently bonds the sheath to the core. We will present more details later of everything that was interesting at Outdoor.

 
 
Beal Esacaper - Scary magic to rappel and pulling 60 meter rope  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
BLUE ICE III, two greatfull FA´s  Facebook
 


BLUE ICE III from Christian Welkhammer on Vimeo.

 
 
Bouldering in Zillertal  Facebook
 

 
 
Blue Ice III, two greatfull FA´s  Facebook
 


BLUE ICE III from Christian Welkhammer on Vimeo.

 
 
9a FA by Thibault Lair in Bielsa again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThibault Lair has done his second 9a FA in Bielsa, La Hija de la Luna which was bolted last year by Christian Sebie. It took him ten sessions and the next plan is to go to Rodellar this summer.

"It's a very complete route. After a hard section with fingers, it becomes an endurance fest, then leads to the very physical crux. After a rest, a final difficult and athletic section finishes up.

Bielsa is about thirty meters high. A large bulge is formed in the bottom of the crag and then and then it straightens up. There are 30-35 routes mainly bolted by Frenchmen."

 
 
Riverbed 8B by Don van Laere (18)  Facebook
 


Riverbed 8b, Magic Wood from Don van Laere on Vimeo.

 
 
Three 8A's in Magic Woods  Facebook
 


Muttertag 8a, Body count 8a+ & The bomb is explosion 8a. Magic Wood from Michiel on Vimeo.

 
 
Camp Dyon Express: Light, Grab Friendly, Safe and Fast  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOver the years I have been presented several light weight quick draws, when walking around Outdoor in Friedrichshafen. The smallest is probably the Nano from Camp at 22 grams which is very impressive but not so practical. This year they have answered the quest from the community by producing the Dyon Express which is a light weight but also grab friendly quick draw which is very safe and easy to clip due to the key locking closure.

We have tested a sample for two months and if you also one of the guys who are afraid of falling and instead grab, the Dyon might be the best out there. The weight is 82 grams including the 11 cm dogbone. More info

 
 
Sneznik - One Weekend of Bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
Dramatic traffic increase for 8a  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAccording official statistics on Similarweb, 8a has doubled up the traffic during the last four month and for the first time ever, we are now higher ranked than both Rock & Ice and Climbing.

Interestingly, most of the traffic for our competitors come through links on Google and Facebook etc. The 8a visitors, instead, actively write www.8a.nu in the browser in order to get to 8a. Here is a "direct" traffic comparison including also showing that half of the traffic for our main competitors come from their country of origin. At the same time the 8a visitors are evenly spread around the world.

82 % 8a.nu: Traffic spread evenly around the globe
36 % UKC: Traffic 59 % from UK
26 % Planet Mountain: Traffic 59 % from Italy
24 % R & I: Traffic 49 % from USA
24 % Climbing: Traffic 46 % from USA

It should also be noted that 8a is only focusing on sport climbing meanwhile our competitors cover and get visitors interested in all climbing disciplines.

 
 
Bouldering in Israel  Facebook
 

 
 
Neverending Story in Magic Wood by Max Räuber  Facebook
 


Neverending Story - Magic Wood from Max Räuber on Vimeo.

 
 
Mt. Penteli, Sector Alana  Facebook
 


Mt.Penteli, Sector Alana from George Papageorgiou on Vimeo.

 
 
8A (+) by Oriane Bertone (12)  Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone, who previously has done one 8B, has done her 13th 8A, Psychopad assis in Colimaçons.

 
 
9a FA by Pirmin Bertle in Chile up at 3 600 m  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ FA by Alex Megos in Götterwandl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOn the 17th June 2017, Alex Megos climbed the first ascent of a new f9a+ at Götterwandl, close to Nassereith, Tirol. The route, named ‘Clash of the Titans’ links the start of Juturna f8c+ (which Alex climbed on his first redpoint the previous day) into the ‘Vulcanus’ project (as yet unclimbed).

