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Edu Marin is back on track  Facebook
 

Edu Marin who tested positive for benzoylecgonine (cocaine) on 16 June 2007 at the IFSC World Cup in Zurich Switzerland, has done some hard onsights in December; Falconetti, 8b+ as well as two 8b's. Interview with comments

 
 
Petzl Roc trip video - Red River Gorge  Facebook
 

High class 12 minutes video from Red River Gorge.

 
 
Environmental friendly 8a Chillaz T-shirt  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe T-shirt is made out of Modal, an all-natural fibre made from beach wood. By it in the webshop for Euro 30.

 
 
Robinson flashes Nagual, hard 8B  Facebook
 

Yesterday, Paul Robinson managed to flash Nagual, hard 8B after a hold broke, in Hueco Tanks, TX. This confirms Paul's position as the current #1 in the rankings. He comments in his scorecard that he's waited two years to try it, presumably because he wanted to save it for the flash.

 
 
Railay paradise is NOT lost  Facebook
 

The last issue of Climbing has a dramatic article regarding Railay/Ton sai - "PARADISE LOST". - "barbed wire, enclosing the jungle from the beachfront...", etc. Tthe article and the rumour have decreased the popularity of the world's best winter climbing resort by half. The only change is that 2-3 bars at the beach have been closed but the paradise remains. Updated/detailed info.

 
 
Sport Climbing welcomed into the Olympic Movement  Facebook
 

On December 10, the IOC Executive Board granted provisional recognition status to the IFSC. IFSC is a member of the International World Games Association. Sport Climbing premiered in The World Games in 2005 and will again feature in The World Games 2009. Notably the IFSC focus on youth was cited as a factor in the EB decision. Read more...

 
 
Keith Ladzinski Gallery  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWe have uploaded some 20 outstanding pics from www.ladzinski.com - Click to enlarge! His website is excellent and hundreds of superb pics are just waiting for you. Interview with the King of Jumar.

Do you also want to contribute with pics to the 8a yearbook that is distributed, free of charge, 22 000 copies?

 
 
India Roc Trip  Facebook
 

For the fifth year the Mumbai climbing community organises a competition and then a Roc Trip to Badami, 23/1 to 3/2. more info at girivihar.org

 
 
Midtbø climbs Estado critico, 9a (8c+)  Facebook
 

Norwegian, Magnus Midtbø (19) has repeated Estado critico, 9a (Ondra and Usobiaga have suggested downgrading to 8c+), at Siurana. Regardless of the grade, this is most likely Magnus' hardest to date. Magnus, who was 6 - 5 - 5 in his last World Cups, is #7 in the 8a world ranking.

 
 
Railay - faster and cheaper via Stockholm  (3) Facebook
 

The #1 winter climbing resort has for some reason dropped in popularity. Earlier, we have seen more climbers every year but this year it is like a 50 % drop and that is especially for the 7c and up climbers.
The possibly best option for all Europeans are to fly to Stockholm and take a charter flight directely to Krabi, 10 h. The best price in December was 220 Euros.

 
 
Don't consume too much during christmas  (27) Facebook
 

Most of the things we purchase, including food and clothes, are produced at the expense of poor people in developing countries. Either they produce the merchandise and suffer from chemicals and pesticides that are banned in the industrial world, or, they are out-competed by EU and USA who economically support they're own farms and fisheries so that "our" products are cheaper than those from the developing countries. This is free trade my friends. So, don't go wild and buy the world just because you can. Think further...

 
 
Best 8a pictures  Facebook
 

Every week, some 850 new pictures are updated in the 8a data base. Some of them are selected and you have the best pictures of the month here.

 
 
Relay interview: Hukkataival - Parry  Facebook
 

The relay started in 2005 and here goes Nalle Hukkataival vs Gareth Parry.

 
 
Mogaki repeats Hydra, 8B+  (4) Facebook
 

Keita Mogaki has repeated Dai Koyamada's Hydra, 8B+, at Shiobara. This was Keita's hardest problem to date.

 
 
Climber of 2007 (Preliminary)  (8) Facebook
 

Here is a preliminary list Top-100 of Climber of the year 2007. please give comments, information to the presentation and have impact on the list.

 
 
System Update 2007-12-18  (2) Facebook
 

2007-12-18

We are optimizing the system today this will unfortunately require 10 – 15 min downtime today around 10:30 – 12:00 (GMT +01:00)

2007-12-17

System update is now completed. Some 2.5 million rows of data where moved to a new dedicated server for our database.

