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Charles Albert (18) only barefoot up to 8C traverse in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
3rd of 4 parts of Ueli Steck's 82 4000 m peaks  Facebook
 

 
 
8B & 8A by Benoit Roten in Chironico  Facebook
 


Brewten - Boogalaga / Freak Brothers from Nils Favre on Vimeo.

 
 
Another 9a picture by Luka Fonda  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOver the years, Luka Fonda has been the most published photographer on 8a and this photo of Mina Markovic on La Fabela Pa La Enmienda 9a in Santa Linya is just another stellar one. In total, the climb has 18 ascents now, which makes it one of the most repeated in the world and Mina's ascent was the first female ascent.

 
 
Bernd & Barbara Zangerl in Cresciano  Facebook
 

 
 
Jernej Kruder explores Dalmatia  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder, #2 in the Bouldering World Championships 2014, is on a bolting trip to Dalmatia in Croatia. After a week he has bolted a dozen routes using the high quality 316 marine bolts that are paid for mostly by himself. The photographer, Luka Tambaca, says, "This cave has only one route so far and if he climbs it, it will be the hardest in Croatia. There is so much rock in Dalmatia that in future we can expect more great spots like this."

This summer Jernej did some multi-pitches up to 8b+ and later he did three 8B+ Boulders. He was also #3 in the Adidas Rock Master. Three weeks ago, he established a 60+ move 9a+ so clearly, he is a great multi-discipline climbing fanatic.

 
 
Top-3 EPIC Big walls 2015  Facebook
 

 
 
CAC Founder John Ellison Passed Away  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers Against Cancer was founded in 2012. The charity has raised some 400 000 euro, mainly through CAC T-shirt sales, income from which has been donated to different institutes. From an 8a interview from 2014:

"The diagnosis is a terminal one so no cure in sight. I think being positive has played a major part in my dealing with the situation so far and happiness is key. It is true after all that happiness is reciprocal so if I am happy then those around me will be and so on."


A day with John Ellison - founder of Climbing Against Cancer from Polished Project on Vimeo.

 
 
Fast and efficient warming up with jugs and crimps  Facebook
 

Very few climbers do proper warming up. Instead, we warm up with super easy slow motion climbing, which is time-consuming and could create the wrong mind set.

If instead you start your warming up with jumping up and down on jugs on a steep overhang where you increase the load, you save time and get a more explosive mind set. Having done some 30 moves during about 3 minutes you can start using your feet and within five minutes you can do big lock off moves.

Later you can do the same on crimps meaning that within 8 - 10 minutes you can be ready to climb and give your best on the training with the right powerful mind set.

 
 
The return of the king  Facebook
 

 
 
8a and Vertical Life team up  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe team of Vertical Life from South Tyrol is doing a great job in creating a world wide Climbing Topo App. The team follows strong ethical guidelines and collaborates exclusively with guidebook authors, locals and publishing houses. Many of the most recognized locals like Aris Theodoropoulos (Kalymnos guidebook), Andrea Gallo (Finale and Oltrefinale), Maurizio Oviglia (Sardinia), Markus Schwaiger (Zillertal) and Florian Wenter (Alpen en Bloc from Panico) believe in this promising service and system.

This is why 8a decided to team up with Vertical Life. Together we will work on flexible Ranking Games for climbing events and gyms.

A few days ago Vertical Life released the complete App update with some quite original functions, a modern style and new content, extending the offer also to Bouldering areas. You can download the App for Android and iOS and check out the climbing guide for 6 crags in Kyparissi, Greece, using this free code: 8ANU.
Download the App.

 
 
The Story of Two Worlds has been glued  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria comes with the sad news that somebody has glued one hold of David Graham's classic The Story of Two Worlds 8C in Cresciano. Being asked about his opinion based on the fact that the breakage could have meant it would have been easier or harder, Nico answered as follows.

I don't care about what it would have happened. It is not a problem if it would have been easier, harder or impossibile. I think If something has to break naturally, it doesn’t need any glue."

8a agrees with Nico that boulders should not be glued. On the other hand, 8a thinks that for the routes with artificial bolts, where often a hammer is used to clean the loose rock, it could sometimes be OK to use glue on an old line, especially as a broken hold can fall on someone's head.

 
 
Adam Ondra doing a 9a+  Facebook
 

 
 
Rubtsov does 3 8B+'s in Magic Woods  Facebook
 

 
 
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn our database there are now 3.7 million rated ascents that could help you to find the best crags and routes/boulders in the world. Selecting the next destination, you can search the crag list and analyze average stars and onsight rating etc. In the Ticklists, you can select a grade and a sector and make a list of the routes or boulders you would like to try.

 
 
Classic boulder problems in Pena Corneira (Galicia - Spain) Vol.4  Facebook
 



Have a look at the first 4 releases here.

 
 
Joe's Valley  Facebook
 


Joe's Valley from 8HOUSE on Vimeo.

 
 
Jernej Kruder doing a 9a+ FA : High class video!  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
The Big Island 8C by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen  (1) Facebook
 


The Big Island 8c from Michiel on Vimeo.

 
 
Saurwin & Verhoeven in RMNP  Facebook
 


Bouldering in Colorado2015 Part II from Jorg Verhoeven & Katha Saurwein on Vimeo.

