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Help us structure the Crags into Areas/Big Cities  (8) Facebook
 

It is now possible to divide the 2,500 Crags into Areas/Big Cities. Here is an example for the French Crag database:

Montpellier = 20 crags with 21,000 ascents
Aix-en-Provence = 4 crags and 10,000 ascents
Avignon = 10 Crags and 17,000 ascents
Grenoble = 13 Crags and 7,000 ascents
Nice = 7 Crags and 9,000 ascents
Marseille = 4 Crags and 4,000 ascents

Please help us set up the database into more Areas, with comments or mail, and it will be easier to plan your next road trip.

 
 
4 other long videos by Gianluca Bosetti  Facebook
 

Boulder in Sardegna pt. II from gianlubos on Vimeo.

 
 
Lynn Hill: The great hang-dogging debate of 1986  Facebook
 

Before the beginning of the 1980s, hang-dogging was not allowed. If you fell, you were lowered down to the ground immediately. To hang and check the holds and sequences was considered unethical and cheating. Hang-dogging started in France and came to USA in the mid 80s. This resulted to "The great debate," a forum which Lynn Hill participated in 1986. The article is from last year's yearbook.

 
 
8Bb by Antonio Stazio (48)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureInstrapiombo reports that Antonio Stazio has done the 90 move long boulder traverse Una storia acida in Ciciu del Villar for which he proposes an 8B+ traverse grade. (8a has a policy to not report traverse grades and instead report it with like 8Bb.)

"I had to try it for two months assiduously with small overloads of 3 - 6 kg, thereby increasing the strength specifically on the right heel with small weights for the legs, so as to train the muscles that pull to hell the back leg!" (c) Diego Pirotti

 
 
240 crags with more 1000+ ascents  Facebook
 

There are now 172 crags and 68 boulder areas with more than 1,000 ascents in the 8a database. To be certain to climb the best and most popular routes and boulders you can print out a Tick List or upload the list in your mobile.

 
 
Arco Rock Master 1987 - 2010  Facebook
 

An historical article, first published in the 8a yearbook, by Nicholas Hobley. In July, the world championship will take place in Arco.

 
 
Griffith and ground-up bolting in 1981  Facebook
 

From last year's 8a yearbook, an interview with Christian Griffith on ground-up bolting in 1981.

 
 
Video "Embed" Instructions  (13) Facebook
 

To post a video in this forum.
1. Click on "Embed" and copy the code
2. Click Reply in the 8a forum
3. Click on "HTML" in the bottom of the Forum window
4. Paste it in and click Submit
We will select the best videos and present them on the first page.

 
 
Brad Weaver does 8B, A+ and A  Facebook
 

Hueco Trip from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.



And here is one Hueco Tank video from Brion Voges

 
 
Robinson crushing at Font  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring his first day Fontainebleau, Paul Robinson has done Fata Morgana Bas 8A+ (B) and Satan I Helvete Bas 8B+. "I would have to say it was one of my best days of climbing ever. This was the first day that I had felt font rock in good conditions and damn it is perfect! I have to say that Font could be the best climbing area I have ever been to and I cannot wait to continue exploring.", Paul says in his blog The second day he did Elephunk 8B.

This means he's already done three of the eleven boulders he listed as his targets before the trip. At this rate he'll soon finish the entire list. As of 2010, the only boulderer who can match his Tick List is Daniel Woods. You can recommend other boulders and projects for Paul to do in the comments! © Alex Kahn

 
 
34.000 members and 1,6 million ascents  Facebook
 

We now have 34.000 members in 8a with more than 1,6 million recorded and rated ascents. Through the Tick List function, you can search for the most popular and highest rated routes and boulders. The Tick List can also be printed and browsed quickly with a mobile phone through mobile.8a.nu.

Members can either hold a scorecard (ranking) or a logbook of their ascents. Starting from last week, you can also join as an anonymous member.