Updating the system and the site will be closed from 10 am (GMT + 01:00). to approximately 1 pm am (GMT + 01:00).

/Webmaster

 
 
Mendeku, 9a, by Patxi  (11) Facebook
 

Patxi Usobiaga just keeps on trucking. This weekend, he climbed Mendeku, 9a, at Egino. This was his 6th 9a-or-harder in three weeks. His current annual score, 13270, is, of course, a record.

 
 
8c onsight by Chris Sharma  Facebook
 

Daila Ojeda reports that Chris Sharma did Digital System, 8c, onsight the other day. The route is equipped by Victor Fernandez and is in Santa Linya.

 
 
Necessary evil by Pringle  Facebook
 

Yesterday, in exceptionally cold and windy conditions, Ethan Pringle repeated Sharma's Necessary evil, 8c+, in the VRG. Pringle needed a total of four tries, during two days, to complete the route.

 
 
Cardwell climbs Dreamtime, 8B+  Facebook
 

Jon Cardwell (18), currently residing in Innsbruck, Austria, has made the umpteenth ascent of Fred Nicole's mega classic Dreamtime, 8B+, at Cresciano, Switzerland. About a month ago he did the stand-up version, and now he came back and finished the job.

 
 
Juniors/35+ Climber of the year  Facebook
 

Please post comments on our suggested list.

 
 
8a member/T-shirt  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the youngest 8a member with the new 8a baby T-shirt. Apparantely, he has already done a 2a+.

 
 
8B+ FA by Duttle in Hueco  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNick Duttle has made the FA of Sôl Adûnâmentum, a direct start to Fern roof then out Wild turkey, weighing in at hard 8B+, according to Duttle.

 
 
9a by Daniel Fuertes  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes has made the 2nd ascent of Carlos Logroño's El templo del café, 9a, in the Cuevas sector of Alquezar. This was Daniel's first of the grade. On the same day (today) he also repeated El templo del té, 8c+, which he found rather soft. Never have so many routes in the 9th grade been climbed in so few days. Is it the weather?

 
 
Yet another 9a by Patxi  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOh yes, it's time for yet another episode of the Patxi Usobiaga fairy tale. Now he's has made a second-try-of-the-day-after-one-try-in-may ascent of Esclatamaster, 9a, at Perles. We've almost lost count of all his incredible feats. Good thing we have the scorecard ;) Picture Irati Anda.

 
 
8a threatened - "legal procedures"  (2) Facebook
 

Over the years, 8a have received ideas, suggestions and complaints from our members. Sometimes we also receive threats and the last one is rather funny. It refers to the bug we have that some scorecard counters sometimes drops like 10 %. The webmaster has been working hard to fix the bug .

"If you do not solve it (dropping hits in personal scorecard counter) I will take this issue to the next instance (legal procedures)."

 
 
8 % bigger 8A Airpad - same price  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe sales and the interest for the 8A Airpad have been extraordinary which means that the producer HGB directly placed a giant order to have it manufactured in Asia. The great news are that it will be 8 % bigger and in a red colour at the same price - Buy it in the webshop 365 Euros. The first orders will be delivered January 10th. Later orders than December 18th will be delivered in March.

Other great news is that we bought a rechargable airpump for 23 Euros at a local store, 0.5 kg, see picture. It took 3 minutes to inflate the 8A Airpad. We are looking for the best option, anybody with some tips on alternative manufacturers?

 
 
8c+ 2nd go by Patxi (and Irati)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAfter an amazing last week and a half there seems to be nothing stopping Senor Usobiaga. Today he did another 8c+, Mercenaris del passat, in Santa Linya (in just two tries). He says that it is a hard 8c+ but that he's feeling incredible strong. He hopes this streak will continue.

This means he has climbed two 9a+'s, one 9a, three 8c+'s and onsighted one 8c, one 8b+ and two 8b's in the last 11 days. This is a new superior world record and the totally amazing thing is that only these last 10 ascents would give him 12 902 points, #1 in the world ranking. In the yearbook of 2007, we hope to present some of his training tips!

Picture by his girlfriend Irati Anda who today flashed Asaltin Bankis, 8a+ and redpointed La ruta del sol, 8b.

