GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
News   Numbers   Year
 
 
Gallery - Bernardo Giménez / ¡¡Happy New Year!!  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureQuite a while back we released the interview with this great argentinian photo/videographer called Bernardo Giménez (in Spanish).

Today, we finally present this gallery with some of his master pieces for two reasons: as a small tribute on his birthday and as one of the best ways to pass this lapse between the old and the new year -to observe that which make us dream-.

Happy 2012 jam-packed with great climbing experiences!!

 
 
Legends only in Stockholm  Facebook
 

 
 
8A by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

 
 
Team ABC  Facebook
 

Interviews

 
 
James Webb portrait  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has had some nice progress over the last years and he is now runner up after Adam Ondra in the Game. In 2011, he has done 72 8A's or harder including 17 FA's. Only in the last two weeks, eight boulders 8B or harder have been done. So what is the secret, how are you training and what is the plan for 2012?

"For me training is a very important aspect in my climbing. I spend close to 2 to 3 days a week in the gym, plus climbing outside. As for specific training I usually just try and create the hardest problems I can try, and work on certain moves that I know give me trouble. Other than that I like to mix in upper body workouts such as one arm power, some endurance, and ab work outs.

My main goal in 2012 is just to travel more. I am very excited to visit Font, and maybe the Rocklands of South Africa in the summer. Also, like every year, I want to try and push my climbing to the next level. So we'll see what happens."

 
 
Best and Most Viewed Videos of 2011  Facebook
 

Climbingnarc has the two Top-10 Lists.

 
 
Ticking most 8A or harder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 8a members that have done the most 8A or harder in 2011 (2010). The progress for Guntram and Anthony are just amazing and actually Gu's 119 is the most any 8a member has recorded in a year. In total, Dave Graham is leading the gang by 426 8A's or harder, out of which some 150 First Ascents!

Guntram Jörg 119 (31)
Anthony Gullsten 82 (40)
James Webb 72 (69)
Adam Ondra 63 (56)
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet 47 (18)
Dave Graham 42 (26)

 
 
Chris Webb Parsons training  Facebook
 

"Im being trained now by Christian Core and its very involved and hard on my body right now, but in a good way hard.
I have not done much on the rock for a while now as one of my goals in my climbing life is to do well in the world cups. So i have been training lots and lots but very structured and this means lots of indoor climbing."

BD athlete Chris Webb Parsons bouldering and training in England from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

 
 
Preliminary Climber of the year  Facebook
 

1. Adam Ondra
2. Sasha Digiulian
3. Jakob Schubert
4. Ramon Julian Puigblanque
5. Anna Stöhr, 6. Chris Sharma, 7. Sean McColl, 8. Dmitry Sharafutdinov, 9. Alex Puccio, 10. Sachi Amma

11. Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Melissa Le Neve, Jain Kim, David Graham, Gabriele Moroni, Angela Eiter, Charlotte Durif, Kilian Fischhuber, Nalle Hukkataival, Mina Markovic, Alizee Dufraisse, Magnus Midtbö, Jimmy Webb, Guntram Jörg, James Kassay
Please give your comments to update the list.

 
 
8B by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook
 

Sideways Daze - 8B (V13) from Marshall on Vimeo.

 
 
Edelrid image video  Facebook
 

EDELRID - Image video from edelridclimber on Vimeo.

 
 
35+ Climber of the year  Facebook
 

Dani Andrada, Gareth Parry, Bernhard Schwaiger, Thomasina Pidgeon, Greg Sobczak, Chris Zehani, Diego Marsella, Dani Lopez, Riccardo Scarian, Muriel Surkany, Jose Augustin, Cecile Avezou, Evgeny Ovchinnikov,

 
 
8b (+) OS by Domen Škofic (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has onsighted Hidrofobia in Montsant giving it a personal grade of 8b and he goes to #8 in the ranking game. Earlier this year he won the Youth World Champion and he made it into the semi in all seven WC he entered.

"This year I have focused more on comps and to take them for fun, no stress or anything. I learned many things like how to train better and what I have to improve. I managed to switch from endurance routes with easy moves like in youth comps to WC routes where the moves are much more explosive. I also started to climb much faster than before so that helped me a lot but I still want to improve a lot next year.

