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8c+ by Matthew Zane on a record hectic day  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatthew Zane has done his first 8c+, Livin AstroGlide in Rumney and as he commented, "Makes the 3am start before class worth it." We followed up and got an amazing dedication story culmination after some 50 days, including five hours driving/studying.

"I got up at 3am, left about 3:15, stopped in Rumney at the local coffee shop, then 25 min approach up to the cliff. After I sent on my second try at 8pm I supported my buddy Michael on his 8a project and he absolutely crushed it! Then I cruised 2.5 hours back to Portland for a nursing exam in older adult health, than celebrated with ice cream and cookies!

Normally I do the drive solo. I'll listen to podcasts for school and books on tape to help me study, so it works out well. That's my most productive study time, haha. I'm all about the last minute study cram. Its worked so far, so I'm not gonna change anything yet.

My time schedule is super heinous. I'm in a full time accelerated nursing program, so I'm currently taking 20 credits this fall, and work about 10-20 hours a week at the Salt Pump Climbing gym as the head coach--which leaves basically no time for training. I get up most mornings at 5:30 to do homework and squeeze in any training I can before school--mostly just campusing and bouldering, nothing structured."

 
 
8C FA by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has done his 14th 8C by the FA of The Outher Limits in Donner Summit. "Yesssss! What a stunning line.. 17 moves of power endurance climbing lands you at the headwall at around 18ft. After a 7B+ lip encounter you tackle another 20 feet of moderate climbing to the top. Feels good to finish this one off. Absolutely loving Tahoe!" In the 8a ranking game, also including one 8C+ he is back on top again. (c) From his Insta.

 
 
Sportmanship and Fairness must be guaranteed by IFSC  Facebook
 

Reino Horak, former national coach for Sweden and now for Norway, has written an open letter to IFSC which he says sums up the overall opinion of both athletes, coaches and even some of the officials. Fairness of the athletes was lacking.

"In the end, Xiamen turned out to be a good World Cup but for many athletes it was an anti-climactic event and IFSC needs to guarantee and work out guidelines so this won't happen again, especially with Tokyo 2020 ahead. Outdoor venues need to have a better plan for bad weather meaning that more protection on the sides as well as the top is essential.

If anyhow a similar situation occurs, IFSC needs to assure the athletes that sportmanship and fairness are their highest priority. Some male climbers did not get a fair chance due to changing conditions in the semi and some female were not allowed to climb at all after the qualification.

Imagine training hard and invest time and money to fly to Xiamen. In the female qualification you end #14 but due to a cancelled semifinal, after eight starters, you were not allowed to go for your final onsight challenge.

Instead, you watch a final with 13 girls who all topped both qualification routes, followed by a final with 8 males who all did an earlier full semifinal. If all 26 female participating athletes had created the final, which would not have made the final take much longer time, everyone would have been pleased including the spectators.

 
 
Deulin & Jaubert win in Xiamen and overall  Facebook
 

Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubertwon the Xiamen Speed World Cup and got also the overall title. Reza Alipourshenazandirfar was second although he only competed in five events and as a matter of a fact, another three guys in the Top-10 overall did also skip at least two comps. It seems only seven six guys competed in all seven events. Among the female, ten girls competed in all events. Noteworthy is that Jan Hojer sat a personal best with 7.28. The Japanese successful Lead climbers did have to skip Speed due to the changes in the schedule. Complete results

 
 
Lead World Cup with Kranj remaining  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Romain Desgranges 440 - Janja Garnbret 565
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 362 - Jain Kim 445
3. Keiichiro Korenaga 339 - Anak Verhoeven 404
4. Domen Skofic 270 - Jessica Pilz 330
5. Marchello Bombardi 246 - Julia Chanourdie 307
Complete results. Ashima Shiraishi is #7 although having just competedin the last four events. (C) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing


Janja Garnbret has already secured the overall title again and she has broken the total combined point score in 2017 with a big margin. Beside winning five Lead events, she has also won three boulder.s Out of all the 26 World Cups and World Championships she has participated in, she has won 50 %. Jain Kim has won 27 Lead WC's and one World Championship. What has been amazing to see is that she has changed her style climbing faster and more dynamic this year.

If Stefani Ghisolfi wins the last event in Kranj, Romain Desgranges need to be #15 to secure the overall title. Interesting to see that only four of the guys being Top-10 in 2016 are Top-10 also in 2017. In the National Team ranking, France is ahead of Japan and Slovenia. The country that has a negative trend is Austria who still is #4 in the nations ranking.

