28 March 2021

8b+ OS and Joe Blau 8C+ RP by Martina Demmel (19)

Martina Demmel continues her rampage in Oliana by onsighting her first 8b+, Los Humildes pa casa. The almost 50 m classic was put up by Dani Andrada in 2004 as an 8c. All 43 individuals who have star marked the route have given it five stars. "No words for how much this means to me! Feels so crazy good when everything luckily works out perfectly during that only ONE chance:) especially on such a tufa kingline with tons of kneebars! The pump almost threw me off on the final slab... Thx Blondi for cheering me up to fulfil a little dream:)"

Then one hour later, the 19-year-old redpointed another Oliana 50 meter stunner, Joe Blau, on her third go. It was bolted by Joe Kinder, and none out of the 29 recorded ascents have marked it as soft. "Seems like once the sending train is rolling, it's not that easy to stop again;) This was literally one of the most unexpected sends ever by still being pumped from the onsight an hour before but therefore I had the right commitment and flow in my movements! Mostly about getting through the resistance lower half but mentally it just starts there and isn't over till you survived the top slab! 3rd try in total but the first real attempt from the ground after sticking the jump! What a surreal day!!!"

Martina, who started climbing in 2017, first appeared on 8a one year ago with the headline Amazing progress via onsight and outdoor focus. "In spring 2018, I had enough of these dusty gyms and since then I'm only climbing on rock. I only climb on rock, I don't do any other training for power or endurance. But I do a lot of stretching every day which helps me pretty much especially because I'm quite small (1,57m)."

During the last year, she has recorded 858 ascents in total out of which 70% onsight. Last year she was the first female in the 8a history who was #1 in a ranking game. Today, she is totally superior in the Top-50 onsight ranking game. Noteworthy is that the only other climber showing such an onsight focus on 8a is Adam Ondra in an interview in 2004 being 11-years-old.
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