News   Numbers   Year
The world's first W16 drytooling route  Facebook

Megos & Hayes won Moonboard Masters  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureToday climbing history was written by Moonboard Masters where five teams competed on a live-streaming simultaneously in Sheffield, Barcelona, New York and Osaka *2. The invited set ten new problems and you did get 200 points, + 20 bonus points for a flash, for a top to the 18th row on the board. Reaching and controlling a hold on row #10 gave 100 point and row #15 150 points etc. The maximum score was 2 200. Video

1. Alex Megos/Margo Hayes 1 920 points
2. Jongwon Chon/Miho Nonaka 1 730
3. Tomoa Narasaki/Akiyo Noguchi 1 700
4. Rustam Gelmanov/Katja Kadic 1 370
5. Daniel Woods/Kyra Condie 1 240

Chris Sharma doing an 8c+/9a  (1) Facebook

Dan Turner doing Voyager sit 8B+  (2) Facebook

Chile's sport climbing history  Facebook

Documental Las Chilcas - La historia jamás contada from rocanbolt on Vimeo.

Gran Canaria bouldering in Mogan  Facebook

9a/+ and 8c+ by Anak Verhoeven in Santa Linya  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven, #3 in the World Cup 2017 and who just established the very first female 9a+ FA, reports on Instagram that she has done Ciudad de Dios in Santa Linya which is 9a/+ in the topo. (All ten entries in the 8a data base selected 9a.) (c) Monika Vetinka

During the same day, the Belgian also did La Fabela 8c+ which in practice is an easier version of Ciudad de Dios. Based these two ascents, the 21-year-old has been moved up to #6 on the 8a Sport climber of the year list.

Fontainebleau in the 1940s  Facebook

La Rambla 9a+ by Seb Bouin  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin, who previously has done some 30 routes 9a and harder, reports on Facebookthat he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. (c) Tillby Vattard

"This route is a piece of climbing history. For me it's a revenge to do it in 9 goes this year, because I injured my back 2 years ago on this route. In fact, I injured a herniated disc on the crux during a working session. It was really bad, but now it's really finish because I take my revenge. It's time to close french projects."

45 sec and different moves are needed for maximum power gain  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers seems to think that doing campus moves as well as doing 10 second dead hangs are the best ways to get more power. Interestingly, Björn Alber suggest that the real power gain mainly comes through muscle growth doing different type of exercises, during 45-60 seconds, instead of just hanging in one finger position. This will also reduce the risk for injury.

As the video suggest some exercises hard to do in your gym, here are some climbing moves that Alber thinks also could be done. Start with warming up, followed up with 2 second recruitment moves and 10 second contact strength exercises. Finish of with 45 seconds sequences doing some 8 - 12 moves per hand. Rest as long as you you need to maintain full power. Remember, this should only be done by the advanced climbers and a program should take 45 - 90 minutes and it should involve as many different moves and strengths as possible.

The easiest way is to use a system board or hit strips as you want to repeat the same type of moves, challenging; Open-crimp, Open-hand and Sloopers doing also different types of Pinches, Underclings, Gaston and Cross-over moves etc. In practice this means that you challenge different types of muscles until failure. Once you need longer than 5 minutes rest, although going for different types of moves, you should finish your session.

Start slowly and take a rest day after a hard session. After some weeks you will feel stronger due to muscle growth in all of your forearm muscles.

8A+ again by Alex Puccio  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her 11th 8A+ the last 12 months, Brown smurf in Hueco Tanks and she aims for more. (c) Sarah Filler

"Another fitness boulder. Skin will be god for the project soon. Right Martini into the end REALLY small holds of Esperanza. Just as fun as right Martini. slightly harder moves at the end then Right Martini, but shorter."

In total, the runner up in the World Champion in 2014 has done 75 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ which is way more than any other female, in spite having had several bad injuries.

Ground breaking ascents 2017?  (4) Facebook

Synergy muscle growth for maximum power!  Facebook

Björn Alber, aka Dr 8a, has put together a instructive video how to get stronger gripping power including both the theory and practical exercises. The new thing is a greater focus on muscle growth, through more and longer repetitions, and also to combine several new and normal maximum power exercises, aiming to get synergy and injury free forearm muscles. His son Ymer has successfully followed the program for some years.

Tonfa 8B | Frankenjura | Germany  Facebook

Tonfa 8B | Frankenjura | Germany from 45degrees on Vimeo.

