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News   Numbers   Year
11000 members  Facebook

During 85 days we have received a record high of more than 1000 new members. This means that we are expecting a total of 17 000 members at the end of 2006, according to the new trend.

Railay one year after  Facebook

The tsunami that hit Asia last year affeceted Railay very mild and we could almost immediately report to the climbing community
'...but no climbers have been reported seriously injured.'

Today everything is back to normal and there is no signs what so ever of the tsunami. In fact, there is more people and climbers this year and the new internet cafe, located in a small hut by the beach, has a much better panorama disturbing guys at work.

Pic by Sam Nicols who were washed into the DJ room of Freedom bar

Technical problems & Panic  Facebook

After 36 hours of tecnical problems at 8a, including messages to us where it has been stated that 'the 8a.nu domain is available for registration', the panic has arisen that the reason is a forgotten invoice. Luckily it was a problem with our webhotel ;)

Merry Christmas & Happy New 2006  Facebook

[What has happend in 2005 and what will happend in 2006].

8c by Martina Cufar  Facebook

Martina Cufar has done her first 8c, Vizija in Misja Pec. Martina, who won the world championship in 2001 and have done 150 8a's and harder, is #2 in the female ranking and here is her blog about the 8c ascent,

New records and 8a Tee on sale  Facebook

Last week we had some 30 000 visits by 14 300 unique browsers, measured by independent source. This is more than 40 % higher than last year.

We have understood that there is a great interest of a premium quality 8a Tee. In cooperation with Peak Performance you can find the Tee in our webshop. All top World Cup climbers, who are 8a members, have already got one.

Internet dating & Sponsor  Facebook

It has been confirmed that 8a has successfully been used for internet dating ;) We have also been asked to put in a 'Single' checkbox. Further more, at least three companies have used 8a in order to find new athletes to sponsor. Great news!

Upload and get new pics  Facebook

Everytime you click on our 8a logo you will get new pics and articles (Send in pics and we will put the best in the automatic rotation) - our webmaster is in the zone ;)

The webmaster has been on it again...  Facebook

This time Jonas Emanuelsson has improved and simplified the navigation and created a new message system - Check your inbox and get further instructions from the webmaster. Any comments or suggestions?

Next to come, which will speed up surfing 8a, are; (January)
1. A complete new scorecard available in 12 different languages with better layout
2. Availability to put in projects and the creation of a betabank
3. A webshop where we will sell 8a tees and other products
4. 8a contribution members

Report local news...  Facebook

In order to increase the interaction on country sites - Report your local news through 'Comments'. Editors, please translate! Important news will be published.

Interview with Josune & Rikar  Facebook

Very proudly we present a very interesting interview with Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi made by our spanish adminstrator Ignacio Sandoval Buron who has been working for free for 8a.nu for four years now.
Josune Bereziartu, who is #9 in the All time high ranking, reveals that she lives from insurance money and that the many hours in isolation made her stop competing and that she favours flash.

Tips & Tricks  Facebook

Almost every time you climb you learn new Tricks that make some procedures safer or easier. Most of them you just pick up from a friend or from the community. 'Comment' your best Trick - Here are some of ours:
1. While cleaning a steep route it is very important that the belayer moves backwards in order to pull in the climber.
2. While cleaning a route sliding down the rope, put the lower carabin in the rope and the upper in the harness. This will wear less on the rope.
3. If you have problems with cold hands, you can buy different types of 'heaters'. You can also use a sweatshirt with a 'stomach-pocket' to put your hands in before and during climbing.

Climber of 2005  Facebook

This is our preliminary list - Climber (Junior) of the year 2005, where we both value performances but also contributions to the community as creating inspiration and putting up new Climbs (FA) etc. What do you think?

