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The best climbing videos of 2009  (3) Facebook

Here is videoclimb.com' 2009 best climbing video ranking:

1. Antartica Expedition with the Huber brothers
2. Blockwork Orange
3. Asgard Jamming trailer
4. Bleau Open 2008
5. Centex bouldering
6. Progression Trailer
7. Underground Paradize
8. Obsession
9. A bad day for Adam Ondra
10. Nalle Hukkataiva in Rocklands

Discover the full ranking and more great climbing videos on videoclimb.com!

Make your project list for 2010  Facebook

In the scorecard, you have the possibility to make a project list for 2010. You can also add comments to remember crux sequences, rests, etc.

The best winter climbing in Europe  (11) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEvery crag has a graph showing the number of ascents each year and month. The "smiling figure" is from El Chorro which possible is one of the best climbing destination for the low budget climber since no car is needed. Other places with similar "smiling faces" are:

Sperlonga: 1h south of Rome, the crag is by the beach, under a highway!
Arico: Teneriffa, where you find several crags.
Gandia: 1h north of Alicante, several other crags in the area
Mallorca: Several crags but skip the DWS :-)
Sicily: 30 crags and multi-pitch. Ryan Air :-)
La Pedriza: 30 min north of Madrid, 6a - 7c area
Granada: Cogollos, Alfacar, Loja, Cahorros, Los Vados.
Other possible winter destinations: Geyik Bayiri, Barcelona, Southern France
Do you have any other tips for winter climbing?

8b+ again by Benedikt Hirschmann (15)  Facebook

Benedikt Hirschmann has done Big foot man, 8b+ in Schleier wasserfall. This was the third 8b+ for the 15-year-old and he is #22 in the Junior ranking.

What is most likely to happend?  (12) Facebook

Fingrar och huvudet - De svaga länkarna  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDen fysiska förklaringen till att man inte klarar ett move beror nästan alltid på att den nedre handens crimpvinkel har rätats ut då den inte har klarat av belastningen som bicepsmuskeln har skapat,

Two 8B (+) by Chuck Barrett  (1) Facebook

Chuck Barrett has done Mandala SDS in Bishop and he sticks with the 8B as suggested by the SDS FA, Tony Lamiche. Chris Sharma did the FA of the stand start for which 8B+ was speculated but now it is the most recorded 8A+ in the 8a data base and also the 8A with the highest quality star rated = 2.97. Several holds have broken since the FA in 2000.

The day after he did Spectre, 8B (+) and he keeps thanking KJ.

Highest star rated climbing areas  (2) Facebook

these are the highest rated route and boulder, kind of unknown, areas in the 8a database. Please send overview pictures for the yearbook: stromberg@8a.nu

2.0: Pfalz, 1.8: Tres Ponts, 1.7: Bohuslän
1.6: Fin del Mundo, Teverga, Skaha, Shelf Road, Montgrony, Entrepenas, Alquezar, Camarasa, Castillon, Les Concluses

2.4: Burquillo, 2.2: La Pedriza, Donner Summit 2.1: Brione, 2.0: Sintra, Mt Evans
1.9: Poudre Canyon, Way lake, 1.8: Leavenworth, Knutby, Algund, Harbak, Varazze

Upcommers 2009 & 2010  Facebook

Here are the climbers that have taken big steps in 2009: Akiyo Noguchi, Alexey Rubotsov Jain Kim, Gauthier Supper, Alexander Megos, Domen Skofic, Helena Janicot, Lukasz Dudek, Thomas Tauporn, Toru Nakajima.

8a expect the following climbers will take big steps in 2010! Katharina Posch, Paul Robinson, Enzo Oddo, Domen Skofic, Niccolo Ceria, Felix A Knaub, Isabelle Faus.

Nalle Hukkataival - The Filmmaker  (2) Facebook

Could be worse A short bouldering film (27 min) shot in Ticino, Switzerland and Maltatal, Austria. Starring Nalle Hukkataival and Kuutti Huhtikorpi.

8a members Top 10 Climbers of 2009  Facebook

At the top of your Presentation is a link to a personal questionnaire where you can list your Top 10 Climbers of 2009.

8a will, based on who the members vote for, calculate and present the 8a Community Climber of the year of which's results will have an impact on the 8a Commitee Climber of the 2009 ([Preliminary Top 100 list]).

