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Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sectors  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Greece reports that two new beach sectors have been opened just in time for the Kyparissi Festival 10-12 of May. In total, 60 new lines have been bolted and Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, says that the potential it as least 1 000 more routes in the area.

"If ever there was a dream crag above the beach, Balogeri Gorge is it: cliffs and faces of top-quality limestone unfold through the mountains until they spill out onto a remote beach with small white pebbles and clear blue/green waters."

 
 
8c+ by Moritz Welt (17) in just two sessions  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt had done Markus Bock's Behind the blackest Tears 8c+ in Frankenjura in two sessions. In the Combined ranking, the 17 year old is #2. (c) Lars Decker

"The route was pretty much my style with a 7c lower part and just one hard boulder in the end bouldery on small holds, typical Frankenjura style."

 
 
Extreme domination by Japan and Slovenia  Facebook
 

1. Japan 1 288
2. Slovenia 1 025
3. France 535
4. Austria 395
5. Russia 313
Complete ranking

Japan continues to dominate the National Boulder World Cup as they have done for several years. Slovenia has been runner up for a couple of years. Never before two countries have dominated the ranking as in 2019.

 
 
La Planta de Shiva 9b by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has done his second 9b, La Planta de Shiva in Lillanueva del Rosario. In total, the american has now done 42 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game.

"Fought with every ounce in my body... a feeling I will never forget! Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell. So freaking excited about this send!" More info on his Insta (c) Javi Pec

 
 
Garnbret takes fourth straight win in 2019  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret topped all four boulders in the final winning her four straight WC win in 2019. Last year she only did three WC events, winning the last two after being runner up in her first. #2 was Akiyo Noguchi, actually for the third time this season. 15 year old Ai Mori was #3 in her first Boulder WC Final. Miho Nonaka, who won overall last year, who has had a shoulder injury did her first WC cup this season and was #4. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Janja Garnbret 44 SLO
2. Akiyo Noguchi 34 (4) JPN
3. Ai Mori 34 (11) JPN
4. Miho Nonaka 24 (4) JPN
5. Jessica Pilz 24 (6) AUT
6. Julia Chanouride 2 FRA
Complete results

 
 
Wujiang finals  (4) Facebook
 

 
 
Totally open affair among the male  Facebook
 

1. Tomoa Narasaki 260 JPN
2. Adam Ondra 204 CHE
3. Kokoro Fujii 190 JPN
4. Rei Sugimoto 179 JPN
5. Aleksey Rubtsov 159 RUS
6. Anze Peharc 154 SLO
7. Jernej Kruder 151 SLO
Complete results

Interesting is that both Tomoa and Adam have just done three events. Further more as Tomoa and another four of the best Japaneses will skip Munich in two weeks, anybody ranked in Top-20 can still win theoretically. However, in practice it is probably a battle in between Ondra and Narasaki with Peharc and Kruder as the first challengers.

The ones having not performed up to standard are especially Sean McColl with 31 points and Alex Megos with 49 points but also Alex Khazanov with 63, Gregor Vezonik with 81 and Jakob Schubert with 84 points.

It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

 
 
Uznik and Douady win in Innsbruck  Facebook
 

1. Luce Douady 44 (5) FRA - Nicolai Uznik 14 AUT
2. Celina Schoibl 44 (9) AUT - Mikel Molina 13 ESP (1,4)
3. Urska Repusic 34 SLO - Alfons Dornauer 13 (1,7)
Complete results

The Norwegian coach Reino Horak reports ony positive comments for the comp. "Good organisation and vibes throughout the competition. Exciting until the end and the boulders were fun. I am really looking forward to more European Cups in the future. "

 
 
Garnbret has secured the title with two events remaining  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Janja Garnbret 400 SLO
2. Akiyo Noguchi 240 JPN
3. Fanny Gibert 188 FRA
4. Petra Klingler 180 SUI
5. Futaba Ito 178 JPN
6. Jessica Pilz 176 AUT
7. Shauna Coxsey 145 GBR
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Janja Garnbret has already secured the title with two events remaining. It should be mentioned that Akiyo Noguchi has skipped one event and will also skip the next one in Munich. In fact, all the Top-4 best female from Japan will skip Munich and instead train and compete in Combined in Tokyo. Shauna Coxsey has skipped two events in 2019 and is not on the starting list in Munich. That is also the case for Stasa Gejo who has not done any WCs this season due to an injury. Last year winner, Miho Nonaka missed the three first due to an injury.

In other words, most of the best from last year have either been injured or seem to give low priority for the Boulder WC in 2019. It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

 
 
Narasaki wins and Japan keeps dominating  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomoa Narasaki, who has been runner up in the two WC he has entered this season, won in Wujiang before WCH Kai Harada. Jakob Schubert got his first medal in 2019 beating Keita Dohi on countback.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 34 (7,8) JPN (c) Eddie Fowke - IFSC
2. Kai Harada 34 (7,13) JPN
3. Jakob Schubert 14 (2,9) AUT
4. Keita Dohi (2,9) JPN
5. Kokoro Fujii (3,18) JPN
6. Jan Hojer (9,11) GER
Complete results

The next stage is in Munich in two weeks and interesting is that Tomoa is not going meaning he is not giving the Boulder WC priority, as he did previously skip Moscow. The same goes for all the five Japaneses who were Top-7 in Wujiang.

 
 
Bahratal from 5C to 8A+/B  Facebook
 

 
 
Garnbret and total Japanese domination in semi  Facebook
 

Janja Garnbret was the only one topping all four boulders in the semi and she only needed six tries. Among the male Japan set a new standard with six guys among the best including also all Top-3 positions with Kokoro Fujii winning. In total, there will be three female, including 15 year old Ai Mori, and four male from Japan in the final. Interesting is also that Jakob Schubert and Jan Hojer made it to the finals for the first time in 2019. Adam Ondra coming back frombeing sick the last weekend was #14. Complete results

 
 
Byaku-dou 8C by Mishka Ishi (13)  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMishka Ishi has repeated Dai Koyamada's 8C Byaku-dou in Horai, after some days 20 projecting it during one year. This means she has set a new world standard for 13 year old's. It is a 25 move roof which has been done once before. Mishka is the second female to have done an 8C after Ashima Shirishi who did Horizon at age 14.