1. Dani Andrada - Charlotte Durif
2. Josune Bereziartu - David Lama
3. Angela Eiter - Magnus Midtbö
4. Tomas Mrazek - Adam Ondra
5. David Graham - Barbara Zangerl
6. Dai Koyamada - Daniel Woods
7. Jorg Verhoeven - Nalle Hukkataival
8. Kilian Fischhuber - Anna Stöhr
9. Tommy Caldwell - Gabri Moroni
0. Fabi Christof - Yuka Kobayashi

Unified grading?  Facebook

The grand unified theory of everything, but especially bouldering is a short article about... Why don't you see for yourself? Please feel free to share your views with the rest of us!

8a contributing members  Facebook

8a is based on climbing community interaction such as; Adding - Climbs, Pictures, Blogs, Comments, Forum replies, Crags, Messages, Articles, Country news incl. translations and putting up First Ascents (FA) etc. Most info come from 20 editors throughout the world and another 150 very active members - Thank you!

The contribution activity will be measured and we hope to start giving away products from our sponsors to our 'gold members'. We would also like to honour all those First Ascentionists like Sam Lightner and get quicker info regarding all the new climbs that are beeing developed. Who has put up more than 1 000 climbs?

European Youth Cup  Facebook

The fifth and last leg of the European Youth Cup took place in Kranj this weekend. The most superior overall winner was David Lama - 90 with four wins followed by Magnus Midtbö Mina Markovic and Charlotte Durif - 90 with three victories. Complete results

Another 9a FA by Andrada  Facebook

The new place to be in Spain seems to be Santana, where Dani Andrada has put up a new 9a, Overblomu. Reports tell us that this might be another Mecka in the vicinity of Lleida where Dani lives.

8b+ onsight by Mrazek  Facebook

TomᚠMrázek has done what could have been his second 8c onsight, La teoria dell 8a in the Sperlonga cave near Rome. Tomas tells us that the route is 25 meter long and 15 meter overhanging. Apparently the route was originally graded 8c, but has now come down to 8b+.Interview with the climber of 2004who is currently #2 in the world ranking.

Yalta, climbing in Ukraine  Facebook

Mr 8a, Jens Larsen, recently spend two weeks in Yalta with 5 other climbers, getting a taste of the life and climbing in Ukraine. Read Jens' short review of the [trip to Yalta]. The trip was sponsered by c2safety.

Crespi & Eiter win in Kranj & WC 2005  Facebook

Grand final in Kranj - Angela Eiter was last out in the final as she was the only one to top-out in the semi-final and the superior queen of World Cup 2005 did it again with a smashing top-out. Angela is the most superior winner ever (old interview) in WC's, only beaten once out of nine participations, that time by the runner up Maja Vidmar. Three out of the top-5 female climbers in the worls are from Slovenia.

In Kranj, Flavio Crespi topped-out all three routes in the final and won ahead of Jorg Verhoeven, repeating his win in the WC 2005. Interview is coming up.

Eiter & Crespi lead in Kranj  Facebook

Angela Eiter and Flavio Crespi are in the lead after the semi in Kranj and they have already secured the victory of the World Cup 2005 WC KRANJ

8b+ by 59-year-old & 60  Facebook

Climbing.com reports that Lee Sheftel (59) has done The whole shot, 8b+, in Maple Canyon. This is not a new world record as we have recieved new information that there's a 60-year-old who has done an 8b+. Very interesting is that humans can perform on their maximum in climbing for at least 49 years, from 11 (Adam Ondra) to 60. In this context, climbing is unique;)

500 new members during one month  Facebook

New records is registered almost every week and the last 30 days we have received more than 500 new members. One reason is our Russia/Ukraine pages which are updated daily. Ðåãèñòðàöèÿ - Spaziba! Soon, personal scorecards will be available in 14 languages. Latest blog of Maxim Petrenko - Ukraine, #4 in World Cup 2004.

Chabot is back in the French team  Facebook

Alex Chabot, who has had a conflict with the French federation, is once again back on the team for the last event in Kranj coming up next weekend. Another goods news for him is that he has done four 8b's and hader in Krontal this weekend.

Grading scales  Facebook

How to convert local grades, is a common question to 8a and here is the grade conversion we use and recommend. We have also made a diagram of how to compare the difficulty of boulder and route grades.