 
 
Viking Mondet flashes 8A (+) etc  (8) Facebook
 

Guillaume Glairon Mondet in Ticino-Switzerland_December 2010 from Romain WOHLGROTH on Vimeo.

 
 
7C+ for Isabelle Faus (17)  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done Good Day For Swiss Crisp Mix, 7C+ and two 7C's in Hueco Tanks. She takes the lead in the Female Junior Boulder ranking game.

 
 
Classic 7A-C's in Ticino  Facebook
 

Ticino Times: Switzerland Bouldering from Justin Donofrio on Vimeo.

 
 
Two 8A (+) by Liam Vance (14)  Facebook
 

Liam Vance has done his first two 8A (+), El Techo de Los Tres B and Diaphanous Sea in Hueco Tanks. In the Junior rankings up to 19-years-old, the 14-year-old is #14. Blogspot.

 
 
adamondrafilm.com  (5) Facebook
 

ADAM ONDRA - DER HEILIGE GRAL 9a from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

 
 
Chris Lindner FA in northern California  Facebook
 

 
 
8B (+) by Simon Parton  (5) Facebook
 

Simon Parton has done his first 8B (+), Terre de sienne in Hueco Tanks. "I was very surprised at how close I actually came to flashing it. So I rested. Got back on pulled to the first razor crimp then quickly popped to the second, screamed probably as loud as i ever have, then topped it out." As a comment he explained that his succesful training since August has paid off.

 
 
Gerome Pouvreau in India, nice :-)  Facebook
 

 
 
Mammut in Peak District  (14) Facebook
 

 
 
8A+ flash by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook
 

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has flashed La Soucoupe, 8A+ (B) in Chironico. This boulder was originally graded 8B/+. Guillaume also did Boogalagga, 8B. He is #25 in the world ranking game. He was #4 and #7 in the 2008 and 2009 Boulder WC's.

 
 
James Webb from Hueco Tanks  Facebook
 

Hueco Tanks 2010 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

 
 
Iban Larrión climbing Il Domani, 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands Boulder Guide  Facebook
 

The much anticipated guidebook for Rocklands, South Africa is now available! Find out more and order your copy of Rocklands Bouldering by Scott Noy at ClimbZA

 
 
9a by Akito Matsushima  Facebook
 

On December 18th, after two weeks of work, Akito Matsushima did Fock the System in Santa Linya. "Some holds are broken... It was really soft." In 2007, Akito was #4 in the Boulder WC and the same year he did Kinematix, 9a in Gorges du Loup.

 
 
Do climbers need evidence for ascents?  Facebook
 

Debate/Jens: Climbing is unusual, as we have few rules and basically no referees. Over the years, many climbers have been questioned. Did they really do the climb they claimed?

In some cases the accused have proved they did the ascents. Others have just not bothered. So a cloud of doubt hangs over some climbs, including some of the highest-graded ones.

Like any sport, it is natural that we have cheaters. 8a has received many complaints about lying 8a members. Our position is NOT to go live with this kind of information, or ask climbers to give proof - as long as we are not talking "world record" ascents.

The whole issue deeply humiliates the climbing community. It also puts a climber's back to the wall. Liars are typically caught anyway, when they are at the crag climbing much below what they claim.

Suppose some started questioning Sharma, Nicole, Ondra etc. Without proof, they would have been given black eyes. They would have walked away with a very bitter feeling, that could have changed their climbing lives forever.

If we demand proof, boulderers are no longer allowed to go out and push hard by themselves. When it comes to route climbing, you better have witnesses or a belayer experienced enough to swear the oath, "Nothing but the truth..." as they stand in front of the jury.

 
 
  Facebook
 

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37805

 
 
Yangshuo video by Lee Cujes  Facebook
 

Keller Rinaudo - China Climb 5.14b from Upskill Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
Recording ascents anonymously  (13) Facebook
 

During the eleven years of the 8a scorecard/logbook system, the most requested feature to add has been an option to add climbs Anonymously. This is possible through the presentation page.