8a Climber of the decade  (49) Facebook

1. Chris Sharma USA First Ascent Pioneer
2. David Graham USA Combined 8a ranking leader for like 7 years
3. Patxi Usobiaga ESP Lead male comp climber of the decade, 8a route ranking leader
4. Yuji Hirayama JPN Competition, Sport, Boulder and Big wall
5. Josune Bereziartu ESP 9a's, comps and Bigwall
6. Dani Andrada ESP FA Legend around Lleida, Comps
7. Kilian Fischhuber AUT Best Male Comp Boulderer, routes
8. Fred Nicole SWI Boulder Pioneer
9. Tomas Mrazek CZE Continuous in both comp and rock
10. Angela Eiter AUT 11. Steve McClure GBR, 12. Tommy Caldwell USA 13. Muriel Sarkany BEL, 14. Beth Rodden USA 15. Sandrine Levet FRA 16. Ramon Puigblanque ESP, 17. Martina Cufar SLO 18. Dai Koyamada JPN 19. Toni Lamprecht 20. Natalija Gros 21. Alexandre Chabot 22. Christian Bindhammer GER, 23. Jerome Meyer FRA, 24. John Gaskins GBR 25. Iker Pou ESP 26. Fred Rouhling SWI, 27. Bernd Zangerl AUT

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureYesterday, santa paid a visit to 8a.nu and gave out christmas presents. It appears that we weren't too naughty this year and as a christmas gift received Mammut's 8a yearbook back cover booking! You may preorder the yearbook from our webshop

We also have a 50%-off-sale of Prana clothing. Buy one and you get one for free :-) The first 3 days of the christmas week we had 86 004 visits on the global page by 13 478 unique computers (40% higher than last year!) so either we've growing fast or climbing conditions don't allow people to climb forcing them to stay inside.

Ondra story from Cresciano: 6 picrures added  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFive Frozen days in Switzerland by Vojtech Vrzba (6 more pictures added). All the 12 pictures are on rotation on the main page.

Click to make the picture bigger - The Dagger, 8B+.

The best boulder competitors ever  (3) Facebook

1. Sandrine Levet 2 275: 12 years - 1 World Champ
2. Jérôme Meyer 1 650: 12 years
3. Kilian Fischhuber 1 700: 13< years - 1 World Champ
4. Olga Bibik 1 125: 18< years
5. Anna Stöhr 1 075: 10< years - 1 World Champ
6. Christian Core 875: 18< years - 1 World Champ
7. Salavat Rakhmetov 825: 19< years - 1 World Champ
8. Yulia Abramchuk 800: 14< years - 1 World Champ
9.. Olga Shalagina 800: 12< years - 1 World Champ
10. Dmitry Sharafutdinov 700: 8< years - 1 World Champ

100/50/25 points for World Cups. 200/100/50 for World Champion. 1999 - 2009.

Overview pictures wanted  (3) Facebook

As we will present the best climbing destinations and crags in the yearbook, we are also looking for "simple" overview pictures that illustrates the type and shape of the crags. Please send overview pictures to stromberg@8a.nu. We are mainly lacking overview pictures from the crags in the southern France.

The 8B+ flash downgraded by Adam Ondra  (9) Facebook

Click to Enlarge Picture"Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can't put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can't be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don't know..."

The very "brave and humble" Adam Ondra also did The Dagger, 8B+ and Dreamtime reclimbed, 8B+ and he is #1 in both the 8a Boulder and Route ranking and his combined score is a "new world record", in spite of all hos down grading suggestions!
Picture by Vojtech Vrzba - Full story to come!

Adam Ondra Flashes 8B+  (13) Facebook

Bernartwood.cz reports that Adam Ondra has done the first ever 8B+ flash, Confessions in Cresciano. It was put up by David Graham in 2005 and has five repeats in 8a database. Adam is the preliminary 8a Climber of the year with his fifteen 9as or harder, seven 8c onsights + victory of the World Cup by a big margin.

9b(!) FA by Sharma (c) Pete O'Donovan  (41) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDeadpointmag reports that Chris Sharma has opened Neanderthal, 9b in Santa Linya. The route is 40 meters long and starts with a 20 meter left curve of 8a climbing up to a no hands rest. It then follows the centre line, sustained 9a climbing to a a hugh dyno, topping out over the lip. "It does not make any sense going for the harder (9a) start up to the no hands." You can see Chris trying the route on Big Up's Dosage 5. Tomas Mrazek has also worked the line during his recent trip to Santa Linya.

Chris has been working the amazing line on and off for two years. Now Chris continues with another 9b project, First round, First minute, at Margalef and closing it would make him neck-to-neck with Adam Ondra for being appointed 8a Climber of the year. We will also make it possible for an 8a member voting through a personal Top list in your interactive page, which will have impact on the 8a jury list.