Updates & ranking online at Climbing.com  Facebook

8a provides Updates & Ranking to www.climbing.com and seven other websites throughout the world. Do you also want to paste your country specific 8a updates at your website? - jens@8a.nu

European Youth Cup in Italy  Facebook

Results from four stage of Youth European Cup. Male winners; Anthony Sapey, David Lamaand Magnus Midtbö are 8a members. Magnus, who was #6 in last WC, seems to be the best competition junior of 2005.

Scorecard development  Facebook

The webmaster is almost ready with the new scorecard system which above all will speed up the site. Further more, adding climbs will be faster and the userfriendliness will be improved be selecting basic or advanced user level as well local languages. Please forward any ideas and suggestions! - 'Comment'

FAQ, Shortcuts and Help  Facebook

More features are constantly added and we are working with an article with Tips & Tricks for the userfriendliness. Please forward ??? to jens@8a.nu. Here are some frequent FAQ's.
Trad: A traditional route protected only by nuts and friends.
2:Go: The attempt after OS/Flash/Hang-dog (Trying moves)
FA: A First Ascent of a new climb nobody have done before.
My Updates: Log-in & Select automatic updated scorecard.
Log-book: Select membership without score and ranking.
Local editor: Everyone is invited to contribute - No demands!

8a interview in Climbing magazine  Facebook

In the latest issue of Climbing there is an interview with Jens Larssen, founder of 8a. Climbing offers 8a visitors a special deal on their magazine: 22 Euro for 9 issues/year.

8b OS & three 8c's by Ondra (12)  Facebook

Adam Ondra , 12, has done Matièkov svet, 8b onsight and climbed three more 8c's in Slovenia. Two of them Osapski pajek and Vizija went 2nd go, and the tird one, Konec mira was an 8c/+. Adam is #9 in the world ranking.

Editors in 15 countries  Facebook

Active editors are found in Austria, Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Polen, Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland, Sweden, UK, Ukraine/Russia and USA. We welcome more both for existing countries and new countries!

Eiter & Verhoeven win in Valence  Facebook

In the eigth stage of the World Cup 2005 in Valence, the female and male winners were Angela Eiter and Jorg Verhoeven (interview is coming up) respectively (result and pictures). The final WC will take place in Kranj in three weeks and Eiter has already secured her title ahead of Maja Vidamar and Caroline Ciavaldini. Flavio Crespi needs to be at least #8 in the Kranj if Ramon Julian wins.

Practise & Ethics in sportclimbing  Facebook

For many years now, the climbing community has created, modified and spread the practices and ethics of sportclimbing. There are, however, no such thing as written rules that can be found in most other sports. Hence, beginner climbers are struggling to understand what is "normal" practice and in different subcultures different ethics apply. [Here are some thoughts of 8a that we hope will lead to a discussion].

Safety and sportclimbing  Facebook

8a has written a short article on [safety in sportclimbing]. This article has been out on the global page for some time and since we have recieved no comments regarding its content we are now updating it. It is our hope that this article will help climbers avoid some of the common pitfalls in sportclimbing.

Ramon & Maja win in Shanghai  Facebook

In the seventh stage of the WC 2005, the male and female winners were Ramon Julian Puigblanque and Maja Vidmar, respectively. Angela Eiter had previously won eigth WC's in a row. Read the interview with Maja where she reveals some of her the training secrets. Besides the WC victory, Maja has had an excellent fall. Last week she onsighted Paieda 8a+ in Rodellar and another five 8a's.

Summary results:
1. Ramón Julián (ESP) 2. Jorg Verhoeven (NED) 3. Cedric Lachat (SUI) 4. Tomas Mrazek (CZE) 5. Flavio Crespi (ITA)

1. Maja Vidmar SLO 2. Angela Eiter AUT 3. Yuca Kobayashi JPN

Interview with Olga Shalagina  Facebook

In a superior fashion, Olga Shalagina from Ukraine won the 2005 world championship in bouldering. To find out a bit more about Olga and how she trains to become so strong, 8a has [interviewed the unknown talent] in her homeland.