However, all recorded climbs will be added to the 8a database. This is the core of what 8a is, a tool to help climbers find the best crags and routes/boulders. In the forum we do not accept anonymous comments.

 
 
Paul Robinson doing 8B+'s  Facebook
 

BD athlete Paul Robinson climbing Dreamtime (8B+) and Ninja Skills (8B+) from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

 
 
9a FA by Ethan Pringle  Facebook
 

Ethan Pringle has opened Spicy Dumpling, 9a in Yangshuo. "Thanks to Chris for the bolts and vision. Amazing route. An honor." Full report and pictures at Ethanpringle.com and Lee Cujes' blogspot.

 
 
8c+ and 9a action in Oliana  (6) Facebook
 

Jakob Schubert (19) has done Duele la realidad, 8c+ in Oliana. Dani Andrada did a notch better by doing its 30 meter extension, graded 9a. "You climb like a 10 move boulder into a knee bar no-hand rest. Then 10 easy moves to finish the 8c+. I never tried the extension but Dani told me about it. In the end of the 8c+ you have another no-hand rest, Dani stayed there for a while, so I think it's a very good one."

19-year-old Jakob was #2 in the 2010 Lead World Cup. Last week he did four boulders of 8A+ or harder in Switzerland.

 
 
Look at your fingers and get stronger  Facebook
 

Training/Jens: It is easy to lose power in your lower hand as you look up and put all your focus on sticking the next hold. Try this experiment. Look at the fingers of your lower hand, and lock off. You will be surprised how much power you have but are wasting, just because you are so focused on grabbing the next hold.

All top climbers do this automatically. It may take a lot of training before you can put your focus and power on your lower hand, as all your concentration is on landing the next hold.

While you are pushing hard it is almost impossible to remember to do this. So ask your friend to say, "Left, Right...etc".

This works best doing semi-dynamic moves from pinches and side pulls.

 
 
Sharma & Ojeda the perfect partners  (9) Facebook
 

Based on 1,000 + 1, 000 unique votes, "Rope session dream partner"? Daila and Chris are living the dream :-)

1. Chris Sharma 31% - Daila Ojeda 26%
2. Dave Graham 11% - Lynn Hill 14%
3. Dani Andrada 9% - Maja Vidmar 13%
4. Alexander Huber 7% - Sasha Digiulian 10%
5. Tommy Caldwell 7 % - Johanna Ernst 9%
6. Yuji Hirayama 6% - Nina Caprez 7%
7. Adam Ondra 6% - Alizee Dufraisse 6%
8. Steve McClure 5% - Charlotte Durif 5%
0. Others 18 % - 10 % (From the start, 14 names have been presented in each category.)

 
 
Is it OK to use knee pads and finger tape?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDebate/Jens: A lively forum discussion is taking place on whether knee pads are OK. This debate has been going on in the background since knee pads were invented. In some places, like Rumney, they can make a huge difference on the difficulty of the climb. Thus they can create conflicts and result in downgradings. (c) Megapeewee - who has recently done several 8a-8b cracks.

To say that knee pads are not OK is like saying you cannot use finger tape while crack climbing. And what about crack rubber gloves?

We think everyone should have a knee pad in their bag. Where can you buy one?

 
 
Inside curve to the next hold  Facebook
 

Training/Jens: Your centre of gravity is normally moving on a straight line between the holds. If you do a swing move to the side you are normally making your centre of gravity moving in an upside curve as you are stronger in the start of the move.

In the same way you could opt for doing an inside curve when you dynamically move upwards. This means that you should aim for a point below the next hold. This will create an inside swing to the next hold and you will climb like the best :-)

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist doing Pure Imagination, 9a in RRG  (9) Facebook
 

 
 
Grigri: Do you have the rope in the lower hand while feeding out?  Facebook
 


 
 
The same old (down)grade story again  Facebook
 

Debate/Jens: Four years ago, 8a reported an 8B+ "world record" for a 16-year-old. We also questioned whether the grade was accurate,which resulted in 50 negative comments in the forum. Today, the downgrade is confirmed by all 10 entries in the database. Some have mentioned 8A+.