The best lead competition climber ever  (36) Facebook

1. Muriel Sarkany BEL 3 575: 18< years 1 World C.
2. Angela Eiter AUT 3 275: 10< years 2 World C.
3. Francois Legrand FRA 2 600: 13 years 3 World C.
4. Alexandre Chabot FRA 2 575: 9 years
5. Tomas Mrazek CZE 2 225: 11< years 2 World C.
6. Liv Sansoz FRA 2 200: 11 years 2 world C.
7. Robyn Erbesfield USA 2 100: 7 years 1 World C.
8. Patxi Usobiaga ESP 1 725: 15< years 1 World C.
9. Ramon J. Puigblanque 1 700: 10< years 1 World C.
10. Maja Vidmar SLO 1 625: 10< years
11. Sandrine Levet: 1 575 12< years
12. Yuji Hirayama JPN 1 275: 17 years
13. Francois Petit FRA 1 250: 92 - 04 1 World C.
14. Susi Good SUI: 1 225 3 years 2 World C.
15. Jorg Verhoeven NED: 1 200

100/50/25 points for World Cups and World Youth. 200/100/50 for World Champion. 1989 - 2009.

1.3 million ascents in the 8a data base  Facebook

There are now 1.3 million rated ascents in the 8a data base in order to make it possible for you to find the best places and climbs for your next trip.

Two 8b's by Helena Lipenska  Facebook

Helena Lipenska has done two 8bs in Santa Linya - Mercenaris del pasat L1 and Blumo L1. Helena is the girlfriend/manager/boss/trainer of Tomas Mrazek :-)

The mental traffic light system  (16) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining/Jens: When climbing your brain is active and gives green-yellow-red light to the next move. The hard core climbers are less prone to listen to their mental brake-pedal-system, and use their physical accelerator to push pass through despite the warning (red light).
Every climber would climb 1 - 3 grades harder with a brain like Sharma or Ondra but very few climbers actually focus on the mental game even if the potential improvement is enormous. As all skills, your mental capacity is a fresh product that you have to continue training.

It is relatively easy to train your traffic light system. You just do as many "violations" as possible. Based on your rainbow, focus on moves with a slightly more reddish colour (moves that you think are possible but really hard). If you reach dark red or even purple, you will start to understand how the best climbers feel when they do a 9b crux at the top of a climb.

Crux moves optimization  (2) Facebook

Training/Jens: Falling at the same crux all the time? Write a note and put it in your chalk bag and you will get reminded. Please comment also for specific questions,

1. Physical Focus - Recruit Muscles
Recruit muscles at the upper part of the move. While falling, the muscles learn how to fail. You could use rope drag or that somebody pushes your back, taking some load of in order to recruit your muscles to complete the move. Another option is to practice by keeping the hands on the start holds and lock-of.

2. Mental Focus - Lower Hand/Bending arm/Knee-drop
Practicing yoga, you are supposed to think of specific parts of your body and relax. Instead mentally visualize taking the next move, you could have all focus on The lower hand, (maintaining the gripping position), Bending the arms or doing the Knee-drop. Start by actually looking at your fingers, arms or knees.

3. Technical Focus - Balance
Hard moves always includes balance, body position and the sideways/pull-in curve. Focus to find strong positions in the move by moving your body or opt for balance by letting one hand go.

Andrada vacation at Mallorca  (2) Facebook

Dani Andrada has over a seven week trip to Mallorca (El Museo, Es burga and Pertxas) done four 8a+ onsights out of which one FA where he said, "8a+/b". He also did another two 8b+ FA.

What is the best thing with climbing/3 votes?  (37) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on 4 600 votes:
26% - Nature & Rock
19% - Doing the projects
17% - Travel
13% - Onsight
11% - Community interaction
07% - Training
06% - Open new areas/routes
02% - Competition
It must be said that it is remarkable that only 2% have included "Competitions" out of their three votes! Is there any other sport, which as many competitions organised as in climbing, where you would find so low interest for competitions?

SA Mountain Sport Adam Ondra Interview & Arco  Facebook

An interview from his South Africa trip this summer.

Tony Lourens report from Arco.

8a 35+ Climber of 2009  (1) Facebook

A Preliminary list - Please Comment!

Teenager of 2009  Facebook

Preliminary list, please comment. Send pictures of the listed climbers to stromberg@8a.nu

8a member pictures of November  Facebook

Björn Strömberg has made the selection of the best picture of November. Please send pictures to stromberg@8a.nu for the yearbook.

10 year anniversairy sale on 8a Prana Tees  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIn a limited offer, you will get two T-shirts for the price of one. 2 Prana T-shirts = 29 Euro included world wide freight. (You can alos pay by the IBAN numbers at the top of the webshop page).