She begun climbing being 6 years old and later her mother has started to climb. Previously she has done four 8B's and Nyu-Metsu 8B+ so her ticklist puts her among the very best. No hard routes yet but she is trying an 8b+.

"I have no trainer. I think and act by myself. It is so much fun but there is always someone who takes me to the rock and he is Jun Shibanuma. He travels to all parts of the globe and he is a wonderful climber. He talks about the rocks in the world and to tell the truth I had him interpret for me. I am learning English."

 
 
7 + 3 from Japan and Slovenia to male semi  Facebook
 

All the big names made it through to the Top-20 semifinal in Wujiang but last weekend winner Manuel Cornu. Jongwon Chon won one group ahead of Adam Ondra both in seven attempts. In the other group, Kai Harada and Meichi Narasaki did all boulders in first try.

Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik got the last two spots and that must have been super thrilling especially for Kruder who started first. In the end there were four guys having topped the first four but ended up with just a zone on the last boulder. Last weekend, Manuel Cornu won after having been the last to qualify to the semi and in Moscow, Adam Ondra was #2 after the same situation.

One explanation for this is that starting first in the semi means often better conditions and friction as well as longer resting time in between the final. Complete results

 
 
Highlights from Speed finals in Wujiang  Facebook
 

 
 
Garnbret/Klingler on Top followed by Asians in qually  (5) Facebook
 

Like always, Janja Garnbret won her qualification group topping all five boulders in six tries. In the second group, Petra Klingler won getting four tops. Among the next ten ranked, eight come from Asia out of which all five representing Japan. Naile Meignan (15) was #7 in her group making it to the semi. Interesting was also that Anouck Jaubert, who was #3 in Speed was #29 and that YiLing Song (18) who has won two Speed events in 2019 was #43. A total of ten female did not get any zone. Complete results

 
 
Wujiang semi finals 09.30 GMT +8  Facebook
 

 
 
Ben Moon returns to Buoux after 30 years  Facebook
 

 
 
8.90 by Nonaka and Fujii 6.64  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMiho Nonaka, who has been injured, did her first WC start in the Speed event in Wujiang and set a new personal best at 8.90. The second best non-Speed specialist* was Elena Krasovskaya at 9.10. Most of the big names were around 10 - 12 seconds, including Janja Garnbret at 11.12 probably due to a slip as she did 9.46 last weekend.

Among the male, Kokoro Fujii was second fastest among the non-Speed specialist at 6.64 only beaten by Mickael Mawem at 6.57. Third was last weekend's bouldering winner Manuel Cornu at 6.75. Another eight male did go under 7.3 and below so the field is tightening up. Complete results *Only counting the ones frequently in semis in Bouldering and Lead. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Max Factor 9a by Vladislav Shevchenko  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVladislav Shevchenko, who did his first 8c+ at age 16, has done his first 9a, Max Factor in Bahchisaraj after four days of projecting. In 2017, he won the European Youth Cup and last year he was #45 in the WCH in Innsbruck.

"This year I plan to play in World Cups in Villars, Chamonix, Kranj and World Cups in China. In the autumn I want to go to Spain and try to get through there a few more tracks of category 9a and 9a+."

 
 
Olympic prediction #8  Facebook
 

1. Adam Ondra CZE - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Jakob Schubert AUT - Akiyo Noguchi JPN
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Miho Nonaka* JPN
4. Kokoro Fujii* JPN - Jessica Pilz AUT
5. Mickael Mawem FRA - Petra Klingler SUI
6. Jan Hojer GER - YiLing Song CHN**
7. Jernej Kruder SLO - Julia Chanourdie FRA
8. Alex Megos GER - Sol Sa KOR

* Only two from each country is allowed to participate. There are several more especially male Japaneses that could be Top-4 if they qualify.

** Most of the best female Speed specialist have also participated in Bouldering. Any of them winning two events have a great chance getting Top-8 in Tokyo.

 
 
Siegrist 6-weeks recipe for stronger fingers  Facebook
 

 
 
How to avoid twisted ropes  Facebook
 

The #1 reason why your rope get twisted is when you are lowered down from an anchor with two fixed points on the same height. The longer the horizontal distance, the worse. When bolting an anchor with only rings, the bolts should not be placed on the same height. The idea for the article has come from a recent UKC article showing the opposite!

If you want to tope rope in an anchor with the rings on the same height, you could place just one carabiner in one ring and a long quick draw in the other ring. There is no trick to avoid twisting the rope once you have cleaned the anchor if you not bring a tube and rappel down yourself.

Further more, take your time to uncoil your rope coming from the factory a couple times as most of them come heavily twisted causing some 10 min frustration just when you want to start climbing.

 
 
Wujiang semi and finals on Sunday  Facebook
 

The third stage of the Speed WC will take place Friday in Wujiang. The fourth event, out of six, in the Bouldering WC 2019 starts on Saturday with semis and finals live-streamed on Saturday. Interesting is that Miho Nonaka does her first event in 2019 after being injured and that Adam Ondra is back from being sick but again he will not participate in Speed. Shauna Coxsey is missing again at the same time she reports on Insta that she trains hard back home.

Friday 03th May: GMT + 8
19.00-20.00 Men & Women Speed Finals [LIVE]

Sunday 04th May
09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE]
17.00-18.30 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE]
18.30-20.00 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE]

 
 
Karamba Karacho 9a FA by Daniel Jung  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung, who previously has done three 9a+', has just published some news about his FA of Karamba Karacho 9a Phantasialand on his Insta. It is a link up of an originally 9a and 8c which he both downgraded after the full line was done. (c) Hannes Kutza

"Karamba Karacho is a limestone roof on a small local rock. Nearly 50 powerfull moves on pinches crimps and pockets. It was a hard project physically and mentally challenging. I needed a lot of patience, because most of the time the rock was wet.