Rappel down your project  Facebook

Most climbers train mainly indoors and the goal is to do harder routes/boulders and often we have specific projects in mind. During the winter season, one good motivation booster is actually just to go out and rappel down the projects.

To go down from above with a clear mind not being tired both physically and mentally could possibly open up for some new beta or thoughts. This might explain why the guys bolting routes end up with personal best on the routes that he/she did equip. Rappelling down could also be considered as visualization but in reality.

Active Visualization helped Ondra doing Silence 9c  Facebook

Climbing has presented an interesting interview with Adam Ondra in regards how he used visualization for doing Silence 9c.

"There are three ways to do visualization, all performed while lying on a bed or mat: You can stay still and only do everything in your head. You can move your hands and feet slightly while you picture the moves. Or you can ask someone to “create” crucial holds and footholds. So, if there is a dyno to a jug, you get your body into position, guide your friend to create the jug exactly where it would be on the wall, and then go for it. I am using all three techniques."

West Virginia's DWS Competition  (1) Facebook

Bananabreadtour Rocklands Part II  Facebook

Bananabreadtour Rocklands Part II from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

Patxi Usobiaga (37) living legend training machine  Facebook

8C by Florian Schmalzl  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch reported last week on his Instagram about Florian Schmalzl:

"Today he climbed both of Klem Loskots masterpieces "Bügeleisen" (8B+) and "Emotional Landscapes" (8C) in Maltatal on the same day!"

Florian is one of the few remaining hot shots climbing under the radar with no active social media. He is 26 years old and has been climbing for ten years and he has done a couple of 8B+'s before.

Junior of 2017 - Draft  Facebook

1. Janja Garnbret
2. Ashima Shiraishi
3. Margo Hayes
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata
5. Sam Avezou
6. Claire Buhrfeind
7. Laura Rogara
8. Filip Schenk
9. Brooke Rabotou
10. Loic Zehani, Moritz Welt, Meichi Narasaki, William Bosi, Kai Lightner, Alberto Lopez, Laura Stöckler, Sandra Lettner, Elena Kravsovskaia, Pietro Biagini, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Natsuki Tanii, Naile Meignan,
Semen Ovchinnikov, Rudolfh Ruana, Baptiste Ometz, Mikel Asina, Shuta Tanaka, Lara Neumeier, Ai Mori, Colin Duffy, Rei Kawamata, Moritz Perwitzschky, Keita Dohi, Nico Ferlitsch, Jan Vopat, Futaba Ito, David Naude, Philipp Gaßner, Pablo Hammack, Jakob Kronberger, Leo Skinner, Zach Galla, Marketa Janosova, Ema Seliškar, Clay Gordon, Maya Madere

First 9a in Israel and an 8c+ flash by Adam Ondra  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made a visit to Israel and the Nezer cave where he did eight routes including the FA of Climb free 9a and a flash of Yala factor 8c+. "Amazing project from Ofer on the right side of the cave. He was so close to make FA on this trip, thanks Ofer for letting me try it! One of the best in the cave."

20 one arm-pull-ups by Jongwon Chon  Facebook

Is this a new world record set by the Boulder World Cup winner 2017?

8th 9a by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook

Loic Zehani has done his 8th 9a, Ma faute à toi in Cevennes where he also did his first two years ago. "I redpointed the route Wednesday after the school (the 2 hours of drive) and after a good fight. I almost fallen at the top. It was a good moment with the principal bolter of the cave, Jean Marc Oberli. Now he is the most Frenchman of the swiss man... We must thank him for opening all these nice routes.

Hukkataival in Squamish  Facebook

9a+ in Flatanger by Piotr Schab  Facebook

8A+ in an hour by Alex Puccio  (7) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has set some kind of record by taking down Le Retour de Goupil 8A+ in Hueco Tanks in just an hour. In total, she has done 21 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ the last year which also is a female record. In the 8a rankinggme she is #21 and she is actually almost 1 000 points ahead in the female ranking game. (c) Sarah Filler

La Sportiva Legends Only Highlights  (1) Facebook

Sport Climber of the year 2017 - Draft  (22) Facebook

Here is a quick draft for Climber of 2017. As all previous years, we give more credit to the ones doing many ascents in different disciplines. Please comment to update the list.

