6 March 2012

8c+ in Oliana also by Caroline Ciavaldini

James Pearson reports that his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini has, on her third redpoint attempt, done her first 8c+, Mind Control in Oliana. "Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success. My brand new 9.1mm Beal Joker was pulled out to help with the rope drag. We also worked out a nice method of climbing the first section with 2 ropes, clipping the first 5 or 6 QD’s on one line then dropping it at the rest to allow the other line to run freely through the remainder of the route. This is also the first time I have used a 100m rope!"(c) Francisco Taranto
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