 
 
Italians in Rocklands  Facebook
 

 
 
Preparatory updates for routes.8a.nu  (6) Facebook
 

8a Logo 2015 Some of you noticed login problems last week. This was caused by some updates we did to the site that had needed to be done in order to support our new server for routes.8a.nu. All is solved now and login (especially with cookies) should go even faster now :). In the weeks to come we are also going to start testing with support for https and hopefully roll out a beta prototype for the new design for the scorecard. Please add your email to our list at routes.8a.nu if you would like to be included in the (private) beta.

 
 
Ueli Steck runs 18 4000 m peaks in one day  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Top-3 bouldering videos of 2015  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Japan Granite #2  Facebook
 


Japan Granite vol.2 from Imashi Hashimoto on Vimeo.

 
 
Too structured and peak training: Kids at risk  Facebook
 

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra are the best rock climbers in the history of climbing and they certainly did not follow any structured training program. Instead, they just climbed wild and crazy and in fact, some old coaches said that their new techniques were not optimal.

Surely, structured training fits some youngsters and if they have active coaches that follow their athletes' progress on a daily basis and do not just send over training programs, it can be equally good. The dilemma is of course that most kids just want to climb wild and crazy and for these guys a structured program may be the contrary of productive.

The most important skill in climbing that never can be trained properly once being an adult is the intuition, especially in onsight climbing.

The third best climber in the world Alex Megos did have and still has some active coaches with a holistic approach. In fact, his coaches actively hold him back when it comes to his training in order not to let him peak at a very young age.

No doubt that in the short run structured and peak training will make the kids perform better at early ages but this may possibly be counter-productive for the kids motivation and technical skills.

 
 
Jacopo Larcher does 8c and 8b+ on trad gear  Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra fights hard but fails on a 9a OS  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra onsight attempt in Promotion canne à pêche, 9a, Ve...

Exclusive live video: Adam Ondra, a muerte, attempting onsight Promotion canne à pêche, 9a, Verdon gorge. Click on HD for better quality.

Posted by Fanatic Climbing on Sunday, December 13, 2015

 
 
8C FA by Jimmy Webb  Facebook
 


Jimmy Webb Sending 8c/v15 at Rocktown from Jameson Blount on Vimeo.

 
 
Find the best climbs with the 8a Ticklists  Facebook
 

In our database there are now 3.7 million rated ascents that could help you to find the best crags and routes/boulders in the world. Selecting the next destination, you can search the crag list and analyze average stars and onsight rating etc. In the Ticklists, you can select a grade and a sector and make a list of the routes or boulders you would like to try.

 
 
360-Dimensional videos in your mobile or via your mouse  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVirtual Realiy is getting big and the main reason is that it can be viewed on every mobile device without need of external tools. You can automatically use the phone’s internal gyroscopes and browse the scene in 360. It also works great via your computer and the mouse.

Coral Climb is a video production company that has shot outdoor and climbing videos since 1984 but lately they have opened a branch in Los Angeles and it's run by the Italian ex-Pro-climber Lucas Preti. They are testing this new technology and they've sent us an example of what looks like a VR camera on the head of a climber.

Here we attach a link to a youtube video in VR (use chrome or firefox, not safari, to navigate in 360°). Try a 360° boulder video. There is also an option to watch it using mobile apps (more fun because you use the phone's position to look around). Just download the youtube app and you will get a glimpse of the amazing future!

 
 
Alizee Dufraisse does 8A in Hampi  Facebook
 

Here is her full blog report with great pictures.

 
 
Improve quicker through technical and tactical sessions  (24) Facebook
 

Everyone seems to think that the shortcut to improvement is through physical indoor training. This is probably wrong unless you are a competition climber. If you want to climb harder grades outdoors, especially do onsights, you will improve faster doing some technical and tactical sessions.

The dilemma is of course that it is so easy just to follow a physical endurance or maximum power programme compared to doing some training where you actually have to think and challenge yourself also mentally. Here are some exercises that will help you progress technically and tactically.

1. Rainbow onsight - Combine hard colored routes to create new routes
2. One foot - Challenge easier routes using just your left or right foot
3. Exclude holds - Skip some holds for both your hands and feet, forcing yourself to go out of the comfort zone
4. Speed & Stop - Speed climb the routes but add two 1 minute Stop holds

PS The most effective training per minutes invested overall is stretching and fall training but that is so frustrating...

 
 
How to train everywhere with Muriel Sarkany  Facebook
 

How to train everywhere ;-)

How to train everywhere ;-)#MetoliusClimbing #RockRings3D #LaSportiva #SterlingRope #E9 #VolxClimbingHolds #Motivation #AMuerte #Guadeloupe

Posted by Muriel Sarkany on Saturday, December 19, 2015

 
 
Necessary Evil - Jon Cardwell  Facebook
 


Necessary Evil - Jon Cardwell from Matty Hong on Vimeo.

 
 
Simone Tentori recap  Facebook
 


Simone Tentori Recap from Achille Mauri on Vimeo.

 
 
Three to trial for the death of Tito Traversa  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn July 2013, Tito Traversa (12) was on a climbing trip in Orpierre with his Italian club. Tito, who did his first 8b+ when he was 10 years old, borrowed from a friend some quickdraws, which had been wrongly assembled. As he leaned backwards having clipped the anchor, the quickdraws fell apart and the young Italian fell 20 meters to the ground. He died in an hospital.

La Stampa reports that a prosecutor will take three people to trial for the death of Tito Traversa: the president of the climbing club, the climbing instructor of the camp and the company producing the strings to the quickdraws.