I don't boulder much so that is also a plan for the next year to become stronger, more explosive and to get better coordination, maybe also some campusing. I never did these things before, I was just climbing so I hope that this will have positive effects on me, we will see." (c) Luka Fonda

 
 
Practice & Ethics  (2) Facebook
 

In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules or use of referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners are sometimes struggling to understand what is "normal" behavior and what's allowed and what's not. Over time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply.

Do you agree on these recommendations for Climbing and for
Bouldering.

 
 
Swedes in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Bier Is Goed Vir Di Siel from Jocke Berglund on Vimeo.

 
 
8b MP by Barbara Zangerl  Facebook
 

Barbara Zangerl Hotel Supramonte from Planetmountain.com on Vimeo.

 
 
8b by Tito Traversa (9)  Facebook
 

sarsifal from Mountain View on Vimeo.

 
 
Fontainebleau by Gu  Facebook
 

 
 
Hours is what counts - not How  Facebook
 

How to train to make fast progress is what everybody wants to know? But in reality, it seems like Hours is what counts, not How the training or climbing are done!
Adam Ondra is the world's greatest climber and maybe one simple reason for this is that he is the teenager who has put in most climbing hours. You could probable say the same thing for the best female, Sasha Digiulian as well as explaining why the Austrians are the best competition climbers.

The training volume for the best athletes in established sports like fotball, running and gymnastic etc go from 10 hours a week being 10 and increasing to 30 hours including competitions etc. So turning 20, the world class climbers and other athletes have in fact at least 10 000 hours training background.

So maybe, the mission for the climbing trainers is not to give exact programs but simply to increase the motivation for putting in as many hours as possible? In the future, when we have hundreds of kids doing the sufficient numbers of weekly hours than maybe the trainers "How" programme will decide who will be #1.

 
 
Bernabé Fernández climbing 'Matar a Platón', 9a in Villanueva del Rosario  Facebook
 

 
 
Ondra 8C teasers  (7) Facebook
 

ADAM ONDRA - FIRST 8C BOULDERS from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

 
 
Rising stars  Facebook
 

Here is a list of some guys who has taken hugh step in 2011. Please suggest names. (Only including born 94 and earlier.)

Sasha Digiulian, Guntram Jörg, Andy Gullsten, Katharina Posch, Domen Skofic, Ben Spannuth, Maria Davies Sandbu, Sébastien Bouin, Matilda Söderlund, Jeremy Zachariash, Sean McColl, Hannah Midtbö, Magdalena Röck, Gerard Rull, Domen Škofic

 
 
Sorry for downtime  (1) Facebook
 

It actually turned out that our server provider had forgotten to pay for the renewal of the domain even if we had paid them. Merry Christmas :)

 
 
Hukkataival in Hueco Tanks  Facebook
 

3 from Hueco from ZeroSkillz on Vimeo.

 
 
Record ascents in 10 seconds  (8) Facebook
 

1. Log-in, which can be done automatically
2. Write Crag or Sector name up in right corner "Search & Add"
3. Select Crag or Sector and click the button
3a. Your choosen Crags are now listed so you can skip 1-3 above and directely click on the Crag name.

4. Click "Add" on selected climb from the Tick list
5. Click "Add Ascent" directely or add first a comment, stars etc
Popular routes can be recorded in 10 seconds as you only have to click three times.

4a. If you do not find it in the Tick List, select first grade/sector
4b. If you still not find it, add the climb from your Scorecard/Log-book menu

 
 
Artificial Icepark at Rjukan  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRjukanicepark is up an running after hard work by Jon Haukåssveen og André Trondsen. Water is pumped up from the river and spread out creating 15 meters steep routes. Rjukan is one of the most famous and best easy access ixe climbing in the world with no sun for 30 to 60 days. Climb-inn nice accomodation and courses 200 meters from artificial and natural ice.