It took me 3 years to finish the first part „Karamba“ in 2011. I would need at least 6 crashpads, they had to be moved 3 times during my rest position. Sometime I only could train on a few moves because most of the holds were wet. I didn't want to break hold in the wet conditions. Some holds were ok to climb on wet conditions. A few weeks after I send „Karamba“ I was lucky to send „Karacho“ as well. „Karacho“ starts where „Karamba“ ends. To send the whole line was a big project for me since then.

Sadly the rock was unclimbable wet most times I visited the crack during the last years. After the very dry summer the project became very interesting again last year. The rock was in perfect conditions. That made a big difference. During my sends 2011 the crux holds were humid all the time. With dry holds it felt much easier, so I was back into „Karamba“ very quick. But I had problems on the second part „Karacho“. I wasn't able to reclimb it, it felt too hard. After lots of checking out I found a tricky new beta, with a hook I was able to do a long move and skipped the two worst crux holds. That was key so I finally could send „Karamba Karacho“. The beautiful line that I had in my mind since such a long time.

For me it's important to mention that I didn't use a hammer or any tools to „clean/create“ the line. I only cleaned it with a plastic brush. I didn't used any sika. The rock was very sharp, but it's a part of the game, I payed it with a bit of pain and blood. It was worth it: I did a real free climb.

It is very sad that I have to mention this, usually I should be the standard. But sadly lots of modern routes, even some of the hardest have artificial holds (drilled pockets, molded sika...). Please remember what free climbing is about: climbing without any artificial help."

 
 
How I Broke Through a 7-Year Plateau  Facebook
 

 
 
Organic strengthen their position as Crash Pad market leader  Facebook
 

Based on 1 300+ unique votes, Best Crash Pad? We can see that Organic continues to strengthen their #1 position. In brackets the 2016 result.

29 % Organic (22 % in 2016)
16 % Ocun (15)
11 % Black Diamond (13)
09 % Moon (10)
08 % Other (8)

04 % Petzl (5), Snap (5), Edelrid (5)
03 % MadRock (4), Asana (-), Mammut (3), Metolius (3)
02 % Pad (6)

 
 
8B FA (+) in Font by Caroline Sinno  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Sinno, who previously has done three 8B traverses in Font, has done the FA of L'Insoutenable légèreté de l'autre, which was 8B before break in 2009. Then Nalle Hukkataival repeated it in 2011. "First ascent after the key undercling broke. 8B+ now?".

Later one more important break before Caroline did a new FA after two months projecting it, including finding beta and giving it some 20 good tries. (c) Max Loison - (Check out the power in that three finger open crimp in a roof standing on very small foot holds!)

"I cannot really tell how much harder it is because I didn’t try it back then but I guess it’s a lot harder and trickier because instead of changing hand on the lip of the arete you have to aim at a crack and change hands. It is weird as you cannot hold with all of your fingers because there is not enough space."

It should be noted that Charles Albert has opened a more straight finish giving it 8B+, finishing in a harder mantle but less moves.

"I can’t say my version is now 8B+ but it’s a solid 8B. I think it is harder than New Base Line, the only 8B+ I have experience off but Font standards are different."

 
 
Best Climbing Rope - 2019  Facebook
 


 
 
Cameroni's dream 8C+ FAs  (3) Facebook
 

Giuliano Cameroni did the FA of REM and Poision the Well in February. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3. Now he is in Colorado for seven weeks, then Brazil and Rocklands. "I wanna climb as much as possible and take advantage of the chance I have to travel around the world. I will do my best to climb all the hard problems that I will try. Sykd!

 
 
Logarithm 8A+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Fight or Flight 9b by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who just the last year has done four 9a+', has done his first 9b Fight or Flight in Oliana. In the 8a ranking game, the Pole has been runner up after Adam Ondra for more than a year. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz

"It means a lot. 9b was a dream and Fight or Flight was a real challenge. I’ve never climbed such an intense route, usually my hardest climbs were long and endurance - styled. I had to adapt to a faster style of climbing and take more risks than ever, but it was a great game.

It took me 22 days in total, out of which 15 in 2018. Still have two more weeks in here so I hope to use them well and choose some projects for the upcoming trips."

 
 
Manuel Cornu and Janja Garnbret win in China  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, the Boulder WCH in 2018, got her fifth straight Boulder WC victory in Chongqing by winning all three rounds. Among the male, Manuel Cornu, #3 in the WCH in 2016, got his first WC win but it was a very close call as he won over Tomoa Narasaki with just one attempt to the zone. Further more, Tomoa made a false start on boulder #3. Add to that, Manuel was the last guy to qualify to the semifinal Top-20 by one attempt to the top. Adam Ondra still leads the WC even if he could not compete in China due to being sick.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 44 - Manuel Cornu FRA 34
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 44 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 34
3. Jessica Pilz AUT 34 - Anze Peharc SLO 34
Complete results

 
 
Why it's almost impossible to climb 15 m in 5 sec  Facebook
 

 
 
Bouldering Euro Cup Youth in Portugal  Facebook
 

France dominated in the first European Bouldering Youth Cup in 2019 which took place in Souvre in Portugal. In total they got three golds and nine medals. The most superior winner was Oriane Bertone who did all all eight problems in the qualification on her first try. Germany got two golds and Austria one. Interesting is that these three countries won 16 out of the 18 medals.

04: Oriane Bertone FRA - Perry Bloem GER
02: Lucy Douady FRA - Lasse von Freier GER
00: Mattea Pötzi AUT - Pierre Le Cerf FRA
Complete results

 
 
Belay without slack  Facebook
 

 
 
Drift 8C by Martin Stráník  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník, #2 in the WCH in 2007, has done his seventh 8C, Drift in Moravský kras. Kateřina Stráník

"So, that went quite fast, 2 days. Great addition by Adam, maybe just 8B+, but i spent quite a lot of time on this type of rock what makes moves easier."

 
 
9a FA by Diego Fourbet (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDiego Fourbet has done the FA of a 9a extension to La Proue Debridee 8c+ in Roche de Rame which he did last year. Diego started climbing being three years old and since age six, he has been training with a club. More info on his Insta. The 16 year old is the son of the famous French climbing couple, Nathalie (ex-Richer) and Olivier Fourbet.

