NEWS

Matteo Marrocchi completes Flow State (8C)
Matteo Marrocchi has repeated Pietro Vidiโ€™s Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. At age ten he stopped climbing after he had sent two 8aโ€™s and won two Italian Youth Championships.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and also say something about your climbing background?
My climbing journey is quite unique. I first started climbing when I was just six years old, but by the time I turned ten I had already shifted my focus to another sport. For many years I stayed away from climbing, until, at the age of twenty, the spark reignited. From there, my progress was fastโ€”within only three years of returning, I climbed my first 9a lead route and reached several finals in the Italian Cup.

More recently, Iโ€™ve begun dedicating myself to outdoor bouldering. A few days days ago I managed to send my first 8C boulder in surprisingly little time. The line is stunning: it consists of two 8B sections separated by a decent rest, with everything hanging on the very last move. All of this is set in the magical, almost fairytale-like atmosphere of Valdaone.

I see you did 8aโ€™s already at age ten. How come you stopped being such a talent?
I was so young. I won the Italian Youth Bouldering Championship for two years, but I felt the pressure and my mind couldnโ€™t take itโ€ฆ It all happened so fast.

What is your next plan?
I would like to climb some easier boulders in Val Daone. Than there is an 8C+ F.A. by Elias Iagnemma near my home๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿป I will see if it's possible to me๐Ÿ˜…

Luke Eberhard does Parzival as his first 8C
Luke Eberhard has repeated Dave Grahamโ€™s Parzival (8C) in Rocklands. The 21-year-old South African has previously sent four 8B+โ€™s. (c) Rocklands Visual Diary

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I always enjoy the weird wizardry involved in many of Daveโ€™s blocs, so it was high on my somewhat optimistic list of boulders to try. This year I dug in with my friend Tony and we made surprisingly consistent progress. The hardest part was understanding the conditions required to stick to the weird slopey dish crimp that is the crux right hand. On one of the last cold days of the season I had a heartbreaking dab after the crux. Thankfully a cold breezy evening appeared the next week to finish it off. Hopefully we will get one more for Tony to follow suit.

Beckett Hsin, 15, ticks Creature of the black lagoon (8C+)
Beckett Hsin, who sent his first 8C in 2023, has done Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+) in Upper Chaos. This summer, the 15-year-old has flashed three 8A+โ€™ and sent three 8B+.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying Creature back in early August, and pleasently surprised myself by making solid links within the first day. Every session Iโ€™d make good progress, wether it was refining my beta on the stand, reaching a new high point, or making a hard link. It was a type of linear progression that was super satisfying.

The day I sent was pretty surreal. The conditions were poor, and I had been dealing with a minor bicep injury from one of my previous sessions, so I didnโ€™t really have any expectations. I just tried hard and enjoyed the moment, one attempt later and I found myself topping out! It was cool because even though I was trying something at my limit I didnโ€™t feel like I had to take myself too seriously. Always had a good time up at the boulder regardless of my performance. The moves are really fun, and I always had some good homies to sesh with. Overall a super fun experience that had me psyched on the first of the grade!

Radek Votocek ticks his 7th 9a in six months
Radek Votocek has done the second ascent of Pumplori (9a) in Allgรคu. โ€A perfect boulder route in Allgau by C. Bindhammer. Big overhang, power steps, trick passages.โ€

How can you best explain your great progress in 2025?
This year my sends went really well ๐Ÿ™‚. If someone had told me back in March that I would climb 9a seven times this year, I wouldโ€™ve laughed ๐Ÿ˜€. What helped my progress was physiotherapy, better nutrition, and some luck in picking the right routes. For a climber, the most important things are staying injury-free, and truly loving climbing.

Erin McNeice gets the Lead overall title 2025
Erin McNeice has been unstoppable in 2025, opening the Lead World Cup season with back-to-back victories before adding two third-place and two fourth-place finishes to her tally. For the 21-year-old, it marks the peak of a meteoric rise. Just three years ago, she was 13th at the Youth Worlds, and in 2023 she averaged 35th place among seniors. By last season, she had already broken through with three World Cup appearances, finishing as high as fifth and sixth. Chaehyun Seo claimed the runner-up spot this season. The Korean star first burst onto the scene in 2019, winning the overall title in her debut year at just 16. She very nearly added another crown in 2025, but a rule change by the IFSC, requiring all six events to count toward the overall standings, shifted the balance.

