How has the Coronavirus affected your daily climbing life? Of course, it’s a bit difficult to not go anywhere, especially since the weather is so amazing right now here in Innsbruck, Tyrol. But at least I have a nice garden where I can still enjoy the sun and fresh air. We already installed our beastmaker outside with some ropes since it couldn’t hold the walls inside anymore. We broke it down half a year ago, so we had to be creative to mount the beast maker outside. By now we have two hang boards outside, so everyday we do a couple things out here. What is really cool is that I’m living together with Michael Piccolruaz, a South Tyrolean who has a good chance to become an Olympian as well, so we’re training together and it’s always easier if you’re two. It’s way more motivating and fun. I’m also trying to use the time to work on some weaknesses like mobility and flexibility, so I’m stretching and I do mobilization exercises, but to be honest, I always hated these parts of the training. I’ve always been the person who’s super psyched and motived to climb as much as possible but things like stretching and hang boarding I’ve never really enjoyed that much, so it’s not the easiest for me. I definitely try and put the effort in and take this opportunity to grow as a person and work on the things I don’t like as much. Other than that I’m lucky that also my girlfriend is at my place so I get to spend time with her. Besides climbing I have a second passion, online gaming, and it’s a good time to connect with some friends and play some games.

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing 29 years ago, has done his first 9a with the FA of Suspiro in El Chorro. The 163 cm tall did his first, out of ten 8c+', six years ago when he was 39 years old. (c) Iván Sabo Rafa says he has been trying the route for two years but not regularly as he also was doing other routes as well as equipping new ones. He explains that it is the love for climbing and putting up routes that are the reason for him continuing to progress. It should be mentioned that the ascent was done one week ago. Rock climbing is no longer allowed in Spain since this Monday.

IFSC informs that also the Combined Championships in Cape Town and Sydney are postponed due to the Coronavirus. In the latest communique it is said that the last spots to Tokyo might be based on historical results. "1. All quota places that have already been allocated to date remain allocated to the NOCs and athletes that obtained them. 2. The possibility remains to use existing and scheduled qualification events, wherever these still have fair access for all athletes and teams. 3. All necessary adaptations to qualification systems and all allocation of remaining places will be: a) based on on-field results (e.g. IF ranking or historical results); and b) reflect where possible the existing principles of the respective qualification systems (e.g. use of rankings or continental/regional specific event results)."

Zach Galla, who recently was very close to make it to Tokyo, has had some good days outdoors doing two 8B+' and The Game in Boulder Canyon. "I was bummed about the Pan Ams but I knew that not qualifying for the Olympics would give me an opportunity to go back and finish it off. Third day this trip! Hardest boulder to date and also my longest project. Going to focus on rock climbing for the foreseeable future. Maybe a few lower pressure comps but I need a break from them for a bit."

Michael Piccolruaz has done his second 8C, Sierra Madre in Zillertal. "Probably the happiest I've ever been after topping out a Boulder! Finally, it happened. This means a lot to me! Cruising through the lower part and falling on those last 2 moves over and over again made this such a crazy mental battle. But with the right conditions, shape, skin, people around me to distract me during the failed attempts, it just had to happen. Absolute king line! Props to Flo (Schmalzl) for establishing this beast." The Italian is from Val Gardena and studies in Innsbruck. "I could get home but until two days it was better to stay in Innsbruck cause I could go outside climbing. Now I still have to figure out whether it is better to get back home..."

Fanatic Climbing has made an interview in regards to julia Chanouride doing Supercrackinette 9a+. She has qualified to Tokyo says climbing even harder routes might be possible. (c) Laura Michelard Do you think you have reached your limits? No, I don’t think this route represents the limit of my abilities. Having successfully clipped these anchors just makes me want to go see further. However, for now, I’m simply itching to go back to Saint Leger and climb all the easier superb routes at the Praniania crag.

In order to train at home you can train on any wodden rung over a door. Recruitement training can be done several times per day for the advanced climbers. If you have just begun climbing you should instead focus on doing pull-ups. Other things to do if you are in quarantine is, of course, stretching which for most of us is the fastest way to progress.

In Italy and Spain it is not allowed to go out rock climbing. The French federation has said that rock climbing should be limited. The last weekend it was more climbers than normal in Fontainebleau. Different countries have different regulations and there is not a consensus on what is the best practice. From a personal perspective, I think that as long as you can limit the contact with others, I do not see any problem going out walking or rock climbing. I totally understand that it might be the best choice, at the current stage, in some countries or places to just stay at home but in the longer run it is good to exercise and be out in the nature.

Carlo Traversi, who did his first 8C in 2011, has done his eight, Dreamtime in Cresciano. (c) Mary Mecklenburg "Dream come true. The very best boulder imaginable and something I've wanted to do since I started climbing. Bummed to be cutting the trip short, but at least the last ditch effort before heading to the airport paid off. Plenty more to do around here. Be back when the world is out of crisis mode." More comments on his Insta.