 
 
La novena enmienda, 9a+, by Patxi  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAscents of 9a-and-harder are coming so thick and fast there's almost no time to breath in between them. Today Patxi Usobiaga dispatched La novena enmienda, 9a+, in an incredible 4 tries! (he already climbed the first pitch of the route back in 2005).

This means he has climbed two 9a+'s, one 9a, two 8c+'s, one 8c onsight and one 8b+ onsight in the last 10 days. No wonder he's currently in the top of our climber of the year-list for 2007. Picture by Irati Anda.

 
 
A muerte, first 9a for MacLeod  Facebook
 

Dave MacLeod, perhaps best known as a hard core trad-climber, has made the 4th(?) ascent of Rich Simpson's A Muerte, 9a, at Siurana. This was the Scotsman's first of the grade.

 
 
Cehovin brings 8C to Slovenia  Facebook
 

Urh Čehovin has realized what he describes as his dream project. The new problem adds a proper start to his own The beginning of the end, 8B+, resulting in the 16-move The end, 8C. For a full description and pictures, check out Alpikor

 
 
Country and City specific stats  Facebook
 

1. USA 69 016 - 2. Sweden 34 461 - 3. Spain - 28 392 4. Germany 25 879 - 5. France 18 478 - 6. Austria 14 214 - 7. Italy 12 982

These are the number of visits on the global page during the last month. USA and France show the biggest proportional increase this last year. Based on official stats from Google, we had a total of 337 268 visits the last 30 days.

Most visitors by city: Stockholm, Madrid, Goteborg, Vienna, Oslo, Ljublijana, Munich, London, Helsinki, Paris, Boulder, Sydney, Barcelona, Innsbruck and Denver.

 
 
Landman climbs new 8B+  Facebook
 

Tyler Landman has done the FA of Midnight express, 8B+, at Boulder Canyon. According Tyler this was "A longstanding project that was sitting, waiting." He adds that he's "Quite pleased to hatch the canyon's hardest."

 
 
Reflexions of the WC winners  Facebook
 

Kilian Fischhuber and Patxi Usobiaga are the World Cup winners in 2007. Here are some reflections by Pietro dal Pra. - "Both are climbers firstly on rock and then on plastic. This fills us with pleasure."

 
 
Climber of 2007 (Preliminary: Juniors and 35+  Facebook
 

Preliminar list Please give comments and have impact on the list.

 
 
8c+ by Adam Ondra (14)  (2) Facebook
 

Like so many other competition climbers, Adam Ondra did some outdoor climbing while in Slovenia for the European Youth cup. At Misja Pec he made a 3rd go ascent of Ekstaza, 8c+. The day before, he managed to onsight Bitka s stalaktiti, 8b+. Adam is #4 in the world ranking but without al his downgradings he would have been #2!

 
 
Training and female Slovenian Performance  Facebook
 

Some thoughts that might explain the reason why Slovenia with less than 2 million inhabitants dominate the female WC lead circuit. #1, #4, #6 and #15.

 
 
New competition format in 2008  Facebook
 

Rumors have been confirmed by IFSC officials that the World Cup lead format is planned to be changed to flash in the qually and that time will decide the results, when there is a tie. Some participants were actually lobbying for this in Kranj. 8a have been pushing for these changes since 2003 in different articles.

 
 
Videos from Kranj WC  Facebook
 

You can now watch a resume from Blockdigital of what the finals in Kranj were all about: girls' final and boys' final. ¡Enjoy them!

 
 
5th and last European Youth Cup  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe European Youth Cup, usually finishes with a nice competition in Kranj. This year almost 200 youngsters climbed the two qualifying routes on Saturday. Here are the final results from Sunday.
88: 1. Mathilde Brumagne - Magnus Midtbö
90: 1. Natalie Berry - Gauthier Supper
92: 1. Johanna Ernst - Adam Ondra
Most superior winners in 2007 are Johanna Ernst, Jakob Schubert, Magnus Midtboe and Juliane Wurm.
Picture of Adam Ondra and Johanna Ernst, probably strong contenders in the senior WC next year, threatening the WC winners Patxi Usobiaga and Maja Vidmar.

 
 
The Slovenian wonder girls  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSlovenia has less than 2 million inhabitants, but in the WC lead they are well represented; #1 Maja Vidmar, #4 Natalija Gros, #6 Mina Markovic and #15 Lucka Franko (who was third in last WC) and we should also add Martina Cufar who started competing 10 years ago but now focus on sport climbing and Yosemite, New blog.