Both before and after this, 8a has suggested many downgrades, causing lots of complaints. But the downgrades were confirmed later on. Today, with a more personal grade approach, the community is faster to find the correct grade. In this specific case, the downgrade might be due to a knee bar was found.

 
 
Forehand & Backhand friction squeeze  Facebook
 

Training/Jens: Gripping bigger holds from the sides (the pinkie od the index finger closest to the wall) creates often a better resting position compared with gripping straight forward. What sounds rather easy is mostly done by the experience climbers as you have to be extremely sensitive how to place/squeeze the hand as it all comes down to maximize the friction from the pads in your fingers and hands.

Further more, any good forehand or backhand friction gripping position is the result of finding the balance counterpoint with your body position.

 
 
IFSC President Olympic etc interview by extremeua.com  Facebook
 

Marco Scolaris Kiev from Medvedeva Olga on Vimeo.

 
 
Rope session male dream partner?  Facebook
 


 
 
Focus on quality climbs  (4) Facebook
 

There are 1.6 million rated ascents in the 8a data base. To find out the best climbs of any of the 2000 crags you have to click on "Stars" and a quality ranking is created. Below are a few auto links for some of the more popular crags.

In the same way you can also find the climbs with the highest index of Onsight/Flash.

 
 
8C by Paul Robinson  (3) Facebook
 

Paul Robinson has done From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C (left top out variant). Which temperature is best for you? "It all depends if there is wind, no wind anywhere from -2 to 4 is perfect. With wind that is too cold and your tips turn to glass, maybe like 7-11 with wind.

 
 
Country specific stats  Facebook
 

Here is the number of visits and (unique visitors) during the last week. France, Germany, Brazil and Australia are increasing the most:
1. Spain - 26,501 (3,579)
2. Sweden - 21,752 (2,350)
3. USA - 13,344 (1,447)
4. Germany - 9,450 (1,909)
5. Italy - 8,892 (1,973)
6. France - 7,672 (991), 7. Poland 8. Austria 9. UK 10. Brazil

 
 
Boulder session female dream partner  Facebook
 

Based on 1,100 unique votes, USA girls most wanted.
Alex Puccio - 27 %
Anna Stöhr - 23 %
Lynn Hill - 13 %
Lisa Rands - 7 %, Juliane Wurm, Alex Johnson - 6 %, Angie Payne, Akiyo Noguchi - 5 %, Others 8 %
Rope session dream partner: Male - Rope session dream partner: Female

 
 
Helena Alemán on L'espiadimonis, 8c  Facebook
 

Gerard Montero provides us with this super video of Helena Alemán climbing "L'espiadimonis", 8c in Margalef. Helena is the female ranking leader.

 
 
Boulder session male dream partner?  Facebook
 

Based on 1,400 unique votes. (Go to Female Survey)
1. Dave Graham 23 %
2. Chris Sharma 19 %
3. Fred Nicole 17 %
4. Nalle Hukkataival 11 %
5. Daniel Woods 5 % 6. Jacky Godoffe, Adam Ondra, Paul Robinson 4 % 9. Dai Koyamada, Kilian Fischhuber 2 % Others 9%

 
 
Rest at the anchor = reduce the rest  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining/Jens: In order to increase blood circulation, you should hang in the anchor and shake out before being lowered down. Otherwise, there is a risk that the downward hanging and relaxed forearm muscle will be pumped up/flooded with blood. This will decrease the circulation as it will be more difficult for the squeezed capillaries/veins to return the blood.

As you are climbing, the muscle contraction and the upward hanging arms make sure the forearms can not be flooded, unless you reach a no-hands rest. Instead, the problem is getting enough blood in your forearm muscle.

