8a ethical policy on "world records"

It is just natural that the climbers push the ethics in search of personal best. Over the years we have seen both good and what some call a bad "development" of good practice. The media has a responsibility to give full details whenever the ethics can be questioned otherwise we will just end up of contrived quantitative records instead of remarkable quality lines! 10 quality devaluations. 1. 3-5 carabiners preclipped 2. Training/Downclimbing on onsight/flash 3. Increasing beta on onsights 4. Rappel before flash 5. Pre-placed on trad ascents 6. Adding sit-starts to routes 7. Chipping routes 8. Traverses 9. Eliminates 0. Variations/link-ups