Alberto Ginez Lopez overall Lead WC winner
Olympic champion Alberto Ginรฉs Lรณpez is back on top. The Spaniard, who won gold in Tokyo 2021, secured the 2025 Lead World Cup overall title after an extraordinary season, reaching the podium at all six events. It marks a stunning return to form after three quieter years, when he entered only six World Cups in total while focusing on outdoor climbing. Chasing him was Japanโ€™s Sorato Anraku. The 18-year-old sensation, already a three-time Boulder World Cup overall winner, finished runner-up in Lead after having won three events. Without the new rule introduced this season, where every event result counts, Anraku would have claimed the title, as his 14th-place finish in Seoul dragged down his tally.

Stefano Carnati does two 9aโ€™s in a day
Stefano Carnati, with 32 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has had some amazing days in La Stazione where he first flashed an 8c and then a couple days later sent two 9aโ€™s during the same session.

Paranoid (8c) - โ€Amazing line! Not the hardest out there, but a perfect way to get back into the flow of endurance routes. Got insanely pumped on the top half but managed to fight it out!โ€

Vivi si muore (9a+) - โ€Great line with a powerful boulder right off the start, then sustained climbing with a decent rest before the final spicy crux of "Paranoid Android". Took around 10 tries in total. Best of the crag in my opinion. Feels like a solid 9a to me. First of the day!โ€

Prima Classe (9a) - โ€Maybe the easiest 9 of the crag, but still super resistant. Just keeps getting harder the higher you go. First tried it last year, then left it until this weekend. Stoked to send it the same day as "Vivi si muore", a perfect way to wrap up an amazing session!โ€

How can you best explain your recent peak?
Honestly, Iโ€™m still a bit confused about this peak. After the Rocklands trip I actually felt pretty rusty, but I quickly got motivated to rebuild some endurance. โ€œLa mola molaโ€ turned out to be the perfect transition back to routes. Besides a few solid training days, I think doing juggy circuits on the Kilter board was surprisingly enough to get me going. I had already visited La Stazione last year after Slovenia, when shape was very good, so this year I decided to restart there. I managed to flash the beautiful and very long โ€œParanoidโ€, and then I put my focus on โ€œVivi si muoreโ€. On Saturday I didnโ€™t feel great, but on Sunday conditions improved and so did my climbing. I sent โ€œVivi si muoreโ€ first try of the day, and with some energy left I gave โ€œPrima classeโ€ a try and it went down immediately.

I also fell off the very last hard move on Trainspotting (9a+) which I had tried last year. A nice reminder that gravity was still working that day, haha. Hopefully Iโ€™ll get back on it soon and maybe even push my personal best a little further.

Pepa ล indel climbs Procesor (9a/+)
Pepa ล indel has repeated Adam Ondraโ€™s Procesor (9a) in Viลกลˆovรฉ. This was the sixth 9a or beyond the last four months for the 17-year-old.

โ€The hardest route in my home crag. Endurance connection of the route Proces 9a with a crux of Los Brลˆos 8c. Incredible fight till the last move and an unforgettable experience of clipping the chain. This one took a lot of effort, because for such a long time I couldnโ€™t stick the super long move in the middle.โ€

Sungsu Lee does Grand Illusion (8C+)
Sungsu Lee, who did Burden of Dreams (9A) in May, has done Grand Illusion (8C+) in Little Cottonwood. The 26-year-old sent his first 8C less than 17 months ago and now he has done eleven boulders 8C to 9A. (c) Taylor Bolt

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I visited Salt Lake City for the first time and itโ€™s been an honor to spend time with such strong climbers. It took me four sessions to send Grand Illusion and now Iโ€™m working on Sosa (8C+)!

Anraku gets his 7th Lead WC gold
Sorato Anraku, 18, who earlier this year won the Boulder World Cup after winning three events, won the last Lead World Cup of the season.

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