 
 
Korenaga and Verhoeven win in Xiamen  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Veroeven, who won the World games as well as the Euro Championship, got her first WC Lead victory in 2017 by topping out with ease. Looking confident as ever, Janja Garnbret mistimed a jump as she climb pretty fast, in order to beat Anak's time. (C) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Among the male, it was a total Asia domination with Keiichiro Korenaga getting his first Lead victory and he jumped to third overall. Tomoa Narasaki was runner up as last week in Wuijang. Due to schedule changes he had not time to do the Speed qualification but at this point, he seems to be well ahead of the others on their way to Tokyo 2020.

1. Keiichiro Korenaga JPN - Anak Verhoeven BEL
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Ashima Shiraishi
3. YuFei Pan CHI - Janja Garnbret SLO
4. Jongwon Chon KOR - Jessica Pilz AUT
5. Fedir Samoilov UKR - Mina Markovic SLO
Complete results

Noteworthy is that it YuFei Pan was #13 in the Youth A World Championship in Innsbruck where he also got 7.95 in Speed, meaning he is also a contender for the Olympics. Among the female, ranked 3 to 5th were ranked based on time. It must also be mentioned that the live-streaming had big problems but luckily towards the end of both finals, everything worked out great.

 
 
Lead Finals Xiamen  Facebook
 

 
 
Total Asia domination in a semi with big problems  (1) Facebook
 

The female semifinal was cancelled after eight climbers and instead all the 13 double tops from the qualifications will compete in the final tonight. It should also be mentioned that originally the plan was to run the semi the day before but rain made them postpone it.

Among the males, the Boulder WC winner Jongwon Chon got an early lead starting second getting to the third last hold, which made the commentator say. "We will definately see some tops. Just before they said, "The conditions are excellent"

Later it started to rain and the conditions deteriorated. In the end several breaks were needed and at the end a longer 45 min break was needed as the holds started to get wet. The guys competing just before the break in pouring rain, including Domen Skofic, did not have a chance it seemed. After the break, the conditions seemed better but nevertheless Romain Desgranges did a technical mistake and was #22. As Stefano Ghisolfi made it comfortably to the final the overall title became much more open.

#2 in the semifinal was the runner up in the Bouldering WC 2017, Tomoa Narasaki, who also was second in the last Lead WC. Overall, Ghisolfi is the only Western European in the final together with one guy from Ukrane and six Asians. In fact, among the Top-12, there were nine Asians and one from Italy, France and Ukraine respectively. Complete results

 
 
8C/+ FA by Adam Ondra  (4) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra, who made a 8C FA four days ago, has done one more Vrtule in Holstejn. "8C/C+ brutally powerful, 4 days". Picture and video on his Instagram The next day he moved to Moravský kras where he did the FA of Pučmeloun 8B+.

In total, the 24 year old has now done 42 boulders 8B+ to 8C+, out of which 16 FAs. In the 8a ranking game, Adam is #7 and he needs one more 8C to be #1.

Vrtule 8C/C+ from Adam Ondra on Vimeo.

 
 
Big problems in Xiamen  Facebook
 

Heavy rain stopped the female semifinal as some of the holds were wet. The officials later decided to cancel the semifinal and let all the 13 female who topped the both qualification routes go directly to the final. The males kept on struggling...

Even bigger problems in Speed as the stopwatch did not work properly. The plan is to restart it after the semifinal.

 
 
Total Japanese male domination in Xiamen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapanese males got five guys in the Top-8 in the qualification in the Lead World up in Xiamen. Among the Top-9, seven guys from Asia! Among the females, we saw 13 double tops. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing. Complete results.

Kokoro Fujii on the picture, who won the first Boulder Cup in 2017, won the qualification ahead of Tomoa Narasaki and Yoshiyuki Ogata, all from Japan. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Cicuit Climbing

 
 
Xiamen semi postponed to Sunday  Facebook
 

Due to rain and strong wind, the semi final in Xiamen has been postponed to Sunday 12.30 GMT+8, 06.30 Euro time. Live streaming link. During the qualification, it was almost a storm and some climbers actually said it made it harder to climb.

The Speed qualification will take place indoors just before the Lead semifinal. The Lead final will start 18.50 GMT+8, 12.50 Euro time.