 
 
8a scoring system in gyms and outdoor events  Facebook
 

Wild Sport and Philoxenia on Kalymnos plan to run marathon competitions next year based on 8a scorecard point system with La Sportiva as the major sponsor. The concept is simple as you just try to do as many routes as possible during one day and you get points based on the 8a scorecard system. The marathon concept is also planned to be introduced to Melloblocco in coperation with the Vertical Life App and 8a.

The same system can be used in gyms, where you can try to go for a personal best or be ranked every month or so. There is a possibility that you get points on how many clips you do or undo if you are at toprope. Getting to the last clip on a 7b will give you more points than topping out a 7a.

The scorecard point system has been tested out at two Swedish national competitions with great results and no judges or referees were needed. 8a is currently working in corporation with Vertical Life in order to get ready the format, which will be presented to the gyms later. Any gym or event organizer that would like to become a test pilot gym is welcome to contact 8a.

 
 
Teenager of 2015 - Preliminary  (3) Facebook
 

Please comment on this preliminary list and give names we forgot or should be higher ranked.

1. Ashima Shiraishi
2. Janja Garnbret
3. Jongwon Chon
4. Megan Mascarenas
5. Laura Rogora
6. Miho Nonaka
7. Jessica Pilz
8. Anak Verhoeven
9. Nicolas Pelorson
10. Nathaniel Coleman, Giorgia Tesio, Jakob Kronberger, Stefano Carnati, Baptiste Ometz, Stasa Gejo, Loic Zehani, Kai Lightner, Jani Zoraj, Bernhard Röck, Sascha Lehman, Sam Avezou, Yoshiyuki Ogata, Filip Schenk, Ellis Butler-Barker, Giuliano Cameroni, Piotr Schab, Moritz Perwitzschky, Dimitri Vogt, Margo Hayes, Pietro Biagini, Giada Zampa, Matteo Menardi, Maria Ballerini, Kajsa Rosen, Vladislav Schevchenko, Asja Gollo,

 
 
Download your free 2016 calendar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers-Fingers has created a calendar for 2016, which you can download in 16 languages.

 
 
South West Utah Bouldering  Facebook
 


South West from 8HOUSE on Vimeo.

 
 
8B by Dave MacLeod  Facebook
 


4th Wave, 8B first ascent from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.

 
 
Pioneer Bernd Zangerl critical towards the modern 2.0 scene  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernd Zangerl is one of the first famous boulderers. He opened many of the early hard core problems in Ticino and especially Magic Woods including two 8C+'s that nowadays are considered 8B+.

UKC has made a new interview with the profile of Bernd, currently living and exploring boulders in the Himalaya. In general, the pioneer is very critical towards the modern 2.0 scene and the article finishes in this way:

"There is high pressure in the outdoor industry, so there is also high pressure within the sport itself. Nowadays it's more important to wear the right clothes of the right brand with the right colours. You have to visit the "bouldering hot spots“ of the world and share your private moments on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Some athletes spend more time on social media, than on the rocks, because the smart use of various media channels, particularly web 2.0, enables almost everyone to reach a certain reputation by merely spending a few hours per day on the web. This was definitely not the case ten years ago."

In the UKC article he is also critical towards grades and how the community deals with them, which he also said in an 8a article in 2011. He has stated that the reason for why his grades were inflated was because the first repeaters just kept confirming his initial FA grades.

Here is a greatvideo of the FA of Shantaram 8C/+ outside Trondheim. The picture by © Ray Demski/Red Bull Content Pool is from Die Versorgungslinie, which he did this autumn. No FA grade but Bernd says it is his hardest ever and it was done as a five year long ground up project that took 150 tries.

Other quotes from the outspoken great pioneer.

- I want to mention that I don't support those "training camps“, where seven year old kids are following a training programme!
- With the notion of „personal grading“ the rating has lost its original purpose, anyway.
- In the end I (and also Fred Nicole) were indicted for inflation, for using overblown grades.

- Depending on who is grading, or more importantly downgrading a problem, we accept the grade without any further discussions. The achievement of 11-year old Ashima Shiraishi climbing 8B boulders seems less important for the community. Why? Is she a special case of climber, because of her age or weight, her finger-size? But Ondra for example also has very specific physical preconditions, clearly differing from the average climber. Adam for sure can downgrade for example “Shantaram”, skipping two crux moves because of his extraordinary ape index. I am interested in their grade suggestions, but which weight should it be attributed to in the public? Is the “brave” repeater the only voice which holds true? For me “Shantaram” is one of the biggest highlights of my climbing career. It's an extraordinary climb and way harder than anything else I did before. (Personal grade: 8C/8C+)

 
 
Destivelle: Winning but hating competitions  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCatherine Destivelle was the first female rock star and was considered #1 sport climber during the late 80-ies and then she continued during the 90-ies with groundbreaking mountaineering ascents. Here is a documentary with the "Rock Queen. Now she is working as a publisher and her latest book is The 9th grade, 150 years of free climbing. On the picture by Uli Weissmeier she is together with Lynn Hill, whom she actually beat most of the times.

How did you like comps and why did you stop so quickly?
I have never enjoyed climbing competitions. The first time I took part in a competition, I just wanted to know what it would be like because until then no competitions had ever taken place in Western Europe. My friends encouraged me to take part, they said I couldn't say I hated competitions until I had actually tried.

