NEWS

Starting from Monday morning, you will not be allowed to leave your house in Spain, if not buying food and go to work. In practice, this means that they and their tourists will not be allowed to climb. Already today, it was forbidden to go climbing in Margalef and Siurana. In Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi says that since Friday the rules have changed and are now more strict. You are not any longer allowed to go out rock climbing.

15 March 2020

CWIF Finals

1. Molly Thompson-Smith 33 - Yoshiyuki Ogata 23 2. Holly Toothill 24- Jan Hojer 22 3. Brooke Raboutou 23 - Nathaniel Coleman 22

Primitivo 8C by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he some days ago did Jimmy Webbs, Primitivo 8C in Valle Bavona. Kevin Takashi Smith "We setup the lights and pads, played some rage against the machine (guerrilla radio), and I fired the line first try. It began to start pissin rain as I topped out, so Id say that the timing was perfect. Sucha stunner to session on! PRIMITIVO... the best wine."

The Kingdom 8C by Matt Fultz
Matt Fultz, who had not done any 8C ten months ago, has done his ninth, The Kingdom in Brione, in amazingly just one session. (c) Insta. The 28-year-old is #2 in the 8a ranking game after some amazing progress lately. He has been in Ticino for three weeks and he had planned to go back this weekend. "For now the travel ban has me here in Europe for another 30 days at least. So I'll be trying lots of projects here in Switzerland, and attempting to stay healty."

Supercrackinette 9a+ by Julia Chanourdie
Julia Chanourdie, who previously has done two 9a's and who has qualified to Tokyo, has done Supercrackinette 9a+ in Saint-Lรฉger. (c) Mรฉlanie Cannacยจ Fanatic Climbing reports that she has projected it for two months. The FA wasmade by Alex Megos and later Adam Ondra and Jerome Pouvreau have done it confirming the grade.

Mojo rising 8c+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni, who made the FA of Legacy 9a in Rocklands last summer, has done the FA of Mojo rising 8c+ in Valle Bavona. It took him a total of three days to bolt it, clean it and climb it. (c) Cameron Maier "I'll keep climbing new boulders and bolting new routes in Bavona but I am also psyched to get on The Understanding (8C) and Force Tranquille (8C) when they will be dry."

Martina Demmel (18) amazing progress via onsight and outdoor focus
Martina Demmel has been climbing for three years out of which the last two years she has only climbed outdoors! Amazingly, the 18-year-old is #2 in the 8a ranking game and it is almost only about onsights. 18 months after she started to climb she onsighted her first 7c. Checking all her 8a's and harder, more than 50 % she has done second go, including two 8b+'s the last three weeks. More pics on her Insta. "I've always been a lot in the mountains with my parents since I could walk and I always loved it to be outside but never had something to do with climbing. Then 2017, a friend took me to our local little climbing cellar and I immediately fell in love with these movements and everything that comes with climbing like travelling, seeing new landscapes and cultures and meeting new people from all over the world. The first year, I mainly climbed indoors and just had around 20 days on rock but in spring 2018, I had enough of these dusty gyms and since then I'm only climbing on rock. I only climb on rock, I don't do any other training for power or endurance. But I do a lot of stretching every day which helps me pretty much especially because I'm quite small (1,57m) and I try to do some antagonist training two times per week. Just to see as many beautiful places as possible and to push my limits further but there's no real goal to climb a certain grade rather a few stunning lines I've in my mind and for sure to always do it just because I truly love it. I'm just a random girl who loves the climbing lifestyle nothing really special...

Jeremiah Low 8B by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio, who previoulsy has done five 8B+', has done her 32nd 8B, Jeremiah Low in Coal Creek. (c) Bodyenroute "Haven't been climbing or training all that much over the last 3 weeks so I was pleasantly surprised with a cheeky little send today on this boulder. ;) Had to try a bit harder than wanted, but pulled it out I guess." The last weeks, Alex has done several training clinics and had a sinus infection so that is why she has taken it easy the last period.