Martina Demmel has onsighted Stiquel man 8a+/b in Saint Léger. ”Maybe being very limited with my right knee due to a recent injury helps me commit faster... shocked that I fully took the risk to fail. (c) Felix Bub

The 22-year-old competition climber onsighted her first 8b, out of ten, four years ago when she had only been climbing for three years. In the 8a ranking game she is #7 in the onsight ranking, all men included.

Can you tell us more about your injury and how it made you climb faster?
In qualis in Wujiang, we had a pretty aggressive heel-toe-jam where my calf dislocated for a short moment and injured the capsule. It's not as bad as it sounds because it completely heals by itself in about 6 weeks but now for the first few weeks, I'm very limited with the use of my right leg (no heel-hooks, dropknees, twisting, high steps, pushing, pulling with the toes - so standing on it frontally is ok).

I guess while trying a hard onsight especially in steep bouldery terrain, there isn't plenty of time to choose the ideal footholds. Not having several options for the use of my right leg helped me decide quicker, hesitate less and just commit to the obvious beta right away by taking more risks. I hope to apply this more even after my knee is healed again. I definitely feel my upper body getting much more tired than usual...

Tanguy Merard, who three weekends ago sent three 9a’s, has carried on with more productive days in L'Abattoir making the FA of La cinquantaine éclatante (9a+), Brouncha (9a) and Hannigraal (9b). (c) Jocelyn Chavy

”I started trying La Cinquantaine Éclatante because the route consisted of making an easier start of a 9b [project Hannigraal]. It was motivating because it gave me an intermediate objective. In terms of climbing and holds, I've never loved a route so much, I couldn't stop climbing it, I loved it. These routes didn't require any mental effort because climbing them was just a pleasure, and I didn't care if I did the route.

[Two days later] On my first try I sent the new route that I bolted with a friend, "Brouncha" 9a FA. The same day I tried the hardest project on the cliff that we were trying with Seb Berthe, which consists of doing a 9a and continuing into "La Cinquantaine Éclatante", 9a+. So I launched into the route without any expectations just to see what it was like, telling myself that if I did the first part (9a) it would already be good. I was flying on the holds and I arrived at the first anchor so easily without feeling pumped, so after that I started to believe. I gave it my all for the final boulder , got back into the slab and managed to calm down before sending the final jump over the edge of the cliff. Everything was perfect, I clipped the anchor in shock and I was surprised, I had just completed my first 9b Hannigraal FA.

About the grade of "Hannigraal" which for me is much harder than all the 9a+ I did. I had a little doubt because I did it super quickly, but the route suits me very well. I also had a discussion with Nicolas Pelorson and Seb Berthe who tried the route, and they told me that they agreed with me.”

Pierre Trolliet has done Cosi se Arete (9a) in Rodellar. This stunning line is 50 meter long and follows the crag’s most overhanging section. (c) Léo Giroudon

Can you tell us more about Cosi?
I started projecting this route last year. I thought it could fit my style, since the route is long, overhanging, and not too crimpy. Still, the boulder problem at the top was quite a big challenge for me. But, the place and the line are so incredible that I was ready for some serious dedication. With a tricky combination of beta fine tuning, and perfect weather conditions, I could reach the top, after a huge mental fight. I am really happy about sending this dream line, and very thankful for those who helped me through the process, particularly my girlfriend, who clearly made this possible.

David Bermudez Carbonell, who earlier this year climbed two 9a’s, has ticked ¡0,7 ya! (8c+) in Cuenca, after working on it for around ten days. (c) Javi Pec

"This route has been a challenge for me as it is undoubtedly the hardest 8c+ I have ever done and since it was bolted in the 90's it has received very few ascents. In fact, it has cost me more than the 9a's I have done. The route is divided into the first 20m which will be like 8b/+, an active rest followed by a 7C+ boulder and finishes on a very technical slab where it is easy to fall off."

Congrats on your latest redpoint! Do you train most weeks to prepare for your projects and the climbing you do outdoors?
On Monday I rest actively and only do some stretching and wrist exercises. Then on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I train, with Sputnik Climbing plans. On Friday I rest and I climb outdoors on Saturday and Sunday

Do you have other projects and goals in mind?
The next target here in Cuenca is to send El intento (9a), which is a route that I have given some 30 tries already.

Leo Bøe has done Fabelita r2 (9a) in Santa Linya. "Great extension to Fabelita! Suits me pretty well as I am strong on the toe-hook. 2 days last year, and 3 days this trip! The line is quite straight and is one of the cooler climbs in the cave, despite it being a bit bouldery. In total, you end up climbing around 45 meters & 100+ moves to get to the top of the cave!! " (c) Jaume Cebolla Vincent

Is there another climb that you have in mind in Santa Linya?
Now I will try to get through the start of Ciudad de dios (9a), my biggest project!

Fabrizio Peri, who did his first 9a at age 42 and his third at age 49, reports on Instagram that he has repeated Laura Rogora's Tomorrowland L2 (8c+/9a) in Collepardo, after trying it for four years.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route before the pandemic. Two years of attempts, specific training, and nutrition I had always under control, but nothing [achieved]. I managed to do it with only one rest but I never succeeded on a move in the center of the route, not even starting from a hanging position... I couldn't give up because I felt that if I had taken that step the route was ready, but that launch [dyno] just wasn't working. The decision is made...I give it up. For another four years, I climbed between the Grottone in Sperlonga and the Pala in Collepardo but my thoughts always went to that passage, there in that meter of the wall at the Cueva. A few months ago I returned, I was determined, I didn't have to be stronger, I had to change the method. And in fact, for the first time, I was able to make that movement that seemed impossible. Then yesterday the north wind accompanied me to the chains!!!!!

How were you able to suddenly solve the crux?
I tried a different beta. Instead of going with my left hand to a closer grip I tried to go with my right to the farthest grip and that movement, which I thought was impossible, turned out to be the right one.

How do you train?
I get to rock climb two times a week and train the rest of the days for about 2 hours for each workout. I alternate strength and endurance training, but I prefer endurance training because it is less traumatic compared to maximal exercises. I also make a couple of trips each year to Spain.

Maya Ene, who earlier this spring climbed her first 8B, has flashed Prince of Thieves (8A) in Joe's Valley (UT). The 14-year-old started to make headlines on Vertical-Life [8a] in 2021 when she did her first 8b+ and last year she sent her first two 8c+'s.

Can you tell us more about your trip to Joe's Valley?
We spent about a week there. Mid-trip I had the chance to climb with four very strong teenagers: Beckett Hsin, Landers Gaydosh, Bayes Wilder and Banlu Rogaway. All of us climbed a couple of problems V10 [7C+] and above. Being in such an impressive company I pushed my limits a lot getting “Prince of Thieves” first try. I also sent: “Death Scream” V10 and “Renaissance Man” V9. “Masterpiece” V13, indeed a masterpiece, became my project, but I was not able to send it.

What kind of beta did you get on your 8A flash?
I watched Landers go first (he was the one who knew the beta because he climbed it before). Beckett was second and he flashed it too. The crux was at the bottom, but the top was still tricky and you could mess it up, however, I believe this boulder was my style.

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Pierre Marzullo sent Supercrackinette (9a+) last November. "A dream came true today 🥹 Didn’t have the words for what I’m feeling right now. I just know that I want to try harder stuff, spent more time on it, and repeat that all my life."