 
 
Junior of 2011  (5) Facebook
 

Preliminary list...please suggest names and corrections or make your own list. Obviously there are many more teens climbing out there but this list is only based on what is available on the internet.
1. Adam Ondra -93
2. Sasha Digiulian -92
3. Enzo Oddo -95
4. Katharina Posch -94
5. Domen Škofic - 94
5. Ievgeniia Kazbekova -96
7. Magdalena Röck -94
8. Loic Timmermans -95
9. Momoka Oda -94,
10. Anak Verhoeven -95, Matilda Söderlund -92, Niccolo Ceria -93, Bernhard Röck -96, Alfons Dornauer -93, David Firnenburg -95, Rudi Moroder -92, Piotr Schab -96, Flannery Shay-Nemirov, Jan Hojer -92, Alexandra Ladurner -93, Megan Mascarenas -97, Marie Davies Sandbu -92, Shawn Raboutou -98, Johanna Ernst -92, Stefano Ghisilfo -93, Max Rudigier -93,

 
 
25 Minutes of Rocklands  (1) Facebook
 

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

 
 
8B+ again by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has done his second 8B+ the last week in Hueco Tanks, Crook by the Book.

 
 
Skip last rest under the anchor  Facebook
 

Once you rest after having climbed hard and intense for many meters, you often end up more pumped. The reason for this is that the forearm can be flooded as the muscles relax and hang downwards.

So if you have been struggling hard and you are approaching the anchor reaching a medium good rest, you just might continue the last few moves instead of resting 30 seconds.

Further more, resting gives time for thinking which can develop anxiety making you nervous and uncertain doing the last moves. A quicker approach will also make resting in between tries shorter compared to using the last rest.

In order to avoid getting flooded once you have clipped the anchor, do not, your belayer should take most of the load and then you can do some active resting before being rappelled down.

 
 
Johnny Dawes - To the Rainbow  Facebook
 

Untitled from Johnny Dawes on Vimeo.

 
 
Black  Facebook
 

"It looks nice", while trying this new harness people seem to think it's got some good looking lines and colours. I agree. You quickly adjust both (benslingor) and in the waist for the best comfort. This is probably not what I would coose for a long day on the big-wall, but hopefully it'll help me send some of my spring projects.

 
 
Two 8A's by Pol Roca Lopez (15)  Facebook
 

Pol Roca Lopez has during the last few days done two 8A's in La Comarca, Vimutti and Modus vivendi.

 
 
8B+ by Alberto Rocasolano  (3) Facebook
 

Papa Oso FA, Torrelodones, Alberto Rocasolano from beto rocasolano on Vimeo.

 
 
Bouldering in Chile  Facebook
 

Boulder in the ANDES - Choriboulder from rocanbolt on Vimeo.

 
 
New records again  Facebook
 

Last week we had, based on Google stats, some 50 % more unique visitors compared to last year. In total, 39 000 unique visitors made 330 000 visits. The Spanish page is increasing the most and had 32 590 visits made by 4 223 unique visitors.

 
 
1000 Pull-ups per day by Dmitry  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe double world champion in bouldering Dmitry Sharafutdinov: How to increase maximum power? (He can do 75 pull-ups static and 110 dynamic).

"First, the maximum number of pull-ups on the bar as well as on the fingerboard. Before winning the world champion in 2007 I prepared by doing 10' to 20,000 pull-ups per month. In the morning I was training between 6 to 10. In the evening from 15.00 to 22.00. This is a very difficult method of training. I do not recommend it. An exercise on the bar is 20 sets of 20 times, rest between sets 3 - 4 minutes. Then fingerboard, active grip 15 sets of 15 times.

Before winning in 2011, I did 3' - 5,000 per month as I increased the load using weight belts etc. Jens, you have to say that it is very difficult and dangerous. The 2007 method is hard for your heart and the technique for 2011 puts a lot of stress on the joints.


What about technical climbing training? The picture shows his climbing wall/gym.
"In February, I will start climbing 30 per cent and 70 per cent of the exercise. You would not believe, but a lot of other exercises, but they are also associated with pulling :-) I train a lot of climbing on the flash. I read a lot of literature about the concentration. This is very helpful."