1. Adam Ondra
2. Janja Garnbret
3. Alex Megos
4. Stefano Ghisolfi
5. Alex Puccio
6. Anak Verhoeven
7. Jan Hojer
8. Alexey Rubtsov
9. Angela Eiter
10. Margo Hayes, Tomoa Narasaki, James Webb, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi, Jongwon Chon, Jernej Kruder, Jakob Schubert, Romain Desgranges, Laura Rogara, Keita Watabe, Christof Rauch, Akiyo Noguchi, Stasa Gejo, Moho Nonaka, Jain Kim, Nalle Hukkataival, Charles Alber, Kokoro Fujii, Claire Buhrfeind, Domen Skofic, Mina Markovic, Jessica Pilz, Julia Chanouride, Molly Thompson-Smith, Keiichiro Korenaga, Chris Sharma, Ryuichi Murai, Alberto Rocasolano, Piotr Schab, Paul Robinson, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Daisuke Ichimiya, Lara Neumeier, Karoline Sinnhuber, Nina Williams, Katherine Choong, Jorge Verhoeven, David Graham, Daniel Woods, Jonathan Siegrist, Anna Stöhr, Sasha Digiulian, Dani Andrada, Nina Caprez, Mikaela Kiersch, Sean McColl, Melissa Le Neve, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Giuliano Cameroni, Seb Bouin, Steve McClure, Gabri Moroni, Mathieu Bouyoud, Patxi Usobiaga, David Firnenburg, Toby Saxton, Daniel Fuertes,

To bolt or not to be 8b+ by Nina Caprez  Facebook

Gems in Fontainebleau  (1) Facebook

A Morning at Coquibus Longs Vaux, Fontainebleau. from David Mason on Vimeo.

One more 8c+ by Claire Buhrfeind in RRG  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClaire Buhrfeind reports on Instagram: "Southern Smoke, 14c. The Red River pump is real!! Super excited to send this one today. Time for some more ice cream." (c) Jerome Mowat

Sunny November in Ticino  Facebook

Sunny November in Ticino 2017 from Heiko Queitsch on Vimeo.

Warm during winter - Clip hole in your pocket!  Facebook

The winter is approaching creating often better conditions. Climbing on a sunny wall is nice even in zero degrees. When there is no sun or windy, bouldering works fine through warming up exercises and a big jacket. Here are some tips how to be able to also climb longer routes when it is almost freezing and no sun, beside wearing warm clothing.

1. (Vertic) sleeves on forehand
2. Heater in chalk bag
3. Holes in pockets to place hand on stomach
4. Gloves with open fingers
5. Socks in bigger shoes
6. Shoes inside the jacket

Moon Pig - Episode 2 - Meagan Martin VS Brooke Raboutou  Facebook

Lucifer 8c+ by Claire Buhrfeind (19)  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClaire Buhrfeind reports on Instagram that she has done Lucider 8c+ and Omaha Beach 8b+ in Red River Gorge on the same day. The 19 year old won all the three disciplines at the Youth World Championship and she is with 8.90, the fastest female climber performing at a high level in Lead and Bouldering. In other words, she is one of the candidates for a medal in Tokyo. (c) Matty Hong

Silence 9c Teaser  Facebook

Radar 7A+  Facebook

Radar 7A+ from George Papageorgiou on Vimeo.

Iker Pou (40) 8c+ FA in Margalef  (3) Facebook

Iker Pou, one of the best rock climbers in the world the last 20 years, specializing in MP's, has done the FA of Pueblo Pequeno infernio grande 8c+ in Margalef.

Coxsey & Crane in California  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey and Leah Crane have become well known as inseparable training buddies, the grueling hours spent down at the gym, hanging on the fingerboard or lifting weights have become interspersed with lighthearted yogabatics, 360 degree rotation challenges on the wall and of course plenty of giggling!

“When you train so intensely, having a training partner makes all the difference. There are good times and hard times, down times and psyched times... it's always better with a training buddy.” Leah Crane & Shauna Coxsey

Both Shauna and Leah come from non-climbing families, yet started indoors around the age of four. Shauna, originally from Runcorn and Leah from Nottingham would compete in local and national comps before gaining a place on the Junior British team at around the age of twelve. They have been climbing together on and off for the last fifteen years, from the early days of competing at junior national finals, GB trips to Fontainebleau and now to full times training and competing to-gether. Shauna is 2016 & 2017 world IFSC Boulder World Cup Champion and is also the first British women to climb 8B & 8B+. Leah has been competing on and off for many years and with a couple of national titles under her belt she committed to a full Boulder World Cup session last year, finishing 11th overall and this year 25th overall.

