NEWS

Two 8c's 2nd go by Laura Rogora (19)
Laura Rogora, qualified for the Olympics, reports on Insta that she has done two 8c's second go, Riflessi and Terra Piatta in Arco. Alfredo Webber She did her first 9a in 2015, at age 14, and the same year she won her first Euro Cup. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 9 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder which is most out of all females. Last year she won both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship. Laura has moved to Trento together with her sister and during the five weeks, she was not able to do a single climbing move. Instead, she could only do pullups and abs. The only way to work the endurance was to do pull-ups with eight seconds lock off, "until you die". The maximum was ten pull-ups for 80 seconds on a small edge. In total she did train like 15 hours a week.

10 Dec African - South Africa 10 Dec Asian - Xiamen in China 19 Dec Oceania in Sydney The European Championship is scheduled to start on 1 October in Moscow. If these Championships will be canceled, Jernej Kruder, Ievgenia Kazbekova, Jongwon Chon, and Chaehyon Seo would get European and Asian tickets. Furthermore, from Oceania and Africa, Harrison Campbell, Oceania Mackenzie, Curtis Calrin, and Rachelle De Charmoy will make it.

Life for a quarantined climber is pain in the backside or how not to go crazy from it
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Les Fakirs 9a FA by Loic Zehani (18)
Loic Zehani, who did his first 9b last year, has done his 15th 9A by the FA of Les Fakirs in Orgon. "In France the lockdown lasted 2 months. Since may 11 we are allowed to move around our house within a radius of 100 kilometers. We were able to do a lot of campus boarding and we were lucky to have a natural boulder with many holds located just 500 meters to my home. We made resistance circuits. So the recovery was not really a recovery. "Les fakirs" is a stamina overhanging route of 32 movements. After that, you have a rest and you finish in a nice and fingery 8a+. It's not all natural but it's a very nice line. It took me about 10 tries. The first part was bolted by my father and the second part by Thomas Sandri.

Oriane (15) & Max (13) send ten 8A's (+) in Font
Oriane and Max Bertone, from Reunion outside Madagascar, were in Paris for the French Youth Championship when the lockdown started. After 60 days in quarantine they have been able to visit Fontainbleau again and quickly done five 8A's each. It should be mentioned that this includes Max doing A Lay's Blaise assis which he suggest a personal down grade to 8A+. Their father Stefano comments, "The whether is incredible in Font. Cold and dry. Boulders seem so easy!" Oriane has the last year done 18 boulders 8A to 8B including one flash and she is #3 in the female ranking game. Max has done 18 boulders 8A to 8A+ and he is #14 among the juniors up to 19 years old, although just being 13.

Paul Robinson reaches 1 000 boulders 8A and harder
Paul Robinson added his first 8A boulder to his scorecard in 2003. Now 17 years later, he has logged #1 000, out of which close to 200 FA's, and comments, "Wow. What an incredible journey. I feel so lucky for the life I have. Can I do another 1k?!" Including 21 8C's, out of which seven FA's, and 14 flashes 8A+ and 8B, Paul should be considered one of the leading boulders in the world during the last 20 years. "n 2003, at the age of 16, I climbed my very first 8A, the Egg in Squamish. As I continued to climb my goal has always been to climb as much as I can and to build a big pyramid for myself. I wanted to climb every style of every grade. A few years ago, I realized that reaching 1000 was an actual possibility. I could not believe it. I have been fortunate enough to be able to climb all over the world on some of the best boulders around. I was also lucky enough to make the first ascent of a few five-star gems along the way too. While in Switzerland, I thought I was going to be able to complete my journey to 1000. Then, with covid-19, I was forced to head back to the USA. Since returning home, I spent the quarantine time building a climbing wall and training. When I returned back outside, I felt weak but with a few sessions, I started to feel strong again. I am now feeling really good and excited for some more lines in Colorado! I had plane tickets to South Africa for this summer but because of Covi, I will not be able to make the trip. Yesterday, I reached 999 and then 1000 with two fun 8B's on the Coal Creek Boulder. The boulder is pretty amazing and there are a lot of hard lines left! I am not sure if 2000 will be possible but I am really going to try for it!"

In most sports, curse and obscenity screaming are considered bad behavior and you could actually get peneltied doing it. It is the same in competition climbing where you get a yellow card for cursing. However, outdoors it seems it is getting more popular to curse after falling. Talking to many landowners and neighbours over the years it seems the thing they get most upset of is hearing โ€œP-yโ€ over and over again. In Gรถteborg, one crag has just been shut down because of the various bad behaviour of climbers.

Access and Safety alert for the upcoming boom
As the Covid-19 restrictions have started to ease up around the globe it is expected that there will be a rock climbing boom in May. Many climbers are eager to get out in the nature and in Sweden, with almost no restrictions, there have been more climbers than ever. In one case in Gรถteborg, an access problem with the nearby occurred and one of the best sectors has temporarily? been closed. It might be a good time for local clubs, gyms and experienced climbers to address the problem with access (article) and also safety as there probably will be many outdoor beginners on the crags. Furthermore, dangerous routes and boulders should be avoided by the experienced as we do not want to burden the hospital with broken legs, etc.