We have another four 8a Prana clothing's in the webshop and once you buy one of these for Euro 29, we will include, free of charge, the T-shirt in the picture. The Tees will be delivered directely, creating the perfect Christmas present!

Preliminary Climber of the year 2009  (1) Facebook

Very preliminary - Please comment.

SA Mountain Sport Bernd Zangerl article  Facebook

Bernd talks about his lifestyle and the repeat of From the Dirt Grows the Flower, 8C.

8a Headlines 2005 - 2009 UPDATED LINK  Facebook

Top headlines during the last five years. THE LINK HAS BEEN UPDATED!

New crag index and area cities  Facebook

As we will present the best climbing destinations in the yearbook 2009, we have simplified the Crag Index, counting only ascents * rate. We have also added a Area city in order to categorize the crags into bigger destinations. Please check it out and give comments in order to improve the crag data base.

Climbing/Bouldering destinations in Spain  (3) Facebook

These are the destinations and crags that we plan to present in the yearbook besides the ones close to Barcelona. Please send pictures to stromberg@8a.nu
Malaga: El Chorro, Desplomilandia, Grazalema, Cacin, Cahorros, Cogollos
Alicante: Sella, Gandia, Forada, Salinas, Montesa
Madrid: Cuenca, Patones, Valeria, La Pedriza, Fin del Mundo, Entrepenas, EL ESCORIAL, NAVALOSA, ZARZALEJO
Bilbao: Valdegobia, Etxauri, Teverga, Baltzola, Araotz

Climbing/BOULDERING destinations in AUT/SWI  Facebook

These are the destinations and crags that will be presented in the yearbook. Are we missing any important ones?
Zürich: Basler Jura-1031, Lehn-907, Neuhaus-487, Engelberg-395, Galerie-386, Falkenfluh-347,
South (Ticino/Lugano): MAGIC WOOD-9047, CRESCIANO-6233, CHIRONICO-5647, BRIONE-380, Ponte Brolla-848,

Innsbruck: Zillertal-2347+, Schleir Wasserfall-1126, Achleiten-662, Bürs-434, Nassereith-408, SAALACHTAL-223, SILVRETTA-165
Adlitzgraben-1734, Kanzianiberg-1105, MALTATAL-592

Answer with up to three clicks!  (2) Facebook

Dreamtime standing, 8B etc by Nalle Hukkataival  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival has done the first ascent of Dreamtime stand since the hold broke and gives it an 8B with a comment "Sit start probably a real 8C now." Dreamtime was considered the first 8C by its opener Fred Nicole in 2000 but was downgraded later. Fred has commented that the holds have improved since his first ascent.

Nalle (blog), who has done 18 boulders 8B and harder in 2009, is #2 in the 8a boulder world ranking. In the All Time High ranking he is #6 but some of the climbers above him have somewhat inflated grades in their early ascents. Pic by Michele Caminati.

7C+ thumbs-up by Alex Johnson  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Johnson has done The Vortex, 7C+ in Sasafras and marked it as "recommended" so it shows up with "thumbs-up" in her scorecard and in the data base. Alex has three 8A+ recorded boulders in her scorecard and she is #1 in both the All Time High and the Annual ranking.

Alex (20) was second in the Boulder World Cup in Vail in 2009 and in 2008 she won. Here is an old follow up interview.

Oldies 9a FA explosion in 2009  (39) Facebook

Amazing First Ascents opened by old-timers and in most cases it is actually personal best's. Climbing is the only physical sport where you can perform world-class between the ages of 13 - 52. Anybody forgotten? (There are also some 35+ "8c+/9a" personal record not listed.)

52 - Steve Haston, 9a Descente Lolita
50 - Mauritzio "Manolo" Zanolla, 9a Eternit
50 - Beat Kammerlander, 8b (+) trad Princip Hoffnung
45 - Arthur Kubista, 9a+ Der Lange Atem
42 - Francois Nicole, 9a Amazonie
40 - Yuji Hirayama, 9a The Fifth Element
39 - Fred Rouhling, 9a+ Empreinte
38 - Toni Lamprect, 8C+ Bokassa's Fridge
37 - Luca Zardini, 9a Welcome to the club
35 - Christophe Zehani, 9a Décalage vers la lumière
35 - Matteo Gambaro, 9a Azione Diretta

The most important headlines 1999-2004  (1) Facebook

Graham, Ondra, Sharma, Ethics, Grading etc.