The hanging onto the anchor technique is most important to use as you have been fighting hard with no good shake outs, limited supply of blood, like it often is indoors. This will reduce the resting time before you can go up there and fight and have fun again :-) How to improve endurance while climbing.

 
 
Hot Rock in Africa  Facebook
 

Climbhotrock has been doing several big roadtrips all over the world and here is the latest report from Africa.

 
 
 
8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her fourth 8A in the last six weeks, Le Pelle left in Cresciano.

 
 
Cody Roth does the first repeat of Malvazija (8b+) 8c+ - 21 years after the FA!  (3) Facebook
 

Cody Roth has made the first repeat of Malvazija, a route Manolo opened 21 years ago in Dvigrad, Croatia. Several holds broke while Cody was working the route, and he now suggests an upgrade to 8c+!

 
 
8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods has opened Crook by the Book, 8B+ in Hueco Tanks. "Proj. behind jigsaw... amazing compression problem with one low percentage move to a split finger undercling. Took 5 days to do compared to the other Fas. More projs to do."

During this year Daniel has done eight 8B+ or harder first ascents. He is #1 in the 8a world ranking game. In April he won the World Cup in Vail, the only WC he participated in 2010.

 
 
First 9a+ by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma has done his first 9a+, the 45 m Papichulo in Oliana which was set up by Chris Sharma. "I tried 4 days. The route is really nice. I do not climb on rock so much but this route was the best for me. For me it is the hardest but i dont know how hard it is. I need more experience."

During the three last years, the 21-year-old has been number #5, #3 and #5 in the World Cup. (c) Belclimb.com

 
 
8b (+) by Andrea Hah  Facebook
 

Andrea Hah has done Staring at the sea, 8b (+) in Blue Mountains. "Yay! Now I can enjoy the Christmas feasts to come! Psyched- felt really hard and sharp but it all slowly came together, piece by piece! Great climbing."

 
 
Four 8B's in a week by Brian Antheunisse  Facebook
 

Brian Antheunisse has done Full Throttle, 8B in Hueco Tanks. That makes it four 8B's in one week!

Brian says, "Never been more psyched to top out a boulder. Fell 7 times on the last move. My hardest? End to my best week of bouldering ever."

In the Combined Junior ranking Brian is #2 after Adam Ondra.

 
 
First 8B by Jan De Smit (36)  (2) Facebook
 

Jan De Smit has done Diabolique, 8B in Hueco Tanks. In the 35+ ranking game, the 36-year-old is #3.

 
 
9a+ FA by Chris Sharma  Facebook
 

Dani Andrada reports that Chris Sharma has opened Power Inverter, 9a+ in Oliana. This was his third 9a and harder in 2010, the same number as he did in 2009. In 2008, Chris did eight 9a or harder including two 9b's.

 
 
Second and Third 8B by Brian Antheunisse (19)  (25) Facebook
 

Brian Antheunisse has done his second 8B, Naguel in Hueco Tanks. Brian is #3 in the Junior Combined ranking game. He did his first 8B when he was 17.

Update: Brian just added his third 8B, Diabolique at Hueco Tanks. Brian says, "Incredible compression line! It really is impossible to grade this. The taller you are and the stickier your kneepad is, the easier it gets. Used the original method, and actually took me quite a while."

 
 
Portia Menlove joins 8A  (4) Facebook
 

Portia Menlove has registered as a new 8a member with an ascent of Beefy gecko, 8A in Bishop. In the 8a ranking game, Portia is #5. In 2005, she was #1 in ABS Nationals.

 
 
8c by Caroline Ciavaldini  Facebook
 

James Pearson reports that Caroline Ciavaldini has done her sixth 8c, Guerre D’usure in Claret. This year, Caroline was #5 in the World Cup and in Chuncheon she was #2.