That's why I entered the first international climbing competition which took place on a natural rockface in Bardonnecchia, Italy. Taking part in a competition was really stressful for me. Why? To be honest, I was afraid of measuring myself against the others, afraid of losing. I had never competed and I was reputed to be one of the best French climbers; if I lost, my pride would be hurt.

At the end of the day, despite the stress, the competition turned out to be a positive challenge. I won: I came first in everything! At the time, there were three prizes: style, speed and difficulty. Thanks to this outcome, I got several sponsors and I was able to stop working as a physiotherapist and spend all my time climbing.
 
I didn't consider taking part in other competitions because, above all, I found them stressful. I wanted to climb mountains. Unfortunately this ambition was rapidly jeopardized by a foolish 35 meter fall down a crevasse. I broke my pelvis and my spine and I was lucky to be alive. However, I was weakened by these injuries and I didn't feel strong enough to go back to the mountains.
 
As the media still presented me as the best woman climber in the world, I felt like I needed to go back to competing. I needed to prove them right, to justify whether it was true. So I returned to compete in Bardonnechia the following year, intent on winning. During that year, I worked hard to build up my strength again. My great rival was going to be Lynn Hill. I thought she was the only one who could beat me. In order to win, I studied the rules of the competition. Speed was still part of the criteria to win. I bet on that, and I won. Phew !... After that, I took part in very few competitions.

 
 
X-Mas sale at EPIC TV  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEPICTV SHOP has already started the X-Mas sale. Beside their very low prices there are their some offers, ex.:
1. 300 grams of chalk when buying climbing shoes
2. Free T-shirt when buying E9 or Prana pants or sweaters

The Prana Avril Pants for women cost Euro 45 including free freight and if you are a member it is even cheaper, and then you get that free T-shirt!

 
 
Strength basics  Facebook
 

 
 
Desgranges documentary: so high emotional challenges  Facebook
 

Romain Desgranges won one WC in 2015 and in 2013 he was the European Champion. Now he aims for harder onsights in this great emotional and beautiful documentary movie.

 
 
All 82 of Alp summits <4000 m in 62 days by Ueli Steck  (1) Facebook
 

This is a must see! One of the greatest climbing accomplishments all time. The video story and pictures and also top class.

 
 
Alex Honnold takes all the challenges in Angola  Facebook
 

 
 
Salazar bouldering #2  Facebook
 


Salazar bouldering film part 2 from greenandshiny on Vimeo.

 
 
 
9a by Ruben Firnenburg (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRuben Firnenburg, who did his first 9a when he was 16 years old, has done his third one, A Muerte in Siurana. The picture is from a 9a project in Santa Linya.

"Have been working on it with Gabri Moroni 3 years ago but felt really hard. In this year's Spain trip it felt much better although this bouldery beast is rather my anti-style. On my second day I came already close to send it falling off the last hard move. Then the day after I somehow couldn't seal the deal and fell three times in a row on the last move. To me it felt like a soft 9a. Maybe it's 8c+/9a. But grades are individual and this route took me a lot of time and effort to complete."

 
 
8A+ by Mélanie Sandoz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMélanie Sandoz, the World Bouldering Champion from 2012, has done her first 8A+, Frank's wild years in Cresciano and it only took her one hour. In 2013, the French was #3 in the European Bouldering Championship and the amazing thing is that her best World Cup result is #6 even if she has participated in some 30 events.

 
 
9a for Markovic and 8c flash for Garnbret  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic comes with amazing news on Facebook, "Special day for our crew today!!! Both @miiiinam (Mina Markovic) and @janja_garnbret made history today by doing a 9a (Fabela pa la enmienda) and 8c flash! (Rollito Sharma extension) Congrats girls, you're outstanding and a huge inspiration!"

Mina won the Lead World Cup this year and Janja (16) was #7 but she participated in only three events, making the podium in all of them. In the European Championships she was #2. All of them come from Slovenia, which is one of the leading Climbing nations although it has just about two million residents. In the 8a Climber of the year list, Mina is #2, Domen #8 and Janja #12. More info to come. (c) Luka Fonda

 
 
9a again by Domen Škofic  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has done Fuck the system 9a in Santa Linya. The big knee drop moves were captured by Luka Fonda.

 
 
Third 8a+ onsight by Laura Rogora (14)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora has onsighted Fallo col dito nel buco in Grotti giving it a personal grade of 8a+. During the same day she also did an 8b+. Her two first 8c's she did when she was just 13 years old. In the 8a ranking game, the Italian senior champion is #2.

 
 
8c+ FA by Rafa Fanega (40)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRafa Fanega, who started climbing 25 years ago, is having his best year ever. Last week he did the FA of Estado lamentable in Archidona, which is his third 8c+ in 2015. Previously, the 40-year-old did only one 8c+, which took place last year.

In total, Rafa has recorded 1 410 routes, out of which one third are FAs. Most of his FAs are from Fin del Mundo outside Madrid, which has been one of the most popular crags in Spain recently, although it is closed between February 1st and June 15th.

 
 
Roland Hemetzberger makes 9a+ FA  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRoland Hemetzberger reports great Christmas news on Facebook and attaches a picture by Stefan Kuehn,

"Oh yeahhhhhhhhh what a f***ing rad XMas present / After 20 years as a project I was able to send it today. I invested so much time in this piece of rock I can't believe it... For sure my hardest climb I ve ever done and it's a big honor for me to freed this old project from "Stefan Fürst" I don't know how hard I would suppose around 9a+ what ever rad one... cheers"

The Austrian did a dozen 8c+'s previously and a couple of 9a's, and also an 8c+ on pre-placed trad gear. Many of his FAs has not been repeated yet.