David Graham explains down grading in 2004."I think the media did a lot more consolidating of grades than we ever did as a community of climbers."

www.8a.nu - 10 year anniversary  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJens: 10 years ago I started 8a.nu as a personal blog reporting; my First Ascents, training articles and stories from the Swedish Junior national team etc. Weekly, I also expressed opinions on chipping, competition format, grading and ethics etc.

Together with the webmaster Leif Jägerbrand, see picture, the scorecard (which promotes OS) was invented. At that time, everyone incl. the media was focusing on redpoint. Today, 1.3 million 8a ascents (55 % onsights).

The traffic and the interest from the sponsors have increased dramatically just during the last few months. Prana, Edelrid, Salewa, La Sportiva and Sterling have all signed up for one year contract. We are discussing pro-longing with Mammut & Petzl.

For the historical article in the 8a yearbook the following legends have told us to contribute: Heinz Zak (the first professional climbing photographer), Jibe Tribout, Lynn Hill, Fred Nicole, Steve McClure, Jerry Moffat, Yuji Hirayama, Alan Watts, Christian Griffith and Alex Huber etc.

And for 2010, we aim to publish the Ulimate Coffe Table book doing a road trip visting the 100 best destinations presenting the Top-500 best crags around the Globe!

Quantity or Quality by Steve McClure  (21) Facebook

Steve McClure has posted a comment regarding the 9a list, "my list of 10 9a's should really be five". The reason for this is, "some of the routes are link ups so probably not worthy of being a route in their own rite" and he continues, "some of the others mentioned are boulderproblems which lead into routes and should not really be in this list."

"It should also be noted somewhere that all of these routes (yes ALL) have not been repeated and so the grades are not confirmed at all, they are probably only about 7b+!"

The 8a policy towards quantity challenges and quality routes are exactly the same as Steve's position.

Podclimber radio  Facebook

Listen to stories from Eric Hörst who has been climbing for 30 years and who has written several Training books.

Relay: Gareth Parry to Yulia Abramchuk  Facebook

The relay started with Martina Cufar in 2005 - Natalija Gros - David Graham - Joe Kinder - Paul Robinson - Michele Caminati - Nalle Hukkataival - Garreth Parry - Yulia Abmramchuk, Boulder World champion in 2009.

9a FA by Francois Nicole (40+)  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge Pictureboulderinginfo reports that Francois Nicole has opened Amazonie, 9a in Saint-Triphon. The brother of Fred, Francoise did the FA of Bimbaluna, 9a (+) in 2004. Click on the amazing dyno picture by Fred Moix. "This rather short powerful route involves a crimpy section leading to an astonishing right-hand dyno followed by another bunch of "edgy" movements."

Francois is only climbing part time as he works as a school psychologist and teaches climbing classes. In 1987, he did his first 8b+.

The very start of sport climbing  (13) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 1978, Jacques Nosley drilled bolts manually on Dingomaniaque, 6c+ in Verdon, as he was rappelling down. Some define this as the very start of the sport climbing era. Previously, hand drilled bolts had been placed on lead by pioneers like, Lamberto Camurri.

The rappelling created a big controversy in the community but nevertheless the sport climbing ethics were quickly spread in Europe and came to USA in 1983. Picture from the French magazine, Alpinisme in 1979, the Dingomaniaque!

8a ethical policy on "world records"  (14) Facebook

It is just natural that the climbers push the ethics in search of personal best. Over the years we have seen both good and what some call a bad "development" of good practice. The media has a responsibility to give full details whenever the ethics can be questioned otherwise we will just end up of contrived quantitative records instead of remarkable quality lines! 10 quality devaluations.
1. 3-5 carabiners preclipped
2. Training/Downclimbing on onsight/flash
3. Increasing beta on onsights
4. Rappel before flash
5. Pre-placed on trad ascents
6. Adding sit-starts to routes
7. Chipping routes
8. Traverses
9. Eliminates
0. Variations/link-ups

9a explosion & 8B+ stagnation  (46) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThis speculative trend diagram presents an explosion of 9a's and an 8B+'stagnation, using original reported grades. However, most of the 8B+ and harder boulders have been or a subject of down grading, saying that the real trend is positive. Source is 8a data base and other climbing sites/magazines but is very specualtive as it does not exist anthing like official grades.

8a+ onsight by Sasha Digiulian (17)  (2) Facebook

Sasha Digiulian has onsighted Pal Sur, 8a+ at Margalef and redpointed Santa Linya, 8b in Santa Linya. 17-year-old Sasha has been an 8a climber since she was 13 and has also had success on the competition arena. In the 8a ranking she is #10.