 
 
8B+ by Michele Caminati  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichele Caminati has done his fifth 8B+, The Dagger in Cresciano. "Crazy climb... monkey's style! Don't think is possible to give a proper grade to that thing. 8b+ for the time it took me but maybe easier than the ones in Font." Picture and full report at Michelecaminati.blogspot.com

 
 
9a by Said Belhaj  Facebook
 

Said Belhaj has done Esclatamasters, 9a in Perles. Ramonet put up this excellent 40 metre route back in 2006. Unfortunately, Said's future holds surgery for his index finger: he can't fully bend it, after an operation due to a rupture of the tendons.

 
 
Third 8B by Niccolò Ceria (17) in 2 weeks  (16) Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria has done Boogalagga 8B in Chironico (a stand start to Big Paw, 8C). This was his third 8B during the last two weeks. The 17-year-old is #5 in the Junior ranking game.

Here is a video of Niccolo doing the second ascent of 'Gioia stand start' a year ago. Sit start (which goes at 8C) remains unrepeated:

 
 
8B by screaming Matt Fultz (19)  (18) Facebook
 

"Fell off the last move exactly 25 times before I sent. Excellent quality!"

 
 
Upload your videos in the scorecard  (4) Facebook
 

Jan de Smit has uploaded some very nice videos of him doing hard and nice boulders. The same goes for the progress the last year for the 36-year-old.

 
 
Third 8B by Niccolò Ceria (17)  Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria has done La Proue, 8B in Cresciano. The 17-year-old is #6 in the Junior ranking game. But in a month he will be #2 after Adam Ondra, as the other guys now ahead of him will no longer be juniors.

 
 
8B+ again by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson has done the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills, 8B+ in Sobrio. "One of the best in Ticino. Vid coming soon!" During the last month, the 23-year-old has done four 8B+. Here is his blog with interesting thoughts on grading and also the full story of the ascent in arctic conditions with 12 cm snow.

 
 
8c again by Daila Ojeda  Facebook
 

Daila Ojeda has done her third 8c, Full equip in Oliana. She calls it an "incredible route." Spanish blogspot

There are now 368 ascents in the 8a database for Oliana. Quality-wise, it is among the best of 1,479 rated crags.

 
 
8a onsight etc Muriel Sarkany  (1) Facebook
 

Muriel Sarkany has had a great week. She onsighted El Latido del Miedo, 8a in Terradets. She also did another four 8a's and harder there, including Golpe de Gas, 8b. 36 years old, 153 cm, this previous multiple world champion is #4 in the ranking game.

 
 
Lucas Ménégatti (19) does 8B+ (C)  (1) Facebook
 

Lucas Ménégatti has done The Island. He confirms the personal 8B+ grade that Michele Caminati gave it. "First tried two winters ago. Maybe 6th session this year. My hardest climb yet, and one of the best." The 19-year-old has previously done nine 8B's.

 
 
8b by Eva Lopez (40)  Facebook
 

Eva Lopez has done Surprises, 8b in Jaén. The 40-year-old is #8 in the ranking game.

 
 
8a onsight by Dylan Barks (15)  Facebook
 

Dylan Barks has onsighted his first 8a, Flour Power in Red River Gorge. One year ago his personal best was 7c redpoint. We're seeing dramatic progress here!

 
 
8B (A+) by Niccolò Ceria (17)  Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria has done La Danse del Balrog, 8B (A+) in Branson, from the original start Fred Nicole used in 1992. For many years this boulder was considered the world's first 8B. Many think this is actually an elimination problem, as it is easier starting just half a metre to the side. Gabriele Moroni also did it today, in just 20 minutes.

 
 
8b+ and more by Ellen Powick (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRockandIce reports that Ellen Powick did Pipedream 8b+, Millennium 8b and one 8a+ in Maple Canyon -- all during one weekend this past summer. In total the 40 year old Canadian has done 95 routes 7c+ and harder. (c) Kolin Powick

 
 
8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  (1) Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Alphane Moon, 8A. It was her fifth in Chironico during the last 12 months.