 
 
8B+ in 30 min by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi (14) comes with amazing news on Facebook, (c) Ikuko Serata

"Santa Claus gave me the best Christmas present ever🎁! I sent Phenomena V14 (8b+) in Hinokage, Miyazaki!!! This was the 2nd ascent after @dai_koyamada and the first female ascent!! I once again surprised myself by sending it after about 30 MINUTES of working on it!!!"

This was the 14-year-old's second 8B+ and one of the quickest 8B+ ascents in the history of bouldering. Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods are the only ones who have flashed an 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, Ashima is #2 in bouldering but if we take in consideration both routes and boulders, Ashima has been #1 in the world since she was 12 years old.

 
 
9a+ in Santa Linya by Edu Marin  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin has done Directa open your mind R2 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Giancola

"Yesterday was a great day for me! I knew my form was good but after a week in bed because of a nasty flu, I had my doubts for my project. Nothing is further from reality ... I got to take Direct Open Your Mind 9a + R2 and signing the fourth repetition to close a long and successful season!"

In a Desnivel interview, Edu explains that he did the full line and he marked it R2 to differente it from the R1 version stopping mid-ways which Ashima Shiraishi and others have done. The R2 adds an 8c after the 9a R1 anchor.

 
 
The Big Island 8C by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichiel Nieuwenhuijsen has done The Big Island 8C in Fontainbleau. (c) Thomas Caleyron

Here is what he said two months ago when he did the 8B+ variation. "One and a half year ago I tried the Island for the first time. Such an intense problem and maybe the best compression boulder in the world. Even I only have been there for 6 or 7 days, it has been on my mind since. Yesterday it went down, but this isn´t the end. The big Island always has been the main goal. It is time to go BIG! The 8C starts two moves lower

Bad conditions kept me from going back to the Big Island this trip. But will be back in December for two weeks. ‬"

 
 
9a by David Firnenburg (20)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, who did his first 9a, Era Vella, when he was 15 years old has done his seventh and also his hardest route of this grade, Fabela pa la Enmienda. (c) Henning Wang

"Yeahhhh man! What a beast. Took me the most time ever to finish a route. If you consider time to evaluate the grade, this one was my hardest route to date. Took me weeks to complete it and I had to go trough so many mental battles. At a certain point I lost hope and wasn't really committing anymore. I doubted if I could really do it. Though I didn't want to gave up and re-set my mind. After topping out the route I realized that psychology in performance climbing is the ability to switch in a productive mode at the right moment to reach an optimum mindset and also body feeling to succeed a certain challenge.

 
 
8C by Alban Levier  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Alban Levier has done the 3rd ascent of Orsay roof 8C, Paris South surburb after ten days of work.

"It's a very demanding line. All the kind of movements of climbing are involved. You turn your body in all the directions in this roof ! That's why it's wonderful! The whole thing adds an 8A boulder of 12 moves to the classical 8B exit (part 2). So the effort is completely different. It's nice to mix a long and brutal challenge like this. All my thoughts are going to Rémy Bergasse. Without him and his vision, maybe the line would be right now again a project!

 
 
8c+ by Mina Markovic in Santa Linya  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Markovic, the Lead World Cup winner 2015, who did an 8c+ last month in Misja Pec, reports on Facebook that she has done an 8c+ in Santa Linya. (c) Luka Fonda

"After two days of climatization I used good conditions #santalinya and send nice line 'Digital system ext. 1'. Can't wait to try out more!"

 
 
Terremer 8C by Simon Parton  (1) Facebook
 

Simon Parton has done the fifth ascent of Terremer, 8C in Hueco Tanks, which was set up by Fred Nicole as an 8C+ in 2005. It is an extremely sharp and crimpy link up of an 8A (+) into an 8B (+).

 
 
9a again by Domen Škofic  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic reports on Instagram some amazing news, "Yesterday I on sighted one 8c and today I did La Fabela L1+L2 9a in third try but I ripped the skin of my left ring finger in the lower crux, I was surprised I could finish it of with totally bloody hand." (c) Jernej Vukotic

His big project is Neanderthal 9b, "I have 4 tries on it and I feel I could send it in the next 4 or so... But you know how it is, it can go the next try or after I don't know how many. Right now I hope my finger heals back fast.

In the Lead World Cup 2015, the Slovenian was #4 after winning one event and in the 8a ranking game, Domen is also #4.

 
 
8c+ by Jakob Kronberger (14)  Facebook
 

Jakob Kronberger has done his third 8c+ of the last month, Vollmond in Salzburger Land. Having done also his first 9a this summer, the 181 cm tall and 14 year old should be one of the most promising teenagers out there.

 
 
8a+'s again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner started climbing 30 years ago and now, being 50 years old, she is having her best year ever with 55 routes 8a and harder done. Just during the last two weeks, she has done three 8a's and two 8a+'s including Nosferatu in La Palais, which she did yesterday.

 
 
Estato Critico 9a by Gorka Karapeto  Facebook
 

Gorka Karapeto has done Estato Critico 9a in Siurana, which is the famous route Alex Megos onsigted some years ago. The 34-year-old Spaniard did three 9a's previously.

