NEWS

Two young Spanish crushers: Jerome (16) & Héctor (11)

Jerome González is 16 year-old boy from Tenerife (Canary Islands) who has recently sent an 8c, Guayota, and an 8c+ called Multiorgasmo over there. He's been flying to the Iberian peninsula to climb a bit after the comps, on some bank weekends or during his Summer holidays but now he's in need of some sort of frequent flyer plan cause he's already done with all the hard routes in his island. Read more about him in the interview we've just done him for the Spanish site. Another even younger wonder kid is the one in Roby Bienvenuti's pic, the 11 year-old Héctor Bazán, who some few weeks ago sent his second 8b with Batuka in Margalef. 'El Talismá directo' in Savassona was his first when he was 10. His interview is being edited, so check the Spanish site at mid-week if you want to know more about this guy from Catalunya. However, we had a couple of questions already published in this piece of news, out of which we translate one for you: How much work did you need to send your second 8b? "First I tried the start of the route after sending the one next to it, 'Transilvania' (8a), and I understood that I could do it. I went to try it another weekend after but wasn't able to do it. The next weekend, I placed the quickdraws and fired it off at my next go. I needed around 8 tries."

IFSC has put in another three World Cup events in for 2014 and now there is 8 + 8 Lead and Boulder events out of which 4 + 3 in Europe (44 %). Previous years, nine WC's in Europe and 62 % was the lowest ever. Here is the 2014 calender including a lot of interesting travelling Boulder: 26/4 China, 3/5 Azerbaijan, 10/5 Switzerland, 16/5 Austria, 31/5 Canada, 5/6 USA 20/6 China - Lead & Boulder, 27/6 France - Boulder Lead: 12/7 France, 19/7 France, 1/8 Austria, 11/10 Korea, 18/10 China, 25/10 Japan, 15/11 Slovenia

Helicopter recording can be the future

During the last few years, we have seen a dramatic development when it comes to quality bouldering videos. At the same time, some pioneers have used expensive helicopters to record routes with mainly good results. The prices are getting lower and the AR Drone from Parrot at the picture cost 300 USD including the camera and this spring they will introduce a much smaller and more stable at half the price. It will probable not take long until there will daily be a helicopter recording at major crags around the world. Do not get surprised if there also will be a streaming from a helicopter when Ondra and Sharma go for an 9c in Oliana.

CAC wins price at ISPO
30 January 2014

CAC wins price at ISPO

Climbing Against Cancer and John Ellison won the "Winners" award of Social awareness at ISPO. In just 12 months, CAC has raised 230 000 Euro out of which 40 000 have already been donated to research facilities in Australia, France and Canada. Some two years ago, John did get the message that, "you have an advanced Cancer that is aggressive and to add to that you also have a secondary cancer. Whilst sat amongst so many friends from around the globe at the recent World Climbing Championships in Paris it became clear to me just how unique climbing is as a sport and how special we are as climbers. No matter what nationality, creed or colour there is a natural desire to support each other and encourage one another to succeed. Very few sports display this togetherness and it was at this point I realized that we are in fact an ‘extended family’.

Lucid Dreaming 8C by Daniel Woods

Chuck Fryberger reports on instagram that Daniel Woods has made the first repeat of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming 8C in Buttermilks - Bishop. Originally Paul gave it 8C+ but later he took out the +. In total, Daniel has now done 20 8C's out of which six during the last five months and he is #1 in the 8a ranking which he has been for some years now. (c) © Thomas Caleyron

Here you have the most viewed scorecards with Adam Ondra and Dave Graham on top. In total, Adam has received more 1.3 million clicks on his pages and Dave 900'. Among the female, Sasha Digulian's scorecard is most popular. You can also check the list per respective country page.

Meadowlark lemon 8B+ (C) by Niccolò Ceria

Niccolo Ceria has done Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks giving it a personal grade. "Maybe my hardest mental battle for a boulder. World class problem." All seven guys who have done it has given it 3 stars. Niky, who is #8 in the 8a ranking, has written a nice blog about the very nice looking world class problem.

Based on number ascents and new members, Poland is the fastest growing country in the 8a community and the growth is strongest for routes. Almost all of the 139 crags in the Polish data base, are located just above the border to Czech Republic or to Slovakia.

Corbie 8.6 mm gold award winner at ISPO

Edelrid, who has been developing ropes for 150 years and in 1964 produced the first dynamic rope, won the gold award for the third consecutive year at ISPO 2014 with the Corbie 8.6 mm. Grigri2 is only allowed down 8.9 so you need their special belay device - Mega Jul. Last year they won with Snipe, a rope with two different diamaters. Jury: "The Corbie 8.6mm is the thinnest climbing rope worldwide, which is certified as a single, double and twin rope. The small diameter of 8.6mm is possible thanks to the use of a braided core. This core construction is like a rope within a rope and serves as an additional safety measure. Exacting raw material selection combined with innovative finishing processes applied to the fibers serves to increase the sliding properties of the yarns." Other interesting innovations from Edelrid are; - The lightest and quickest looking carabiner - HMS Strike Slider - Quickdraw with super light/small upper carabiner and bigger for the rope - Belaystation for indoor without twisting