21 September 2012

8a will minimize reporting chipped ascents

8a has since for several years been fighting hard against chipping. It is of course impossible to draw a defined line what is chipping and what is cleaning especially on lime stone. In fact, one of the famous equippers in Gorges du Loup has here on the 8a forum said that he consider all his FA's manufactured. In the 8a data base it is possible to mark a route or a boulder, "Poorly/Mainly Chipped". In order to make a stronger statement which hopefully will reduce any further manufactured impact on mother earth, we will minimize reporting chipped ascents in the news. We do not say that it is wrong to climb chipped routes and if somebody do something extraordinary we will report. However, there will be no chipped 9a, or 8b+ by female, ascents in the news. We will also try to minimize reporting contrived variation and link-ups etc but that is another even more complicated story. Go for pure quality lines!
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