 
 
9a by Cody Roth  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCody Roth has done the 3rd ascent of Rupesh Chhagan's I Me Mine, in central Texas. "Anytime I take down a line at my limit it's hard not to doubt myself. Was it really that hard? It's never the top that I thought it was going to be. Climbing is a beautiful curse."

Previously he did some 30 routes 8c and harder out of which two FA's about as hard as I Me Mine. In 2003, Cody was #6 in his World Cup debut but later during seven more events he did never better than #14.

 
 
8b+ and a 8a (+) onsight by Laura Rogora (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has done two more impressive ascents in La Fortezza; Aia 8c redpoint and Thor onsight, giving it a personal grade of 8a. The Italian onsigthed her first two 8a+'s and redpointed her first two 8c's being 13 years old and she is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Here are some comments from her from last spring:

"I have got a trainer and he is very good. He always gives me good advises not just about the sport but also for many aspect of my life. I' m training alone because in Rome there aren't many strong people at the same age as me but I would like have someone to train with."

I love to overcome my limit, winning the steady struggle with myself, and whether I do not succeed, I still like to feel the harmony with the rock experiencing each single movement.

 
 
8A again by Giorgia Tesio (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiorgia Tesio has done her fourth 8A, Flower Power in Ciciu. Last year, being 14 years old, she did her first 8A+, Excalibur sit in Varazze and she is #12 in the female ranking game. Earlier this year, the Italian won the Bouldering European Championship.

The picture is from the video from last week, when she did Noi 8b+ in Adonno.

 
 
8B+ by Sebastian Cotting (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Sebastian Cotting has done his first 8B+, From Shallow Waters to the Riverbed in Magic Wood. "I climbed Riverbed 8a+ in October 2014. The sitstart adds a 7C+ boulder, which made a huge difference for the whole line, at least for me. I needed around 15 sessions in total.

 
 
8C FA by Niccolo Ceria  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria has done the FA of Ziqquarat 8C and thus strengthened his leading position in the 8a ranking game. In total, the Italian has done 90+ boulders 8A and harder. Picture by his brother Rudy.

"It was a great feeling to stand at the top of my biggest project of the year. Every climber who has been searching for a perfect horizontal roof knows how hard it is to find a 90° degrees angle with holds, instead of the typical blank and impossible cave. This roof definitively represents an exception for me, since the holds on the edge make the climbing possible, like the old classic Riverbed in Averstal, to make a clear example.

This project took me days, efforts, patience and training; but I have been psyched in every single moment of the experience. Every time I failed I was really excited, since some positive points always came out in each attempt. The peculiarity is of course the perfect cut of the roof and (not visible for the photo) the technical and spicy final arete. The full sequence took me in total 9 days, 6 of them during 2015 and during my highest shape peaks. Probably my hardest so far, but I feel definitely more glad about the uniqueness of the boulder. Name chosen is "Ziqqurat" and it could be something around 8C range I guess.

 
 
8B+ (C) by Jan Hojer  Facebook
 

Jan Hojer completed three 8B's in addition to Toupie Carnivore assis in Fontainebleau, which he gave a personal grade of 8B+. Last year the 186 cm tall power house won the Boulder World Cup. In 2015, he was #2.

 
 
8A (+) by Alex Puccio  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Sitting Moon in Horsetooth giving it a personal grade of 8A. "I think this Boulder fit my body and style perfectly! All the others loged 8A+ on here, but I think it was my style. Definitely didn't have to try as hard in this climb as all other 8A+'s I have done. Fun day out with friends and the pup!!! :)

Last year Alex was #2 in the World Championship but this year she got injured during the warming up in the Vail WC in June, which made her go through a surgery. Alex proves that sometimes you come back stronger after an injury due to getting a long recovery break. (c) Joel Zerr

 
 
8B+ again by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch has done his tenth 8B+ in 2015, Traumschiff in Zillertal, which is kind of amazing as this year he also did his very first problem of this grade. "One of the best and hardest boulders in the valley. Amazing riverslopers and one really sharp crimp. Took me 4 sessions to complete."

The 21-year-old is #2 in the world ranking game but when it comes to having done most 8A's and harder he is superior with almost 100 of them. Based on his trend diagram, showing extreme progress the Austrian has had in the last few years, there is a possibility that in a couple of years he could set new bouldering world standards.

 
 
9a FA #43 by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra is back on the track after an intensive competition year where he won in Lead and was #3 in Boulder. Yesterday he did the FA of Cizí agent 9a in Moravský kras, which actually was his 43rd 9a and harder FA.

"Crazy humid morning, but I crimped hard enough. Super specific route on micro holds in the vertical wall."

 
 
9a by Reffo Silvio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReffo Silvio, who previously completed nine 9a's or harder, repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's 40 m long line, Under Vibes 9a in Arco, which is a link-up of Underground 9a and Reinis Vibes 8c. In total, the Italian spent roughly 25 sessions on the two 9a's.

"I'm really not sure about the degree of this route; some years ago when I tried Papichulo, a 9a+ very similar style to UnderVibes in Oliana, I felt the same feelings, so probably this route could be 9a/a+. I think for the moment that this line is the hardest resistance testpiece in Arco. Thanks to Francesca Simionato for the belay in a so freezing morning.

Now I have some Projects in Slovenia and with the new year I'm going to go in Oliana.