As strange as it might sound, but the secret seems to be that they train one by one, in small boulder gyms, 5 - 7 days a week with their trainers. Maja has won the last six WC and Natalija , with a superb webpage is the combined winner as she was #3 in the WC boulder.

Photo: Maja Vidmar in the secret room together with here trainer Roman Krajnik. Here she has trained 6-7 days a week during the last seven years, with a record of 22 straight training days.

 
 
Patxi does hard 8c+ FA  Facebook
 

Today, enjoying his 2nd consecutive year as a World Cup champion, Patxi Usobiaga went outdoors and did the FA of Faxismoaren txontxongiloak in Etxauri (Navarra-Spain) which was bolted by Ekaitz Maiz. Patxi says the route is really nice with some spectacular moves. He thinks it is 8c+, but hard for the grade. It's gotta be at least 8c to pronounce Faxismoaren txontxongiloak if you don't speak Basque.

 
 
Klemen Becan review of 8a Airpad  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe 8A Airpad review. My conclusion is that it is bigger and safer, it takes a lot less space, it takes some time to pump it but it is worth it. I guess that this will be a great success and I guess that in 2009, they will sell 1 000 Airpads. The stuntman is Miha Britovšek - "Jens, I want to go higher!" "- No, enough!" - "Aaaahhhhhh!"

 
 
New Supervariation/Combination 9b/b+/c  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRainbow creativety might be the hardest project in the world. After studying the topo from Mišja Peč and after a brainstorming session, we found the new magic rainbow line. - "This is the future of the sport. It makes everything easier. I will be the 8a world ranking leader next year". Click to see the 10 routes on about 100m2.

 
 
8a explodes  Facebook
 

There are now some 700 000 routes and boulders in the 8a database which have been added by 18 600 members. The increase in traffic this autumn has, as you might have noticed, created server problems. We have now, once again, increased the capacity. However, the cost for the server has increased 300 % in the last 18 months!

We will never charge a member fee, but we sure will make the sponsor pay more in the future ;-)

 
 
World Cup 2007 (lead)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe final results of this year's World Cup (lead) are as follows:
1. Maja Vidmar SLO (634 pts) / Patxi Usobiaga ESP (499)
2. Angela Eiter AUT (513) / Ramon Julian ESP (486)
3. Muriel Sarkany BEL (401) / Tomás Mrázek CZE (462)
4. Natalija Gros SLO (330) / Jorg Verhoeven NED (458)
5. Irati Anda ESP (329) / Flavio Crespi ITA (448)

Combined WC winners were Natalija Gros and Jorg Verhoeven.
Total results can be seen at IFSC's home page.
Picture shows Patxi Usobiaga and Irati Anda after the last world cup in Kranj.

 
 
The perfect show  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSlovenian Maja Vidmar won the last World Cup comp in Kranj in a great show where the finals took only about 2 hours and was broadcasted directly by Slovenian television. Since Angela Eiter (AUT) did not make it to the finals, Maja would win the World Cup 2007 just by climbing in the finals. Still she was motivated and finished six holds above Irati Anda (ESP) and Lucka Franko (SLO).
Among the men Cedric Lachat (SUI) was the one to take the victory with Flavio Crespi (ITA) and Tomas Mrazek (CZE) close behind. The total winner of the 2007 World Cup is Patxi Usobiaga.
Results from the competition and 2007 World Cup Lead.
Picture shows the winner of World Cup Maja Vidmar.

 
 
Woods climbs Dreamtime and more  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods, now residing in Innsbruck, seems to have adapted well to European climbing. Two days ago he repeated the classic Dreamtime, 8B+, at Cresciano. Moving up the valley to Chironico, he continued the day by making fast work of Shule des lebens, 8B as well as No mystery, La Soucoupe and Rosswell all 8A+. Add a couple of 8A's and you've got a pretty decent sending day. The day after he made a lightning fast (40 min) ascent of Shadowfax, 8B, in the same area. His performance is good news for everyone wondering about the grades over there. Daniel was actually supposed to be competing in the World Cup!

 
 
Big sensations in the semi  (2) Facebook
 

Angela Eiter, Ramon Julian Puigblanque and Patxi Usobiaga did not make the finals. This means that Maja Vidmar has alreay secured the title. 163 cm long 16-year-old Jakob Schubert made it through.I f Jorg Verhoeven wins tomorrow he will take the title from Patxi.