Before the Boulder World Cups began this year the pair headed across the pond to California for a two week training camp, visit to muscle beach and of course Joshua Tree. Alongside this, they also managed to fit in a trip to 5.10 HQ where they provided feedback on the ideal competition shoe. 5.10 have been working closely with Shauna to design the perfect competition shoe. The new Anasazi VCS Pro will be introduced in spring 2018. The ‘Pro’ model will have a Mi6 rubber toe patch, improved heel tension for better fit and performance and a breathable, padded mesh tongue.

9a by Stefano Carnati (19)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati, who last year did four 9a's and Goldrake 9a+, has done his first 9a in 2017, Perfect man 2.0 in Albenga. "This year I had school exams in June and I dedicate a lot of time into studying." (c) Pietro Biagini

"Props to Andrea Gallo for finding this line and Matteo for bolting and climbing it! Very nice route with good and powerful moves starting with a roof and finishing with a very overhanging wall! Took me a while to figure out all the moves. Came back today to finish it and found out a hold I used for resting and clipping broke off. Had to change beta and fortunately it worked! Felt slightly easier than 9a with the new betas. In my opinion could be 8c+9a."

Tesio and Avezou Euro Youth Champs in Combined  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGergia Tesio and Sam Avezou won the European Youth A Combined Championships. The fastest time out of the, excluding the Speed specialists, got Sam with 7.77. The competition was held in Saint Etienne and a total of 41 participants tried the three disciplines. Complete results © FASI Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana

Switzerland Bouldering 2017  Facebook

Vita Da Capo • Switzerland 2017 from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

Chong Pli a compliment to Railay  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChong Pli, with some 70 routes in between 5 to 8, is located some 10 km from Ao'nang, where you take the boat to Railay. "As this crag “Chong Pli” is fairly recent, polish on the routes is not an issue. We have opened up a humble bungalow resort with restaurant at the base of this crag. We climb here and take the longtailboat on days when we want to climb on Tonsai/Railay."

Rocklands  Facebook

Bananabreadtour Rocklands Part II from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

8A+ by Lucy Humphreys  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLucy Humphreys has done her first 8A+, Diaphanous sea in Hueco Tanks. She has previously done four 8A's out of which three last year. Here is the video.

"I can't believe it! Two weeks ago I could hardly walk properly, and today, I ticked a climb from my life list, gimpy ankle and all! Couldn't be more stoked to return to Hueco healthy to see what I can put down.

I sprained my ankle four weeks before my trip, but we had already booked everything, so I decided to go anyways! The injury meant that I wasn't able to heel hook, toe hook, knee bar, or drop knee properly, which is not an easy task in Hueco. However, the biggest challenge was that I wasn't able to fall on it at all! I had to be extremely careful, and either be sure that I could do a boulder, or sort of eject from the problem onto my back! It was pretty frustrating at first, but as the trip went on I got used to it.

Shauna Coxsey wins La Sportiva Legends Only  (1) Facebook

The seventh edition of the La Sportiva Legends Only was as always a nice show. Good job by the route setters, the athletes and the commentators. On the other hand it lasted over three hours and there were a lot of waiting to see the action. Some girls were complaining about all the shoulder moves that is a bit risky from a injury point of view.

The thing the show missed was the competition feeling and the commentators did not know who won and we had to wait few minutes to get the winner, even if it actually had been decided once Shauna had secured her bonus.

1. Shauna Coxsey 3T3 5b6
2. Stasa Gejo 3T5 5b6
3. Petra Klingler 2T5 5b8
4. Fanny Gibert 2T5 4b5
5. Melissa LeNeve 1T1 4b5
6. Katja Kadic 1T2 4b8

Mental training with Megos and Moffatt  Facebook

La Sportiva Legends Only Build Up Show  Facebook

Fingerschinder pi r² are irresistible  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBeing a fan of fingerboard training for many years, I am now also a fan of Fingerschinder and that goes for the whole family. We have had regular gymnastic rings in our living roof under our staircase for a year and my kids are hanging there regularly. Once we put up the Fingerschinder, we have all found new exercises.

Sure my Zlagboard is better but often it is hard to get started. Rings are like irresistible so you get the warming up for free and this is actually the best thing of them. Then it is just to start experimenting. I just might bring them along out to the rock as you can do the recruitment training without destroying the skin.

Fingerschinder has great chances to become a great success but they need your help at Kickstarter

9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook

Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook

8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook

Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).

Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"


Next Page ->