 
 
8A+ or 8B+ by Carlo Traversi  (44) Facebook
 

Carlo Traversi has done the first repeat of Bella Luna, a boulder opened by Chris Webb-Parsons just last week. Carlo feels that the grade stands at 8A+ rather than the suggested 8B+ by Chris.

Carlo says: "Took about an hour", "Almost did it 2nd go. I don't climb 8B+ that fast, nor 8B for that matter." Chris' comments on the downgrade and more in the 8a Forum & Comments.

Update: Paul Robinson just climbed the boulder as well, in under an hour, and confirms Carlo's suggested grade. Paul says, "3rd go from start 45 mins or so. Climbs like a route. Mid to low end 8a+ seems fair for this one."

 
 
8B (+) by Frédéric Moix  (1) Facebook
 

Frédéric Moix has done Radja in Branson, for which he suggests a personal grade of 8B. Fred Nicole set up Radja in 1996. It was considered the world's first 8B+, until Dave Graham suggested 8B.

 
 
8a (+) by Muriel Sarkany (36)  (11) Facebook
 

Muriel Sarkany has done Hilti base jump, 8a (+) second go in St Cézaire. The 36-year-old is the world's most successful competition climber. Between 1997 and 2004, she won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up. "And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

 
 
The world's hardest trad slab by MacLeod  (16) Facebook
 

Dave Macleod reports he has done his most difficult slab, Die by the drop, in Glenfinnan. He suggests a grade of E10 7a (~8b+). If confirmed, that would make it the hardest trad slab in the world. All the more interesting since Dave states, "everything went wrong in the crux" and "I also know I’m an awful slab climber."

The same day Dave climbed the slab, he went to Margalef. Here is a nice video of an 8b and 8c roof climbing.

 
 
First 8B by Gregor Peirce (18)  Facebook
 

Gregor Peirce has done his first 8B, Buttermilker Sit in Bishop. The 18-year-old also did Hellamental, 8A+ in South Lake Tahoe and goes to #8 in the junior ranking game.

 
 
8B+ FA by Chris Webb-Parsons  Facebook
 

Chris Webb-Parsons has opened Bella Luna, 8B+ in Chironico. It adds six hard beginning moves (at around 8A+) to Alphane Moon, 8A. More info at his blog with also interesting thoughts on grading, "Even people like Chris Sharma (who is famous for not wanting to grade climbs) must except that numbers are necessary."

 
 
8c+ by Giuseppe Nolasco  Facebook
 

Giuseppe Nolasco has done L’Avaro, 8c+ in Tetto di Sarre. Video by Instrapiombo.

 
 
8A by Alex Puccio again  Facebook
 

Alex Puccio has done Alphane Moon, 8A in Chironico. "Only dry thing! Really fun climbing. :)" Yesterday she did Les Doigts vert, 7C+ and she regains the #1 position in the world ranking game. The last weekend she won the IMS Boulder Festival.

 
 
9a by Dani Andrada  (2) Facebook
 

Dani Andrada has returned from Petzl bolting trip to China. While there, he did an 8c+ and bolted a number of routes from 6b to 9?. Yesterday he did Era bella, 9a (which he called "incredible") in Margalef and onsighted Bud espencer, 8b.

 
 
8C FA by Berni Schwaiger again  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernhard Schwaiger has done yet another FA in Saalachtal, Whirlwind 8C. The approach took one hour wading through knee dep snow together with his girlfriend and photographer, Christina Dalla-Bona.

In total Berni has done five 8C and 13 8B+ First Ascents in Saalachtal making it one of the hard core Meccas in the world. Strangely, few top boulders have tried out the area. More amazing pics at Schwaigerbrothers.