 
 
REEL ROCK 12 – Official Trailer  Facebook
 

 
 
Beautiful 7c+ in Blue Mountains  Facebook
 


RETURNITY ∞ from Radest Productions on Vimeo.

 
 
How volumes are made  Facebook
 

 
 
Narasaki sets new standards in Combined  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomoa Narasaki, #2 in the Bouldering World Cup, has started his preparation towards the Olympics and with very limited training he set new standards in Wuijang last weekend. He was #2 in Lead and got 7.85 in Speed. This weekend he will compete in the two disciplines again in Xiamen. (c) Eddie Fowke

"I have trained Speed three times. I do endurance training every winter. My target of World Cup in Wuijang was to reach the final. The final route was simple and powerful, so it was good for me and I had no pressure. I was surprised with my results and it made me excited to train lead. I would like to get first place as soon as possible."

 
 
Ondra and Ghisolfi battles in Arco  Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8c+ by Megos who will do more World Cups  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos continues his rampage and has done another two 8c+, Livin' Astro and LivinAstro Glide in Rumney. During the last two months he has now done eight routes 8c+ to 9a+ as well taking the silver in the Euro Bouldering Championship and finished #8 in Arco Lead WC, where he won the semifinal.

What about stepping it up and going to Flatanger and Oliana and what about doing more WC Comps and the Olympics?
I'm not planning on going to Flatanger any time soon.
I'd like to go to Oliana though at some point since I haven't been there at all till now. That won't happen till next year though. Too much going on at the moment.

Regarding the Olympics, that's still way too far away to make any decision and I haven't done enough comps yet to see if that's something I could enjoy doing again. So for next year my plan is to do as many WC's as I can to see I could imagine completing seriously again. I won't be able to do all the circuit because of other projects I've got too next year but I hope I'll be able to fit the majority of the WC's close by into my schedule.

Concerning the Olympics I'm also not sure about the format yet. I haven't trained or done the Speed route yet and at the moment I'm more focused on lead and bouldering, although I do work on my general climbing speed though with my two trainers Patrick and Dicki from the Kraftfactory because we think it's something that will improve my climbing in general. And maybe that will result in a few speed climbing trainings I'll do at some point. As for now I'm not yet in the position to make a properly thought through decision.

 
 
Live-streaming Moon Board Masters 9/12  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"The North Face MoonBoard Masters will take place simultaneously from four iconic MoonBoard locations around the world and streamed live online. With teamwork at its forefront, the competition will pitch five famous duos against each other in a MoonBoard battle of strength and skill."

THE TEAMS:
D Woods & K Condie: The Cliffs - New York City, USA
A Megos & M Hayes: The Foundry - Sheffield, UK.
R Gelmanov & K Kadic: Sharma Climbing - Barcelona
J Chon & M Nonaka: Crux Climbing Gym - Japan
T Narasaki & A Noguchi: Crux Climbing Gym - Japan

The competition format is not set yet but what we know is that soon they will add points to their log-books and it will be identical to the 8a scoring system.


Moon Board Masters

 
 
Wujiang Lead WC Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Risk of closure of Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFour days ago, an article in regards Santa Linya was published in a Spanish newspaper. Some archaeologists say that they have found new things in the cave and they want to ban climbers from climbing.

Although no climbers have been contacted, a petition have been set up asking climbers to sign up.

 
 
Antonator - 8B - Philipp Lennartz  Facebook
 

 
 
Petzl instruction for cross over belaying  Facebook
 

Petzl comes with more safety instructions for belaying. Can anybody explain why you are not allowed to give out slack and take in with the same method?

 
 
9a+ 3rd go for Alex Megos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos reports on Facbook with a picture from Melissa Le Neve that he has done Jaws II 9a+ in Rumney. It was originally 8c but then a hold broke and Vasya Vorotnikov made the FA in 2007 after 35 sessions. Megos did the sixth ascent out of which 9a also have been suggested.

"Wow! That went a bit faster than expected! I checked it out twice and didn't really find any beta that seemed to work although I tried about 5 different possibilities."

 
 
Coxsey goes for Tokyo 2020  Facebook
 

Climb Magazine has made an interview with Shauna Coxsey who has started to train Lead and will try out the Kranj World Cup as a preparation for the Olympic qualifications.

 
 
Nice safety instructions with misleading picture  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetzl has put together some nice guidelines how to spot and belay in the beginning of a route. Strangely the rightmost picture does not at all correspond to what is written.

