Based on almost 1 000 unique votes, "Best climbing shoes 2020?", the Italien brands La Sportiva and Scarpa dominate. 42 % La Sportiva (43 % in 2019) 34 % Scarpa (28 %) 08 % Five Ten (10) 08 % Tenaya (6) 08 % Other (12) This is the tenth year in a row we do this poll and in 2010, La Sportiva got 50 %, Five Ten 25 %, Scarpa 7 %. During the following ten years, the results have been continuing a trend towards the 2020 results.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Quentin Chastagnier has done his third 9a by the FA of Twist Again in Festival crag. He bolted it some five years ago and it is the neighbor to his first 9a he did one year ago. Interesting is that he has done several 8c+' before including some 9a's he has suggested personal downgrades off. (c) Simon Destombes "About the route, it’s something special, a 12 meters long regular 35/40° overhang with pinches, pockets, edges and original moves with a lot of drop knees (which explain the name of the route). It’s a mix of technical and powerful climbing for a fun effort. The start offers two 7B+ boulder problems until an undercling hole rest (around 8c to this point) before an 8A boulder problem and an easy final slab around 6a. Around 9a, and for sure one of the nicest extreme routes around!"

Maho Normand, who started climbing outside last July, has done his first 8c/+, Cannabis Directa in Rouquevaire. The next goal for the 140 cm tall 14-year-old includes routes from 8c to 9a+. Insta "I would like to win another French Cup and join the French national team. My project outside is to make a 9a in Faron before I turn 15, Then to make several classics like Ufo 8c, XXL 8c+ and in the meantime work on Aubade 9a+.

The Guardian has published an interview with Shauna Coxey. Talking about the Combined format, she says among other things, "It’s going to showcase the best of our sport across the disciplines. I think the crowds are going to be amazed with what they see."

jose luis palao has done his tenth 9a via the FA of La catedral del mál in Santuario. It took him 15-20 days of projectingnot counting sections shared with other routes. "It is a 25m route with a first part of 8c+, including a technical boulder with knees. After a good rest it continues with an 8c. Very happy to finish this process for me after also bolting it."

Martin Tekles, who was #9 in a World Cup in 2017, has done his second 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco just six weeks after his first. The reason for the 29-year-old beeing a late bloomer outdoors are that he previously has focused on competitions and getting a Master degree in Psychology.

Alex Puccio, runner-up in the World Championship in 2014, has done her 31st 8B, Wheel of Fortune in Clear Creek Canyon. (c) Robin O'Leary In total, the 30-year-old has done close to 200 boulders 8A to 8B+, meaning she has the best female ticklist out there, in spite of having had several injuries. In 2015, she required surgery to repair the torn ACL, MCL, and meniscus ligaments in her left knee. One year later she underwent a spinal fusion surgery. Both injuries she got during the Vail Boulder WC. Last year, she had to do another ACL knee surgery. In spite of all these surgeries, she has made the WC podium 14 times. In total, the 153 cm tall has done 37 World Cups and made it Top-10 all but once. She won her first in 2009 (Vail) and the last in 2018 (Vail) which also was the last WC she entered.

"Owners and managers of indoor climbing gyms are in an incredibly powerful position to help influence the growing population of climbers by helping to raise awareness and inspire action. The InsideOut® Challenge looks to turn climbing gyms into powerful allies in conservation, helping gym managers highlight environmental stewardship and climbing advocacy opportunities and mobilize their members to help protect outdoor climbing areas." More info Here are the 8a access recommendations we posted in 2010 together with the Access Fund. Remember that experienced outdoors climbers could also inform those not yet aware of the best practice.

There are now more than 5.5 million star rated ascents in the 8a database. Through the advanced search you can find the highest rated climbs by stars, grade or onsight percentage etc for different crags and countries. You can also check directly through the crag Tick List and some of the crags that stick with high ratings out are; Phalz, Montanejos, Schleier Wasserfall, Donautal, Bohuslän, Wild Iris, American Fork, Terradets and Verdon. Among boulder areas; Val Calanca, Eldorado Canyon, Devil's Lake, Newlin, Brione, Poudre Canyon, Mt Evans and Yosemite stick out. The most popular climbs are found in Kalymnos and Fontainebleau.