"Antony Lamiche bolted the project six years ago. I spend six session on the route but the first part of the route is the same that a route I did last year. I have always traveled in Europe with my parents where I climb and boulder in different areas. Since I am 14 I study in a special class to climb more (CIE DE BRIANCONS).

 
 
Breakthroughs and tough starts 2019  Facebook
 

Last year, Anze Peharc was #16 as his best result out of six World Cups. In the last event, the WCH in Innsbruck he was #55. This year he has been 15 - 4 - 3 and overall he is #4 in the World Cup. The big breakthrough last year was made by Gregor Vezonik and interestingly, both are from Slovenia.

Among the female, we have not seen any such sensational results overall but Lucka Rakovec's 16 - 4 - 12, sticks out. She is just 17 and also from Slovenia.

The one struggling the most is Jakob Schubert. He is one of the best Lead competition climbers in the history and he was #3 in the last Bouldering comp in 2018. His average results in the first three Boulder WCs in 2019 are 31 after having been; 47 - 27 - 18.

Also Sean McColl, who has won 13 medals in Bouldering WC's including one silver last year, has had a relatively bad start, 24 - 33 - 14.

 
 
Almost perfect qually and semi match for the female  (2) Facebook
 

It was an almost perfect match in between the qualification and the semi for the female. Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic, who won their qualification groups, were #1 and #2 also in the semi, being the only ones topping all four problems. They were followed by Akiyo Noguchi and Jessica Pilz who were #3 and #5 in the qualifications. The last two spots into the final took Petra Klingler and Futaba Ito, who were #3 and #9 in the qualification.

Interesting is that nine female did not do any boulder in the semifinal so it seems there is a rather big gap in between the Top-20 best female boulderers in the world. Complete results

 
 
Many up-side-down results in the male semi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnze Peharc won the semifinal ahead of Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii, the only ones to make two boulders. Half of the field did not do one including Jakob Schubert #18 and Jongwon Chon #15 who were the Top-2 in their qualification group. Tomoa and Kokoro were also Top-3 in their respectively group as Aleksy Rubtsov who was #6 in the semi.

Interesting is that Manuel Cornu and Sasha Lehman were #4 and #5 in the semi coming from being ranked #19 and #15 in the qualification. Anze Peharc was #11 in the semi so there were several up-side-down results from the qualifications, where 16 topped all five boulders. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Chongqing finals  Facebook
 

 
 
Chongqing semifinal  Facebook
 

 
 
Super Finale 9a by Seb Bouin  Facebook
 

Seb Bouin has done another 9a, Super Finale in Rawyl in just four tries. It total, he has now done some 35 routes 9a to 9b.

"It was the most extreme conditions of the year. First day we only climbed one route, it was cold, super windy, and waterfall from the crag was falling on the belayer... Second day we were stronger in the head, and it worked"

 
 
Garnbret and Kadic from Slovenia win qually  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSlovenia did dominate the female qualification in Chongqing where Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic won their respectively group. The two million country also had Lucka Rakovec as #3 and Vita Lukan as #11. Interesting is that the Speed specialists Anna Tsyganova and Anouck Jaubert set personal best being #31 and #39. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Jain Kim #7.

 
 
Kruder is out in Chongqing  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra did cancel his trip due to being sick and Jernej Kruder, who won in Moscow, was #34 in Chongqing. For some reason the Slovenian failed to even get a zone on the first boulder which some 60 % topped in his group. Later Kruder did the remaining four boulders in just seven tries. (c) Eddie Fowke

Winners of the two groups were Tomoa Narasaki and Jakob Schubert needeing only six respective seven tries for the five boulders. In total, six from Japan into the Top-20 semifinal and once again all ten male from Japan among Top-31. Complete results

 
 
New female Speed World record - 7.101  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYiLing Song has set a new World Record by 7.101 seconds in the Quarterfinal run, dispatching the old mark of 7.32 held by both Iuliia Kaplina and Anouck Jaubert. Song continued winning as she also did in the first event. (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the male, Alifan Muhammed won his first event. His fastest time was 5.91 which actually was slower then the all the Top-5 best times. Two weeks ago Akifan was #24 and his best in 2018 was #6. Video of the finals. Complete results

 
 
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt’s Dolorock time! From May 24 to 26 the seventh edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place all around the Three Peaks. For three days, there will be climbing, celebrations and discussions at the cross-language and cross-border event. Over time, Dolorock has become one of the largest sports climbing events in Europe. Join and be part of it!

Program:
Friday, 24/5 at 9pm: drive-in cinema at the Dobbiaco indoor climbing centre.

Saturday, 25/5 from 10am to 5pm: Dolorock Red Point Fight at the climbing crags in Val di Landro. 7:30pm: award ceremony with many non-cash prizes. Afterwards party, dance (Pink Armada), food and drinks. Free camping.

Sunday, 26/5: climbers’ brunch and Yoga for climbers.

 
 
6.62 by Kokoro Fujii and 9.46 by Janja Garnbret  (13) Facebook
 

During the Speed qualification in Chongqing, we can see that both the Specialists and the Boulderers, set new standards. Kokoro Fujii did 6.62 which is the second fastest ever, after Mickael Mawem at 6.34, by a none-Speed specialist. Manuel Cornu was runner up at 6.68 and Jan Hojer third at 6.76 among the big names. Another eight did were below 7.2 seconds, so we are talking a big general improvement.

Among the female, Janja Garnbret set a new personal best with 9.46 being #3 among the none-Speed specialist after Elena Krasovskaya at 8.96 and Sol Sa at 9.41. Kyra Kondie was fourth at 9.56 followed by 16 year old Oceania Mackenzie at 9.64. Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler and Julia Chanourdie did also go below 10 seconds. Complete results

 
 
No bolt problem in Leonidio when Kyle died  Facebook
 

Rock & Ice has made a nice portrait of Kyle Roseborrough who died in Leonidio ten days ago "when an anchor failed as he lowered."

It should be mentioned that it is not clear what happened as no problem with the anchor bolts have been reported. Kyle (45) was a very experienced 8b climber.