"The belayer must be close enough to the wall to minimize the amount of rope between him/her and the climber."

It should be mentioned that there is another picture included that shows that you should stand to the side. What could also be mentioned is that a light climber should stand leaning a bit backwards in order to better control the fall of a heavier climber especially in the beginning.

 
 
First 9a by Alfredo Webber (48)  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndrea Gennari Daneri from Pareti Magazine reports that Alfredo Webber has done his first 9a, Thunder Ribes in Arco. Last year the 159 cm tall did his first 8c+ and he commented. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi

"I’m close to 50 years old and now I work full time in a quarry, five days a week, 8 hrs a day. I wake up at 7am, breakfast, then 20 kms drive to the quarry. Back home at 6pm. Two days a week I have training on my wall at home. It’s a 1h 30’ work, basically long sequences, with intervals of some harder moves; then some hangs on crimps. When I’m projecting something hard for Sunday I have to rest on Friday and Saturday, otherwise I get weak. I’m less powerful than 20 years ago, but now I know myself better and I manage better my energies."

 
 
Monkey style session by barefoot Charles Alber  Facebook
 

 
 
8A+ by Caroline Sinno again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Sinno, who is the owner of Crimp Oil, has done her second 8A+ in 2017, Les feux d'Azeroth in Branson.

"I needed several sessions over the years because the crack is often wet. Actually I didn't need that many when the crack was in condition and when the crack wasn't in conditions I still had a good time climbing in the other areas in Valais."

 
 
Quadruple-amputee climbs Mount Kilimanjaro  Facebook
 

 
 
New 8C by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 


Drift 8C from Adam Ondra on Vimeo.

 
 
Garnbret and Ghisolfi creating the perfect show topping the final  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge Picture1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
2. Jain Kim KOR - Tomoa Narasaki JPN
3. Julia Chanourdie FRA - Hanwool Kim KOR
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Janja Garnbret was superior in the Lead World Cup in Wuijang, topping all four routes in great style. Also Stefano Ghisolfi won each round as well as topping the final route creating the perfect show in the final. Although there are two events left, Janja has already secured the overall victory again having won five of the six WCs in 2017.

It should be mentioned that for the first time in 2017, the live streaming included a clock and the six minute rule did not create any big problem. The biggest sensation was that Tomoa Narasaki, #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2017, was runner up after Ghisolfi in his first Lead WC in three years. Add to that his 7.85 in the Speed qualification and he is the biggest favorite for the gold in Tokyo 2020.

 
 
WC overall counting five out of six WCs  Facebook
 

1. Janja Garnbret 500 - Romain Desgranges 385
2. Jain Kim 390 - Stefano Ghisolfi 319
3. Anak Verhoeven 304 - Domen Skofic 252
4. Jessica Pilz 276 - Keiichiro Korenaga 229
5. Julia Chanourdie 273 - Marcello Bombardi 228
Complete results

Janja Garnbret has secured the overall victory in practice although two events remain. It is good enough to be #13 in one event even if Jain wins the two last events. Among the males, Stefano almost needs to win both the last two events if not Romain Desgranges completely fail in these two comps. Interesting to see that Jakob Schubert is #7 having only participated in two out of six comps.

 
 
Best ever Lead WC semifinal for Asia  (10) Facebook
 

The biggest sensations in the semifinal in Wujiang were that the #1 and #2 in the Bouldering World Cup, Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki made it to the finals as #5 and #6. When they both last tried a Lead WC in 2014 and 2013, they ended #23 and #24. In fact, another three Asians qualified to the Top-8 semifinal which might be the first indicating that the Asians will take over the show also in Lead.

Add to that is Narasaki's 7.85 in the Speed qualifications although he has just tried it out for a couple sessions during some months.

Among the female, no big surprises and we saw Janja Garnbret topping out in a good style followed by Anak Verhoeven as normally, followed by Jain Kim and Akiyo Noguchi. Complete results The Live-streaming from the final starts 18.50 GMT+8, which means 12.50 European time.

 
 
Semifinal Replay  Facebook
 

 
 
Fontainebleau in Västervik  Facebook
 


Raindance from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

 
 
8B+ (C) by Alexey Rubtsov  Facebook
 

Alexey Rubtsov has done the first repeat of Triangular Face 8C (B+) in Triangular Lake. "I quickly realized that the boulder is my style, and after several hours of work, I managed to make the second ascent! I think that climbing 8C in one day is too difficult, so I think grade is 8B+."