 
 
2nd 8B+ in a week by Daniel Beall  Facebook
 

Daniel Beall has done

 
 
8A in Algund  Facebook
 

Tragic Waste Of Power 8a // Algund // Italy from Eglania on Vimeo.

 
 
  Facebook
 

USERNAME and James Webb have done the ultra claassic Slashface which Bernd Zangerl does it 2004

 
 
Team ABC November report  Facebook
 

Pictures and detailes of the ABC Junior trip to Hueco.

 
 
39 000 members and counting  Facebook
 

Yesterday, 8a member #39 000 signed up and 24 hours another 30 has made an account. In total, 8a members have recored more than 2 million ascents to the data base.

Logging the popular ascents takes like 10 seconds but when you log several from the same crag, it can go much faster. In 2012, we plan to make hundred of topos that will be available in Apps.

 
 
8B+ by Alberto Rocasolano  Facebook
 

Alberto Rocasolano has done the

 
 
Sharafutdinov's World Champion Training/Dedication  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"I have trained 19 years, five times a week, 6 - 7 hours."

Most of the time, Dmitry Sharafutdinov who won the Boulder World Champion in 2007 and in 2011, has been training alone on a 10 m2 boulder wall. He has a University degree in Physical Education and Sport so he is his own trainer.

"All of what I have achieved, I made myself. I think there is a big role in intuition.

In October, I analyzed my competition in 2011 and found deficiencies that need to be addressed. On December 1, started training, I plan to train only 2 months of physical training. Climbing will begin in February. "(c) Adidas-Rockstars

 
 
Little Cottonwood Episode 3  Facebook
 

Little Cottonwood Canyon Classics - Episode 3 from Wagon Productions on Vimeo.

 
 
The hardest reported boulders  Facebook
 

Here is a prelimary list for which 8C+ have been reported by 8a. Boulder routes are excluded. It is interesting that actually we have never seen an 8C+ confirmation instead in most cases, repeaters have suggested 1-3 grades lower.

1. Tonino '78, Mauro Calibani 2004
2. Shadowplay, John Gaskins (8C) 2004
3. The Story of 2 Worlds, Dave Graham (8C) 2005
4. Memento, Bernd Zangerl 2005
5. Hydrangea, Dai Koyamada 2005
6. Entlinge, Fred Nicole 2005
7. Terremer, Fred Nicole 2006
8. Anam Cara, Bernd Zangerl 2007
9. Gioia, Christian Core (8C) 2008, Adam Ondra
10. Bokassa's Frigde..., Toni Lamprecht 2009
11. The Game, Daniel Woods 2010
12. Lucid dreaming, Paul Robinson 2010
13. Terranova, Adam Ondra 2011
Here is another list with all 8C's.

 
 
Huber talks about Ondra  Facebook
 

Alexander Huber about Adam Ondra from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

 
 
Improvements of the data base  (1) Facebook
 

Once again, many volunteers have helped us improving the data base by adding sectors and spell checking etc. This has made the Tick Lists better and we are getting closer to put everything on a free App which later will be turned into a world wide topo App.

If you would like to contribute with your knowledge please send a mail to jens@8a.nu We are especially looking for guys who could help out with Rodellar, Margalef and Siurana. You will all get a free 8a La Sportiva T-shirt. We hope to produce several hundred topos including all the major crags in 2012.

 
 
La Sportiva  Facebook
 

http://www.lasportiva.com/magazine/?p=1691&lang=en

 
 
The 8C+ boulder list  Facebook
 

Here are all the boulders for which 8C+ have been mentioned.

1. Gioia by Christian Core (8C), Adam Ondra
2. Shadowplay by John Gaskins (8C)
3. The Story of 2 Worlds, Dave Graham (8C)
4. Terremer, Fred Nicole
5. Anam Cara, Bernd Zangerl
6. Memento, Bernd Zangerl
7. Tonino '78, Mauro Calibani
8. Bokassa's Frigde - Assassin Monkey and Man, Toni Lamprecht
9. Hydrangea, Dai Koyamada
The Game, Daniel Woods
Lucid dreaming, Paul Robinson
Entlinge, Fred Nicole

 
 
 
8c onsight by Klemen Becan  (1) Facebook
 

Klemen Becan reports on Facebook, "Nice beginning of the year. Another 8c a vista in Arcidona. Next time Orujo." (9a+) Last year, the Slovenian was #7 in the Boulder World Cup.