Chabot sues the French federation  Facebook

As we have reported previously, there is a conflict between the french climbing association and their top climber Alexandre Chabot regarding sponsorship. The result is that he will not take part in either Valence and Shanghai. Alexandre has to sign a contract with one of the main sponsors of the federation - Decathlon, in order to participate in the WC's. Of course, Alexandre does not refuse to wear the national team dress but other then that he can not accept the conditions of the contract he has to sign. The case is expected to go all the way to court, for the moment.

Nice pictures from Patitucci  Facebook

We have received some very nice pictures from Dan Patitucci.

The Nose free and free in a day  Facebook

Since Lynn Hill freed the Nose back in 1993, it has gained a reputation of being a sandbag at 8b+/14a. Now Climbing reports that Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have repeated it. The pair did a 'team free' ascent, each leading about half the pitches, with Caldwell leading the crux "Changing Corners' pitch (5.14a/8b+) and Rodden doing the stopper 'Great Roof' pitch (5.13c/8a+).
Two days later, Tommy returned and fired off a 12 hour ascent of the Free Nose leading all the pitches whilst belayed by his wife.

Subscription offer from Climbing  Facebook

8a increases the co-operation with Climbing, who online publish the North America 8a.nu updates and ranking. Climbing offer the 8a members/vistors a special deal of USD 27 for a 1 year (9 issues) subscription. As the dollar rate is low this means Euro ~22. It is only possible to get the special 8a offer through this link. A quick order means that you will have the November issue which is a boulder special and it also includes an 8a interview! The offer for subscribers within USA

Petrenko & Krivosheitsev new 8a editors  Facebook

We have met Maksim Petrenko, #4 in the World Cup 2004, and Evgeny Krivosheitsev and asked them if they could give us an update, through the 8a blog, of how it is to be a professional climber in Ukraine.

Apparently Maksim finances his climbing by a 200 Euro/month grant from the ministary, price money from WC's and free shoes from La Sportiva. Maksim Petrenko's blog will now hopefully be updated several times a week. Next week Maksim and Evgeny will go 3500 km by car to compete in France.

Slideshow from Gallery  Facebook

These are the voted Top-30 pictures from the 8a-gallery, now containing approximately 8800 pictures

No anonymous members  Facebook

We do appreciate that there are more comments that are posted, including the ones that are critical to 8a. However, as it is stated in the 'New member' registration - Membership is only available for real individuals with full name. It certainly demands some guts to be a visable member out here on the internet. That is why the 8a community is unique.

10 000 members 325 000 ascents  Facebook

We are now 10 000 members who have registered 325 000 ascents. We are growing faster all the time and sometimes our website can be slow. This autumn we will launch a new 8a version with higher capacity and more features. For example it will be possible to add projects with an open betabank.

Fischhuber & Levet WC winners 2005  Facebook

Kilian Fischhuber and Sandrine Levet are the winners of the Boulder World Cup in 2005. Kilian, who was #2 in the world championship, had a 32 point marginal to Jerome Meyer. We are preparing an interview with the worlds best competition boulderer who mostly train on sport climbing routes!

Sandrine, with a 1, 1, 2, 2 - serie, won 103 points ahead of Olga Bibik. Sandrine has won all the Boulder WC's since 2000, expect in 2002. Complete results

Speed and Boulder expert win WC  Facebook

Tomasz Oleksy, who won the last speed WC, took a sensational win in Firminy Boulder World Cup. Also in 2003 he won one event in both Speed and bouldering so maybe not such a big sensation after all. How it is possible to do a combination like this?

Among the women, Juliette Danion won. Previously, she has two WC silvers. The french women dominated, however of the only 23 competitors 11 were french. Complete results

Redpoint tactics  Facebook

Redpoint tactics for the lazier ones who don't have time and patience to spend weeks to get that 8a.

New editor for Switzerland  Facebook

We have country specific editors for the following 10 countries: Austraila, Brazil, France, Italy, Netherlands, Poland, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden and Switzerland (Martin Keller).