From one of the not so happy climbers missing a clip being disqualified - Fuck the system! This was my last competition. From his sister - In is in the rule book, dummy! Actually, five of the first eight were called down due to clipping violation. Results

 
 
Final World Cup in Kranj  (2) Facebook
 

The seventh and the final stage of the Lead World Cup in 2007, takes place, as always, in Kranj, Slovenia. 8a will cover the event and demonstrate the inflatable Air pad. The battles stand between Patxi and Ramonet + Maja and Angela. A total of 91 athletes are registered which is positive news for our sport. The final will be broadcasted live on television which guarantees fast action that you can see live on sunday 16.55

 
 
 
Shawn Diamond is back  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShawn Diamond who suffers from Crohns Disease which is an auto-immune disorder of the intestines., has done Mandala SDS, 8B+ in Buttermilks. Shawn is #7 in the boulder world ranking. Interview in Climbing. Picture by JM Casanova.

 
 
Paul Robinson takes the ranking lead  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week, Paul Robinson did Esperanza, 8B+ in Hueco Tanks plus two 8B's. Slashface, 8B he did in one hour!

Paul, who has done a total of 25 boulders 8B and harder in 2007 is the new world rankng leader with 3 points ahead of Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada. Relay interview with Paul Robinson

Paul extended his lead yesterday by flashing Nagual, 8B in Hueco Tanks.

 
 
First 8b+ OS by Said Belhaj  Facebook
 

Said Belhaj has been climbing with Andrada and Sharma for a month in Spain and he has totally onsighted 20+ 8a's and harder including three 8b's. Yesterday, he onsighted his first 8b+, Falconetti in Montsant.

 
 
Josh Haynes sends in Hueco  Facebook
 

Josh Haynes has the last week done Esperanza 8B+, Nagual 8B, and Flamignon 8B in Hueco Tanks.

 
 
Three 7C+ by Kelly McBride  (1) Facebook
 

Kelly Mc Bride has during the last 8 days done three 7C+ in Bishop.

 
 
8B+ and 8B by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods(17) has done another 8B+, Midnight Express at Castle Rock. The #2 in the world ranking also did a 8B the other day.

 
 
8B by Nalle Hukkataival  Facebook
 

Nalle Hukkataival has done Einfisch Kleinfisch, 8B in Chironico and another four 8A and harder, the last week. Nalle, who was #8 in the World cup this year is #7 in the 8A ranking.

 
 
World's first 8c+ onsight by Patxi!  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt was only a matter of time and now he's done it. Yesterday, Patxi Usobiaga made the FA of Bizi Euskaraz at Etxauri, and he did it onsight. He thinks it warrants a grade of 8c+, which, if confirmed, is a world's first.
Bizi Euskaraz is located in Etxauri, a crag in the Navarra region of Spain. The route was bolted by Ekaitz Maiz four years ago and has been an open project since then, despite the efforts of strong climbers. Ekaitz Maiz and Gorka Karapeto were present during the historical ascent and endorse the grade proposed by Patxi.
During the last few weeks Patxi has singlehandedly taken climbing to a new level by redpointing 9a+'s and 9a's in few tries, and now this. Incredible is an understatement! Patxi is now miles ahead of anyone else in the rankings. Pic: Zigor Arteaga. New video of Patxi in La Rambla.

 
 
Fuck the system, 9a by Patxi Usobiaga  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnd here's one more... Patxi Usobiaga, returning to Sta. Linya after presenting a deep water soloing video in the Basque Country (trailer), has made in five goes today the FA of Daniel Andrada's route Fuck the system, for which he proposes 9a.

In Patxi's words: "It seemed a very difficult route to me, very physical which doesn't favours my qualities. It's been the route for which I needed more effort among these I've done the last days. It can be 9a, but let's see what the future repetitors think".

You can see in Katuoinak.tv the video of Patxi in La Rambla. Pic: Irati Anda.

 
 
Mayan Smith-Gobat does Geminis, 8b+  Facebook
 

Mayan Smith-Gobat has done her first 8b+, Geminis in Rodellar. Mayan seems to be in nice shape as she also onsighted Colliseum, 8a and two 7c+.