 
 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
8a+ #111 by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 16th 8a+ of the last year, Mr Power in Verdon. In total, the 50-year-old has done 125 routes of this difficulty, including 11 routes graded 8b. When it comes to 8a's, the French lady has done 421 of them and she is still progressing doing more every year!

 
 
First 8c+ by Julia Chanourdie (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJulia Chanourdie, #11 in the last year's Lead World Cup, reports on Facebook, "Last saturday I toped my first 8c+ "L'Avaro" in Tetto di Sarre in Italy. It's a first female ascent. Video coming soon!"

Tetto di Sarre is probably one of the most chipped crags in the world and in fact it is located in a quarry.

 
 
Adam Ondra does 9a #120, Under vibes  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done Under vibes in Arco. During the same weekend, the 23-year-old onsighted also five 8a+ to 8b+ routes. In total, he has done 120 routes 9a and harder and onsighted 333 routes 8a+ and harder. The runner-up in these statistics, Ramon Julian Puigblanque has done 49 routes 9a and harder and onsighted 159 routes 8a+ and harder.

 
 
8B FA by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Carefully by Hand 8A+ and the FA of The Dark Daughter 8B in RMNP, which might be the hardest female FA in the world!

- Trav into child of God, started matched sitting down right in the lowest part of the seam,, first stand up move is hard.. I'm sure tall people will blow off the first move but I couldn't reach the crimp while sitting.. It's much harder than carefully by hand in my opinion,, fun trav.

 
 
Goldrake 9a+ by Reffo Silvio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReffo Silvio has done his second 9a+, Goldrake in Cornalba, after eight days of projecting. (c) Enrico Veronese

- I started to try the route togheter with Stefano Ghisolfi, since the first attempts I had a good feeling. The route begins immediately with very intense climbing, after a partial rest there's a very hard and technical boulder where I fell many times. Finally yesterday I managed to climb the route and solve this jewel of Cornalba's crag.

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
9a/+ FA by Piotr Schab (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done the FA of Stal Mielec 9a/+ in Dolina Kluczwody. The Polish teenager is #7 in the 8a ranking game. Video of the ascent.

- It used to be an 8c+ but after big changes in the Cave (removing artificial holds - 2012) it became a real challenge and was named the hardest route in whole Polish Jura.

 
 
Practice of the Wild gets 8B+ by Gabri Moroni  (16) Facebook
 

Gabri Moroni reports on Instagram that he has done Chris Sharma's Practice of the Wild 8C in Magic Wood, to which he gives a personal 8B+ grade, commenting.

"Took me 2 days. 1 quick session a week ago and another full day of work today. And I basically did it twice for a little dab on the try before the send. I know I am in my best form ever but I didn't feel this thing to be 8C..."

It should be mentioned that six out of seven repeaters have all marked it soft and many have it as a personal best. Furthermore, Gabri was the first who gave a personal grade to Mind Control, upon which most agree now.

 
 
Loic Zehani (14) does Bronx 8c+  (1) Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who did one 9a FA about six months ago, has done his second 8c+, Bronx in Orgon. The 14-year-old needed 20 tries to do the classical chipped route, which was the first 8c+ in France.

 
 
8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas after 15 months of Mononucleosis  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Johnsen Hafsaas, who started training in February after 15 months of fighting with Mononucleosis, (a virus that causes extreme fatigue), has lately made great progress in Bouldering and also done her first 8A+, Steinbucken in Dirdal.

- It was incredibly cool to send this boulder. I’m still exploring what bouldering is, and I think this was my kind of boulder - steep and powerful on small holds. I haven’t bouldered much outside and I recently did my first 8A. After my send of Lynx 8A I was psyched to figure out what my maximum level really is, it felt so easy when I sent it that I couldn’t believe this was my limit.

After 15 months with mononucleosis it’s hard to describe how good it feels to explore my limits and do what I love. After nine hours in the car my body was not interested in climbing, but I still managed to figure out and do all the moves the first day. When I returned the next day everything felt easier and I sent it without much trouble. I expected to fall at least once at the top due to my lack of maximum endurance, but I didn’t. Once I passed the last hard move I sent it, and it feels amazing to have a body that’s working again and that my training is paying off. Still psyched to explore my limits and in three week I’ll be in Rocklands!

 
 
9a by Alexander Rohr  (1) Facebook
 

Alexander Rohr, who did a personal best of 8b+ 18 months ago, has done his second 9a, Ultime Souffrance in St Loup.

- What a day!!! Really not expected send..... I messed it up four times in the very last move of the hard part. Good mindset and bäääm!!! This one is much harder than Non a la bombe.... The 8a/8a+ boulder in the start shreds your forearms and bodytension. With it, the easier mid-part feels already harder. Linking the last boulderproblem felt quite impossible while the first tries. But now i was lucky although the conditions were not this good....2nd ascent... Super happy!!

 
 
Two 8b's by Chuck Odette (60)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChuck Odette, who started climbing some 40 years ago, has done two 8b's in Hurricane; Inner Worlds and Big Man On Campus (in the picture). The great and inspiring story is that Chuck, who has put up 50+ routes 8a and harder, did his first 8b+ being 44 years old and now he is 60.

 
 
Sixth 8A for Oriane Bertone (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has done a left variant of Ganesh Assis 8A in Ravine Saint on Reunion Island. Actually, it was a reclimb as she first did it a month ago but then some guys said she dabbed the crash pad. Video of the ascent.

 
 
8a+ onsight by Martina Cufar (39) and she goes for her second 8c  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartina Cufar become the World Lead Champion in 2001 and since than, Slovenia has been one of the leading nations in climbing. In 2006, she onsighted her first 8b and last week, the 39-year-old onsighted her first ever 8a+, Allo ctave, ici Bemol in Verdon. She got the tip from Bruno Clement - Graou, who has established a new sector there, Baume aux Couillones.

- Graou told me one evening that he equipped one line in the bottom of which should be written " For Martina", because there are many small crimpers and it's technical. smile emoticon So I went in one day and did it on sight. He was right , it was for me.