 
 
9a+ FA by Stephan Schibli (43)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStephan Schibli, who started climbing in 1989, made his personal best by completing the FA of Licht und Schatten 9a+ in Telli. The project took him around 50 sessions over three year period. The 44-year-old previously climbed three 9a's and his hardest route, not counting his own FA's, is an 8c. This also does not take into account Bang des Sang 9a, which he climbed on top rope in his third try.

"I built the start of the route in my boulder room for my special training. The next climbing plan is the an 15 year open project in Telli and holiday in Sperlonga!!!"

 
 
9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist  (11) Facebook
 

Tara Reynvaan reports on Facebook that Jonathan Siegrist has done his fourth 9a+, Power Inverter in Oliana, and the good news is that there is a video being made. Jonathan has done 14 routes 9a and harder to date. He is also famous for comparing Era Vella 9a with some 8c's he has done.

 
 
One more 9a by Alex Megos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 9a,

"Did "Victimes del Futur" 9a today! After giving it 2 tries after my onsight of "Victimes del Passat" 2 days ago... A powerful lock-off is the crux and the freezing temps made everything harder since everybody struggled with cold fingers. But having a great time here!!!"

Alex has done 47 routes 9a and harder and in our stats is #3, after Adam Ondra and Ramon Julian Puigblanque. However, when it comes to the biggest number of 9a's done the last year, Megos is #1 with more than 15 of them.

 
 
The Big Island 8C by Ned Feehally  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Grimpe reports that Edward "Ned" Feehally has done The Big Island 8C in Fontainebleau. Ned has previously done several 8B+'s and one 8C. In 2012, he was #6 in a Boulder WC.

 
 
9a+ RP and 8c+ OS by Alex Megos  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos reports two more world class ascents on Facebook,

"BÄÄÄM! Did "Demencia Senil" (9a+) on my 2nd try today!!! Once checked it out till the 3rd bolt 2 years ago but felt too hard. Today I checked it out the whole way up and did it in the go after! Huge fight!
Had a great couple of days here in Margalef with yesterday, where I did my FIRST 8c+ ONSIGHT! "Victimes del Passat"!!!

 
 
First 8c+ by Carole Palmier  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports on Facebook that Carole Palmier has done her first 8c+, La Rubia in Vilanueva del Rosario.
Photo: Henning Wang / Madskills Media

"I'm so glad to have sent "La rubia", for me one of the nicest routes of Spain, bolted by Christian Lupion. I was dreaming about this line all the year et after 2 weeks of hard work I did it finally. It's a 50 meters routes in the Chilam balam cave.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (36) Facebook
 

Ashima Shiraishi reported on Instagram that she had sent Terre de Sienne during her first day in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole as a hard 8B+ but now it is considered an 8B. She also made a quick ascent of Diaphanous Sea 8A.

The 14-year-old sent one 8B+ boulder previously (UKC reports four) and one 9a+ sport route. In fact, Ashima has had the most impressive combined female tick list for the last two years. It should be noted, originally both of these great boulders had a higher grade, however, we are reporting the consensus 8a grade.

 
 
9a FA by Loic Zehani (14)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Carnaval 9a in Cevennes. The route, which is a link up of two 8b+'s, took him seven sessions. The 14-year-old has done one 9a previously and gave it a personal grade of 8c+.

"The route is an amazing big overhang (20 meters with 12 meters of overhang). The first pitch was bolted by Jean-Marc Oberli (8b+).This part is almost in roof with crimpy crux and a hard part with little tufas and the second pitch was bolted by my father (It is 8b+ too but with many two fingers Pocket in very big overhang). There is no rest beetween. The difficulty of the route is the big level of stamina. I am so happy because during the last days I think about this route all the time...even at the school!

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Megan Mascarenas has done her fifth 8A+ for 2015, William Shatner in Newlin Creek and is currently #3 in the female ranking game. "one of my absolute favorite climbs in the world."

Having won Adidas Rock Star and one World Cup, Megan has an even more impressive 2015 competition record. Her worst 2015 international result is #3 in a WC.

 
 
Three 8B+'s by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has done three 8B+'s in ten days including the FA of Kings of contortion in Obed. "Another day and another classic hardline for the southeast! This one 'kings of Contortion' v14 has to be one of the funkiest roof lines I've done. Big up to @sendclimbing for hookin me up with the best knee pad on the market making this rig possible! So psyched to add another stunner FA to my homeland. @paulrobinson87 also hooked it up for the 2nd ascent shortly after. Not a bad day in the woods!"

Meanwhile, the #3 in the ranking game has also done another five FAs graded 8A and harder. The picture from his Instagram, which is loaded with great pics.

 
 
9a FA by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque, the best combined rock and competition climber of the last ten years, has done the FA of Ficció digital 9a in Berga. "Good route bolted by Oriol Maraver." Last week he also opened one 8c+ and onsighted Corrida 8c in Osp/Misja Pec.

In total, the 159 cm tall climber has done 45 routes 9a and harder. The only climber to exceed him is Adam Ondra who has sent 110 routes 9a and harder.

 
 
8c+ by Mina Markovic in the 3rd go  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Markovic, the winner of the Lead World Cup 2015 (video), reports on Facbook that she did Histerija 8c+ in Misja Pec in her third go. (c) Luka Fonda
Two days before that, she did Corrida 8c.

"It is really nice that after season I can spend days outdoor together with strong climbers and just enjoy on the rock. No expectations, just climbing, sharing good vibes and meeting nice people!"