 
 
Rouhling climbs Salamandre, 9  (6) Facebook
 

Fred Rouhling has once again climbed an extreme route in the 9th grade. His latest, Salamandre, features an 8A+ half-pad mono crux after about 15 meters followed by 8b+ climbing. Due to the very specific crux, Fred had to do specialzed training á la Güllich.
"About the grade, if it's necessary to talk about it, I think it's a new route somewhere in the 9 range. I think that the grades are very personal and subjective. My references maybe come from a more severe period, even in an old school sandbag place like Buoux they tend to upgrade. Salamandre is among my most extreme routes. Concerning De l'autre cote du ciel and Mandallaz Drive, most of the strong climbers who have tried them tend to think that they are more 9a+. I don't know but I really prefer to keep in mind the uncertainty of such an ascent more than a grade emptied of any substance. Salamandre is very hard, very force specific, and very very.. what I wanted to do these times!"
Pictures at Fred Moix' site.

 
 
New 9a by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Ramon Julian Puigblanque has done a new 9a, M.ALBA in Savassona. Ramonet is #5 in the world ranking.

 
 
8b, 8b+ and 8c on-sight in one day by Patxi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga is still in Catalonia (Spain) and today he visited Racó de Misa in Montsant.

His on-sight feast started with La Esclava del Temps, 60m 8b and bolted by Toni Arbonés; then, he did an FA, also on-sight, when solving David Brascó's last project in the sector called Variante Monocroma, proposing 8c for it as he felt it way harder than Falconetti, L-Mens and Hidrofobia (all three 8b+). At the end of the day, and in the same style, he fired-off the above mentioned Falconetti, 8b+ which he thought was easy for the grade.

The score from the last seven days is a new world record and only these ascents would almost make him the world ranking leader - AMAZING! It seems like he is in better shape than any climber has ever been!

 
 
9a+ by Sharma in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Victor Fernández, the guy who has bolted about the half of the routes in Santa Linya (Lleida - Spain), has just informed us that Chris Sharma today sent La novena enmienda, 9a+. Not bad since we've heard that he's feeling kinda "heavy"... Youtube when Chris is training and taking a hugh fall.

 
 
Jakob Schubert onsights 8b  (8) Facebook
 

Jakob Schubert (17) was #4 in the last World Cup in Kranj but only #6 one week after in European Youth Cup. One reason for this is four hard climbing days in a row in Misja Pec where he the fourth day onsighted Mrtvaski Ples, 8b and also did Corrida, 8c.

 
 
Patxi Usobiaga sends La Rambla, 9a+!!  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga have just sent La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana, after just 2 tries yesterday and the definitive one today, apart from some 6 tries some years ago. And that's not all.

He also made a 2nd go(!) ascent of Estado crítico, which he suggests, like Adam Ondra, should be 8c+. Wow, he seems to be unstoppable! Picture by LORE AGIRREZABAL

 
 
Another 8c+ by Patxilín  Facebook
 

Patxi Usobiaga has during the last days translated his WC performance to the crags, sending two 8c+ FA in two days. The 1st one we reported earlier and the 2nd one was Kidetasunaren balio erantzia, also bolted by Ekaitz Maiz in Etxauri. Patxi comments were: "a line of superb beauty, it is a little overhanging with tiny holds and really far apart bolts". He's got some doubts about the difficulty (8c?) but awaits the opinion of someone who repeats it.

 
 
Three boulders 7C+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Alex Puccio (18) has done three boulders 7C+ in Joes Valley, rather fast it actually seems.

 
 
Ramonet repeats Definición de resistencia demócrata  (1) Facebook
 

Ramón Julián Puigblanqué has repeated Definición de resistencia demócrata which he apparentely thought was pretty soft as he suggests down grading to 9a. In any case, he says: "9a or 9a+ will be confirmed in the future... pure power endurance". Ramonet is #4 in the world ranking but he would have been #3 if he'd have chosen to register the route as 9a+.

 
 
8a reports mobile live  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe future is already here. The last three pics from Slovenia were actually taken by mobile phone and directly sent via the internet. Today 8a reports mobile live from Misja Pec where Magnus Midtbo flashed Marjetica, 8b+ and redpointed Corrida, 8c. Stay tuned for more action tomorrow.

Jakob Schubert did also flash the route which maybe is just 8b.

 
 
Alien Carnage - 8c+ for Kévin Aglaé (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week-end, Kévin Aglaé from Nice was back to Castillon (France) to try his winter project, Alien Carnage, 8c+. It became a fall send !

It's his first 8c+ and two years ago he was making his first steps in 8th grade. Sure, he will soon find the key to open the 9th door.

Read more at www.nice-climb.com, and on french page.