New article on Endurance  Facebook

Lactid Acid - The route climber's enemy

8c+ by Adam Ondra (12)  Facebook

Our partner site Kairn tells us, wonderboy Adam Ondrahas set yet another new world record by doing Alien Carnage, 8c+ in Castillion. Adam, who is #7 in the world ranking, is probably the world's best 12-year-old, measured by any sport category! Interview with the 156 cm tall kid

Three 8b+'s flashed by Midtbo (17)  Facebook

Magnus Midtbo (17) has flashed three 8b+'s in Siurana. The ticklist for the new wonderboy from Norway, who was #7 in the last World Cup and who won the Junior World, is much longer, including an 8a+ onsight etc. Magnus should be top #20 in the world when he has found an internetcafe:) An interview is on it's way, by our new norweigian editor Lars Giberg.

Another 9a by Andrada  Facebook

Dani Andrada has done his 8th 9a and harder in 2005, Estado Critico in Siurana. Mr 9a sets a new record score by 13 210 points.

8b onsight by Yann Sanchez  Facebook

Yann Sanchez has onsighted IRCTAL, 8b, at Concluses. Yann is #12 in the world ranking.

9a+ by Graham  Facebook

Dave Graham has opened a new 9a+ in Ticino, Switzerland named, Coup de Grace. 'The most amazing beautiful cool thing ever!my baby'. And yes, this is the route Dave is working in Dosage III. (Stay tuned for a review.). On Big-UP you'll also find the full story of Dave's ascent.
Dave is our superior combined ranking leader and he is pushing his way up on the list of Climber of 2006. The last few weeks he has also done four boulders 8B and harder.

Age doesn't count  Facebook

Super lady Letizia Colombo 'Supertitta' (48) has had her best year ever and in 2005 as she has done La Danza Dei Cavalieri, 8a+ in Sperlonga and a 7c+ onsight in Kalymnos. When she was 40 she was struggeling doing 7a's. If we were to put all her ascents in a scorecard she would have passed 10 000 and been in the Top-15 in the world.

Two 8b's onsight by Chabot  Facebook

Alexandre Chabot, 21 times World Cup winner and who this year has been denied to compete for France twice, is pushing the grades outdoors so he would better use a scorecard ;) On a trip to Siurana Alex managed to do two 8b's onsight, Migranya and Zona 0.

Berni Schwaiger is also on it again  Facebook

Berni Schwaiger has put up Pushed Aside, 8B+ and Under Pressure, 8B in snowie conditions in Saalachtal. Some very nice pics on the schwaigerbrother website. Berni is #5 in the All time high ranking and here is a n old interview with another nice pics

8a crack onsighted  Facebook

Petter Restorp from Sweden has onsighted Tricks are for kids, 8a in Indian Creek. The route is 50 meter long and Petter protected himself with nuts and friends. How many 8a+'s have been onsighted and has 8b been done?

8b by Cathy Wagner (40)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has turned 40 but keeps improving and did Rituel, 8b in Thaurac 2:nd go. She is brave and humble enough to comment 'maybe 8a+'. The last year our grand lady has done 29 routes 8a and harder and she is #10 in the women wold ranking.

Spauwen takes over!  Facebook

Sebastian Spauwen has repeated Ganymede takeover, 8A+/8B/8B+ depending on who you ask, at a secret spot n Tessino.

8c+ by Fabian Christof  Facebook

Fabian Christof has after six days of work done, 21 times tha pain, 8c+, in the Frankenjura. The route has been upgraded from 8c. Interview with Fabian who is #3 in the combined ranking.

8c/+ by Kinder  Facebook

Joe kinderhas made the 2nd ascent of Andy Reather's Schlachthaus Fünf, 8c/+, at the Wailing wall. In his scorecard, Kinder says the route was 8c+ to him. He needed 9 tries in 4 days.

Onsight slaughter by Belhaj  Facebook

Said Belhaj has had four excellent days of onsighting in Terradets, Spain, onsighting seven out of the eight routes he tried, all of which were 8a or harder. In our opinion, Terradets has some of the best quality routes we have ever climbed and they are very well bolted.