 
 
Andrada 2011 sum up  Facebook
 

Dani Andrada gives us the stats for 2011:
First Ascents = 49, 8c to 8c+/9a = 15, 8a or harder = 163 and some boulders up to 8B

 
 
9a (+) Magnus Midtbø  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbø has done Directa Open your mind, 9a (+) in Santa Linya making 2011 his best year ever including being #4 in the world championship. Here he summarizes 2011 and looks forward as well as explain his training.

 
 
8A again by Kasia Pietras  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKasia Pietras has done her second 8A during the last two weeks, Gross's Roof in Cumberland. In total, she has done eight boulders 7C and harder during the last fortnight. Kaisa is showing good progress as she did her first 7C+ in August.

 
 
First 8c+ by Gareth Parry (38)  Facebook
 

Gareth Parry who has been doing World Cups the last 17 years and who won Arco Bouldering Rock Master in 2007 has done his first 8c+, Blomu in Santa Linya. His first 8c he did when he was 35 and the last month he has done another two. Climbing is just amazing? The answer on how it is possible to continue to progress being 38 is coming up :-) Coaching & Adventures with Gaz

 
 
Two 8a+ OS by Malin Holmberg  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMalin Holmberg has onsighted two 8a+ in Geyik Bayiri, Olympus Games and Colonist. During the last week, she has also onsighted six 8a's and it should be mentioned that these stats include three personal grades.

In 2011, Malin has also done two 8a cracks placing her own gear. In 2009, the Swede won the Nordic Lead Champion.

 
 
Gerard Rull's record recovery *Interview  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGerard Rull did snap his pulley as he was trying Aitzol, 8c in Margalef. Six months later, after surgery for the pulley reconstruction, he did it and since then he has been climbing harder than ever. During the last two months he has bagged three 8c+'s and two 8b's on-sight. * In this interview in Spanish you can see his 2 last months complete tick list.

 
 
8b+ by Helena Alemán again  Facebook
 

Helena Alemán has done her tenth 8b+, China Crises in Oliana. She has also previously done five 8c' and in the game she is #4.

 
 
9a by Sébastien Bouin again  Facebook
 

Beal reports that Sébastien Bouin has repeated Chris Sharma's 50 meter Era Bella, 9a in Margalef. Just some few days ago he did Complex du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon.

 
 
9a+ by Enzo Oddo (16)  Facebook
 

Grimper reports that wonderkid Enzo Oddo has done La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana. Alex Huber put it up as an 8c+ in 1994 and then Ramonet added an extension giving it 9a+. Later on, many have confirmed that the extension does not add so much in difficulty suggesting that Hubers FA was sandbagged.

 
 
Ramonet's 8c goes to 8c+ and then 8c+/9a or 9a  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque put up La Reina del Mora in Siurana as an 8c in 2008 which he did on his fourth try. Last year Nicolas Favresse repeated it suggesting 8c+, video. Yesterday, Dani Andrada (36) blogged about his third ascent calling it "at least 8c+/9a or 9a." (c) Victor Montilla.

 
 
8B+ and 8B by Gregor Peirce (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Gregor Peirce has done The Swarm, 8B+ and Direction, 8B in Bishop. "Soooo Good! I don't think there is a better boulder. V14 and V13 today! after a 6 hour drive. This one means a lot to me."

 
 
9a by Magnus Midtbø again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbø has done Fuck the system, 9a in Santa Linya. "Now I’m ready to try something harder!" This was the sixth 9a or harder for the norwegian who was #4 in the World Champion in 2011.

Interview where he describes also his training. Yesterday, his sister Hannah did Fabelita, 8c also at Santa Linya. More pics by Henning Wang on Magnus website.