Otherwise I try to keep my shape with climbing when I can but for sure it's less than before I had my two boys, Tommy and Paco. It's quite a job to entertain them! In the last time I climb often in Bionnassay (half an hour drive and half an hour walk up). It's the place I like, but the problem is that I did all the routes until 8b...So I got myself on the 8c now, a route with a crux with a long move, boys do a jump, that I was not able to do for years (Well I went to check once a year) ,but in december I found the solution. Well I do the move once or twice in three attempts, so I don't really know if I am close ot not. but I enjoy climbign on it. I hope I have some luck and do it this year,:-)

I try to climb 3 - 4 times a week, 1,5h or 3 in the rock. I do kundalini yoga every morning when everybody sleeps, from 6 30 to 7 30 - 8.

 
 
8c again by Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson has reclimbed Welcome to Tijuana 8c in Rodellar, which she already did last year. However, some locals did say that she had used some eliminated holds one meter to the left of the original line, disclaiming the ascent. Kind of a strange thing for a 10-year-old setting a new world standard, getting the info that it was prohibited to use some small shallow pockets where no other can get their fingers into. Anyhow, now Angie has done the straight up elimination 8c.

Angie is from Australia and she is on a three-month-long road trip to Europe being home-schooled by her non-climbing parents. In March she did an 8c in Margalef.

 
 
Estado Critico 9a by Sasha Gerzha  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Gerzha has done his second 9a, Estado Critico in Siurana. The picture is from La Rambla 9a+, which will be his next project.

- I had a couple of tries in January but just for check the moves and went back to St Petersburg for training. Then I came again in March and was close to send after one week or 10 days but get a cut finger and it took around one another week to recover. I didn't climb for this period and than I start again with no power after the rest! And the weather started to be hot! So it was all the time something wrong

 
 
9a by Mikel Linazisoro (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast year we at the Spanish 8a.nu site had a long chat with Mikel Linacisoro in this vídeo interview just before he became the European Youth Champion. There he expressed that he wanted to send his first 9a before his 15th birthday. However, being focused on the comps at that moment he had to wait to have that goal completed until last Sunday when he was finally able to clip the chains of Begi Puntuan, 9a in Etxauri.

He started trying it at the beginning of last December, projected it for two weekends before Christmas and he almost sent it during those holidays. Then, he just needed two more weekend trips to the crag to bag it. This way he's set a Spanish record again, being the youngest (he's 15 now) to send an 8c and an 8c+ back in those days and a 9a now.

When we interviewed him for the first time three years ago he had redpointed an 8b+ and onsighted an 8a+. That same year and just before turning 13 he fired-off his first 8c with 'White Zombie' in Baltzola and one year after he reached the 8c+ grade with 'Koldoren Mundua' in Araotz.

**Now you can read the interview we had with the Basque yesterday, where he tells us more about his new step up.

 
 
9a by Giorgio Bendazzoli (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiorgio Bendazzoli, who won one Euro Youth Lead Cup last year and was the European Champion in 2014, has done his first 9a, L'attimo in Covolo.

- L'attimo is the connection of the hard part of two 8c' which I did last years. I started trying it last year but it was a bit over my level...the hotter conditions after winter came in march but the climate was cloudy and humid, not so good for the crimps! This month I also got a contraction in my back that didn't let me to do my best. Now that both physical and weather conditions are perfect it came out the occasion to do this very beautiful line.

 
 
9a by Alexander Feichter again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Feichter has done the FA of The Walking Dead 9a in Pursteinwand, which is mainly a slab Climb with many Bouldery passages. In practice it is a 35-metre-long link-up of an 8c with an 8A+/B boulder crux and Feichter's third 9a.

"The line is a mental killer, because there are so many Boulder parts on the slab where you can really fall on every move. Therefore you have to be very calm during the Ascent. After the ascent I was stunned happy that this project became reality. Slab climbing is a crazy thing. What I liked was the natural Gneis-Granit stone in this line.

Normally I train exclusively force on my pull up board. Additionally, I'm practicing sometimes some indoor training in climbing halls but three-quarters of the training I'm doing at home with my own utilities."

 
 
9a FA by Nicolas Pelorson (18) again  Facebook
 

Nicolas Pelorson has done his third 9a FA, Ametsa in L'Abattoir, which is a new crag located just outside Grenoble developed mainly by Florent Plaze and J Aromatario. Topo.

Last year, the 18-year-old Frenchman got the silver in the Youth World Championship and in 2013, he won one Euro Boulder Cup.

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
8c+ FFA by Anak Verhoeven  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven, #4 in the Lead World Cup 2015, has done the FFA of Bronx 8c+ in Orgon from 1994 and she did it on her third try. In the video, there is also her 8c+ FA of Ma belle ma muse in Romeyers included, which took her just four sessions. (c) Sébastien Richard

- When the 2015 season was over I first took some weeks of rest. Then I progressively started training again, but I have done no specific training for the routes I have climbed in France. My trainings have been quite similar as the years before with mainly both resistance and power training. I probably did a little more finger training and I also checked out Redcord training in order to prevent injuries. What was different though, is that in the beginning of the trip I consciously decided not to let a certain route dominate me. I was aware of the way in which a project can take control over a climber during the time he is attempting and I didn't want to let that happen. Because of that, the project felt more like a challenge instead of a constant pressure.

My plan for the next months is to continue training indoors for next season and my goal is to win international adult competitions.

More info on her website - Anak Verhoeven Climbing for Jesus

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Piotr Schab (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana, which has been given three stars in our database by all eight guys who have done it. "A perfect route - gonna miss it for sure ! Amazing challenge, life is beautiful!!"

The Pole did his first 9a, Era Vella, when he was 15 years old and has had a steady progress since. Papichulo, with a dozen of ascents, is probably one of the most repeated 9a+'s in the world. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz.

