30 October 2018

Said Belhaj does Action Directe 9a

Said Belhaj has done the 23rd repeat of Action Directe in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Gullich opened in 1991. Today it is considered the world’s first 9a. Ray Demski ”First time I went to the Frankenjura was in -96 but AD was not even a fantasy to climb at the time. Then in -15 I went up to check the moves for the 1st time. Everything seemed possible exept the jump in the start. This spring I tried for 1 week and managed all the moves. On this trip, with 1 month of preparation I was back. I felt weaker than in the spring and the progress went backwards in the end during a 3 week period. I was also very warm for the season which didnt make it easier for me as some moves were in my limit. After a 5 day break from AD, climbing in Margalef, I came back. The temps had dropped and I felt well rested. I sent the same day on my 2nd go. To be honest I never thought I would do it this season but hoped that resting and better conditions would make miracles -and so they did. The route and its history was the only true reason I wanted to do it as its somehow been a part of my life since I started climbing.”
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