 
 
8A+ by Katja Vidmar  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her first 8A+, Petting with an alligator in Maltatal. "Another arctic expedition to Maltatal. This time no snow on the top outs. Best Christmas present ever and one of the sweetest moments of my climbing life." Video

In 2008, Katja was #2 in two World Cups and in the only one she did this year, she was #4. Katja's sister Maja won the Lead World Cup in 2007. (c) Marko Bratina

 
 
9a/+ by Seb Bouin  (4) Facebook
 

Kairn reports in french that Seb Bouin has done his third 9a or harder by doing Complexe du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon.

 
 
8c by Hannah Midtbø  (1) Facebook
 

Hannah Midtbø sister to Magnus has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya which is her home crag this winter. In 2008, Hannah was #3 in the European Boulder Championship and in 2009, she was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup.

 
 
9a by Ben Spannuth  (2) Facebook
 

Ben Spannuth has done his second 9a, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge. "World class, varied and interesting movement on perfect rock. Adam nabbed the gem of the gorge with this one."

In the comment, Ben discusses the static/dynamic technique.

 
 
9a+ by Sachi Anma  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Anma has made the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Pachamama, 9a+ in Oliana. "The best route in my life. I spend 7 days last year, 7 days this year. Harder than Papichulo. I am sooo happy."

In the World Cup 2011 he was #3 and his worst result out of nine competitions was #4! This year Sachi finished standing on the podium for the seven last World Cups and in total he has been up there 13 times but yet no victory. As a junior he won the world championship in 2006 and 2007. (c)Breceljnik Jure

 
 
8a (+) OS by Andrea Gennari Daneri (46)  Facebook
 

Andrea Gennari Daneri has onsighted La Voca de la voz in Chulilla giving it a personal grade of 8a and it total the 46 year old has onsighted six 8a's in 2011. On the same day he also onsigthed El Ramallar giving it a personal grade of 7c+.

 
 
8A by Kasia and Isabelle (18)  Facebook
 

Kasia Pietras and Isabelle Faus (18) have done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks. For Kaisa it was her first 8A, "So psyched! Fell off the last move! Was so tired but gave it my all and sent!! So psyched!"

 
 
8B by Gu and Pringle in Font  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg did today Ubik assis, 8B in Fontainebleau, (c) Baboonmaster, and so did Ethan Pringle: "Jump all the way from pinch to the top on the stand 3rd go but had to do it an easier way coming from the sit. Such a nice wall with really fun moves and sick holds. One day! AO would most def flash.

 
 
8b+ 2nd go by Matilda Söderlund (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who started the week by flashing two 8b's in Santa Linya, did today Rollito Sharma, 8b+ 2nd go.

The best possible explanation for t herecent dramatic progress of the tall, 174 cm, is that she has been climbing full time since she finished high school in June and in September she trained with guru David Macia for a month.

Tomorrow is her last day in Santa Linya and then New Year at Railay. In 2012 she hopes to do more World Cups and return to Spain. (c) Jonas Paulsson

 
 
8B+ by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has done Esperanza in Hueco Tanks which was his fifth 8B+ in 2011. "Felt amazing! Did all the moves quick, 2nd go from the start."

 
 
8B by Niccolò Ceria (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has done Vecchio Leone, 8B in Brione. "A symbol of bouldering for me. Thanks to Gabri for the day." Interview with the rising star who did The never ending story, 8B+ when he was 17 years old. On the picture he does Total Eclipse, 8A+.

 
 
Two 8b flashes by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who was #2 in the last Euro Youth Cup has flashed two 8b's in Santa Linya, Ruta del sol and Santa Linya. It is Hannah Midtbö who gave the excellent beta.

This autumn she was #3 in the Swedish Championships competing with the guys. Matilda has previously onsighted four 7c+' and two 8a's in Spain. She lives in Stockholm where almost all routes are the opposite of being long and overhanging like in Spain.

 
 
Personal grade again by Adam Ondra  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra made the headlines by flashing the confirmed 8B+ Gecko assis in Fontainebleau yesterday. Today, he wants to reduce the hype by giving it a personal grade of 8B.

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling.