“I feel certain that this route is f9a+. The route consists of two distinct sections, the first part is around f8b+ /f8c and leads to a poor rest that was enough for me to take a moment to shake out. This is then followed by the crux. The sequence involved around 10 moves of consistent font 8a+ / V12 climbing. The moves are powerful and the holds are small. The crux finishes with a throw from an undercling to hit the top crimp and then there is easy climbing to the top. This is the first time I have been to the area and the Götterwandl wall was absolutely amazing. Tirol as a whole has been brilliant. I was shocked to say that I had never been before. I always thought I needed to travel far away to find more world class climbing; Tirol showed me that it’s possible to find incredible climbing right on your doorstep.” (c) Liam Lonsdale

 
 
19th 8B by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Alex Puccio, who was #4 in the Vail WC has done her 19th 8B, Bear Toss in RMNP. She has also done two 8B+ and she is the female who has done most hard core boulders in the world.

 
 
9a again by Seb Bouin  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 9a. (c) Raphael Fourau

"Legend"!!! The first route of the Pic saint Loup waited 20 years to have a First Ascent. I did this beautiful powerful line today. For the grade I propose 9a. For sure one of the more beautiful on this crag. It's time to pass on the next level : "ariégeois cœur loyal" the legend extension. It's my new bolted route where "legend" is just a way to arrive on the crux..."

 
 
Clockwork Orange 8A in Zillertal  Facebook
 

 
 
James Pearson having a trad adventure  Facebook
 

 
 
David Fitzgerald is on the run  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Fitzgerald started climbing five years ago when he joined the University. "The obsession was instantaneous" and within six months he had done his first 7C and after 3.5 years, his first 8B+. Yesterday he did The Buddha Extension 8B.

"It took me roughly four or five sessions to do - the Irish grades are extremely stiff. Throughout the higher grades in Ireland, almost every line should be given either a plus grade or a full letter grade harder. In the lower grades, sometimes giving two or three grades harder is appropriate. It's a funny consensus that we always joke about, but at the same time, we continue to sandbag at every given opportunity. "

It will be very interesting when this super gifted boulderer, later this autumn, will hit more modern grading travelling to Finland and Austria.

"I always try to focus on the finer details in climbing. This attention to detail is important and requires you to be honest with yourself. I think I've progressed as quickly as I have because I obsess about climbing. It's always on my mind. I constantly question what I'm doing and I draw inspiration from how every other person moves. I've always been my biggest critic and I feel that this mindset has helped me get to where I am today.

I train 5 days a week, sometimes 6. On my rest days, I like to stay active by either running, stretching or doing antagonist exercises that target my forearm extensors or my shoulders. When I'm training, I usually climb for about 2-3 hours on the board and then add an extra hour of either fingerboarding, ground core exercises, front lever training or pull-up/push-up pyramids (each exercise lasts for roughly 30 mins, so I'd pick two exercises after each session). All of these sessions end with 30 mins of stretching also.

I just finished my studies this year, so now I can focus all of my energy into climbing. Between training, home projects and trips abroad, I'm very excited to push my personal limits this year."

 
 
Duygu Haug does her first 8c at 39  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuygu Haug has done her first 8c, Zor in Datça. Interestingly, she did her first 8b at 36 and during the last seven months, the Turk has done four 8b+'s.

How come you are such a late bloomer?
I can still give my best because I am still a young chicken, I am joking. Seriously, age is not really important for me. I don’t put any limit to my climbing about age or a grade, I think that kills your motivation once reaching an age or a goal.

When I climbed my first two 8a+'s I was 28 years old. And at that time I had to go to Izmir every weekend 8 hours by bus. I had just weekends and 2 weeks holiday a year to climb, actually not too much. Even though I traveled as much as I could. For sure it was tiring after some hours on the way then to go directly to work. But I never complained. My situation was like this and climbing was my passion. Maybe I could climb earlier 8b, 8b+, 8c or more... If I climbed and trained maybe more, because I think I am talented at climbing and I love climbing. Climbing is my life style. I could climb a lot after I moved to Geyik bayiri. And the summers I climbed in Europe. I improved very fast.