Photo Phil Maurel from nice-climb.com

 
 
8b+ by Daila Ojeda  (2) Facebook
 

Daila Ojeda has done Kaleborroca, 8b+ in Siurana. Daila is back in Spain after spending some months with Chris Sharma in the USA.

 
 
Two 8b by Emily Harrington  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEmily Harrington has done two 8b in two days, Slice of life and Huge in Rifle. Emily is #4 in the female ranking.

 
 
8A+ OS by James Pearson  (1) Facebook
 

James Pearson has onsighted Sussyfuss, 8A+ in Chironico. Nobody has onsighted an 8B but some say Sussyfuss is 8B so we are getting closer! We also got a report that Nalle Hukkataival flashed the nice problem.

 
 
Eva Lopez and 'Ola' do Geminis, 8b+ (b) or (c)  (21) Facebook
 

Eva Lopez (36) has also done Geminis and suggests further downgrading - "Not 8b+, not 8b, YES 8b/+."

Alexandra Taistra has done the very popular Geminis in Rodellar and confirms the suggested down grading to 8b+. 'Ola' has previously done three 8c and, coming down, she stated - "It can never be 8c!" News by her trainer, Sebastian Wutke.

 
 
Three 8a+ onsight by 12-year-old  Facebook
 

Geoffray De Flaugergues (12) has done three 8a+ onsight in Spain out of which Domador de Amor Tiguadores in Masruidoms is 55 meter long.

 
 
8b by Jarmilla Tyrill  Facebook
 

Jarmilla Tyrill has done Don't believe the hype, 8b in Blue Mountains. Jarmilla is #9 in the world ranking only based on redpoint ascents.

 
 
El Intento and El Calvario by Luis A. Félix  (1) Facebook
 

Luis A. Félix from Spain is showing good form lately. Just one week ago he fired off El Intento, 8c+ in Cuenca, and today he's ticked El Calvario, a hard 8c after some holds have broken, also in Cuenca.

 
 
8b+ OS by Patxilín  Facebook
 

Patxi Usobiaga has made his 22nd 8b+-or-harder onsight with Rage the Antonio machine in El Convento (Arava-Spain). This weekend Patxi will compete in the last WC in Kranj to try to defend his title from 2006. He leads by 13 points over Ramonet. Pics at Patxiusobiaga.com.

 
 
9b by Dani Andrada  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDani Andrada has climbed the longest possible route in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar, the sit-start of the Ali Hulk extension, 9b. On Dani's words: "9a+ and 8b+ endurance or hard 8c+ and hard 8c+... interesting...". Picture of Ali Baba cave by Carlos Cabrera

 
 
8b by Itziar Rodriguez  Facebook
 

Itziar Rodriguez has done Ongi Etorri, 8b in Baltzola. This was the first 8b by Itziar.

 
 
8b+ for Mariona Marti  Facebook
 

Mariona Marti, always very motivated, sent Kaleo Borroca, 8b+ in Siurana (Spain). Here is a video of Mariona in the route filmed by Laurent Triay. Today, we also has put up his latest fim in the webshop for only 18 Euro included freight.

 
 
8b+ by Maja Vidmar  Facebook
 

Maja Vidmar who has won the last five World Cup is back in Slovenia and Misja pec, where she yesterday did Kaj ti je deklica, 8b+. Maja is #3 in the female ranking. Last year Maja was #8 'Climber of the year' but this year she will be higher up.

 
 
7C+ (8A) by Jacinda Hunter  Facebook
 

Jacinda Hunter has done Negro Negro in Triassic and she suggests downgrading to 7C+. Jacinda who is #2 in the 8A boulder ranking is 28 and mother of four children!

 
 
12-year-old does 8b and 8a OS  Facebook
 

David Firnenburg (12) has been on a nice holiday at Mallorca where he onsighted Fotball fan, 8a at Fraguel and redpointed Odissy, 8b at Les Perxes. The world record holder for 12-year-old, Adam Ondra onsighted several 8b's and redpointed 8c+.

 
 
Total Brutal flashed by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

The american Daniel Woods has flashed Total Brutal, the most famous route at Zillertal (Austria). This very short 8b+ fits his boulder skills very well.

 
 
Another 8c+ by Dave Graham  Facebook
 

Dave Graham has done his ninth 8c+ this year, Stockboy Revenge in Rifle. Totally Dave has done 38 routes 8c+ and harder.