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle  (44) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done the FA Meoise 9b in Charmey after 50 days of working on it and 150 tries, it was the last try the last day before leaving to Buenos Aires with his family for nine months! On the 30th March 2012, The German did two 9a's, Chromosome Y and X in 75 minutes, video. Meoise is a link up which actually goes straight up through two 8B cruxes.

Previously in 2015, he did one 8C+ and one 9a+. His 9b blog story is just amazing and here topo for Charmey and Jansegg.

 
 
Recent teenage sends in Spain  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEasier routes sometimes pass unnoticed among so many hard sends and so many big numbers, although sometimes 'smaller achievements', especially when they are reached at precocious ages like this of our two protagonists in this piece of news, are really praiseworthy.

Hector Bazán turned 13 in September and more recently sent his second 8c route some 3 months after his first - 'La Florida' in Rodellar. This time the turn came for L'espiadimonis in La Cova Boix at Margalef. A very different style from that of the previous 8c, but as he once said: "it's a place I like and a style that fits me."

A little bit older, more exactly 16 years old, Muriel Ruiz de Larramendi, who not long ago was proclaimed the female Spanish sub-18 champion, has jumped from 8a+ to 8b+ with Tekken in Etxauri, as informed by Desnivel. This line, which can be found in the Kale Borroca sector, is a vertical and technical route, where crimps and thin footwork are predominant.

News by Esteban Diez fernández / Translation and pic by Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

 
 
8b+ by Nika Potapova (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNika Potapova has done Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ in Osp/Misja Pec. The 12-year-old has previously done two 8b's, the first of which 18 months ago. Video of her hanging 2.40 min on Zlagboard. This is some 40 seconds more than the best female and on the level of the second best male. Ramionet holds the world record at 2.45.

 
 
9a by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuka Fonda reports with a great picture that Sachi Amma managed to make the 3rd repeat of Water World 9a in the big cave of Osp. Earlier this year, the WC winner 2013 did five 9a+'s and one 9b.

 
 
8C+ and 9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle and one even harder  (21) Facebook
 

Pirmin Bertle, who has done six 9a's, did yesterday do his hardest route ever, which made him share the news that in April he did a 8C+ FA, Drop a line in Couisimbert and that he in August did the FA of Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or 9a+ in Jansegg, video. Last week, he also did the FA of Mediomalomania 8C in Lindental, "but the hardest thing in my life I sent yesterday."

Interesting is that he did not climb at all during the first six months of 2014 due to having caught bone mark edema. Then he just climbed very easily for some months until he started to work only on the 8C+ boulder. Interesting is also that he only trains five hours a week and never indoors. More info on his blog and on 8a tomorrow. :)

Drop a line 8C+ at Cousimbert, the real video from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
9a+ FA again by Adam Ondra - updated  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done yet another 9a+ FA and his second one in Czech Republic, Predator in Srbsko. In total, the best climber in the world of the last five years has put up 21 routes 9a+ and harder. (c) Pavel Zvire

"Very nice route with awesome sequence in the crux, which is impossible to grade. For me probably 9a/a+, but with no flexibility definitely much harder...1 daz month ago, now sent 2nd go in 30mins"

Read also the article in the right column, which was published before this amazing knee drop picture appeared on the website: "Stretching the fastest way to improve".

 
 
8a+ (b) Joshua Ibbertson (11)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJoshua Ibbertson has done Primeur de luxe 8a+ (b) in Frankenjura and his father, James gives us the story.

"We spent the half term holiday with some good friends of ours the Perwitsky family, who live the Frankenjura. They recommended we tried Primeur de Luxe due to the foggy conditions as it's quick to dry. Josh managed to do all the moves that day and link it overlapping sections. We returned the next day but it was his third day of climbing and his skin was too sore to pull on small holds so he took a rest day. Luckily the sun came out, dried the rock and we enjoyed really great conditions allowing him to get it in a couple of tries.

 
 
Edu Marin has also done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b)  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin reports on Instagram that he has done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b). This summer he was focused on multi-pitches with his father who also belayed him on Chilam Balam. This was the fourth repeat of Barnabe Fernandez's 80 meters long endurance monster, which originally was given a 9b+.

Edu has previously done 8 routes 9a or 9a+ and in 2006 he won the World Cup in Chamonix.

 
 
9a FA by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the best climbers of the last five years, both on rock and in comps, reports on Facebook that he has made the FA of Companion of Change 9a in Zillertal. Last weekend he was #3 in Kranj as well as in the 2015 overall ranking. (c) Elias Holzknecht

"The route was bolted by Markus Schwaiger then rebolted + cleaned by Gerhard Hörhager, two of the most important pioneers of Tyrol! I tried this route for the first time many years ago and came back every once in a while, a lot has changed since I first saw this route, in my life but also in climbing and on this planet in general. That's why I'm giving it the name 'Companion of Change'.

I'm not 100% sure about my plans yet, I'm really spontaneous right now, done with university since May, so I can put all my time into climbing. Planing to focus on Lead next year and less bouldering so I can focus on rockclimbing a lot longer. Probably climbing mostly outside until May.
On Saturday I will go to Croatia for a week, mid December Spain and Hueco in February."

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist during the night  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEPICTV reports that Jonathan Siegrist has done Chris Sharma's Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Samuel Elias

""Papichulo is an incredible 45 meter route. It’s involved, with a very pumpy and nerve-racking finish after a consistently tough first half."

This was the third 9a+ for Jonathan and what makes this one so special is the fact that he up had to turn on his head lamp midways the route and continued to the top.

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