13 December 2013

7c+ by Kylie Cullen (8)

Rudy Ruana gives us the great story that Kylie Cullen (8) has done Fuel Injected 7c+ in Frustration Creek. Her father Brian was kind to share the story. They actually built a home wall within a few weeks of her birth so she and her younger brother have been around it their whole lives. For less than a year Kylie has been climbing in a team only a couple days a week for two hours. This was the first time she projected a route and her parents thought it could be a great lesson. Otherwise she is playing the piano and doing dance classes. She is not competitive and being scared was possible the biggest challenge so they actually had to practice some lead falls in the gym after she had refused to pass the crux bolt and here is their nice story of the ascent. "Daddy am I still on toprope", (is the bolt still above my waist.)? I tried not to sound like I was lying when I said, "yes" and she pressed on. Then just after she clipped the last bolt and began the first of three waist level lockoff/deadpoints in a row, her feet slipped and cut surprisingly, Craig and I shouted more encouragement and suddenly two big moves later, it was seemingly over as Kylie starts shouting, "I did it Daddy." Of course now she is three meters above her last bolt with two moves to go before she can clip, and my father instincts are kicking in and screaming "clip the anchors, clip the anchors. Now Kylie has said to me she wants to be the first in the family doing an 8b+"
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