Triangular Face 8B+ boulder from Veronika on Vimeo.

 
 
Koyamada vs Ondra on Action Directe  Facebook
 

Can anybody come up with an explanation why the much shorter who need to jump higher do a much more dramatic pendulum swing in the first dyno?

 
 
9a and 8c+ FAs by Matthias Schiestl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatthias Schiestl has done the FAs of Hias-Line 8c+ and Monkey Line 9a in Zillertal. (c) Flo Murning

I tried the 8c+ for 7 days since July. It was a very old project, super dirty and a lot of work to figure out the moves. The route starts with a hard boulder problem and it is also the same start as the 9a. The hardest part is the beginning of the route, 14 moves around 8b boulder, when you climb the 8c+ then you finish with a 8a+ route and the 9a you continue to the right with an 8A boulder and a 7c+ route at the end.

 
 
First 9a+ by Gonzalo Larrocha  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGonzalo Larrocha has done the first repeat of Daniel Fuertes' No Pain No Game 9a+ in Rodellar. It is 40 meters long out of which 30 meters goes in a roof. He has tried it several years and says that it is one of the best routes he has ever done. Previously the Spaniard has done five 9a's. (c) Manabu Yoneyama

 
 
Alex Megos crushes in Switzerland  (6) Facebook
 

During six days, without a rest day, Alex Megos did ten routes 8b+ and harder including three 9a's around Switzerland.

 
 
Hemetzberger does WoGü 8c MP  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBlack Diamond reports that Roland Hemetzberger has made the second repeat of WoGü 8c MP in Rätikon. It is considered the hardest multi-pitch in Europe; 8c, 8a, 8c, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+. It was equipped by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 and Adam Ondra did the FA in 2008 and later Edu Marin also did it.

Roland has previously done sport routes up to 9a+ and multi-pitches up to 8c+, Nirwana, which he down graded.

"This year I followed a straight plan and gave all my energy and effort to this route- and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained."

 
 
8b+ trad preplaced FA by Carlos Logroño (47) aka ‘Citro’  Facebook
 

Carlos Logroño has opened an old A2 roof in Vadiello calling it La fuerza de la Gravedad 8b+. The 47 year old, who recently has done both 8c and 8c+, started trying it two years ago but until this last season he really did not think it could be done. "The gear was pre-placed because the rock is not very solid. It is the strangest thing I have climbed in my whole life."

 
 
Kalymnos Climbing Festival 6-8/10  Facebook
 

 
 
8b FA by Maggie Odette (48)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaggie Odette has done the FA of Fight Club 8b in Logan Canyon. (c) Heidi Baxter

" It's a new link-up of The Big Brawl (8a+) into the Bulletproof Monk (8b+) finish. It adds a third boulder crux. The bolts for the finish were actually placed by Jeff Pederson when he put up the original line, he never bothered with that section and opted to exit to the left on Sportfest (7c) instead."

 
 
Warning for badly placed bolts  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureA climber in Göteborg Sweden, fell some six times moving rightwards above the last bolt on the lip. Each time the quick draw was dragged over the sharp rock as he landed under the roof. During the seventh fall the textile of the draw snapped and he fell another seven meters but was OK.

I have asked the local club to move the bolt downwards so such incidents can be avoided. It might be wise to sometimes check also the textile of your quick draws to see that they are not half broken. This should also be done on fixed quick draws that possibly could snap during the next fall. This summer the textile on a fixed quick draw broke in Stockholm.

 
 
Leonidio Climbing Festival 2-5/10  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture

 
 
Pirmin Bertle's 9a+ story from Chile  (7) Facebook
 


Le vent nous portera, 9a+, Socaire, Chile - Latin America's hardest route on 3600m from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Ziqquarat 8C by Gabri Moroni  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands, a special place...  Facebook
 


Rocklands, a special place....... from Mesmer Media on Vimeo.

 
 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

 
 
8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

 
 
Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

 
 
9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

 
 
9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

 
 
Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

 
 
Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

 
 
Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).


Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

 
 
9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook
 

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

 
 
The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

 
 
Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

 
 
8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

 
 
8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook
 

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

 
 
8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

 
 
8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

 
 
8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

 
 
8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

 
 
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

 
 
Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

 
 
8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

 
 
First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

 
 
Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook
 

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

 
 
Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

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