One week ago he suggested a personal upgrade for Gioia to 8C+. Adam has been giving personal grades since he was 14 years old and for many of his personal best, like his first 8c+ onsight, he has not taken the easy and more prestigious way of just confirming the grades. (c) Lukás Vancura

 
 
Matteo Gambaro (37) at his peak  Facebook
 

Matteo Gambaro has onsighted yet another 8a+, Lupo de lupis in Grotti. The 37 year old has been climbing since he was 22 but this year is his best ever. "Climbing is my life and I want progress too!! 2012 is the end of the world and I must arrive at 9a and 8b OS. I am not old!"

 
 
8B+ by Daniel Beall  (2) Facebook
 

Daniel Beall has done his first 8B+, Direct North in Buttermilks. "Grades are a mystery to me, but I think this climb is probably on the soft side of 8B+. Sent by headlamp, and my camera doesn't do well in low light. : Here's video of my second to last go."

 
 
8B+ flash by Adam Ondra  (18) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra takes it yet to a new level by flashing Gecko assis, 8B+ in Fontainebleau.

 
 
8B+ FA by Robinson and movie plans  Facebook
 

Paul Robinson has made the FA of The Traphouse, 8B+, in Fontainebleau. This boulder is a direct finish of Gourmandise into Le Dernier Flu.

The ascent was filmed for the Welcome to the Hood video featuring also Gullsten, Woods and Jörg in Austria, Switzerland, Font, Red Rocks and Hueco.

 
 
8b+ by Marieta Cartró Iriarte  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarieta Cartró Iriarte has done her first 8b+, China Crisis, in Oliana. By checking her trend diagram, we should not be surprised if she will continue to progress, eventually reaching 8c in 2012.

 
 
8B's by Anthony Gullsten (19) again  Facebook
 

Anthony Gullsten did two more 8B's in Fontainebleau today, Ubik assis and L'Apparemment en départ bas. During the last 2.5 weeks he has done seven 8B´s and seven 8A+. Chatting with him asking for thoughts how come he has stepped up so lately?

"I don't know. I got lucky. It feels good to climb at the moment." Anyhow, finally he says, "Tomorrow I want to try something harder; Gecko, Kheops or Island (8B+), that's at least the ones that I am psyched on."

 
 
Ondra delivers also in Fontainebleau  (8) Facebook
 

Straight after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where, in the first two days, he flashed La Merveille, 8A (+) and Fata Morgana, 8A+ (B) for which personal grades were suggested. Furthermore, he has made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B.

 
 
8c+ by Alizee Dufraisse  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKairn reports that Alizee Dufraisse has done her first 8c+, Patinoso in Siurana which is a 40m long. She has previously done two 8c's in Céüse. Interview from 2009 with the former pole vaulter with 4.35 as personal best.

 
 
Nalle flashes 8B  Facebook
 

27crags.com reports that Nalle Hukkataival has flashed Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco Tanks which is a traverse Fred Nicole put up in 1996.

 
 
8c (b+) by Helena Alemán  Facebook
 

Helena Alemán has done T1 full equipe, 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year Helena did four 8c. There are now some 40 female who have done 8c but only a handfull have done 8c+ out of which three have done 9a.

 
 
8A by Jill Church  Facebook
 

Jill Church has done Beefy Gecko, 8A in Bishop. "First 8A so probably soft, but felt hard to me. Three heel hooks, two toe hooks and a knee bar."

 
 
David Lama makes history again  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama reports that he has done Feuertaufe, 8b in Lofer. "It offers great climbing in best wall and who’s at this level deffo has to try the route. And here’s a rating-suggestion from Hansjörg Auer and me: 7a+, 8b, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7c+, 8a (Original: 7c, 8b+, 8a+, 6b, 7b+, 8a+, 8a+).

Two weeks ago David put up a six pitcher above Cevio/Ticino including two 8b+ and two 8a+ which Pesche Wüthrich had bolted. David is one of the most gifted climber equally impressive in all disciplines. In 2006, being 16 years old, he was second in his World Cup debut. The next event he won and then he won the European Championship and in between he won his Boulder WC debut. © Rainer Eder

 
 
8B with broken foot by Parsons  (28) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons broke his foot as he kicked the car who drove away after crushing into his van. A few days later he drove back to UK from Fontainebleau and within a week he did Ken Roof, 8B in Peak District.