 
 
8a+ by Tito Claudio Traversa (9) again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTito Claudio Traversa has done his second 8a+, Sarre 2000 in Tetto di Sarre. The 9-year-old is collecting pictures like the one on the left with his climbing heroes. You'll find many more in his gallery with Ondra, Usobiaga, Lama, Puigblanque etc. If his progress thus far has any value foreseeing the future, someday these guys just might be looking up to him as a climbing idol :)

 
 
9a FA by Pierre Bolliger  (1) Facebook
 

Escalade-alsace reports that Pierre Bollinger has opened Pyrrhus, 9a in Alsace. It was bolted by Yann Corby in 2006. A nice video

 
 
New Speed record on The Nose  Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Sean Leary and Dean Potter have done the 870 meters of The Nose (El Capitan, Yosemite) with record speed of 2.36.45. This means that they were 20 seconds faster than Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine last month.

 
 
9a FA by Jonathan Siegrist  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist gives a detailed report of his FA of Pure Imagination, 9a in Red River Gorge. (c) by Ethan Pringle.

As for the grade, "I base this suggestion on A) the relative difficulty of this route compared to the 14b's and 14c's at the Red I've done and B) how much effort it took me in comparison to Kryptonite (about the same number of tries at 12-15 or so). As with basically all new routes, an initial suggestion is only that - a suggestion. It could very well be easier or harder."

 
 
8A again by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Conny Matthes has done her fourth 8A in 2010, Flubber in Frankenjura. This year she has also done her first 8b+.

 
 
Progression by Sylvain Durand (37)  Facebook
 

Sylvain Durand has had an interesting development the last few years. Yesterday the 37-year-old did his fourth 8c, Progression, in Jonquasses.

 
 
Ethan Pringle is back!  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle has done Golden Ticket, 9a in Red River Gorge. During his trip he also onsighted two 8a+ and flashed two 8b's.

In 2007, Ethan was the 8a combined world ranking winner. That year he sent Realization, and suggested downgrading it to 9a. During 2009 and early 2010, he suffered from a bad shoulder injury.

 
 
8b+ by Ievgeniia Kazbekova (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIevgeniia Kazbekova has done her first 8b+, Parallel'nyj mir in Red stone. In September she won the Youth World Champion and last year, she did three 8b's.

Both her father, Serik who did an 8b in Misja Pec yesterday, and mother, Nataliya Perlova, have won Boulder World Cups. They have been very successful in the circuit for many years. Family article with pictures from last year.

 
 
The Dagger 8B (+) by Paul Robinson  (6) Facebook
 

Paul Robinson has done The Dagger in Cresciano, and grades it 8B. "Its a movie baby. 8a to 8a = ??? Hard to imagine 8b+." Now he is off for the sit start, The Story of Two Worlds, 8C (+).

 
 
8A flash by Marlene Graf  (2) Facebook
 

gwagteam.blogspot.com reports that Marlene Graf has flashed Rising Sun, 8A in Silvretta. Earlier this summer she did two 8A's and as she also has done 8A+, she might be best "unknown" female boulder in the world. Marlene works fulltime as physiotherapist in Innsbruck/Zirl.

 
 
8A flash by Niccolò Ceria (17)  Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria has done his first 8A flash, Entwash in Brione. If it would not have been for Adam Ondra, Niccolò would have been #1 out of the 17-year-old's. The Italian has done a total of 49 boulders 8A and harder.

 
 
8b+ by ranking leader Helena Alemán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHelena Alemán has done Via del Quim, 8b+ in Margalef. Her progress during the last five years is just amazing and shows that there are more to come, see diagram.

 
 
8a onsight by Eva López (39)  Facebook
 

Eva López has onsighted El Capataz Incapaz, 8a in Chulilla and she goes to #7 in the ranking...but remeber it is just a game :-)

 
 
9a by Max Eder  (2) Facebook
 

UP-climbing reports that Max Eder has repeated Klem Loskot's Intermezzo, 9a at Plombergstein from 1997, old video.

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