8c+ by Bendler  Facebook

Chalkbag reports, Markus Bendler has climbed Das Erbe der Väter, a new 8c+ at the Schleierwasserfall in Austria.

Moroni does 8B/+ and downgrades  Facebook

Gabri Moroni (18), bronze medalist in the European Championship in Bouldering at 16, has done Ganymede takeover after only 30 minutes and he is humble enough to suggest 8A+ instead of 8B/+. If Gabri were to use the same grades as everybody else he would be in the Top-10, now he is #20. In the combined ranking, Gabri is #6.

Andrada again  Facebook

Dani Andrada has put up yet another 8c+, Sesio de blumo in Santana. In 2005, Dani has put up 15 routes 8c and harder. Interview with the superior world ranking leader

8B etc by Urh Èehovin  Facebook

Urh Èehovin has spent some days in Chironico and Cresiano where he did La Soucoupe, 8B and another two 8A+'s and two 8A's.

Moon Voyager, 8B  Facebook

Ben Moon has established a new boulder problem on Peak Grit. Called Voyager and proposed Font 8b this new problem climbs an amazing (and desparate looking) arete underneath the Sphinx in the Burbage valley. MoonClimbing

Another B for Christof  Facebook

Fabian Christof has made the 3rd ascent of Apokalypse now in the Frankenjura, confirming the 8B grade (originally 8B+).

8b+ onsight etc by Mrazek  Facebook

TomᚠMrázek has spent a week in St Léger onsighting pretty much everything he tried including Le Nabab, 8b+ (b) and five 8a+'s. Tomᚠis closing the gap to Dani and in onsight he is #1.

Koyamada 50 days in Frankenjura  Facebook

We have previously reported that the 165 cm, Dai Koyamada did Action directe, 9a in Frankenjura. climbing.de reports that he during 50 days did a lot more including; 10 boulders 8A and harder, Five traverses 8A+ and harder and Infinity 8c+. Dai is a superior boulder ranking leader.

8b onsight by Tarlousa  Facebook

Marc Tarlousa has done his first 8b onsight, Elle m'est passée sous le nez in Gorges du Tarn. Marc also managed to do Adieu Wolfgang, 8c and jumps to #18 in the world ranking.

New 9a by C Bindhammer  Facebook

Christian Bindhammer has made the first ascent of Big Hammer an old open project since 1992. Christian believes the route to be around 9a. "After 15 meters 8b+ you arrive to 9 bouldery moves (8A) and then five easy meters to the top - 11 days of work." While he was at it, he also found time to put up Pandaemonium, 8c, at Pinswang, Austria. Interview is coming up.

It's all sunshine for Emerson  Facebook

Jamie Emerson has made a late season ascent of Nuthin But Sunshine, 8B in Chaos Canyon, RMNP. Emerson also did The Gobot, Stranger in a
Strange Land, Skipper Roof
all 8A+.

8b+ onsight by Usobiaga  Facebook

Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted his eight 8b+, Le Nabab in St Léger. Patxi is #3 in the world ranking and there are now four Spaniards in the Top-9.

Chabot in Fontainebleau  Facebook

Alexandre Chabot, who has been dominating the world cup since the year 2000 with a total of 20 victories (including the last two that he participated in), is still not accepted by his federation to compete in the world cup competitions as he doesn't accept their sponsor deal. Last weekend, Alexandre went on a trip to Fontainebleau where he send four 8A's, including a flash of Mongolito in Buthiers.

Two 8b's onsight by Andrada  Facebook

Dani Andrada has onsighted Ratafia, 8b and Made in Calders, 8b in Calders. Dani also made a FA of Pinza worl, 8c in Alos de balager. Dani who is a superior #1 in our ranking has put up 20 routes 8c and harder. Interview with Mr 8a

8B by Foirais  Facebook

Roland Foirais has done Keops, 8B in Fontainebleau. Roland is #33 in the 8a world ranking.