 
 
8b by Corrie Eldrid  (1) Facebook
 

Corrie Eldrid has done her second 8b, Swingline at Red River Gorge.

 
 
Dai climbs Longbow, 8B+  Facebook
 

Nothing's stopping Dai Koyamada. Yesterday he repeatd Markus Windisch's roof climbing testpiece Longbow, 8B+, after two days of work. Now we're only waiting for Dai to dispatch Gossip, 8C, and his ultimate goal for the trip Corona, 9a+, and he'll have no reason to return to the FJ;)

 
 
Three 8c+'s in ten days by Gabri Moroni  Facebook
 

Gabriel Moroni has over the last 10 days done three 8c+: SS26 (previously graded 9a) at Gressoney, Shan-gri-la in the Frankenjura and Zauberfee in Arco. Gabri reports that 'uncle' Cristian Brenna also did Zauberfee the same day.

 
 
9a FA by Cedric Lo Piccolo  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picturenice-climb.com reports that Cedric Lo Piccolo has put up a new 9a in Carros. The route was bolted by Axel Franco in 1998. (c) by P Maurel.

 
 
8A by Sabine Bacher  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSabine Bacher has done her first 8A, Stick it in Tumpen bloc. Sabine is #2 in the boulder ranking. In February, Sabine from Austria was #6 in the European Boulder championship.

Picture by Heiko Wilhelm from Tulpen. Another eight nice pictures in her Gallery.

 
 
8c(+)'s by Patxi Usobiaga  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga has done two 8c+'s in the Balzola cave but he only gives them 8c. However, Güenga he prolonged with Hasta sanson (8b) making it an 8c+. Patxi is the 8a world ranking leader and in the IFSC competition ranking he is #2. Picture by his girlfriend Irati Anda.

 
 
9a by Ekaitz Maiz  Facebook
 

This Vasque has been busy lately, repeating three of the lines which he has bolted, Begi Puntuan, 9a in Etxauri, Ekaitza y Nafarroa and Euckal Herriaren bihotza in Eulate, both 8b+.
Later in Rodellar he fired off two 8a's and one 8a+(Aporia) onsight. Source: Desnivel. If Ekaitz would put together all his routes in a scorecard he would be knocking on the Top-10 door.

 
 
9a+ by Vasya Vorotnikov  (3) Facebook
 

Vasya Vorotnikov has done Jaws II which is the new Jaws after the holds have broken. Vasya has put 35 days on it and suggests 9a+ even if he has not done 9a previously. If confirmed, Jaws II, rivals Tommy Caldwells Flex Luthor for the hardest in the country crown.

 
 
8a OS and 8b rp by Olena Ostapenko  Facebook
 

Olena Ostapenko has onsighted Argo, 8a and redpointed Gladiator, 8b in Rodellar. Olena from Ukraine is #8 in the world ranking.

 
 
8b+ and 8b's OS by Ethan Pringle  Facebook
 

Ethan Pringle seems to be in super shape now, onsighting more or less everything he tries in Rodellar. Yesterday he onsighted Pequena Estrella, 8b+ and the day before two 8b's. In the last five days Ethan has onsighted six 8b's and harder and redpointed an 8c+. A new world record might be coming up.

 
 
9a goes to 8c+ by Gabri Moroni  Facebook
 

Gabri Moroni has done the first repeat of the Alberto Gnerro's SS 26 in Gressoney. Gabri registered as an 8c+ which means downgrading of the 3-star, 40 meters all natural line.

 
 
Ethan Pringle - new world record?  (1) Facebook
 

If there where such thing as Top-10 in ten days, Ethan would have had the world record. In Rodellar last week, he sent 8c+, 8c, 8b+ OS, 8b+ F, 8b+, 8b+, 8b OS, 8b, 8a+ OS, and 8a OS. It should be mentioned that he down graded four of these routes. But, as Ethan Pringle only has a log-book, which means no score, no ranking, and... no world record (hehe)!

 
 
More downgrading in Rodellar  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods has made a quick 6th ascent of Dave Graham's "Los Borrachos del Mascun" in Rodellar, suggesting downgrading to 8c+. Ethan Pringle also repeated it two days ago, saying it is an 8c+. Dave Graham confirms that in retroperspective the 9a grade was false. "I actually thought it was 8c+ since it was 30 degrees outside (hence the hard remark) but was convinced by local climbers that it must be 9a".

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