 
 
Honnold & Camargo repeat an 8c MP in China  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo and Alex Honnold have done the first repeat of Dani Andrada's amazing eight pitches in Getu Valley; 8a+, 8b, 7c+, 7a, 8b+, 8c, 7c+, 8a+. (c) Jimmy Chin

- We worked on it for five days, cleaning the route cause it was really dirty and figuring out the moves and just working on the pitches. Later we did it on our first respectively serious push from the ground. Best thing I've ever climbed in my life! A real gem from Dani Andrada! Incredible effort and vision bolting this thing!

 
 
El Intento 9a by Desgranges (1 hour) and Supper  Facebook
 

The French team has been on a training camp in Cuenca and they seem to be in a great shape as both Gauthier Supper, #2 in WC 2015, and Romain Desgranges, #6, did El Intento 9a. In fact, Desgranges did the 30-metre-long route in just three attempts, which took him an hour.

So does that mean that you could do a 9a+ in some tries and a 9b after some projecting?
Probably!

 
 
La Reina Mora 9a (8c) by Stéphane Hanssens  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAfter one month of projecting Stéphane Hanssens has done Ramon Julian Puigblanue's La Reina Mora, which seems to have been upgraded from 8c to 9a. The Belgian focused on comps as a youngster, then he did some expeditions and now he is back with a focus on sport climbing and World Cup comps. His best results in 2015 were #13 in the Euro Bouldering Championship and #9 in the Imst Lead WC. (c) Guillaume Lion

"This is by far, the path which asked me the most efforts. Really happy and what amazing line. Thank you to all the people who helped me in this project."

 
 
First 8c by Gudmund Grønhaug (43)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGudmund Grønhaug has done the FA of Blodspor 8c in Ekne, which he bolted eleven years ago. Ekne is located two hours south of Flatanger and there are some 130 routes at the spot (topo), half of which were bolted or had FAs by the Norweigian.

Five years ago, Adam Ondra tried the vertical route and said it might be an 8c and since then the 43-year-old has gone all in. Adam had been invited to Flatanger by Gudmund, who was one of the pioneers of the giant cave.

"Due to rheumatic chronic pain in the knees, hips shoulders, and worst of all, the low back, I need to train something everyday. 3 years ago a mix of events gave me inspiration to train harder and more structured. My book (climbing injuries) was almost finished, we were due to leave the area and move south and I had a lot of pain. I found the inspiration for everyday structured training in this project and the prospect of being able to get out of bed and make breakfast for me and the kids without having to sit down and have a break at least once due to pain.

The last two winters I found a method of combining training to reduce pain with performance enhancing training without spending to much time training.
“Luckilly” my pain gives me no time to rest and stop training so I train something almost every day. Obviously this pays of! I now have less pain, fever extreme pain periodes and a new (possible) personal high point concerning climbing grades."

 
 
9a FA by Kevin Aglaé in St Leger  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKevin Aglaé reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of L'Enfumette 9a in St Leger. (c) Jan Novak

 
 
8c+ and 8c by Drew Ruana (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDrew Ruana, who started climbing when he was four and who has done many headlines throughout the years, including a 9a FA, has had an amazing day in Red River Gorge. "Super fun day 2 here at the red! I flashed Kaleidoscope (8a+), managed to send Southern Smoke (8c+) after two days of effort, and I surprised myself by sending Thanatopsis (8c) in three tries in a single day of effort!"
(c) Kyle O'Meara

What is the plan and ambition 2016 and what about training and comps?
There are a couple local routes I want to do in the 9a range, and I want to do Le cadre in Ceuse this summer. Maybe some local bouldering in the 8B range.

I train 3-4 days a week. Lots of boulder training and also lots of route/endurance training. My training fluctuates a lot. I just have a coach who also coaches a lot of other people. No Youth World Championship. I am just doing the American Youth circuit.

 
 
Iban Larrion sends 8B+/C and a 9a+  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAbout a month and a half ago Iban Larrion added a new boulder-route in a smaller grotto aside the Baltzola cave, Mikelon, for which he suggested 8B+/C (remember that in 2012 and at the same spot he also made the FA of 'Airian', suggesting 8C for it).

At that time we talked with him in this interview, where we also asked him about his long standing project with a rope in the same area, Iñi Ameriketan 9a+, which he was finally able to send about 2,5 weeks ago after trying it for 6 years. Pic© Estibaliz Díaz.

Iban is the fourth to clip the chains of what was born as a 100% natural route (so far just a crimp broke and was glued back on the same spot) bolted by Iñigo Basterra in 1995 which first ascent was claimed by Rikar Otegi in 2002 saying it was a 9a. One year later it was bagged by Patxi Usobiaga agreeing with such difficulty proposal. Second repetition didn't happen till 2014 with an Adam Ondra well used to revise a good number of routes downward but registering this one with a 9a+ in his scorecard with the following comment: "Harder than 'Il Domani', even though easier beta than Patxi and Rikar used has been found. 2 days, sent in humidity."

Iban confirmed us that Ondra used his method and coincide with him on his grading, even if "an intermediate in the crux section broke off, but this didn't mean that plus." We, in the Spanish 8a.nu site, have asked him some few more questions that you can read in this new interview.

 
 
An 8b+ and an 8c by Nika Potapova (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNika Potapova has done her second 8b+, Marioneta and the day after also her first 8c, Strelovod in Osp/Misja Pec. Last year, she set a female world record on the Zlagboard, hanging for 2.40 min. This is some 40 seconds more than the second best female and in fact she is #2 overall behind Ramonet's 2.45. Nika normally does seven training sessions a week including two rest days.

- I "put an eye" on Strelovod in my previous trip in November last year. There is a big hold on the second half of the route where you could relax but it was not so easy for me to reach it, small holds long reaches. I had to use my foot regular on the heel because of my height. It took 4 days, 14 tries for the realization. I am very happy and have new plans: a trip to Arco and competitions in Imst. I want that May become soon!

 
 
First 8c and 8c+ for Michaela Kiersch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has had an amazing weekend in Red River Gorge, where she started up with the ascent of her first 8c, Thanatopsis and later did Pure Imagination 8c+, which originally was a 9a. (c) Kevin McNally

"I am really excited. I had tried Pure Imagination a few times before this season, but never really dedicated myself to it for the send. Really happy to get it with my second weekend of work. I'm honestly a bit surprised that I had this much success so fast in the season, so now I can have a bit of fun and climb a whole bunch of new routes to look for a project! Maybe Lucifer, maybe 50 words for pump... Maybe the Golden Ticket!!! Then I am competing in the vail World Cup in June"

How have you been training lately?
Mainly climbing outside on the weekends and gym sessions in the week. I have been doing a bit of campusing and one arm dead hangs.