8b onsight by Josune  Facebook

Josune Bereziartu has onsighted La Reserve, 8b, in St Leger and a few 8a's. Josune is #6 on the 8a world ranking and we ask ourselves if there is any fysical sport except climbing where women are challenging the best males, like Josune and Charlotte are!

OS slaughter again by Durif  Facebook

Charlotte Durif has onsighted four 8a+ at Kalymnos, Greece. Interview with the 15-year-old who is #7 on the 8a onsight world ranking.

8b onsight by Zehani  Facebook

Christophe Zehani has done his first 8b onsight, Acidogène in Blavet. Cristophe is #17 in the world ranking.

8c+ by Raether  Facebook

Andy Raether has put up a new 8c+, Schlachthaus Fünf at the Wailing wall.
"I have been working on it all month, and I was able to send today. I had worked on it this last spring but wasn't at all close, and I broke a hold completely off, making a new crux, as well as making myself less close. It is essentially easy 8b with a decent rest into an 8b. I'm kind of progressing in my route form about the same as I did with bouldering. I've been sticking to it and keeping fairly productive. The best part about the Cathedral/Wailing wall is that there are at least three more projects that are harder than this, and two more possible 8b+'s." Well done Andy and let's see what happens in the future!
Andy is #13 in the redpoint ranking.

Usobiaga, 8c onsight  Facebook

Patxi Usobiaga from the Basque Country - Spain, has achieved the third 8c onsight in history with Gaua in Lezain (Navarra - Spain), after Yuji Hirayama (White Zombie) and Tomas Mrazek (Pata Negra).

The same day he also managed to send the next routes: Pistolaren mintzoa, 8c+ (2nd go); Satán, 8b+ (2nd go); and Beldurra, 8a+ (onsight). All these routes had been bolted by Ekaitz Maiz. Interview with Patxi.

Action direct again...  Facebook

Moon Climbing reports: "Action Direct had it's 3rd repeat in a week and the 8th in total today when Markus Bock concluded his battle with Wolfgang Gullich's 1991 test piece. Markus has come close to redpointing this route on numerous occasions over the past few years but never quite made it. Perhaps seeing both Rich and Dai redpoint the route earlier in the week gave him that little bit extra motivation but whatever he deserves a lot of respect for sticking with it and finishing it off."

8A by Payne  Facebook

Angela Payne has made the first female ascent of Sunspot, 8A, at RMNP, Colorado.

Five 8a's & 8a+ onsight by Cufar  Facebook

Martina Cufar has been on a tour in Spain where she managed to onsight Paeida, 8a+ in Rodellar and another five 8a's. Full story in the blog of Martina Cufar who is #2 in the world ranking.

Gaskins repeats Monk life  Facebook

John Gaskins has repeated Monk Life, 8B+, at Kyloe in the Woods, Northumberland. Monk Life was opened by Malc Smith in October 2003, it has had 1 other repeat from Andy Earl.

More direct action  Facebook

Dai Koyamada has also repeated Action direct, 9a in Frankenjura. Dai is #1 in both the boulder ranking and in the combined All time high ranking.

New 8B+ by O'Conor  Facebook

Si O'Conor has given Scotland yet another 8B+, Atlantic bridge at Port Nis. "I managed to extend the classic Atlantic Bridge problem originally climbed 4 years back at v9 in the end, which now starts from the originally planned deep cave sitter. From the roof nicks at the back it's easily as hard as Trace Element -rh-. This line is one of the most, unsung, un-hyped, 3 star problems of the most northerly bouldering in the Western Isles. From crouch & doing the nose it's v9. from the sloper roof crack start it's v11 [recently repeated by Finn]...Now my original idea is complete.. taking the line from start to finish in 9 or 10 moves. It would have been climbed sooner but like many lines that seem obvious & catch the eye...they are always harder to do than to dream..."

Simpson climbs Action Directe!  Facebook

Moon Climbing reports Richard Simpson has made the 6th ascent of Action Directe, Güllich's benchmark 9a at Waldkopf, Frankenjura.
"Okay everybody, here is the news you all have been waiting for. Just got a text message from Rich Simpson who is one of Moon's top sponsored climbers, and, he has just made the 1st British repeat and, I think, the 5th repeat overall of Action Directe, the infamous Wolfgang Gullich route in the German Frankenjura. Touted as the worlds 1st 9a it should be the top of any self respecting sport climbers hit list of hard routes.