I don't train maybe I should. I climb just in the rocks, 4 to 5 days in a week.

 
 
Ondra: Create your own boulders  Facebook
 

 
 
Sharma and his crew in Malibu Creek  Facebook
 

 
 
Legendary sandstone tower Kobyla in Czech paradise  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+/9a in Russia by Sasha Gerzha  Facebook
 

 
 
Teaser of Ondras's Project Hard 9c?  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has finally set up the website AdamOndra.com where we found this video and plenty of insight info including amazing pictures.

 
 
A redpoint sabotage on McClure's 9b FA  Facebook
 

 
 
Beta site updates  (11) Facebook
 

It's now possible to add new ascents using the beta site! We've added a quick-add option so it's easy to add new ascents when you're at the crag.

Read the full newsletter here

Check out the beta site

 
 
Joker Plus from Boreal  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJoker Plus is presented among Boreal's "Comfortable" shoes and the 2017 version has an updated fit and rubber compound. The 8a testers have said that this is the most comfortable shoe that they have ever used. As soon as you put it on you will notice the soft padding in the front of the shoe which will make you feel like you have a sock on your foot.

Also the heel is padded and below it you have the cushioned heel system which will make boulder landings softer. This anti-impact system feels similar to what is found in running shoes when we actually tried to run with the climbing shoes. This shoe you can use comfortably for an all day session. If you decide to go for smaller size, it is easy and fast to take off and on with the three opposing straps.

Even for the advanced climber who mistreat their feet, this could be like a present for the feet, while warming up or doing laps in the indoor gym.

 
 
9a+ and two 8c+ by Alex Megos  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos has climbed the second ascent of the Jakob Schubert route, 'Companion of Change', f9a+ at Bergstation near Mayrhofen in Zillertal. (c) Liam Lonsdale

The route took Alex 3 days in total to repeat, requiring some savvy tactics to avoid humidity and the summer sunshine, all under the watchful eye of local pioneer and climbing legend, Gerhard Hörhager.

The repeat came after a string of fast ascents of classic routes in the area, including 'Love 2.1' f8C+ & 'Dolby Surround' f8C+, both at Ewige Jagdgründe, which is also situated near the town of Mayrhofen.

Alex said: "Jakob graded the route 9a/+, for me I would say it is definitely f9a+ and a great one at that. This is the first time I visited Zillertal, the whole area is absolutely beautiful and the climbing is even better."

Alex is currently travelling through the Tirol & Süd Tirol regions with photographer Liam Lonsdale, in cooperation with Vertical Life Climbing. They are aiming to explore the region as much as possible during their trip, whilst taking in classic areas and routes.

Vertical Life is unlocking topos for each area that they visit to climb.

 
 
Also Schubert complain about route setting  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMany have complaint about the trend with less steep and parkour route setting in Boulder World Cups which we also did see especially in the qualification in Vail. Jakob Schubert has expressed it nice on his Facebook. (c) Wilhelm Heiko

"3 out of 5 boulders were slabs and only one boulder was pure fitness on holds, some might say that's the new style of bouldering, but in my opinion it's bad setting. Bouldering shouldn't only be about standing on your feet.. When you are done with Qualification and feel like you haven't even climbed today since no boulders were exhausting at all it just feels wrong to me.

I like to fight in boulders, feel the physical strain. Sure slabby boulders are part of the game but they shouldn't be the most important thing in my opinion. Crimps, slopers, pinches, big moves, campusing, jumps, coordination, toe hooks, heel hooks, power endurance,...there are so many things, that's what I love about this sport.