 
 
Goldrake 9a+ by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who did a 9b FA last year as well as being #9 in the Led World Cup has done Goldrake 9a+ in Cornalba. "Had some problem with the top slab, but did it in 4 days! Really nice route, sharp for the skin." © Enrico Veronese

So what is your plan, ambition for 2016 and how do you prepare for this?
I think I'm going to try some projects in Italy and then compete in lead world cups. My ambition is always the podium. But I'd like to be more regularly. My trainer Roberto Bagnoli trains me with a strict program, power, power endurance and endurance in the last months. But my passion for rock is too strong that I need to climb outside once a week at least.

 
 
First 9a for Hernan Garcia  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHernan Garcia, who started climbing in 2004 when he was 22 years old, has done his first 9a, Fuck the system in Santa Linya. (c) Henning Wang

"I started to try the route one year ago after I had sent Digital System but not seriously. It was in January 2016 that it got seriously and thanks to the advises from Diego Marsella that I could link all the moves. It was a nice experience when I saw a few strong climbers like Domen Skofic send the route very fast and I got extra motivation. Finally yesterday I was able to send it on my second go despite the hot conditions, Now the motivation is high to try some new project in the Santa Linya cave."

 
 
Second 9a+ by Mateusz Haładaj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haładaj continues to progress and goes to #8 in the 8a ranking game with his second 9a+ done during the last year, First Ley in Margalef.

"HELL YES! The best sequence I’ve tried on rock. Was dreaming about this awkward tufas since I saw Chris on it several years ago. First Ley goes left just before the last crux of FRFM 9b, now psyched to try the original finish in winter!"

 
 
First 9a by Fedir Samoilov (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFedir Samoilov who last year won one Euro Youth Cup in Lead and who in 2016, has done his first two 8c+', steps up one more grade by doing Martin Krpan 9a in Osp/Misja Pec.

"It was the third day of climbing and I did not have a lot of power. I barely were able to get through it and it was good warm weather. Many thanks to my trainer Artur Pechii. I still have a 9a project in Santa Linya and we are planning also to go to Arco in the near future. Picture from Ucrclimbing who says this is the first Ukrainian 9a.

 
 
8c+ by Barbara Zangerl  Facebook
 

Barbara Zangerl, one of the best multi-discipline female rock climbers, reports on Facebook that she has done her first 8c+, Harry's dirty brother in Voralberg after some 30 tries over two years.

"Today it was a good one. It took me some time to get this route done. After a biiiiiiiiig fight i clipped the chain of my hardest route, i have ever done. It is not a 1st April joke.) Jacopo (Larcher) did the first ascent of "Harry's dirty brother" exactly one year ago. The route is bolted by the one and only Jürgen Höfle."

 
 
Estado Critico 9a by Bouyoud and Pintar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMathieu Bouyoud has done Estado Critico 9a in Siurana and a few days later it was also done by Gašper Pintar who has written an interesting blog with nice reflections.

"Myself a few years ago, coming from a background of youth competitions and obsessive training, I was hung up about my performance and had a number of uncertainties and doubts. I would never believe I would one day climb something like this because I was too weak or it simply seemed so abstract. Slowly over the years I made away with the misconceptions about my climbing by stopping pushing for it and going with the natural flow of things, climbing a lot, becoming stronger and finding climbing more fun as more and more things became possible."

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Monique Forestier (43)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe proud husband Simon Carter comes with great news on Facebook.

"I'm happy! She's happy! Everybody's happy! Because Monique Forestier really pulled it out of the bag and did something I wasn't expecting today... She just sent her numero uno project with a really inspired send of Mind Control for her first 8c+, or Australian 34, in primo conditions at Oliana today!"

 
 
Vanitas 8C by Ryuichi Murai and Ichimiya Daisuke  Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai has done his second 8C in the last two weeks, Vanitas in Hourai."I felt this problem was right for myself because I could deal with many of parts with heel hook that I am good at. 6 moves until join the stand version was so difficult. When I got over the fear of mantle, I was so psyched!! Props to Dai did FA in 2014!" Video

The 167 cm tall Japanese was #19 in the only Boulder World Cup he has taken part in. "I started climbing at the age of ten. I was mainly focused on competition until enter the university, but later I began to climb the natural rock. Because I still have never been bouldering overseas, I want to try the hard problems there. I climb in the gym three times a week. Basically, I try the problems that is made by gym staff. I don't particularly training, but I do sometimes ''ABC chin-up''. ''ABC chin-up'' is a training that I was taught when I went to the training camp in Austria before."

Also Ichimiya Daisuke has done the 8C, which was the second one for the 162-cm-tall.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
8c+ by Brooke Raboutou (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou reports on Facebook that she has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Previously the 14-year-old did several headlines on 8a including one about an 8b+ that she did four years ago.

Brooke's parents are Didier, one of the leading climbers both on the rock and the competition scene some 20 years ago, and Robyn Erbesfield - the world's best competition climber between 1989 -1995 and a very successful trainer.

 
 
Second 8c by Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who is on a three-month long road trip in Europe being schooled, has done her second 8c, L'Espiadimonis in Margalef. Previuosly in March, the 11-year-old has done two 8b+'s. Interesting is that Angie is the only one climbing in her family and she is her own trainer. (c) João Giacchin

"Hard pocket climbing to a ok rest then explosive climbing through red point cruxs, then hold on to the chains. So over the moon to have sent such awesome climb."

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
8c+ flash by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeiko Wilhelm reports on Instagram that Jakob Schubert has flashed 3 Satellites 8c+ in Andalusia. He got the beta from Mario Lechner. Together with Adam Ondra Jakob has been the best overall climber in the world the last five years, including Bouldering and competitions.

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