8B again by Niccolò Ceria (16)  Facebook

Niccolò Ceria has done his second 8B, Gioia stand in Varazze. The 16-year-old was listed on the Upcommers 2010 list and after this ascent, he is also on the 2009 list. Last year, Christian Core put up Gioia with a suggested grade of 8C.

8B+ by Kensuke Hamada  Facebook

Kensuke Hamada has done Crazy Cradle, 8B+ in Higashi no kawara. "3 years. This season 4 days. Hard test piece in small local area." Kensuke is #4 in the 8a ranking.

8B+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook

Paul Robinson has the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's Lost in the Hood, 8B+ in Cowell. "Amazing move and final sequence. psyched! on the way to vegas! 2 days. will be back to AR for the projs in Jan!!!!" Paul has done five 8B's and harder the last week! Paul's blog

8A by Isabelle Faus (16)  (7) Facebook

Isabelle Faus has done her first 8A, Chbalanke in Hueco Tanks. Isabelle started climbing at 10 and this year she was #4 in the Triple Crown bouldering series. She lives in Chicago (4 hours to the nearest crag) but has been on roadtrips non-stop during the last 6 months.

Two 8B's by Brion Voges  Facebook

Brion Voges has done two 8Bs in Hueco Tanks - Full Throttle and Diabolique. Brion has had an interesting progress during the last 18 months.

Nalle Hukkataival opens a new 8B+  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival has finished his latest project in Ticino, Switzerland. The line is called Ninja Skills and the grade suggestion 8B+. "It holds about 20 moves of intense climbing. ...[name] comes from the interesting crux move in the picture along with some other crazy moves.". Source: Slouppi / Nalle's blog

Two 8B's by Paul Robinson & 8B+  (3) Facebook

Paul Robinson has done two 8B's in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch; Loved by few hated by many and the NEW anti-hero. He also flashed bloody knuckles, 8A. Paul has done seven 8B's and harder, a 9a in 2009 and he was #4 in the Vail WC. In the 8a Climber of 2009, he is preliminary #22.

Yesterday, Paul did his second 8B+ in 2009, Wood grain grippin'. "1 day like 10 tries. amazing line! new project discovered feels like a new level! amazing!!!"

8B+ by Sebastien Frigault  Facebook

Bleau.info reports that Sebastien Frigault has done Gecko assis, 8B+ in Fontainebleau.

100m 9Aa boulder traverse by Tomas Mrazek  (9) Facebook

"I finished my crazy idea. Big traverz in Santa Linya is likes 300 moves, 100metres long, 3 parts 8b+, after 8c and after 8c+.
The grade is more like a route, than name is: Santa Linya never ending story, 9a travers. "

8B+ by Adam Ondra (16)  (1) Facebook

Adam Ondra has done Barevný svìt, 8B+ in Petrohrad and is #4 in the 8a boulder ranking. He's leading the combined ranking by 1000 points currently! This was his fourth 8B+, first one being Dreamtime which he did last year in four hours.

Two 8b's onsight by Patxi Usobiaga  (1) Facebook

Patxi Usobiaga talks about his shoulder injury and two 8b's on sight in Margalef.

8B+ by Michele Caminati  Facebook

Michele Caminati has done Confessions, 8B+ in Cresciano which is the fourth and the softest of the grade he has done. Last year Michele was Top-14, three times in the Boulder World Cup.

Third 8A during a week for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her third 8A during a week in Chironico, Habe Die Ehre. "So psyched, amazing highball, crimpy 30 degree overhanging block. One of the best lines in Ticino for me."

Two 8B's by Nalle Hukkataival  Facebook

Nalle Hukkataival has done two 8B's in Maltatal, The Power of Goodbye and Wrestling with an Alligator. Both were set up as 8B+. #2 in the 8a ranking, Nalle also flashed Marmelade auf der Schulter, 8A. "Amazing problem! Very good rock."

9a by Edu Marin  (1) Facebook

Edu Marin has done Ciudad de dios, 9a in Santa Linya which is a direct version to Fabela, combing an 8c+ with an 8c. This was his fifth 9a and harder in the hugh cave and he has also done La Rambla and Kinematix. Edu is #3 in the world ranking.

8b+ flash by Tomas Mrazek  (2) Facebook

Tomas Mrazek has flashed Rock fuchs, 8b+ in Santa Linya. In 2009, Tomas has done one 9a+, four 9a's, one 8c OS and two 8b+ OS. (It was first reported as an onsight but Tomas says it was a flash since he did know where the others fell, even if he did not know about the moves.)