Rich just texted me the following:

"Just did it everything was perfect. im so happy it's like a drug for the next few hours i will be gone totally out of here. it's no longer a dream. thanks". "

New 8c by rouhling  Facebook

Our partners at Kairn tells us that a new 8c has been put up by Fred Rouhling in Haute Savoie.
He just redpointed a new 8c in Allonzier la caille, Haute-Savoie, France, close to where Fred lives.
La voie du charpentier is an 18m route with 5 bolts.

Slovenians in Spain  Facebook

Seven Slovenian climbers are currently to be found in the Spanish climbing centre of Rodellar: Maja and Katja Vidmar, Roman Krajnik, Klemen Becan, Anže Štremfelj, Klemen Vodlan and Martina Èufar. The conditions are great as are their results.

Maja has already on-sighted four 8a's and one 8a+ (Paieda) routes, Martina two 8a's and one 8a+, Katja two 7c's and Klemen two 8b's (as well as some 8a+ and 8a) routes.
They're staying in Spain for another week

Strong Steve repeats legendary link-up  Facebook

Strong Steve Maclure has completed the third ascent of the Staminaband/PUTP link up at Raven Tor in the Peak district. Originally thought to be 9a, the link climbs a font 8a traverse (stamina band) before a butch 8a+ (Pump up the power). It was first completed by the Gaskins crimp machine and then repeated by Rich Simpson (who suggested 8c+). Stevo has yet to suggest a grade.

8c+ and more by Lama  Facebook

David Lama, 15 years of age, has spent the last couple of weeks at Rumney, USA. However, changing continent doesn't seem to have affected David who keeps delivering in the way we've grown accustomed to. The higlights were Livin' astro, 8c+, and Steady slobbin, 8c, (3rd go) but he also climbed heaps of 8b's and 8a+'s. David found Parallel universe, 8b+, really hard for the grade. His estimation: "8c, or harder".

8b+ flash by Verhoeven  Facebook

Jorg Verhoeven, 20, has made the first flash ascent of one of the oldest 8b+'s, Sogni si gloria, at Erto, Italy. The route, originally graded 8b+/c, was first climbed by Gerhard Hörhager way back in the late 80's.
Jorg also found time, and energy, to onsight a couple of 8a+'s and climb an 8b 2nd go.

Graham does his 42nd 8B  Facebook

David Graham has done General Disarray, 8B in Brione. This was the 51th 8B and harder and David is #2 in the world boulder ranking. It should also been mentioned that David is our most brave and humble climber concering grading as he thinks one third of the 8B's< he has done is subject for downgrading.

Lot of action in Ukraine  Facebook

Evgeny Krivosheytsev , world champion in Ice climbing 2002, has during the last weeks put up seven new link-ups up including two 8c+'s in Red Stone, Ukraine. Check report of Evgeny who is #4 in the world ranking. In the same area, Katya Yaermud has done Parallel world, 8b +! A team from 8a is going to Ukraine on monday!

Josune did 13 8a< onsights in three weeks  Facebook

We were wrong when we stated that Charlotte Durif (15) was the best female onsight climber ever. Anyhow, Josunebereciartu.com reports that she has done 13 onsights of 8a and harder during the last tree weeks. The most difficult being Fuente de energia, 8b, in Valdiello. Josune adds "I was pretty close to onsight two other 8b´s, but as you know even the smallest mistake results in failure..."
Josune, who is #8 in the world ranking, including 9a+ and 9a, is clearly the best female ever and she equals the 12 000 onsight points by Charlotte!

8b+ onsight by Chabot  Facebook

Alexandre Chabot seems to be in good shape, having won the last three comps and now onsighted his first 8b+, L-mens at Montsant. Alexandre is a contender of becoming the climber of 2005. Picture in our french section.


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