To be fair, it was difficult for the routesetters because the wall in Vail is not great and they did a very good job in both semis and finals. But still I wanna shout out to all routesetters to try to set more diverse in the future in all rounds and especially also in Qualifiers, I don't think the randomness that some Qualification rounds had are good for this sport. there shouldn't be only crimpy boulders nor only volume boulders nor only slabby ones.. lately holds have fallen out of favor and huge volumes that look cool have taken over, but a mix of both of them would be the best in my opinion.

The style of a lot of boulders has nothing to do with rock climbing anymore, that's a fact, whether you think it's good or bad is a matter of opinion. In my opinion some funky boulders are definitely fun, but I don't think we should forget the origins of this sport! Peace!"

 
 
Google Earth presents Yosemite  Facebook
 

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Alex Puccio  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who was #4 in Vail, has done Super kind traverse 8A+ in RMNP. "Suppose to be a rest day again. Really sore from the WC on Saturday but went to show friends around and thought why not. It's a bit of a silly boulder but at least it's real rock!!!"

Skipping a rest day the following day also she continued to do Sun Storm 8A in Wild Basin, (c) Jon Cardwell. "Off again tomorrow for another day outside, loving it!!!"

 
 
Hörst: How to climb with kids  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva has presented a great article with the Hörst family where Eric, who is a famous trainer and auther, explains how they climb as a family and what is most important.

"Anyhow, as a parent to two youth climbers I’ve encouraged my boys to play multiple sports. Currently, they both play high school football (August through November), dabble with skiing, train for climbing in the winter, and then climb outside as much as possible from March through July. Via this approach, Cam and Jon have become elite climbers (both regularly climb 5.14a), while also playing a team sport with their high school friends. Most important, they’ve remained injury free and extremely passionate about both sports and the training required for each!"

 
 
We have ordered more server capacity  (3) Facebook
 

Lately, the response time surfing on 8a has been rather slow. We have asked our server provider to increase the capacity so that problem should be solved soon.

 
 
European Youth Cup in Austria  Facebook
 

98: Sasha Lehmann SUI - Joanne Brinkmann SUI
00: Filip Schenk ITA - Laura Rogara ITA
02: Thomas Podolan AUT - Nika Potova UKR
Complete results

Sasha was the only one to top all routes and also Nika was superior. Laura was followed by a total of eight girls from Austria and Slovenia. These two countries have dominated the scene for some years but in 2017, Slovenia has dropped significantly and Austria is just one of the best nations. Italy is the country who has had the best progress in 2017.

 
 
Highlights from Vail  Facebook
 

 
 
Boulder WC after 5 out of 7 events, counting all but one  (1) Facebook
 

1. Alexsey Rubtsov 300 - Shauna Coxsey 380
2. Jongwon Chon 298 - Janja Garnbret 327
3. Keita Watabe 285 - Miho Nonaka 260
4. Tomoa Narasaki 277 - Akiyo Noguchi 251
5. Kokoro Fujii 225 - Petra Klingler 188
Complete results

As Janja is not listed to compete in the next event in India, which takes place just one week before the Euro Championship in Italy 30/6, Shauna only needs to be #9 in one of the two last events to secure the overall title again in 2017. Among the boys, all the Top-5 have good chances to win overall.

What's amazing is that Japan has six males in the Top-9 ranking. It's interesting that it's the same males in the Top-5, besides that Watabee has been added. Among the ranked 6-13 last year, all but Jernej Kruder and Jan Hojer have dropped out of Top-20 in 2017.

 
 
Boulder WC in Vail - Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

 
 
8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

 
 
Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

 
 
9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

 
 
9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

 
 
Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

 
 
Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

 
 
Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).


Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

 
 
9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook
 

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

 
 
The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

 
 
Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

 
 
8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

 
 
8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook
 

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

 
 
8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

 
 
8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

 
 
8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

 
 
8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

 
 
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

 
 
Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

 
 
8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

 
 
First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

 
 
Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook
 

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

 
 
Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

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