Not bad as he did not climb for four months due to an injury, resulting in his weakest competition result for the last seven years, only once at the podium. Tomas won the World Championship in 2003 and 2005 and has since always been Top-3 in the Lead WC.

8B's by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has done La Jonction, 8B and La Danse de Balrog (considered as the world's first 8B) for which he confirms the down grade. Guillaume was #4 in the boulder WC in 2009 where he also was #4 in the lead World Championship. In the 8a combined ranking, he is #22.

8B (+) by Mike Adams  (20) Facebook

UKclimbing reports that Mike Adams has repeated and suggested an upgrade of Serendipity to 8B+, first done by Dan varian. It is a one move 8A link-up to Serenity, 8B.

8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk again  Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Fake Pamplemousse, 8A in Brione. "Burly problem really like it, hard first move". This was her second 8A in a week.

9a or 9a+ by Mrazek and Sharma  (18) Facebook

Daila Ojeda reports (spanish): that Tomas Mrazek has done the 40m Analogica which Chris Sharma put up in November as a 9a but Tomas thought it was harder. There are previously 3 different Analogica variations graded 8c+ or 9a, in the 8a data base.

8b by Daila Ojeda  Facebook

Daila Ojeda has done another 8b in Santa Linya, Codigo norte. Daila is #12 in the female 8a ranking.

Second 8A by Anja Hodann  Facebook

Anja Hodann has done her second 8A, Teamwork in Chironico. More mother info at anja.hodann.se

8b by Simone Baechler  Facebook

Simone Baechler has done Un procès aux étoiles, 8b in Chamery where she previously has done another two 8b's.

8a+ and 8a by Cathy Wagner (44)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has done La barre à un million d'années, 8a+ and an 8a in St Léger. The 44-year-old has done four 8a+ in 2009.

8B by Niccolò Ceria (16)  (1) Facebook

Niccolò Ceria has done his first 8B, Amber in Brione. The 16-year-old has previoslu done five 8a+' out of which one is also considered as an 8B.

8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  (2) Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Le Pilier, 8A in Chironico. This was her fourth 8A in 2009.

9a by Lukasz Dudek  (1) Facebook

Lukasz Dudek has done Sanjski par extension, 9a in Misja Pec. Lukasz is #6 in the 8a ranking. "FA after hold broke, first part could be 8c+ now, bad conditions."

8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has opened American Gangster, 8B+ in Zillertal and goes to second place in the 8a world ranking. "The right exit of comorra... 2 days of work, do 2 moves of 8A+ into another 2 move 8A+. the prominant line of the bloc, crimping and one arm locking off at its finest, tall kind of scary back in tha game!"

Picture by Emi Moosburger. Here you can find more excellent pictures by him.

8A+ flash by Jernej Kruder (18)  Facebook

Jernej Kruder has flashed Sissyfuss, 8A+ in Chironico, "wtf???very easy???2 much power?good conditions???i don't know...i just did it...8a+/b in guidebook", and redpointed Wrestling with an alligator, 8B in Maltatal. Jernej has won one Euro Youth Series Speed event and gotten the Speed silver in one World Champs.

Why so few 8B+ but many 9a+'?  (58) Facebook

Discussion/Jens: Why is it that nowadays almost nobody boulders 8B+ but everybody climbs 9a and 9a+. It is just an explosion of 9a and 9a+ ascents in 2009 but less 8B+ reported than in 10 years?

8b+ and 8b's onsight by Edu Marin  Facebook

Edu Marin has escaped the Catalunia November heat in Tres Ponts where he onsighed an 8b+ and two 8b's. Edu is #3 in the 8a ranking. Edu also put up a spanish blogspot.

8b+ by Eva Lopez (39)  Facebook

Eva López (39) must have got the trick of climbing in Otiñar cause she's just bagged her second 8b+ there in the last 20 days with Momento Payaso. If ever going to climb there, remember that dogs are not allowed. Thanks!

8b+ MP by Kilian Fischhuber  (8) Facebook

Planetmountain.com has a nice and amazing report that the best Competition boulderer, Kilian Fischhuber, has repeated Des Keisers neue Kleider which is a 250m long multi-pitch route on the Wilder Kaiser.

8a+ OS by Honnold in Yangsuo and Access problems resolved  (1) Facebook

Alex Honnold, who's maybe the #1 high level versatile climber in the world, is challenging Yangshuo in China, where he has onsighted The Spanish route, 8a+ and done an 8b+ on his second go. Alex reports that Access problems in Yangshuo have been resolved :-)

Woods and Pearson do 8Bs in Maltatal  (8) Facebook

Daniel Woods has done The power of Goodbye, 8B in Maltatal and The Exploited, 8B in Zillertal. Last week he also did two 8A+s.
James Pearson has done Wrestling with an Alligator, 8B in Maltatal. The last week he also did three 8A+s.