"It was a painful one due to my foot being broken. It took me a long time to get my shoe on. Alex had to support the bones on top of my foot as I eventually pulled my shoe on. The problem also involves a toe hook which I could not really use properly due to the pain." (c) Courtney Sanders

 
 
8B+ by Francesco Carta  Facebook
 

Franscesco Carta has after two days done Christian Core's Gandalf il grigio, 8B+ in Varaze. Andrea Gennari Daneri Editor in chief of Pareti: "This guy's got the biggest potential ever seen in our country, kinda like a new Christian Core. Never seen anywone crimping so hard, so far."Youtube video

 
 
9a+ FA by Luis Alfonso Felix (35) *Updated  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuis Alfonso Félix has done his first 9a+ with the FA of the 38 meters, 80 movements and 14 bolts, Black Block in Cuenca, after 1.5 years of projecting. The route deconstruction is: "A first part of five bolts weighting 8c+ by itself, followed by a transition zone of just one bolt with a small rest. Then, a power endurance section which brings you to the middle of the route where the 8A+ crux is." (Luis got to skip this part pulling a fixed rope during his early attempts). "After that it gets a little bit easier, being just an 8b+ to the top with a last vertical and technical part with small features for both hands and feet graded 7C Fb."

When Luis was 18 he lost half his index finger when he was climbing 7c. He has previoulsy done several 8c+ and 9a's. Spanish 8a interview with more pics by Javi Pec.

 
 
9a FA by Enzo Oddo  (3) Facebook
 

Enzo Oddo blogs about having done the FA of Salida del sol, 9a in Cantobre which was the Ultimate route at Petzl Roc Trip in 2004.

 
 
9a and 8c+'s by Jorg Verhoeven  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven reports from his trip to Red River Gorge where he did Pure Imagination, 9a and two 8c+'s. Further more, "25 routes 5.13 (7c+ to 8b) most on sight or flash. So freaking good to climb in the reds…" (c) Roman v.d. Werf

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup. This year he has participated in four events making the finals in all. Overall, he has made the podium in 23 events.

 
 
8A+ by Liam Vance (15)  Facebook
 

Liam Vance has done his second 8A+, Mandala in Bishop. "Stunning line. Dream come true! First go of the day." His first 8A+ he did when he was 14 years old.

 
 
8A by Katja Vidmar  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her second 8A, Intensive in Èrnotièe. "Super good weekend. I got wings after a good session in my project yesterday. So happy!!! Petting is next!"

Last year her personal best was 7C. In 2008, Katja was #5 in the Boulder World Cup and this year she was #4 in the only event she entered.

Katja's sister is Maja Vidmar who has been one of the leading females in the Lead World Cup as well as outdoors the last years.

 
 
8c+/9a by Gabri Moroni  (1) Facebook
 

Gabriele Moroni has done the second ascent by Adam Ondra's Masoniamoci, 8c+ in Masone.

Gabriele Moroni - Masoniamoci 8c+/9a from Granze on Vimeo.

 
 
8a OS by Jakob Heber Norum (15)  Facebook
 

Jakob Heber Norum has onsighted his first 8a, Chiquita in Misja Pec. Two days later he was #5 in the Euro Youth Cup in Kranj and this was also his result overall.

 
 
9a by Daniel Jung  (2) Facebook
 

Daniel Jung reports that he did Inga, 9a in Gorges du Loup in October.

 
 
7th 8A by David Kompatscher (18)  Facebook
 

David Kompatscher has done seven 8A boulders during the last ten weeks. His personal best being 17 years old was 7B!

 
 
Progress by Ulrike Bromberger (42)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUlrike Bromberger (42) who started climbing in 1991 is climbing better than ever as she the last two months have done two 8a's and three 7c+'. The last eight years she has made nice progress climbing some three times a week.

"I do not have a recipe, but in fact, I still see progress in my climbing career. I am happy. Let's wait an see if this was the summit. Keep going, have fun."

  2019
2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2019
2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->