8B and 8B+ by Romain Desgranges  (1) Facebook

Romain Desgranges reports that he has done the two Branson classics, La Danse des Balrogs and Radja, suggested to be the first 8B and 8B+ by Fred Nicole in 1995. Later, new and easier variations have been found and some say the two named boulders are eliminations, like earlier reported here on 8a. This year Romain has been #4 in two lead world cup events.

8b by Malin Holmberg again  Facebook

Malin Holmberg has done Zona 0, 8b in Siurana and onsighted Dr Feelgood, 8a in Margalef. During her five week long rod-trip malin has done eleven routes 8a- 8b.

Two 8c+ by Joey Kinder  Facebook

Joey Kinder has done two 8c+s in Terradets, La Leccion and Essencia De La Resistancia. Joey is #11 in the 8a world ranking and here is his nice blog update.

9a or 9a+ by Adam Ondra (16)  (46) Facebook

Adam Ondra has done a quick repeat of Tomas Mrazek's Xaxid Hostel in Misja Pec and he suggest a downgrade to 9a, "definitely the hardest in Misja pec. I would go rather for hard 9a than 9a+".

In 2009, Adam has done 15 routes of 9a and harder compared to 12 in 2008. The runner up in this 9a stat is Chris Sharma who did eight 9a's and harder in 2008. In 2005 and 2008, Dani Andrada recorded eight 9a's and harder.Patxi Usobiaga did six 9a's and harder in 2007.

8a onsight by Katharina Posch (15)  Facebook

Katharina Posch has onsighted her second 8a, Giljotina in Misja Pec. On Saturday, she will compete in the last Euro Youth Series, in which she has already one three out of four events. Katharina also won the World Championship this year.

8A by Anja Hodann  Facebook

Anja Hodann has done her first 8A, Le Pilier, 8A in Chironico. Before she became a mother Anja was #8 and #11 in the Boulder WC in 06 & 07. More info at AnjaHodann.se

8c by Gašper Pintar (15)  Facebook

Gašper Pintar has done his first 8c, Strelovod in Misja Pec. On Saturday he will try to improve his #4 ranking in the final Euro Youth Series in Kranj. In the same day Klemen Kejžar (19)also did Strelovod & Mising link, his first 8c & 8b+.

8b by Daila Ojeda  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda has done Chupito + cubata 3 euros, 8b in Margalef. Daila is #12 in the female 8a ranking.

She and Chris have finished their house and are now focusing on finishing some projects. Chris is getting closer on a 9a+ or 9b. Picture by Maria Torres.

8a+ flash by Chloé Graftiaux  (4) Facebook

Chloé Graftiaux has flashed Satan m'habite, 8a+ in La Turbie. She has also done two 8bs in La Turbie and Le Palais. Chloé is #17 in the female ranking.

First 8b+ flash by Christophe Zehani (35)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristophe Zehani has flashed Poésie noire, 8b+ in Les Concluses. Christophe is a superior leader of the 35+ ranking and the interesting thing is that he has had a steady progress for 10 straight years, click on the diagram. In total, he has 1 289 recorded ascents in the data base.

8B+ FA by Bernhard Schwaiger  (6) Facebook

Bernhard Schwaiger has put up Crazy Glue, 8B+ in Saalachtal. This was his 20th 8B+ or harder First Ascent. Many nice pictures as usual.

8b+ by Barbara Raudner (37)  Facebook

Three weeks ago, Barbara Raudner did Gott gegen Lisa Simpson, 8b+, at Adlitzgräben. The 37-year-old has previously done three 8cs.

9a+ FA by Tomas Mrazek  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTomas Mrazek has opened a 45m Xaxid hostel in Osp. First 20 meters of the 9a+ are around 8c+/9a. It is a hard boulder problem which, in Tomas' opinion, weights in at 8B. Then, a mediocre rest close to the end of the first pitch. After that, the route links with "Ekstaza", an 8c+/9a first ascended by Matej Sova. Tomas leaves this common section as 8c+.

Before the ascent, he also did the 4th repeat of Halupca 1978, 9a in Osp.

9a FA by Chris Sharma in Sta. Linya  Facebook

Victor Fernández reports in his section of Desnivel how Chris Sharma was recording a TV program about the problems in Santa Linya when, taking advantage of such an opportunity to show the relevance the crag has before the cameras, had a go in what ended being the FA of Analógica, 9a.


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